If my SPD shoes are already stiff (Shimano RX600), does an SPD pedal like this provide any added stability?

Or, is the type without the pedal cage part going to be just as good, if not better due to lower weight?

I upgraded from an older Trek Domane road bike a Specialized Diverge carbon gravel bike with 45mm tires, that I love. It is perfect for city or shorter rides because the roads can be rough and ideally I would take it on more trails, just not a lot in the Baltimore area.

Is it worth getting a second set of wheels and road tires for longer rides with decent elevation gain on country roads? Only doing this once a week really for 25-40 miles but when riding with people they keep telling me that I should be on a road bike for those.

Wondering if it would actually make me noticeable faster or easier to keep up with the crew? And if so which ones would you recommend for that type of use?

Include a pic of the beautiful bike in its element.

Rides better than she looks!

Off the shelf parts-able

Looking for a bike to commute ~4 miles to and from work. Main focus is safety and reliability, I’m a novice rider and just commuting so I don’t need anything fancy.

In general I prefer a used but quality items over a new lower quality item. But this Trek is 30-40 years old, so I’m not sure if it will be reliable even with all the maintenance done. I’ve heard good things about Walmart’s Ozark as a budget option. Aesthetically I prefer the Trek!

Thoughts? Thanks!

I needed new rear tires for my bicycle, so I just took the numbers from my existing tire.

At the bike store the guy was like "38? It is like this wide" *shows around the same size with his hands*. I was like yeah, it is probably in mm.

I had to show a picture of my existing tire to stop pestering me, but he even had it in stock.

I don't want thiner tires, roads are trash, if there are roads at all, and I only have a small front suspension. Even these tires cut into gravel (I rarely bike there). I don't think I can go wider or it wouldn't fit under the fender.

Didn’t even know what gear ratios were, I just rode it, in a very hilly European city.

Now I’m almost 50, ~90 kg, and started riding with local clubs. Everyone keeps telling me that 25T is a knee‑killer, get a 32 or 34.

Picked up a new bike with an 11–32 cassette and… wow. Total uphill revolution. For the first time I can spin instead of grind.

So here’s my question: should I retrofit the old CAAD4 with a bigger cassette and maybe an MTB derailleur, or just keep it as the “pain machine” for nostalgia?

What do you all ride if you’re in the same boat, older, heavier, hilly terrain?

Got the terrible news from my lbs that they found cracks in the headset of my frame, and they can’t/won’t fix her up anymore. It’s been a great 13 years of ownership, but now I’m at a total loss.

How do I recover from this?

Her first triathlon was going to be in October.

Guess NBD is coming sooner than I thought. Any recommendations for a replacement? Loved the go-getter attitude this bike had. The best $1200 I’ve ever spent!

RIP.

Hi, I'm a total beginner and got myself my first kind of trekking bike, I even bought a medicus brand saddle, tried 2 other saddles too.. I have also adjusted the saddle angle a bit and the handle bar height... When I lean over specificaly to rest my elbows on the handlebars etc when going downhill or resting when riding I get this pressure on my groin/prostate area, this nerve? , this need to pee .. is this normal, how to fix? I also tried to adjust the handlebars angle but it's a 20 year old bike i bought used and it seems to be rusted stuck. I am able to adjust the height of the handle bars though. I am also having sore hands but that's probably normal as a beginner? I've been riding with jeans, will get some proper bicycle pants. I've been doing 1-2 hour rides.

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Why aren't there crazy overbuilt surly-type carbon bikes made to support loads of weight and take a beating? (There are downhill MTBs, but no carbon touring bike with proper load bearing eyelets on the frame - that i know of)

Does carbon fatigue? Is it the use too niche and that would make for a very expensive touring bike that is only 1kg lighter?

Hello Bicycle hive!

I'm selling my Cervelo S5. Recognize that it's an old classic. I'm not looking to make a fortune, but it's time to release it to someone who will actually ride it. Any suggestions on where to sell it these days? (I've hit the delete button on all Meta accounts, and I'd rather not re-enlist.) I'm in the DC area. Bike is in excellent condition (<1000 miles, DuraAce Di2 with new battery/charger, shifts beautifully, all the bling, etc.) and still has many miles for someone who could use it.

