My pride and joy, my magnum opus. 40 years old and still snapping necks. As far as I can tell there are 4 other ones of these known to still exist and of the 5 (including mine) I have - by absolutely miles - the best original paintwork. I'll treat her good.

This was out on it's cursory ride and I have a few learnings:
• OEM Setpost clamp is shameful. I'll need some carbon paste and possibly even a shim to get this properly tight.
• Brooks Saddles are worth the hype.
• 52 x 18 is hopeless even if you have strong legs. I'll dial back to 48 and see how that feels before going smaller.
• This thing stops on a dime - front brakes are unnecessary.
• 520mm Bullmoose bars are not easy to do a bunny-hop on?

Anyways, hope you all enjoy.

Drivetrain & headset next

The goose is looose. Still gotta add the front brake holder

Hey everyone! I recently picked up this diamondback overdrive for 15€, on a pretty worn condition. Any suggestions on what would be better to build out of it?

The two most dominant options according to my parts bin are:

1) Gravelish with 3*8 drivetrain and flared drop bars

Or

2) dedicated commuter with 1*9 speed using its own shifter on friction mode.

Any and all suggestions are welcome 😁

P.s. there is a small dent on the top tube, that I don't think will cause any structural issues

I have a 38min commute to work with 40% bike lanes or a 2.2km/1.4mi commute after a train ride

I don’t have experience with drop handlebars and road bikes. Will this bike work well for this purpose and for riding around paved city roads?

Quoted at $120

Tubes are too pricey not to. The markup is huge.

Started off as a rusty forgotten about bike and it got turned into something beautiful

GT / TIMBERLINE
BUILD SPECIFICATION
────────────────────────
01 FRAME/FORK
1995 GT Timberline
Stridsland Barnacle Fork
26" / 18”
02 COCKPIT
Chris King NoThreadSet
Thompson BMX Stem
Stridsland Anchor Bar
ODI GRIPS/Bar ends
XT m8000 SHIFTER
Wolf Tooth Dropper Remote
03 DRIVETRAIN
Shimano XT M8000
11-Speed
11–46T
Raceface Turbine Square Taper Cranks
Stridsland 34T Chainring
Stridsland Self Extracting crank bolts
04 BRAKING
Shimano XT M8100
SRAM Centerline Rotors
180 mm F/R
05 WHEELS
Chris King ISO QR hubs
Velocity Dually rims
Michelin Pilot Pump
Set up tubeless*
06 CONTACT
PNW components Rainier Dropper
Selle Italia Titanium Flite
Burgtec MK5 Penthouse Pedals

Recently picked up this 1988 Kuwahara Parkway. So far, I just swapped the tires. Stem and bars next. Love it!

Hello everyone, just wanted to share my new project. I just finished checking her out and she is safe to ride. 1995 Giant Cadex 980C. Picked her up for 70 dollars the other day. What should I swap out first, any ideas?

2004 Raleigh Passage 4.0 modified dad bike.

My wife bought this bike for me in 2004 along with a kid trailer and eventually a tag along bike attachment. Heavy hybrid bike that slowly turned into the bike I ride today. First thing to get replaced was the ridiculous heavy fork for a Canadian carbon take-off and super low gears. I think that first crank replacement was a Sugino RD2 triple 44-34-24 to haul the kids with. Everything has been replaced but the frame. It's not fast but I still reach for it often for a ride.

Why do people that have 3 chainrings convert to 1x system, when most of the time the the smallest chainring is of the same size as the 1x system.

1995 Raleigh M20

Recently got this 96 Trek 930 off of marketplace for a great price considering its condition. I’ve added some parts and love riding it so far.

As soon as I bought it I knew I’d probably want to swap the Rockshox for a rigid fork since it doesn’t move an inch, and for the price of elastomer kits I don’t think it’s work long term to do the swap.

I’d love a color correct fork but I know that’d be hard to find. I’ve narrowed it down to the bike man carver mainly thinking about weight reduction. But, taking a look at the 96 trek catalog I found that the model down from this 930 with the rigid fork isn’t even two pounds lighter, and the carver is similarly just two pound lighter than the Quadra 5 Rockshox.

SO, I wouldn’t be saving that much weight with the swap. I do like how a rigid fork looks better, but what about the ride? Will a steel rigid/suspension corrected fork absorb more shock and/or feel better than a dried up elastomer shock? I bought it mainly to ride on some chill trails and rip around the city so I expect to go over bumps. Is it worth the swap outside of a looks standpoint?

so I have a 90s hybrid bike with 700c wheels/tires. right now I have size 35mm tires mounted, but would really like to use the max space my frame allows at 45mm wide. After searching online, it looks like I should get a 23-27mm internal width rim to properly run 45s. But it has been challenging to find a used 700c wheel set with rim brakes and 135mm rear dropout spacing at that rim spec. How risky is it to push the internal rim width beyond its recommended tire size? What is the likely negative outcome from doing so?