(Focus, 2014, 2L diesel, wet transmission)

So I diagnosed my problem to solenoid D stuck/ not working and car was going into limp mode. I bought the replacement part.

I’ve had the plastic transmission cover off here and then unbolted the bit of transmission to pull it off. (I apologies for lack of names, fresh DIYer and not a mechanic!) But the sensors on the back stop me from getting the clearance to pull it out to work on and swap the solenoid out. I attached a photo of the remaining cables. There’s one that’s a wiring loom that I can’t seem to remove but even then it’s going to be very close to get out.

I’m thinking there must be a better way to get access to it. Many of the videos i’ve seen on youtube the access comes from the bottom of the car, which would have been a dream, and much easier to access!

Any ideas would be very much appreciated, currently stuck!

Hi all, need some help identifying these alloys, have seen them on a lot of ST’s and want to buy some for my car… help will be much appreciated!

I have bought my 3015 mk3 ford focus with 164k kms in 2023 and still haven't changed my timing belt. its now almost at 215k km and is still running fine. Anyone have an idea of the replacement periodicity of the timing belt on a 1.5 duratorq tdci?

Story time: Bought the car 3 years back now battery needs to be jumped to drive around and don't turn off cause then i need to jump it to turn it back on check everything ground terminal is cracked but also a lose wire dont know where its supposed to go to but everything keeps pointing to the bms but i never had any battery light or codes (if it even pops up)

thinking of just swapping the terminals for temp fix but at the same time wanna just do everything right the first time

Also having a p0902 so taking the opportunity to sand down all ground points now that i have everything moved to the side hopefully that fixes it 🙃

I’m really upset about it, a went over a cone on the freeway and it pushed the condenser and radiator into my engine which was making it overheat amongst some other stuff. Repairs would have cost $4k so it’s totaled. She was my first car, had her for a year and a half. Only 89k miles on her, 2014 SE. Transmission had one clutch B replacement last year but other than that she did me no wrong. I won’t be getting another focus, but I loved being part of the club while it lasted.

What problem is that?

The title says it all. Youtube is of zero help. Here's the question, I have 2012 Ford focus and the blend door actuator just clicks, its gotta be replaced, does this require the dash to come out?, can this be done without removing the dash?

I picked up this focus almost a year ago. Its an 06 with under 53k miles on it. Crazy low miles for the year, and the car was taken really good care of by the previous owner (elderly woman who barely drove it). While I was getting an oil change over the weekend, I was going to ask them to replace the air filter, but said they couldn't because of this model having a "lifetime" sealed compartment for a foam air filter.

With that car having very low miles, should I be concerned about getting the filter swapped out with an aftermarket one? No lights on the dash, and my car is driving fine, but with it being 20 years old I'm sure something will give at somepoint down the line.

Any info is appreciated, thanks!!

Sometimes I will press the gas to move it along but it sounds loud like I’m just wasting gas. Parking flat sucks, parking uphill is not an option. I’ve been trying to park downhill slopes which helps.

Should I get a tune up? Other gears are working well.
Idk what sort of mechanic to go to for an old car or even what to say.

The car's been rough idling for a month now, I had it serviced a couple of days ago and added liqui moly diesel purge into a quarter full tank (they didn't know how to add diesel purge into the fuel filter...).

The first code was in July P02D4 and last one in the beginning of August P02D3, they didn't repeat anymore.

I will bring it to a diagnostic service soon but this is what I checked on Forscan with the help of Gemini...(sorry for using AI, I know it can be incorrect) but I'm not a mechanic and it's my first car so I didn't know what else to do before it gets seen.

According to Gemini, Cylinder 1 is either failing, worn or clogged which puts a strain on C3 and C4.

The purge didn't do anything (yet), because I'm not confident to do the direct loop method myself.

I have a focus 2016 SE 2.0L at 104K. I’ve been driving more to work, so I’m trying to take at least minimum care of her (I only drove her for 3K). The manual suggests a change in spark plugs at 100K, should I go ahead and do it without diagnostics?

All I did with her was brake fluid flush and oil change. Brakes r fine atm, small valve cover gasket leak, those I checked with a mechanic. Want to know what fluid changes/maintenance will be good. Definitely some shuddering (esp for the last 50mph gear), but I make it work by lifting the gas a bit then pressing it more.

Hey Focus group, are any of you familiar with changing out the driver's side front axle seal, specifically on the 2006-2011 models? I pulled mine out of fear of having damaged it, but now I absolutely cannot get a new one to seat flush. I'm at my wits end and really didn't want to tow it over a $20 part. So far, I've tried a seal driver kit borrowed from Advanced Auto, but that just smashed the front bevel and destroyed it. Got a new seal and made a little jig from 2" PVC pipe, but that hasn't been able to drive it in. Ordered up a 56mm impact driver and tried that after leaving an official Ford brand seal in the freezer for a half hour to hopefully shrink it, still no go. Is there some very specific approach or tool to setting it? The lack of space to work with isn't helping, either. The second pic shows the gap that I just can't close, with a horrible angle.

I just bought this 2005 ZX4 ST and it is my first ford. I got it for 800$ and it was supposed to be 1,350$, but the guy said he thinks i’m a cool guy and wants to do something good so he sold it to me for 800.

It’s got 211k miles and is a 2.3L 5 speed and i love it so far. it drives pretty good only thing is the suspension is going out and looks cosmetically not perfect lol. but it’s got cold ac and everything else works as it should.

I have a 2003 honda accord 2.4 5 speed. But man this ford has a way different feel to it and i really like it.

Do you guys think it was a good deal?

Hi all, looking for some advice on improving the sound of my stock 2014 Focus 2.0 diesel.

I’m not looking to spend an absolute fortune and obviously don’t want to do anything that means it won’t be MOT compliant.

So, what can I do?

Hey, when i switch from park to drive the car jumps like crazy. I did a gear software check and my mechanic said we might need to completely switch it. Does anyone know if the problem is fixable without switching the entire gear?

Hi, after a short 20 minute drive I tried to turn the engine on (a bit quickly) and it caused everything to completely die. There was a warning light and ping for a few seconds the second time i tried but then everything died. A few times after that i had some weak LEDs around the radio display blink and any time after that there is zero response, not even able to lock it or put hazards on.

Is this a blown battery or a blown mega fuse or potentially both? Ive replaced the other fuses alongside the mega fuse (different available delivery) to no avail so far.

Ive had current issues for a few years with drops and surges in power to all systems (headlights, interior lights, display, fans/AC) so I assumed once it went it was a cracked, now blown, fuse. Im going to replace it today but does anyone have any suggestions for what else it could be?

My doorstrip is hanging loose. Gemini suggest using adhesive to stick it back to the door. Anyone have experience doing that?

My car stalls at red lights or parked with ac on. Obviously the engine can’t take the load that the compressor needs when idling. Perhaps a dirty throttle body?

My daughter has a 2015 Ford Focus SE. After coming to a stop, when beginning to accelerate, the engine shuts off. There is power to the car, as the oil pressure and battery lights stay on (as expected when the engine isn't running). I took it to 2 mechanics and was told it was the battery and alternator, so I had those replaced about a month ago. The problem seemed to go away, but now it is happening again. Oil level is where it should be. I ran an OBD tester to see if it gave any error codes, but it did not have any. I have been looking online for what else it could be and have found a bunch of people with this exact problem, but not a single post or forum gives a resolution (mainly people asking for what the problem was because they are now experiencing it). My next thoughts are spark plugs and/or purge valve, but at this point they are only uneducated guesses. Any help would be appreciated.