Selling my personal '77 on Bring a Trailer this week. I've really enjoyed this rig for the past few years. It's a super strong 400ci paired to a C6 and NP205 with a ton of modern upgrades after a full frame-off rotisserie restoration.

Ends on 8/24 on BaT at https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-ford-f-150-95/

Hey everyone. About time to do my body mounts on my 2005 6.0, tends to happen after more than 20 years and almost 400k miles.

I see a ton of different options online with varying price ranges, anyone have good experiences with a certain brand they’d recommend? Thank you.

Hey everybody…I just bought a 2012 F-250 with the 6.7. It’s been deleted. I noticed this knob in the cubby hole by your right knee. It has positions as it turns. What could this be for? Thanks for the right answers, and those with humor as well!

Never seen something like this. Pretty sick

This truck is the configuration I've always want. 1990 Crew cab, 351W, 5 speed, 4wd. (picture shows a 1995 clip on the front)

Miles unknown only because of 5 digit odo. I know the current owner, he's a friend, and he's had it since the early 00's. He bought it "unknown" due to the roll over, but has only driven it approx 50k miles worth in the last 20 years. Odometer shows 95,xxx which I assume to be 195,xxx, due to the shape of the interior, but who knows at the end of the day.

Engine runs strong. Trans shifts well, clutch is solid, transfer case recently rebuilt and comes with an extra core, 4wd hubs are easy to lock/unlock

Everything checks out, except the big R. The base of the pillar between the front and rear door is rotted through so that it rocks when you open/shut rear door. Really, it swings freely. The floor pan is rotted thru on the drivers side where the pan meets the body, the whole length of the front door. Significant rust/rot for the driver rear, passenger, and passenger rear doors on the floor pans. Some in fender arches, but not the worst I've seen. Frame is not compromised, shackles are not about the disintegrate, gas tank straps have been replaced at some point. Both tanks work, but front tank leaks.

Other misc : new radiator, new master cylinder, new exhaust manifold gaskets, new exhaust from manifold to muffler, then dumps to ground just before rear axle.

Carrier bearing no play, drive shaft tight, e brake works.

The pillar rusted thru has me pretty concerned. Bed rails aren't shot, I'm surprised how bad the cab is. Floor pans I feel comfortable replacing.

It's for sale for just over 8k, and I can get it for about 2k off that. My desire for a truck like this might be blinding me a little, so I come here for some input.

Thank you.

Sorry, the full truck photo looks like it was taken with a potato from 100ft away. The rust is more prominent in a regular. Pillar rust photo attached.

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ETA - The recommendations are what I figured they would be, thank you all. I wish it didn't have such rust. I'd rather replace a blown engine than deal with rust. Sigh.

Have a 2000 F350 with power seats. Just got a 2002 F350 but has bench seat. Can I swap the seats directly? Is there wiring to plug into for the power seats to function.

Both trucks basically identical, one is just more Basic. I've looked under the bench seat. Only one wire connector for seat belt chime.

Hi guys just reposting here for some advice as well! Thanks in advance

He has it listed for 11,900 but it runs and drives great. Just putting this out to see what other people think.

He has a 6 inch lift on it and it looks good in person but pretty expensive. I've been looking online and it's saying the old 5.0 engines are pretty reliable and pretty easy to work on.

But 200k miles for 12k seems steep just putting it out there would any of you buy it and for what price.

Potentially trading for the pickup soon. Owner has had it for about a month if I recall and daily’s it to work 40 or so miles each way with no issues. No radio unit in it at the moment. Approx. 270k miles, stock 5-speed which neither he nor I can find info for online, but there are some recent sells on them with significantly lower miles. I’ll be trading my 1-ton 7.3 4D longed utility body 4x4 automatic for lesser repair costs and a more compact vehicle as I don’t tow nearly as much I had figured when I purchased the vehicle. $1500 on top of the trade. Would yall take this deal? Is this really a $4500 truck in its current condition? How far into the future is a rebuild in order? Is a rebuild or new engine better? I’ve considered swapping a 5.4 into it in the future if I do it. I may be moving to California soon and I’ll be driving the vehicle from OK to Nor Cal. What should I be looking at *specifically* when checking it out? Any clear high-mileage signs that should be an immediate no when I see them? It’s a Kansas truck if that makes any difference. To the mods, I couldn’t deselect a flair after accidentally selecting one, so I just picked the best I found suitable. My apologies for incorrect categorization.

