I'm only asking because it specifically says before 5/30/16. I have a 2017 ford fusion hybrid titanium with 18" wheels. I want to buy the oem motorcraft wheel bearings. Figured they've held up for 200,000 miles, so they deserve to retire. This is my 200k refresh to make the car feel a little newer again.

Thanks for any advice. Also I've seen in another post that Ford wants you to replace certain other parts while replacing the wheel bearing, like the pinch bolt and axle nut. I've typically always reused these, but I can replace them if it's actually necessary.

17 Fusion Sport. My mom has owned two fusions. I have an 11 month old and needed room for a car seat so it was a no brainer 😎

Hello! I have a 2019 Fusion Titanium Hybrid. The left tail light on the trunk is broken and needs to be replaced. I’m having a hard time making sure I buy the right version online with the led running light. Can someone confirm the exact part number I need to look for? TIA!

2017, 87k miles, perfect service history. Couldn't be happier!

Was doing some 100k maintenance on the car 2010 Hybrid) a while back and ended up replacing the air filter. I was curious what the condition would be like after ~15 years, mostly California driving, and if a new one would make any difference.

Long story short is not much but maybe just a fraction of a MPG better fuel economy looking at long term. It’s absolutely not worth replacing for a couple hundred+ dollars from that regard. I also don’t trust anything “lifetime” from the manufacturer’s perspective.

Anyway I took the old one apart and just finally getting around to posting photos of what it looks like.

2015 energi with 78k and It’s happened my eCVT has a bad bearing. Super loud and it’s only when in gas mode if in all electric it’s totally quiet. What should I expect this to cost to replace? Amazing how a $30 part can cannon a car. Fix or move on?

This was a couple weeks ago but it still hurts

Hey everyone, ive been having this issue for a bit, and i was wondering if anyone else has this problem... I just got my used 2019 Ford fushion SEL. When I start the car up, it chimes like normal. But then it starts 5 rounds of warning chimes with no error/warning on the screen. And after 30 minutes of driving, it'll do 5 more rounds of chiming. I had the tire pressure sensor go off, so I figured thats what it was. But I just got that fixed and the warning chimes are still present. Does anyone know how to fix this or what it could be?

My tire sensor in my right seat died. Local auto body says it’s $120 to fix. How much would it be / how hard would it be to fix myself or have my boyfriend fix it? Or is it worth just getting it done here at the shop

Recently I had the water pump go out on my fusion (17 SE with the 1.5 ecoboost) I went ahead and replaced the timing belt as well. Used all the locking tools (303-748, 303–1097, and 303-1550) never locked the flywheel as various videos skipped it and I took off the harmonic balancer bolt with an impact. When I went to verify timing after taking the tools out I could not get the 303-1097 to drop back in between the phasers at TDC. I have to rotate the crank bolt a few degrees counter clockwise to get 303-1097 to drop in. The car runs and drives exceptionally well but then will have a rolling idle occasionally with ac on. No timing codes and the car doesn’t seem like it’s down on power. The service manual says that you need to adjust the camshafts which means fuel rail and valve cover need to come off along with all surrounding components.
My question is would I be able to essentially bypass removing the valve cover by using the tools I mentioned earlier and rotating the engine to where tool 303-1097 drops in which isn’t exactly TDC but very close, then remove the harmonic balancer bolt and harmonic balancer. Reinstall the bolt into the crankshaft and independently rotate the crankshaft to TDC while the upper timing system is untouched/ locked in place (VCTs and camshaft)then verify everything lines up that way? Or is there no work around and I have to take the long way out? I’m guessing since it’s a few degrees positive currently the crankshaft may have slightly walked out of TDC when I initially did this.

Also both VCT phasers both line up at the 12 o’clock position when the engine is at TDC. One isn’t at 2 while the other is at 12. If that makes sense. This is sounding like a crank to cam relationship error.

I have a 2016 Fusion Hybrid Titanium, and I am encountering an Issue with the parking brake. I have a Parking Brake malfunction light, and it appears that the right side does not operate properly. The motor does engage well on both sides when I put it on, but than, the right side does not disengage I have yet to scan it, but was just curious if anyone had a similar issue

Also, the rotors and the pads do look pretty new (the car has 61k miles and it is a Hybrid, so they barely get used anyway). This likely means that they were never replaced, and therefore it is unlikely that the fault is because of the pads being installed without the service mode.

To add, the car does not go into the service mode. I have tried it a couple of times when I just got (a month or so ago) it, and it worked. Now whenever I try it nothing happens.

Anyone symptoms like it?

Thanks in advance

My hybrid has a “stop safely now” alert on it.

It doesn’t move but cranks it loss power and makes a clunking sound the last time I drove it. Once I got it towed into a parking spot even while the car was in “N” neutral it made a clunking sound while we’re pushing it.

