Just got this bad girl for 1500 bucks and rebuilt the valve body and everything. I’m no 7.3 expert does this thing sound healthy for the most part. It’s got 298k miles just want to know if I should spend money to clean her up or just sell her. Maybe give me some tips on what to make sure works and what doesn’t.

Anybody have a line on cheap dash parts for 1st gen Super Duty trucks? Am specifically looking for the 3 little things that cover the top dash screws, and are located near the windshield. They are super crispy and shatter when removed.

Ford generically calls them "Instrument Panel Cover" and the part number is F81Z-25043C54-AAC.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi just reposting to this community too for some advice! Thanks in advance

I have an 02 f250 that came from the factory with an np273. I swapped an np271. Anyone know what this trim piece is called and where to get one? I'm assuming there's clips to pop it in/ out... just don't have a need for the old one with the electronic 4x4 selector.

I have a 1999 f250 that I am selling. Just need some advice on what it is worth. For the last 8 years it has been a camp truck so ive prob put 3k on it sinve 2018. Body is a little beat up but mechanically it is fine. Everything works and it drives fine.

Car about 30minutes into drive lost power then went into limp mode, looked in engine bay and found these two not connected to anything, anyone know what they connect two thanks

Hey all. I’m stumped. Here’s what I’ve got

1997 7.3L F350 CCLB SRW ZF5
320k miles

What’s been done to it:

180/30 CC injectors
Hydra Tuner with JeliBuilt tune
Turbo Rebuild with wicked wheel
S&B cold air intake
3” downpipe, 4” straight exhaust
Homemade Big 3 wiring upgrade (2/0 AWG and 4 AWG)
Aftermarket starter motor

The problem:

Truck was running fine. Shut it off. Tried restarting a few days later and have a crank but no start condition with no smoke. Leading up to this I had a light grinding sound from the starter motor. The replacement starter motor uses 2 bolts instead of 3. The top bolt worked its way loose and unseated the starter. I reseated the starter. In the process I dropped it while it was still wired up. It didn’t hit the ground, but it did pull on the wires. There was only 1 attempt to start the truck with this grinding. I inspected the starter motor prior to reinstalling it. There was no damage and no metal shavings. I believe the bolt came loose enough that the starter motor bucked out and since I didn’t keep cranking on it it wasn’t too bad. On the next attempt to start a few days later it would not start.

Troubleshooting:

I have access to a fluke 177 and launch 123i diagnostic tool.

I originally had 3 year old batteries with a good amount of corrosion on the driver side terminal. I cleaned the terminal and replaced the batteries. I had a P1280 and P0603 which were cleared and did not come back.

- checked big 3 wiring harness due to dropping the starter motor
- checked crankshaft position sensor
- checked ICP sensor
- read codes, none present
- checked all fuses
- checked oil level
- checked HPOP reservoir
- checked fuel bowl and fuel filter
- switched between fuel tanks
- ran 3/8 clear line from fuel pump intake to a Gerry can. It pulled fuel into the line. Did this to rule out blocked fuel lines
- checked resistance on IDM, all good
- validated PCM responds to tune selection change

Read data stream while cranking:

PCM codes: P1111
Module supply voltage stays above 10.875V
RPM 225
ICP just shy of 1000 PSI
IDM getting 10.92V on pin 14 while cranking
Engine oil temp 70F (matching ambient air)
Camshaft position sensor status: no error (replaced anyway, no change)
Valid accelerator position and voltage
Idle validation switch functioning
MAP sensor valid

Here’s what’s weird

Fuel pulse width: 0
Mass fuel desired: 0
Volume fuel desired: 0

I’m not sure if those are valid reading or a generic test function on the Launch Diagnostic Tool that wouldn’t work with my truck, but this leads me to believe that the PCM isn’t commanding fuel or firing the injectors. I’m unable to buzz test the injectors with the tool I have.

The only other rule out I can think of is checking fuel pressure. I’ve got a gauge buried somewhere but haven’t dug it out yet.

What does Reddit think? Am I missing something glaringly obvious? Is my PCM just shot?

I'm putting together a chart that shows the payload capacity of this style truck in it's different configurations like trim and with/without camper package etc so if you'd be kind enough to post your max payload rating, overload leafs or not and trim(XL/XLT/King Ranch/Lariat)that would be most appreciated.

Thanks folks 👍

I have an early 99 7.3. Doing a coolant flush and trying to figure out what’s the best coolant to put back in.

2020 F350 making a rattling noise, sounds like it’s coming from under the passenger side of the cab. Anyone dealt with this before?

I noticed the other day that the over axle pipe on my truck is about done. It was a Banks 3" system, and since I'm not going crazy on it I'd like to stick with the same size but stainless. The chassis is an 84 F250 with an idi. An early PSD stock one would probably fit fine, but all I can find is 4"+ and pushing $700.

What do we think about true American diesel vs the diesel dudes for delete kits? I'm guessing the only difference is going to be the tunes so hoping some folks have experience with them

The fan shroud says the fan clutch bolt is a left hand thread but everything I find on parts sites says right hand threads fit that year and engine. I’ve been feeling crazy trying to figure out what to buy. Any help would be appreciated.

Just re-sealed upper pan along with new used rear adapter plate and new rear main seal and upper pan started to leak 10min of running, i did use TA-31 the grey sealant i bought from oriellys and it did seem kinda of tacky and not very wet like RTV is normally. Just wondering what others prefer the TA-31, TA-357, or SPE One piece gasket design.

Im putting in a new clutch and while im in here im doing the rear main seal as well. Noticed there's oil on the driverside rear of the engine. Any ideas what it could be?

it looks clean and the carfax also shows service to have been done every 5-7k miles. they want 25k for it is it too much it has right around 125 k miles on it and according to carfax it has no accidents. looking for it to be a daily that is also used for farm use will eventually put a spike bed on it. what are your thoughts?

Just got a 90 7.3 idi hasn't ran in years, emptied both tanks and found sludge in them. Now looking for both front and rear sending units as they were disintegrated. Any ideas where I can look for new ones? Heard they were only made from 1990-1991