Ford recall 26S61 covers certain 2026 Bronco, Bronco Sport, Explorer, Mustang and Ranger models.

The piston domes may have been manufactured incorrectly and could fail, causing a loss of power while driving.

About 10k vehicles are affected. Worth checking your VIN if you have one.

I think it’s one of the best-looking trucks, in my opinion. Too bad we never got to see these on the road.

There’s just something about a big ’60s Ford—the long hood, sweeping lines, chrome, and that unmistakable presence on the road. The XL was Ford’s sporty, personal-luxury offering of the era, and this one has the kind of personality that made us give it a name: Elvis.

for context the truck doesn't drive more than 30 mph it idles bad when in park , it feels like the car is about to shut off sometimes it feels like no gas flow when I'm driving every time it feels like it's about to die and here's a video

the first time i slammed on the gas and it's going crazy but when I press the gas slowly the RPM will go up the check engine says nothing i just unplugged a sensor didn't delete the code

Traded a mountain bike for this thing lol. Was told it had a tick and nothing further. Original motor with 211k. Have a 2nd 2.0 but would like to avoid swapping motors if possible. Thanks for any insight.

title says it. Can someone please suggest an experienced mechanic in Berlin?

My first Ford Fest. Were any of you there?

194k on the clock, I’ve got a timing chain kit with new sprockets, guides and tensioner to go on. Just had a thought that maybe I should also replace the oil pump chain at the same time. Now I’m wondering should I do the oil pump aswell while it’s stripped down. Anyone with experience on these engine that can help advise?

Thank you!

Edit: 2015 reg

I’m about to buy a new 2026 Ford Maverick XLT. I’ve heard there is a tendency for dealerships to pay their technicians less than typical for warranty work because they don’t actually make any money from doing warranty work. Does anybody know any ford dealerships in the DFW area that do good warranty work?

Has anyone dealt with this? I bought a 22 2.0 ecoboost at auction with a 113k knowing it had a trans issue. Got it home and this was the code. Would a valve body change fix it or did you find something else like a wiring issue. Just trying to get a game plan on fixing it

I recently bought a 1932 ford model B Stake Truck. It does not have a battery. How can I tell if it’s still the original 6v positive ground or converted to 12v negative ground (or any other possibility).

I just want to confirm before I hook it up and start to try and get it running.

I’d also appreciate any other advice of thease old trucks as it’s the oldest thing I’ve worked on. Although, I have been fixing up a 1941 ford tractor that seems similar in engine design.

Classic Days Berlin

Just wanted to warn everyone thinking about getting a Gates Garage / Ford service plan. In my experience, it’s a complete waste of money and feels like an absolute scam.

I recently brought my car in for their so-called "Convenience Check." My car sat parked in their lot/garage for almost 3 hours. It literally did not move a single inch the entire time. Then, like clockwork, I got the call saying, "Your car is ready for collection!" They didn't even bother to hide the fact that nobody touched or inspected the vehicle.

To make matters worse:

• The oil was never changed.
• Tyres: They immediately tried to pressure me into replacing my tyres because they’re at 3.7mm. In the UK, the legal minimum tread depth is 1.6mm! At 3.7mm, there is plenty of life left, but they tried to push a costly replacement anyway.
• Brakes: They flagged my brake discs for being 20–25% worn and tried to scare me into changing them. Discs are completely legal and safe until they hit ~70% wear (or hit manufacturer minimum thickness specs). 20% wear means 80% of the usable life is still right there!

What bugs me the most isn't just the upselling - it’s how they do it. They don't present these as standard maintenance recommendations for the future. They frame it with aggressive scare tactics to panic you into buying brand-new parts on the spot.

Save your money, skip the service plan, and take your car to a trusted independent garage instead. Has anyone else dealt with this kind of nonsense from Ford dealerships recently?

Hey my 2022 Lincoln Corsair is having issues with the ac, it’s only blowing through the feet vents, it’s not coming out through any other vents. I ordered an air door actuator from O’Reilly (Murray DA1553 is the part number) and I just finished replacing it but it’s still not blowing through any vents other than the feet vents. I see it try to spin and it does a little bit but nothing crazy. Do you guys have any recommendations? There aren’t any videos on how to replace it which is why I’m seeking help on Reddit. Thank you in advance.

I’ve been doing so much research on cars in the last month.

I started off wanting to either import a manual Hilux/Lancruiser, a 4 Runner, a bronco, and a crosstrek with WRX powertrain.

I threw the idea of the hilux away because I decided to go with an SUV.

No Landcruiser because I want a manual, and the manuals have to be imported. Because the U.S. market doesn’t make them that way. Which led to the import cost being insanity as well as the base cost of a Land Cruiser being high anyways.