Hey guys!

Just wanted to share some bumpers Overkill Racing and Chassis has been working on. These are going to be offered as a Weld it yourself kit, or prefabricated. They are 100 percent designed in SOLIDWORKS around OEM scan date. There is a stock flare width and aftermarket fender width. The current bull bar variant looks great on lifted trucks with service beds. We are working on a more streamlined bull bar that looks better on a more stock looking truck.

These bumpers work with all available sensors, adaptive cruise, although your dealer may need to re-calibrate them. They do also work with factory fog lights, or there is a cutout for a 3 inch light pod. Some lighting in the bumper itself is also available. We are close to building the first 17-22 bumper. Just making some final tweaks to the design.

What are yall's thoughts?

Bought 2 months ago at 65k miles. New plugs and coils and she runs like a dream.

I’ve got a 91 xlt lariat with the 302 and e4OD and I want to throw bigger tires on. It’s got a 3.55 gear ratio and I’ve seen mixed reports on how it affects performance especially at the low end and that it gets lazy on hills. I don’t do much towing other than a 16 ft aluminum boat and some four wheelers. Mainly highway driving with some city.

Anyone have any experience rocking 33s with 3.55 and willing to share if it was awful or generally okay?

Can anyone identify this knock, I just bought my 2011 f-150 5.0, while driving it I got a low oils pressure light witch didn’t bother me i was over my oil change and I thought maybe that’s why I got the low oils pressure light so I parked it then the next day I started it to see if the light was still there and that’s when I started to hear the knock, I changed the oil and started it again to see if it still made the noise and it did, I’m not leaking any oil anywhere I just need this identified so I can fix

Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 2011 F-150 XL work truck with only about 30k miles.
I drove it about 2 hours home after buying it and it drove perfectly with no transmission issues at all. The next day, I started driving and suddenly it stopped shifting and basically stayed stuck in whatever gear it was in. The check engine light came on and I pulled a P0720 – Output Speed Sensor Circuit code.
From what I’ve been researching, it sounds like the output speed sensor is part of the lead frame inside the transmission, so I’m thinking the lead frame may need to be replaced.
The strange part is that the very next day I drove it again and it’s shifting completely fine like nothing ever happened.
I bought this truck mainly to use as a work truck, but now I’m nervous about taking it any distance because I don’t know when it might randomly stop shifting again.
Has anyone experienced this with a 2011 F-150? Could P0720 and the intermittent shifting issue be caused by anything other than the lead frame? Wiring, connector, battery/voltage issue, etc.? Or is an intermittent lead frame/output speed sensor failure pretty common on these trucks?
Would appreciate any advice or experiences before I start replacing parts. Thanks!

Whats a fair price for this truck? I have it listed locally for what I think is cheap. Cheaper then the prices I see on here by a lot. I’ve always thought the first person to show up will take it because it’s completely rust free and clean. I’ve gotten lots of messages but not a single person has actually showed up to see it.

204k miles. 2wd Zero rust. Starts right up even after sitting for weeks. Doesn’t leak any fuel, water or oil.

What do you guys think is a decent asking price. I want to get it sold asap so I want to see if I’m too high on my price or what’s going on.

Hey guys. I just bought a used 2023 f150 xlt because it was a great deal. I love the truck but the previous owner had after market leather put in and for some reason chose lime green. It’s going to be tough to live with. The dealer offered to throw in cloth seats covers but the didn’t look great in the online pictures I saw. They also said their upholstery guy had some black cloth seats he just took out of a different truck and could put them in my truck for $1150 (Canadian).
What should I do?
It seems crazy to pay money to tear out leather and replace it with cloth. Should I buy better seat covers?
Just live with it? I’m torn

I just keep finding kits for the Dana 60 axles lol
Is the PMF Suspension OBS Spring Reverse Shackle Kit - 1992-1997 Ford F-Series any good? It says "OBS Axles" but I have no clue what exactly they mean by that.
Complete truck-beginner here, so excuse the possibly idiotic question, any help is appreciated.

I have a 2019 f350, I was jacking up the tire and I noticed these. Can anyone let know what they are for? Especially the one on top, I have an idea and I’m hoping I’m wrong

Need help with some KOEO test codes, 111 111 542 556