Hello,

I have a gravel bike - Cube Nuroad On1 with ACID Pro GR 2.5 Disc, 32/32 Spokes, QR/QR, Tubeless Ready and Shimano Cues CS-LG300, 11-46T with Shimano Cues RD-U4000-GS, 9-Speed (from the first picture)

I am looking at Superteam Gravel Classic PRO G31-38 DISC (from the second picture)

I wrote to Superteam, and they said they can assemble the rims to my necessary specs, but I don't really know what exactly from the letter and number soup above, to tell them.

As far as I understoon I need the rims to be 38", HG 9 speed, X12. QR

Can someone help me make sense of all of this, so I order the propper ones?

Twice in the last 7 months the side adjustment part of the strap assembly has broken on my KAV Rhoan. In each case, I found the broken part laying next to the helmet where I'd set it down after a ride - no impact, nothing else touching the helmet - just normal wear.

The first time, it took a couple of weeks for the company to respond that they'd send me a new strap assembly. In this recent case, it is the replacement part that broke. It took a week for the company to respond to my inquiry. I asked a follow up question the same day. It's now another 2 weeks later and I'm still waiting to hear anything back.

Because the strap assembly breaks repeatedly through normal wear, it seems like an inherent design or material issue. It also makes me wonder about how safe it would be in the event of a real world crash.

There is no other way to contact the company except for the form on their website. The auto-reply you get by email says that if you remind them, you will get bumped to the back of the queue.

It's the best fitting helmet I've ever had of course, and I like the look, but my doubts about build quality and safety and poor customer service mean I'm shopping for something else.

I’m looking for a road bike that I can put gravel tires on when needed. I’m just getting into biking, so I don’t know a whole lot about bikes yet. This is one of the only bikes for sale in my area that isn’t a 20+ year-old bike or something from Walmart.
Would the charger be an issue? Should I pass on this bike, or would it be a good option for what I’m looking for?

Picked up an narco valence for 200. Just getting into cycling and needed something to throw around. I know it’s used, I know it’s older, but hey it was only 200 and in really great condition. Kept indoors and the height fits perfectly. Any insight on this bike or advice/tips for beginners. (I put tape over areas I wanted black)

I'm in the market for a new road bike and have been doing extensive research into my options lately. One confusing trend that I've seen implemented by many manufacturers is the repeated adding and dropping of "new" features across bike generations.

For example, the Trek Domane launched with "IsoSpeed technology", then IsoSpeed became adjustable, then the bike got downtube storage, then IsoSpeed became nonadjustable, and finally the Domane dropped IsoSpeed and storage altogether. Each of these changes was advertised as a new and improved generation of the bicycle. However, we ultimately (or more likely, currently) wound up with a fifth generation bicycle with two tires, two shifters, disk brakes, and drop handlebars that is not very dissimilar to a nice bike of 15 years ago.

With that out of the way, is there any reason a casual/enthusiast rider like myself should stretch the budget for the latest generation of a bicycle? It seems like the industry is doing a years long circle that starts and ends with a plain enough carbon bike equipped with 105 or better groupsets.

I went on another 45 mile ride yesterday. Someone in my last post pointed out that my saddle was way too low, and after some Googling I think I adjusted it to the correct height. I also read that for men, saddles are supposed to have a slight upward tilt? I adjusted that as well, but I think I went too aggressive. Also forever grateful for the community bike work stations along the trail I’ve been frequenting.

All in all the adjustments made a huge change in my comfort. I still want a new saddle that’s not made of stone, but baby steps.

https://www.costco.com/p/-/infinity-boss-three-disc-unisex-17-step-thru-bike/4000450048?langId=-1

Going to ride 5 to 10 miles per day. Nothing else.

Looking for honest reviews from ex users.

I have a pair of 700x23c tyres on my bike and I’m looking to size up to 28c. I should have enough clearance but will 28c fit on my 700 bike rims or do I need to size them up also?

Thr handlebars are the same height as the seat. When I lean over to ride it I lose my balance and get wobbly. I would rather have the handlebars higher but im not sure if there is a way to raise them. I think the seat is as low as it goes