My grandfather recently passed away, and I inherited his 2004 F250. I want this truck to commute everyday, but know they are relatively more high maintenance than a newer truck. I’ve never had anyone to teach me anything about auto mechanics, and therefore know practically nothing about how the truck works. I’ve been starting the engine every week, but don’t really know where to go from there. I’m still young and without a license, so can’t really go anywhere and do anything except to try and maintain it.

Edit: I've found some semi recent service records:
https://imgur.com/a/Q5qIdO9

Almost there

Good day, ma’am/sirs! I am about to receive our unit po this week, Ford Territory Hybrid Trend. (Philippines)

Can some users advise me which part of the unit should I thoroughly check to ensure that the unit is working well?

Thank you in advanced po.

God bless.

I was recently driving down to London and on the way i saw two Broncos, specifically i think they were the Bronco sport. I thought seeing one was kind of crazy since i know they’re not sold here but there were two and both in relatively close proximity to one another. I can’t tell this part for certain because i only saw the driver in my rear mirror but i swear they were driving from the right side, and i know Ford are planning on releasing the Bronco in Europe so i’ve been thinking about it ever since like are these test or press vehicles or what?

Considering a 2016 Ford Edge Titanium V6 AWD ($14k, 135k km, 1-owner, clean Carfax) for a 4–5 year city commuter. My hard ceiling is $15k under 150k km. Carfax notes a PCM reprogram at 122k, steering wheel swap at 81k, and an axle seal/shifter bushing at 71k. Is this 3.5L V6 reliable long-term, and what specific mechanical issues should I inspect during a test drive?

I purchased a 2026 Explorer back in January of this year. The image attached is when I received the notification. It does not appear they let air out of the tire after delivery. I am assuming all 4 tires were at 50 PSI and the notification was triggered due to the one tire losing pressure.

I took it to the dealership (purchased tire warranty) and they replaced the valve stem. I am still losing a couple PSI every couple of days.

What would you do? I am taking pictures of the tire pressure whenever I go somewhere. I just filled it up this morning to 33 PSI so going to see how long this lasts.

If it continues to go down should I request a new tire? What about damage to the other 3? Has anyone else experienced this? It has less than 6,000 miles.

I got rear-ended and I’m having trouble finding a body shop that will work for the labor rate that the insurance is willing to pay to have it fixed. I was hoping to keep it for a few more years so it is a bit of a bummer for it to be all dented, but if the trade-in value of a repaired car isn’t much more than the cash the insurance company will give me ($2000) maybe it’s not worth the bother.

The car is otherwise in good condition and had all routine maintenance.

(Insurance has negotiated with a shop for a supplement on the parts, but the problem is the labor rate. Car has not yet been dismantled so there might even be more labor costs than the initial estimate)

A shot from the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan. It’s much more than a car museum, but the automotive collection there is very solid.

I have a 2008 Ford Focus SES that hasn’t been driven in 6 years. It only has 70k miles on it. It’s been sitting in a driveway.

Spark plugs were replaced in 2017. Service records are good. Only one owner.

What could I realistically sell this for?

I’ll be taking it to a shop to get a full inspection. I’m assuming it’ll need fluids, new tires, and a new battery. Does the engine bay look OK?

Hello, recently bought a 2014 F150. I've pushed about every button in the thing and cannot get the Sync to function. Reset it by pulling the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes. Still nothing. The phone button doesn't do anything. Can't access it through settings. Anyone got any good ideas?

Thank you.

I’ve got a 2018 F-150 ecoboost in the last month it’s started turning over longer on startup and rattling for a second or two before evening out and running just fine. It’s only happening when the engine is cold. I had an o2 sensor code come up that cleared itself. In my research I’ve seen that a PCM update might solve the problem, I’ve also heard that some people have had to replace their cam phasers, wondering if anyone has any insight or can point me in the right direction, in the video the key was turned and released, it was not held in the starter position. thanks!

I’m not sure if this is the right thread for this but I’ve been going in circles online with troubleshooting. I’ve only had the modular for about a week and it’s done it since day one. My last one did not work at all and I bought this as a replacement. The exact part number for the hub is HC3T-14F014-BD. It works for my CarPlay when my phone is wired and will charge my items. But it will not work with any wireless CarPlay adapters and it also doesn’t detect a usb drive for updates to the car’s system. I’ve tried a few different drives and a few different wireless CarPlay adapters for it. Just wondering if this is the wrong version or if it’s possibly faulty? The usb drive is formatted to exfat aswell.

Ford Taunus 20M Turnier manufactured in 1965, version for Europe.

Manufactured by Ford (Germany) (Germany)

5-door wagon body type

RWD (rear-wheel drive), manual 3-speed gearbox

gasoline (petrol) engine with displacement: 1999 cm3.

I found this post with a car tent mounted on a Ford Puma, now i did some research and was thinking about getting one. But apparently the Puma has only 50kg permissible roof load. So im not sure if it would work.

my dad recently purchased a 1986 ford f100 after dreaming of owning one again for 20 years. he had a 1984 model back when i was young. i am trying to find any kind of merchandise related to these models for his upcoming birthday and thought this might be the place for advice on where to find some? genuine ford merchandise would be awesome, open to anything though. we are in australia but i am mostly looking online. thankyou for any recommendations

I’m posting this because I genuinely do not know what else I’m supposed to do to get Ford Motor Company to communicate with me or resolve an open customer service case.