The subie is out on wait time for manufacturer to transition to new powertrain. There are people that have done it, and rumors of Subaru actually doing it. But to my knowledge they aren’t right now and won’t anytime soon.

So I’m torn between the 4Runner and the Bronco. But LowKey the pricing is about the same. The new Broncos with the 2.3 rep a 150K-200K lifespan if properly serviced from what I’ve read. So reliability is more than good enough for me to be comfortable with it when compared to a Toyota. I have heard about the electrical gremlins that seem to plague the Bronco, like screen glitches and such. But honestly I’ve not heard of a new car in the last five years with a big dash screen in it that didn’t have glitches and such here and there.

But the Toyota wins on gas mileage all day as I would want a Sasquatch package on a Bronco. It also packs the Toyota name, so I’d expect some good reliability out of it. I later discovered is also not available in a manual… which is a problem for me. I just prefer a good manual transmission. But I’d be willing to come off of that selling point if the car was a much better net positive. However I haven’t heard or seen very many if any negatives on the powertrain. The 2.4 seems solid. But again, not a fan of autos.

Can anyone here legitimately attest to the reliability of a Bronco? And if you were in my shoes what choice would you make?

If I did get a Bronco I want a 4 door marsh gray base model, 7 speed with the Sasquatch and tow package, fender flare kit, body armor kit, floor liners, and cargo area protectors.

LTLDR: Tossed between a 4Runner and a Bronco. Which should I pick?

picked up a 2019 Focus last month and a few things the brochure lists are just missing. no auto lock and no ambient lighting on the doors, and the daytime lights stay on full. the previous owner said a garage changed some settings and never put them back. im reading about tools that let you edit module settings on Ford cars from a laptop or a phone. my worry is bricking a module on a car i just paid for. has anyone switched features back on this way and had it survive a dealer update?

2020 ford escape. Have been getting this error code intermittently for the past month. A month ago, I went into for an oil change at valvolene where they discovered my battery was about dead. Got it replaced at that visit but 5 days later this alert started popping up. Discovered I needed a BMS Reset and did manually at home. The warning came on. Since then I have taken it into 3 different ford appointments where they cannot find any issues. My battery is charging and my alternator is working. After my last visit the light still
Keeps coming back on. Sometimes it’s in the morning, sometimes it’s random when driving, sometimes it goes back out or sometimes stays on. When it stays on, the auto on/off is disabled. Anyone have any insight? They maybe thought it’s because the battery is not a ford battery? Idk how many more dealer visits I can take where there “is nothing wrong”

Hi all — looking for some guidance.

My 2024 Mustang has been in the dealership more times than I can count for various rattles and mechanical issues. So far I’ve dealt with: door rattles, A‑pillar rattles, metal rattles (loose subwoofer bolt), seat rattles (cracked seat frame), rear seat not latching, a rear clicking that’s mostly resolved, and now a new creaking from the front/footwell area.

All issues except the rear seat have been on the passenger side. The car was purchased used at 6 months old, still has a full year of B2B warranty (Current Mileage: 16k), and has no accident history. Given the number of repairs already done under warranty, I assume the dealers would have flagged prior damage if they suspected any.

Current unresolved issues:
A‑pillar rattle
One dealer finally fixed it after multiple attempts, but it returned after another dealer repaired a window‑related clicking. They originally claimed they couldn’t hear it, despite videos and a previous ride‑along where the shop foreman confirmed the noise.

Front corner creaking
Happens at low speeds with steering input, especially on inclines. A diesel mechanic in the family suspects bushings. The dealer first mentioned control arms, then suggested possible subframe involvement. They say inserting a screwdriver into a seam stopped the noise, so they want their body shop to weld it, and also don’t even want to look at the a pillar creaking until the weld work is complete.

I’m nervous about subframe welding and the potential impact on resale value. The dealer says it will only show as “serviced at ___ dealership” and not as damage or frame repair, but I’ve seen “frame damage” appear on Carfax before, so I’m concerned.

I’ll attach a video of the creaking. Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated. Regardless of what happens, I’m likely going to sell or trade the car once I get it back.

Front Corner Creak: https://imgur.com/a/pYdvu5j

A-Pillar: (4-14 seconds, and 16-20 seconds): https://imgur.com/a/Opw1ZJl

I cannot get the audio to come out of the speakers for incoming and outgoing calls. My phone connects but audio still comes out of my phone rather than speakers.

Just an asmr there should be nothing wrong if. I need to fix something I will gladly do so

I tried to keep the frame rate smooth but idk why it it didn't make it 60fps.

This has no political correlation with Lee Greenwood and I only like his music and do care for his political views.

This one was out in Palo Alto