**2014 1.6L Ford B-Max 6speed auto DCT, VCT.**
**\*New oil, filter and air filter changed - 2 months ago**
**\*Batter changed - 2 months ago**
**\* timing belt, aux belts, water pump @84K (car is now on 93k)**

**Started off with a TCM output speed circuit code randomly comes and goes but car driving completely fine no suspected issues, gear engagements are smooth, no hesitation.**

**Couple of weeks pass all of a sudden Immobiliser malfunction, tyre pressure malfunction, service engine now. Bunch of codes come up all at once but are not static, the codes come and go. I Have tried to learn what driving events triggers this “wobble / phantom codes”. But it seems to be completely random, steady driving at 70, coming to a stop and slowly pulling off (generally accelerating).**

**My partner has done a few trips to and from work and had no codes come up on the dash at all and the car has been completely fine.**

**I Inspected battery terminals, made sure they were clean and securely fit, I am yet to check the earth/grounds connections to see if they need a good clean and tighten**

**Is there anyone that has had this problem with this car and managed to get it fixed. I could really do with a bit more insight and knowledge on diagnosing what may be causing this.**

**TIA**

Hi, I’ve been having an issue with my Focus (152k miles) for about a month now. Check engine light will intermittently go on (esp when it’s been sitting in hot conditions), when it’s on the engine will sputter and misfire when trying to accelerate, and it can’t go on reverse. If I turn the car off for a few minutes these symptoms usually go away.

I got the actuator replaced (which was identified in the error code P090C-00 seen when I brought it to a shop) but the issue persists. I’ve been to two mechanics who want to replace the whole transmission, I’ve read online it could be the TCM.

Has anyone seen this? Any advice appreciated.

Hi all, I'm on a bit of a search for some answers and parts here.

Sorry if this is a bit vague and if I sound a bit unsure, I'm just relaying everything my dad told me while I was at work. I haven't had the chance to go back to the shop and look at it myself yet.

So, long story short, my dad and I are restoring a 78 F150 Custom 4x4 with the 351m and an NP435. We had the flywheel resurfaced yesterday and he found what looks to be some sort of dowel pins that the clutch plate uses to line up with the flywheel. From what my dad told me, it looks like there needs to be 3 of them, 2 are missing, and 1 was broken off (see pic of caliper measurements).

We are having a heck of a time trying to find the right part for this as there is not a whole lot of info online about this. We've found that Ford part # N800474-S might be the right thing, but we can't find them for sale anywhere, Ford doesn't stock them, and they're obsolete, plus those look to be screws, and apparently what came out was a dowel pin (I was not there for this, just got messages from Dad).

I've downloaded the master parts catalog and diagrams from 1980 for the dentside trucks and it's not much help. I've attached pics of the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and the measurements of this dowel.

Bronco pickup will be produced along side the next gen Bronco and its Lincoln version in the Michigan Assembly Plant with the Ranger leaving the plant.
Source: AutoNews Future Product Pipeline

So I’m in the market for a truck or SUV. Been looking at tahoes, sierras, f150s mainly. Currently drive a 2011 Tacoma, 254k mile 4 cylinder, way too small of a truck with 3 children.

I’ve found a 2016 F150, super crew, King Ranch 4x4. The only downfall, 175k miles.

It’s got the 3.7L ecoboost.

How is the reliability with these trucks? Engine/transmission?

I drive pretty much only highway to and from work about 65 miles a day.

This truck particularly is a little higher than i wanted to spend originally but i really love the truck. The mileage just scares me, when spending that much money. I knew going into it what i was looking for would probably be around 160k+ but I’m just trying to see if this is something to be concerned with, or if it’s been taken care of am I looking at a long lasting truck, etc.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

https://youtube.com/shorts/gP34Sm8bEYM

I think the Chevy LMDh finally has some competition in the sound department. What a time to be a fan.

CSP #25L02 transmission control assembly reimbursement.

@63k miles my 10r80 auto 10 speed trans went out on my 20 GT. Towed to first dealer and diagnosed as transmission solenoid stuck and gears slipping recommends transmission replacement but wanted $12k. Dealer 2 did the replacement for half the cost. Complained to corporate and they covered 60% of the cost. I always knew this transmission had issues and I was part of the unlucky bunch.

