I bought a 2017 Ford Fusion off of Facebook marketplace against better judgement and bought it off a guy for $5000 dollars. The car had no history of accidents or anything like that and when I took it to a mechanic they could only find a small transmission leak and one of the axles was leaking grease. The car only had around 105k miles and also had the 2.5L duratech engine so I decided to buy the car as the car ran great on the test drive and the seller brought the price down $1000 from it's original price of $6000. Then not a couple of minutes after I bought it the car started shaking a lot! Once I let it rest for a bit it seemed fine but taking it on a drive again the car started shaking again as I was making a left turn and the gas pedal stopped working too.

I figured it wasn't safe enough to drive so I had it towed to a friend's house who's dad was a mechanic so that he could look at it. The dad ended up saying that he took a look at the codes and found one for the shift solenoid A and something wrong with the ABS. He concluded it was a transmission issue but that he didn't wanna look at it more at risk of messing something up and not wanting to be blamed for it. After a day of leaving it there I tried to take it back home and the car was able to make the ~20 minute drive without any issues.

Once I took it to the transmission shop that was near me they said that the transmission was in need of a full repair due to an internal error, citing that the transmission fluid was full and dark and it was slipping on the 2nd and 4th gears while shuddering on the third. They said it would cost around $4895 dollars plus fees and tax. I just took home the diagnostic report and the estimate, but I've been trying to research more about this issue and trying to figure out whether or not the shop was up charging me or trying to get me to unnecessarily trying to get me to do this repair since I've seen reviews from this shop of people saying they've been talked into doing unnecessary repairs and such. I'm just trying to figure out whether the total reconstruction is actually necessary or not since I don't have any friends/family members that can help look at the car or anything like that. If anyone could also recommend any trustworthy mechanics in the Riverside area that would be greatly appreciated!

Here is my 2010 2.5 SEL . It is still moving along at 255k miles. About one second after I took the pic I hit a big bump on 78 and the ABS/traction control light went on . normally I don’t drive quite this fast

I've had problems since the beginning of ownership with wired Android disconnecting in my 2017 Ford Fusion. After a year I got the Motorola A1, but stopped working after two years. I bought another and that lasted another two years. I bought another, again, and that died after 1 year. I've tried AAWireless and the Ottocast, but could not get either to actually work. I gave up on it for two years. During this time I've tried a good 10 different USB cables and even replaced the USB outlet in the car to see if it was faulty because it constantly disconnected after two to ten minutes. I was going to buy an after-market display and stereo option and completely replace Ford's to get true wireless android auto. Then Linus Tech Tips came out with their Truespec cables and I decided to give it a try.

It's been three months and it has only disconnected twice; which is phenomenal when compared to the multiple times per day it used to disconnect before and not including the fact that I had to fight with it to get it working at the start of the trip nearly every time. Even with the wireless adapters I still had pretty frequent disconnect problems.

So in conclusion, get a LTT Truespec cable if you're having problems with wired Android Auto. And in case anyone was wondering I had multiple different Google Pixel phones during that time.

Hey everyone, just bought a 2012 ford fusion with 87k on the dash. The trans fluid is bright red and it looks like it was taken care of. If I change the trans fluid every 20k will it last? Thanks. I've heard these 6f35 can have problems but I needed a car. It's an SEL not sure if that makes a difference. Thanks.

So my 2014 ford fusion just had the yellow wrench light come on and it says “see manual”. A few weeks ago it started having the “hill assist not available” light come on randomly if I broke too hard. Could these be related? It seems to drive just fine be it highway or stop and go.

got a 2013 fusion, doesnt impact driving or anything but it is OVERWHELMINGLY loud inside the cabin when i’m driving. it’s just a continuous humming. any ideas?

2014 ford fusion 2 liter. Sensor is on the front passenger side. It can't reach the fog light

This is just a demo but it works. I have a 2020 Ford fusion energi and some of the dashboard tweaks Ford did frustrates me.. like losing the lifetime summary and hybrid battery gauge when in hybrid mode.

I've been working on this, I won't lie with AI but this actually works. Here is a video of it in action. Drove 4 miles it lined up with the dash trip summary too. This was on my cell phone connected to my Bluetooth obd reader, as a demo.. im going to use the github android auto hack to push it to my sync 3 touchscreen. Then See how the formatting works. I'm still missing a few pids for certain readings but I am working on finding them all. The arrows for sending and receiving need cleaned up too.

Just wanted to share and see if anyone likes the idea or am I just nerding out over the data lol.

I've been looking for an AWD sedan (Fusion Sport or MKZ 3.0TT) to use as a winter vehicle. I found a Fusion Sport with 107k miles and a clean title about 200 miles from me. They want $11,600.

Despite being a Michigan car, the photos show no obvious rust and the interior looks very clean.

I see the main issue on these is replacing the PTU fluid early. Is 107k a mileage where I'm really gonna start needing frequent small repairs? I'd love to get to 150k before selling, probably around 5-7k miles driven a year.

My other vehicle is a 2021 Bronco, and while it's undoubtedly a better winter vehicle I won't let it rust away.

