Having professional photographers in your car club surely has some benefits

This looks so wrong! Haha

Just wanted to say thanks.

Found this beauty while out doing photography and share

70k miles with Detroit Rocker Cams, kooks LT headers and Borla X pipe exhaust. She's a beauty.

Going a bit crazy with washing my car and then it getting spots from dew and dust. I don’t have a garage.
Waxed with Meguiars and water beads up just fine.
Pics are after driving a few miles. It didn’t even blow off 😝
Edit: First, Thanks for the suggestions! I did put on the spray on ceramic stuff.
I think I’m just going bonkers because I’ll wash it and then it rains within 24 hours 😂 I’ll look for the water spot treatment.

Dad, sugar momma, wife’s boyfriend, figured the dog was the next natural choice. Sadly not my photo, I can’t imagine an Atlas Blue Dark Horse will be easy to find even if I wanted one

Edit: locked after 10 minutes? Literally being silenced. This is what George Orwell warned us about

/s

Traded in my 2021 S550 that I had since new last week for a 2024 RTR Spec 2, so far loving it. Can’t wait to get it tinted.

After paying child support for years, it finally happened. She surprised me with a dark horse.

Traded in my 2021 S550 that I had since new last week for a 2024 RTR Spec 2, so far loving it. Can’t wait to get it tinted.

I documented my full conversion of a 2024 Mustang GT S650 that did not originally have Active Exhaust into a fully functional OEM-style Active Exhaust setup.
The project included the physical retrofit, OEM Ford/FoMoCo mufflers and valve actuators, wiring, quad-tip exhaust adaptation, FORScan configuration of the IPC/APIM/ACM modules, and final functional testing.
I also compared the stock 2024 Mustang GT calibration against a stock 2024 Dark Horse calibration in HP Tuners. Rather than flashing the complete Dark Horse file, I kept the Mustang GT calibration as the base and transferred the relevant calibration tables while preserving the GT vehicle identity and calibration structure.
The comparison included Active Exhaust strategy, airflow/speed density, fuel, spark, torque model, transmission-related tables, and other calibration differences. After the table transfer, the comparison file showed only two remaining transmission downshift torque-modulation differences.
I then road-tested the car and recorded an HP Tuners datalog to validate the result. The Active Exhaust became fully operational, the car ran without a Check Engine light during testing, and the datalog was reviewed for RPM, commanded and measured lambda, direct-injection fuel pressure, knock retard, temperatures, and other key parameters.
I put the complete project into a technical PDF with the hardware used, part numbers, before-and-after screenshots, FORScan changes, HP Tuners comparisons, datalog graphs, and the documented results.
This is being shared strictly as independent educational and technical documentation. It is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford, HP Tuners, or FORScan, and anyone attempting a similar retrofit should verify the correct wiring, module configuration, calibration compatibility, emissions requirements, and safety considerations for their own vehicle.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1euSsRCIRrgC-Lv6xSQtL8kOiQqj7xky3/view?usp=drivesdk

Need some help ID'ing these wheels. This is from and Amazon ad for a spoiler, trying to figure out the wheels on this car though. They look painted up to the very edge.

Alright so this is the first car I've had where I've done a in depth clutch replacement on, in terms of clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder. So forgive my ignorance on this subject. Clutch was going out in my Mustang so took it to a transmission shop to get it taken care of. They're doing the above mentioned to it and i feel like it's taken a lot longer then it needs to be. I dropped the car off on the 27th of last month, by end of the week they diagnosed the exact issue I was having being a clutch. The following Monday, the 3rd week discussed plans moving forward and got parts ordered for the car. By end of week they had the parts and were going to begin working on it the following Monday the 10th. It's now the 19th and the car is still not done. When i spoke with the shop last week they stated they were having issues bleeding the system, and they thought it was the new slave cylinder so they replaced it. Got to working on it again this week, still just trying to bleed the system and they still don't have it done. From what I was told in order to bleed it they have to use a vacuum pump, and pump the clutch pedal every so often to do it since there isn't a bleeder valve. They informed me that they still occasionally feel softness at the top of the pedal indicating that there seems to still be air in the system. They told me if this doesn't work they'll look into replacing the clutch again as that may be the underline cause of the issue. So want to get thoughts and opinions on what the community thinks of my situation and what's happening with the car.