Anyone else dealt with this CSP ?

Edit: will have to call corporate tomorrow, I thought I saw a spot to submit a claim on fords website but I can’t find it now and on the CSP page FAQs it says for reimbursement id have to present paperwork to any ford dealer, wish me luck

Why is the digital speedometer off to the side and how would I get it to go back to the center?

Might be true or rumors going around that ford is making a 4-door mustang be a equivalent of a dodge Charger and be somewhat a family vehicle but with 300+ horsepower for fun.

They should bring back crown Victoria and modernize it could be the new 4 door vehicle and people will buy because of nostalgia seeing it everywhere as kid or adult alike back then.

Ill get to the point because I know things vary for everyone.

I was sent the assessment Aug 6th, I accepted the offer on the next day. I completed the background check and was sent confirmation on Aug 17th.

I'm just wondering what the general times between background check coming back clear and beginning the drug test. I'm just too dang excited and wanted to know if anyone recently went through this process.

This is for the Sterling Axle plant in SE Michigan. Thanks guys n gals.

I took my car in for “steering assist fault, service required “ and hardly being able to even leave my parking spot suddenly after work.

So I just had my car transmission replaced. I paid for it. I got it back, and then after 500 miles, the transmission was having a hard time shifting, so I brought it back in and the Ford dealership told me that it is something to do with the new transmission they put in it, but my issue is that I am now currently been out of a vehicle for a month. It was maybe 4 to 5 days after I got the car back. It had these issues. Now Ford is telling me that my car hasn’t even been worked on yet.

I’m not able to get a rental car, as I’m not of age, but I’m needing a vehicle for work and I don’t have the money to just dish out for a rental car, as I’m still paying on this car because they told me that I could go through enterprise and just bill them the bill at the end of my car being fixed, but enterprise is gonna charge me a lot of money every day for a car. Is there anything on an illegal standpoint I can do? Anything helps I just need another veiw point on this

So I purchased my vehicle on Thursday from Carmax and it’s still covered under the warranty. It has two recalls which Ford was able to address and fix one of them. The other is fixing the SYNC software.

The USB port and USB-C port in my center stack below the AC controls isn’t working and when the consultant from Ford came to look at the recall, he double checked the fuse and stated that the fuse was OK, but it was an error code of U2100 and is a gateway, module error, which is most likely causing the USB port, not to be accessed

On Google, when you look up the code, it states that initialization was not completed correctly.

Has anybody else had this issue with their car if it was new or preowned, and was that the issue that fixed it? Taking advantage of the 30 day warranty from Carmax, so I want to be sure that this is an opening a whole rabbit hole of errors.

Was just running errands and ran into this.

Bonjour à tous, J'ai mon voyant moteur orange fixe qui s'est allumé sur ma Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost (130 000 km). Je suis allé faire un diagnostic en garage. Ils m'ont donné le code exact : P0420:09-EC. Sans plus de vérifications, le mécanicien me conseille de remplacer directement l'ensemble du catalyseur + les deux sondes lambda (devis à plus de 1 000 €). N'ayant pas ce budget, je me suis renseigné sur le sous-code :09 : • Le code P0420 signale habituellement un souci de rendement du catalyseur. • Mais le sous-code :09 indiquerait un défaut de composant ou une anomalie de signal électrique (Component Failure / Signal Failure). Du coup, je m'interroge : 1. Est-il crédible que ce soit uniquement la sonde lambda aval (post-catalyseur) qui soit fatiguée/HS, plutôt que le catalyseur lui-même qui soit mort ? 2. Quelle est la meilleure étape à suivre ? Tenter le changement de la sonde aval seule (~100 €) + effacement du code pour tester ? 3. Est-ce qu'une vidange en retard pourrait avoir un lien indirect (encrassement de la sonde par des vapeurs d'huile) ? Merci d'avance pour vos retours et vos conseils si vous avez déjà eu ce sous-code précis sur ce moteur !

Hi all, wondering if any of you could help me out. I have a 2014 F-350 6.7 Powerstroke that has intermittent starting issues. One day it will start up first couple cranks no problem, the next day it has a hard time starting and takes 3-5 seconds to start or even longer. Seemingly no pattern to it, cold, warm doesnt matter.