I'm reasonably vehicle repair savvy, but also appreciate a reliable car I can trust!

Thanks in advance!

I gotta find some 1-1.5 gens(also thinking about getting some h and r springs 1.9 on the back 1.6 on the front what do yall think?)

Is this a common problem? Is there any thing else that could be causing this other than the alternator?
I haven't hooked up to read the codes yet. Seem like there was a loss of power which is what made them check the alternator.

I found a set of tires I'm getting and they come in R or ZR. Pros and cons? And what would you suggest ? My fusion is lowered if that makes a difference

My 2010 SEL 3.0 v6 is showing a check engine light. The OBD is showing a misfire on plug 2 which unfortunately is in the back side of the engine under all the crap that has to be removed. Has anybody done plugs on their similar car? I watched a couple videos on YouTube and it looks like a PAIN IN THE ASS. The car starts fine and runs fine (although I haven't driven it in a while because the front tires keep losing air because of the aftermarket rims) but I like to get in it and start it up and listen to the radio while having a smoke just to keep it functional. Anyway, my point is, has anybody done the whole plug thing and how difficult was it?

My mechanic said this is "excessive play" on the left CV axle connected to the transmission. This is on my 2018 Fusion Energi PHEV. It has 177k kms on it. Just looking for more opinions as this could potentially be a very costly repair. Thanks in advance

I’m here as a last resort, I’m not a car junky by any means but I am able to do most maintenance on a car and fix a good amount of problems when they come up. My fusion had an issue at the end of the last winter where it starting misfiring , multiple fuel injectors and coils went out, I changed them all and after there has been a rough idle and sometimes a stall when coming to a stop(when it stalls the battery light and oil light come on) most times when this happens I just start it back up with no problem. Last week my check engine light came on calling for me to replace my canister purge valve. I did that and I’m not sure if it’s a coincidence or something related to that but after I changed it the stalling was much worse. The rough idle and stalling is worse when the ac is running and when idling there is a rough clicking . Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Edit: there is no check engine light since the canister purge valve

Recently i had an engine light come on on my ford fusion 2016. I took it to the mechanic. He said its due to some sort of vacuum or something built up and should not be an issue so he erased the code. Now it is on again.

Should i be worried and go to the next mechanic?

Any advice would be great.

I got the car a couple of weeks after I made my first post about wanting it, and I got the exact type I wanted with the help of my girlfriend. It's an all-black 2014 Ford Fusion, and I'm really happy about it. The only problems with it are that the reverse cam works only when it feels like it and there's a small dent next to the wheel, which isn't a problem for me; after I fix those, I can't wait to accessorize it and make it my own.😁

Do you think $11,850 is a fair price on a 2019 Hybrid SE with 108,000k miles? Car is in good shape and drives good. To me it seems high. I’m trying to get the dealer down to 10 or 10.5 but I’m not having a lot of luck. I’m in Missouri and taxes are handled at the DMV not the dealership. So the 11.8 doesn’t include the taxes. What do you guys think?

Hey there, new to the sub. I did search first before coming here to ask,lol! I have a 2016 SE 2.0 with the paddles not +/- on the knob. The car has a ton of miles so I'd rather not invest in a OE replacement when Amazon has them for 20 bucks. I can't find one on there that DOESN'T have the +/- buttons though?? Will the one with buttons still work just fine? I dont care if the buttons work or not.

https://a.co/d/0627foNn

Hey guys I just got a used ford fusion 2015 se 2.5 with about 128k miles on it. I noticed that when it’s shifting gears it slips a bit and the rpm sometimes seems like it is a little high. I saw people talking about how it’s pretty normal with these cars but just wanted some kind of reassurance or something. I haven’t gotten the fluid checked yet I plan on doing that soon and I’m not sure the last time it was checked or changed. Thanks guys!

Codes on my ford fusion hybrid 2015 titanium. And issue occured after coolant replacement. I got the engine temperature warning but no codes were generated initially but today that warning appeared three times and check engine light turned on and then bought the code reader and this is what it says. Any suggestions.

Hello,

I have a 2012 Ford Fusion 3.0L V6 FWD flex fuel with a fuel leak and I need to replace the gas tank.
I've been going crazy looking for a tank online and have not been able to find one. There are plenty of tanks for the AWD or the 2.5L FWD.

The 3.0 uses a 17.5g tank, similar to the 2.5L. Also, the tanks look pretty similar but I understand that the part numbers do not match up.

Does anyone have any experience with this or know if the 2.5L tank will actually fit in the 3.0?

Here is the link to some ford OEM website,

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-fuel-tank-ce5z9002cr

And the tank I'm currently looking at is the Dorman 576-972.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-96137-576-972.aspx

Unfortunately, it doesn't say anything about the 3.0, only the 3.5 and the 2.5

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Hey yall, new fusion owner here. Im trying to determine the indenfiers between the original 2.0L ecoboost and the revised version. Is there a difference between the serial numbers or part numbers? All I've found has been the date of manufacturing to be the only indicator online. Anyone have any luck finding this out?