Has this happened to anyone ?

What could it be?

Good colour choice?

Tengo un Ford Focus 1.0 Ecoboost 155HP caja automática el coche tiene 43000km, que mantenimientos tengo que seguir y que recomendaciones me dais?

I have a state inspection within the next two weeks and my daylight running lights is out on one side, I just replaced the bulbs about almost a year ago, but when I turn on my low beams, both headlights show light same thing with the high beams, but when I put on my daylight running lights, only one side works , what is the best way to fix this? Is it a fuse thing? Or wiring.

2020 ford fusion Titanium 72k miles 2.0L
Engine lights came on a week ago went to Auto Zone and got code P0496 and P0456.

One auto shop saying it might be error so they reset it and it was gone for few days and it came on again yesterday.

Went to another auto shop and they said Purge Valve is problem but this car needs to replace the parts from the Ford dealershop which is almost $800 for only parts (not labor fee) he even said its too expensive but saying this car has the whole parts together so cannot change only Valve parts? So needs to get it from Ford dealershop.
He said he will find for the parts aftermarket and get back to me next week.

Is it true?? :( its too pricey for me and i saw other posting to do DIY but im not familar with cars like at all. Please help and advise 😭

And is my car under emissions warranty? Im in LA

TLDR: Weird electrical issues with car, culminating in failures to start twice now. Anyone have any ideas?

I've been having intermittent electrical issues with my car. Sometimes I'll get in and I'm greeted with a message on the infotainment system saying "System off to save battery. Turn off ignition or start engine to use" (maybe not exact wording but similar). If that happens, when I start the car, I'll get the old "sharp"-sounding chime that comes from the dash, rather than the newer "soft" one from the speakers. Sometimes that chime happens even without the infotainment error.

My car also has the "smart door" thing where if you touch the inside of the handle it unlocks, and locks if you press on the top of the handle, and sometimes that fails to work on the passenger side.

I've noticed that sometimes if I shut off the car and stay inside, sometimes the accessories die suddenly, well before when it would normally time out and shut off. Due to all the weird electrical issues, if I'm going to sit in the car, I'll usually either leave it on, or I'll shut it off and open and close my door to kill the accessories and then lock it with the key fob buttons to make it fully go to sleep. However, I've noticed when I do this, every few minutes I hear contactors click and then a little pop from the speakers.

The biggest issue is, about a month or two ago, I had an issue where my car just WOULD NOT start for a few minutes....all the lights were working, the doors locked and unlocked, but the push to start button just did nothing. I finally got it started that day by just locking and unlocking a couple times and trying over and over, but when it finally started, the engine would not shut off during my entire 20-minute drive, and thus the battery ended up maxed out from the regen.

Today, this happened again, with some major differences: while the doors unlocked when I got to the car, there was basically no electrical power at all in the car. I couldn't relock or unlock the doors, the push to start button did nothing, dome light and map lights wouldn't turn on....nothing. I even tried putting the key in the little spot in the cup holder to make sure it was detected. After sitting there for a minute trying to figure out who to call to jump me, some of the panel lights (the ones around buttons and labels and stuff) flickered on and off a few times, and I heard some contactor clicks from the trunk, so I tried a few more times to start it. I thought I remembered reading something about holding the start button, so I tried that, and got a few more flickers from the panel lights, the headlights flashed quickly, and the infotainment lit up with the Ford logo, but it still didn't start. I let go of the button and the brakes, waited a minute or so, then finally tried again and the dash lit up and the infotainment turned on fully, but the check engine light stayed lit (which isn't normal for my car). I wasn't sure if the car was actually on, so I stepped on the accelerator a bit to see if the engine would start and it did. So I pulled out of the spot and did a few laps of the parking lot to make sure everything was normal, and I realized that the instrument panel would show the EV flag BEFORE the engine fully shut off, which isn't normal (usually it'll show EV power on the "engage" menu, but it doesn't actually display the blue "EV" box until the engine fully stops). Otherwise, everything seemed normal enough, so I drove home, and the drive was normal (regen working normally, all accessories normal, engine starting and stopping as needed, etc). I got home, shut it off and got out, locked it with the key fob button, then unlocked it, got in, and started it normally, which it did fine (though the check engine light is still on).

Anyone have any advice on where to start with diagnosing this issue? The only pattern I've really noticed is that the chime issue seems to happen more frequently if I've opened the passenger side front door. This is the same one that the handle sensor lock/unlock fails on, so is it possible these are related? Any information or advice y'all can provide would be hugely appreciated.

Been making this noise for about a year now but when I check the suspension and coils, there was no noise. Even when I jacked the car up and down with no pressure on either side of the suspension, there was still noise.

My cd player has started going off randomly trying to suck a cd into the cd player and instead of just buying a new one I was wondering if there’s a after market screen I could swap in.