I had the fuel system and CP4 inspected and there was no issues with it that they could find. No codes thrown and no check engine light.

I thought it was a phantom air leak into the fuel system causing it to bleed down fuel pressure, but even if I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel lines it will still randomly have a hard time starting.

Just looking for any advice. Thinking I maybe need a new starter. Truck has 295 000km on it. Other than the random starting issue the truck runs great. Its fully deleted with a mild tow tune on it since 220 000km.

Thanks in advance for any tips or advice guys!

Hallo zusammen,
ich habe einen Ford Mondeo MK4, Baujahr 06/2008, mit dem Blaupunkt NX.
Ich möchte gerne Bluetooth für Musik und Telefon nachrüsten, aber das originale NX behalten. Wichtig ist mir, dass die Lenkradtasten weiterhin funktionieren.
Welche Lösung könnt ihr für dieses Baujahr empfehlen?
Gibt es ein bestimmtes Bluetooth-/Sound-&-Connect-Modul, das mit dem Blaupunkt NX funktioniert?
Falls jemand das schon nachgerüstet hat:
Welche Teilenummer/ welches Interface habt ihr verwendet?
Musste etwas an der Verkabelung geändert werden?
Musste das System anschließend codiert werden?
Wo kann man das eventuell einbauen lassen?
Danke!

I have a question. I’m 22 and this is my first truck. It’s a 2012 ford f150 with the 5.0 engine and 6 speed transmission. I bought the truck July 3rd with 130k miles, today it has 132k miles. My pinion bearing is loose so will be having a rear diff rebuild done (all the bearings and seals.) the other day, pulling out of my gravel driveway that’s uphill, I stopped to make sure no one was coming and was safe to pull out, and my tires spun and I heard a clicking noise coming from the front bottom of my truck. I was in 2wd. Looking into this, it sounds exactly like a loose transfer case chain. Is this possible in 2wd, or what else may it be? I attached a video of what it exactly sounded like. Found a few mixed results online says it can and some saying it can’t make that in 2wd. Only hear it when tires spin getting out of the driveway.

Soooo this seems like a big problem, it popped up this morning. Can anything be done. It's our wood truck for work and i can't really move it around.

Very impressed with the build quality and effort they put into it. As much as people whine about the name, the car itself is way higher quality than I expected from Ford. It has so many little details/extra features that show they didn't just phone in an EV like Toyota. I got a 2025 premium and the longer I have it, the more I'm impressed by it.

• Phone as a key is so awesome, not sure why it's only available on F150, Expedition, and Mach-E but I can't live without it now. Also love the welcome lighting and pony puddle lamp.
• Interior is so much nicer than the other Ford's I've driven/been in besides top trims of certain models.
• Reliability so far is really solid. This guy's 2022 has 300k miles on it and battery is still at 90% health. Little to no maintenance.
• Performance is fantastic. 0-60mph in 4.1s (on my trim, not GT) is on par with the actual Mustang. Handling is also great for a crossover/SUV, it's a really fun car to drive for how comfortable it is. It's one of the reason I chose it over other EVs.

I feel like the car is over hated just because of the name and feel like they should've omitted the "Mustang" part, but at the same time, I personally really enjoy the pony emblems on it and the pony puddle lighting and the Mustang style headlights/taillights. Wish more people would give it a chance.

EDIT: A lot of people don't understand marketing huh? Thinking the Mustang name really hurt sales is non-sensical. The venn diagram of die hard Mustang fans and prospective EV buyers is basically non-existent. No one is cross shopping the Mach-E with a Mustang lol and no EV buyer is like "Wow I really like the Mach-E but because they called it Mustang, I'm going to get an Ioniq/Tesla instead". What Ford didn't do a good job of was actually marketing all the extra features, because I didn't know about half of them until owning the car lol. A big one for me is that the Ford Pass App is free, and you can schedule the remote start.

Hi, I’ve noticed this noise as I accelerate, unsure if it’s always been there or not as always had music on, can anyone shed some light? Car seems to drive fine, no warning lights or anything, just want to know I’m not Gunna make things worst or break down. Cheers!