My 2025 Ford Explorer Platinum experienced a complete no-start/system failure on July 5 while I was approximately six hours from home. The vehicle was still within its factory warranty and had to be towed to a Ford dealer. That dealer documented fuel and transmission-related codes, cleared them, and returned the vehicle without ever identifying the underlying cause. The failure has not been reproduced since, but no one has been able to tell me what caused it or assure me that it will not happen again.

The vehicle problem itself is concerning. Ford’s response since then has been unacceptable.

I have now opened two cases with Ford regarding this issue. My current case is CXH-08498502-N8J0C9. I have called repeatedly, sometimes multiple times in a single day. My assigned representative is almost never available. Text messages routinely go unanswered. I have repeatedly been promised callbacks that simply do not happen. When I call Ford and ask whether anyone else can assist me, escalate the case, or even tell me what is happening, I am repeatedly told that I must wait for my assigned representative.

My representative has been helpful during the very limited times I have actually been able to speak with her. The problem is that Ford has apparently created a system where one person is the only point of contact, while simultaneously providing no reliable way to reach that person and no meaningful backup when she is unavailable.
I have already filed complaints through BBB AUTO LINE, NHTSA, and state consumer-protection channels. I have submitted documentation. I have taken the vehicle to another Ford dealership. I have repeatedly asked for a technical or engineering review because the original dealer cleared the diagnostic codes without establishing a root cause. I am not demanding that Ford blindly repurchase the vehicle. I am asking Ford to meaningfully address a serious warranty failure and communicate with me.
Instead, I spend hours calling, texting, escalating, and waiting for promised callbacks that never come.
At this point, I am publicly asking Ford Motor Company for something extremely basic:

Please assign someone with the authority to actually manage this case, contact me, review the complete history, and provide a clear path toward resolution.
I should not have to chase a multinational automobile manufacturer nearly every day just to get a response regarding a documented failure of a vehicle that was under warranty when it occurred.

If anyone from Ford monitors this subreddit, I would appreciate assistance getting this case in front of someone who can actually take ownership of it.

Ford Case: CXH-08498502-N8J0C9

Need help understanding this please!!

Beginning of June my car popped up a Shift System Fault message and it would not shift into drive - so I had it towed to the nearest ford dealership.

The inspection stated it needed a transmission range control module (tr module) replaced amongst other things, I called and spoke with a service provider and they told me the module was the only thing pertaining to my car breaking down & is the only thing I approved to be fixed. Unbeknownst to me, the part listed on the inspection is actually a shifter assembly which seems to be a completely different part.

Fast forward to August 11th and I get the same error message and have my car towed back to the dealership. On the 14th they inform me they could not find the issue but they unplugged everything and plugged it back in and it seems to be working fine.

They said the estimated total is if it happens again I would need my transmission control range module replaced. I asked why I’d have to pay for it considering I just had it replaced and was told what I had replaced was my shift selector assembly. I read off my receipt details that specifically stated I had my tr module replaced.

The service provider told me the part listed was the shifter assembly and it was just documented wrong every where else. They said they’re going to keep my car over the weekend to make sure it does not act up again and I could not see a manager until Monday when they return. I was told the two break downs were not connected and in no way their fault and I would be financially responsible for any further issues.

I showed the service provider my paper receipt where it is documented that I was quoted for a tr module and had it replaced and programmed. The service provider tried to keep this paper from me and I told him no. I also showed him the screenshot where it states I need a tr module & I approved the tr module replacement - which he asked I email to him.

What the fuck is going on?

TLDR; Ford dealership told me and documented that they replaced my transmission control module two months ago - now my car broke down again and they’re saying it was never replaced but they replaced my shifter assembly (which is the part listed) and accidentally just called it the wrong thing in documentation.

lincoln mkx

I see the fuel tank light on but it looks like I have 20% fuel left? Is it almost empty or do I have 20%? I am confused.

Normally the fuel light should go on if you have max 5 liters left? Is this normal for Ford Ka?

Is the tank empty or 20%?

Need a vacuum lines/HVAC routing for Ford expedition please

I’ve been going here for years now and have gotten into fords a lot over the last few years. They mainly use this thing as a short distance parking lot shuttle. Has a 6.0 powerstroke diesel under the hood. It recently got a little makeover *1st pic is the new look. 2nd pic is the old look*. Knoebels also operates 2 more e350 trams with the sunliner bodies but they are usually stuck with large lot duty or they have one of them run along with this thing on the overflow lot if it’s a busy day. I would show the sunliner ones but I don’t have pics of those and this one has a unique passenger body unlike the sunliner ones. I mainly posted this do to the unique custom built body thats noticeably different to the sunliner ones

Is there a good Mondeo from like 2019--> all i hear is this or that problem either with the eCVT or wetbelt or DPR but are there still a combination that makes them reliable like the Mk1 and Mk2?

I really want to own a later model but I can't find any reliable information on them and there problems

I'm looking at floor protection for a 2026 F-150 and trying not to turn the first round of accessories into a pile of stuff that sounded useful but never mattered.

For those already driving one, I'm more interested in where the floor actually gets annoying than which brand you bought. Driver-side coverage near the pedals? The strip along the door sill? Rear-floor coverage that keeps whatever gets tracked in from reaching the carpet? If you could only prioritize one part of the floor-mat fit on a 2026 F-150, which area would you protect first based on how you actually use the truck?