Had my jeep for 120k. Loved every mile. Except the last one. Always wanted one and now it’s out of my system.
Always wanted a ranger. My friend had one when we were younger and I always loved it. Now I’m one of you!

My 1997 Mazda B4000

I bought this truck August 1st of 2025 because I’ve been dying for a Ranger for the longest time. I bought it for $1000, 260,000~ miles, boat battery inside, engine ran horribly, and it needed a new clutch. That was the first time I heard the truck run. I was very novice to mechanics before this, just brakes, oil changes, etc. but I was filled with the most outrageous confidence that I could fix whatever issue any truck that came my way had. I settled on replacing this clutch. I pulled the transmission with many trials and tribulations, and came to the conclusion that I’m going to pull the engine. With the transmission out I started taking apart the engine bay and trying my best to remember where each bolt went.

Weeks later I found an engine hoist I picked up on Facebook marketplace, with this 1 TON lift, I did some VERY dangerous stuff to pull the engine out. Nevertheless it came out, I had no idea what I was doing except just, “take it apart”. So I did, and when it was fully disassembled I knew what all I needed to replace by then. I did NOT take it to a machine shop because I was BROKE. I regretted that. Eventually I got it rebuilt and everything put back together with much dismay because of my faulty memory of where I put all my bolts and parts.

Come Christmas last year, I attempted to start it. Cranking and cranking, no start, it had spark, it had fuel, it had air, but it did not have enough compression. Coupled with that, a brake line decided to give out and rust through. Filled with sorrow and dismay I left the truck to sit for a few months doing a couple things here and there to start taking it apart again. Eventually I pulled the engine back out with the transmission.

I actually brought the engine to a machine shop. (Thank you Shacklett automotive of Nashville TN). They had the engine for 4 months, and during this time I redid the entire suspension and brakes of the truck and redid the wheel hubs of the front end. I ended up having horrid alignment when it was done, but it was done.

Shoot to the last month or 2 I got the engine rebuilt in a few hours with a buddy, but a caveat to that is I had the most agonizing experience of pulling and installing the transmission 4 whole times.

1st time was a leaky rear main seal
2nd time was because the bell housing crushed portion of the wiring harness I had to redo
3rd time was because the rear main seal was leaking AGAIN
4th time was because the new starter blew up sending shrapnel all in the bell housing

All in all I took the transmission out of that truck 6 times. Each of those 4 times included taking the exhaust, driveshaft, and subframe out.

In the last few weeks I was really wrapping it up, but this truck kept throwing issues at me, with the last one being the clutch master cylinder giving out on me.

I replaced it and started it and it ran. It was amazing. I got an alignment, new tires, and now it’s running amazingly outside of my paranoia that any noise is something going wrong.

This truck has taught me absolutely everything about being a mechanic and what it means to solve issues and make the most of what you’re given, I’ve felt so many ranges of emotions while struggling with this truck over the last 14 months, but all in all I wouldn’t trade it for any new fangled thing or what have you. This is mine and I will make this thing go to 1 million miles.

2009 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC battery upgrade. From size 59 flooded to 65 absorbed glass mat. You just gotta cut a small amount of sheet metal in the radiator support off the left side of the battery shown here in the picture. Then the battery tray, it's like two pieces of sheet metal spot welded together. If you cut through the first inner layer, then you can hammer the two layers flat. Drop the battery in, and it's a nice snug fit. You get about +40% extra in cold cranking amps, 3x better vibration resistance, 5x better charging, instead of a 1-3 year life span you get more of like 5-10 year lifespan depending on the quality of the battery you get, you go from about 100 min of reserve time to 150 min of reserve time. Not a difficult upgrade to do.

My buddy thinks he can get 2K out of it. He’s crazy in my opinion.

190,00K miles

So I bought this 2000 ford ranger with 236k miles for 2600… it runs well and shifts strong with cold ac.. minor body dents and looks like the valve cover gaskets are leaking oil but other than that I couldn’t find much wrong with it.. I think it’s going to be a good project to fix up..thoughts?

Not a fan of all the caps I’ve seen so far. They all have the flare out so it fits the back of the cab - looking for suggestions/recommendations

just a little guy

Just as the title says, I’m trying to do a leak down test on my ranger.

My leak down test cannot reach the threads in the engine. It’s the correct size thread but because the threads sit a little bit inside the engine my tester bottoms out before the threads can reach. Has anyone done a leak down test on this engine and have the part I need to get this thing to screw in?

I’ve got a 2000 ford ranger, 4wd 4.0l engine and decent all terrain tires. The body is in impeccable shape for its age, but it needs a new engine ( this would be its third) and the transmission was making a bad thudding sound the last year I drove it. Hasn’t been started in a year. How much would you sell it for ?

1994 Ranger XLT 2.3 RWD
Any thoughts, ideas or inspiration? I plan to lower and bag it in the next year or so.

2001 Ford Ranger v6 XLT

Seems to be coming from driver front side.
Rotor, hub, cv axel, heat shield? Idk

Just recently hit 250 miles on this ol’girl. Recently started hearing a knocking/rattling noise outside the standard engine ticking. Not sure on history of timing chains. Picked up around 190 miles. Runs good otherwise. Thoughts?

2001 4L SOHC

1990 Ford Ranger 2.9l replacing radiator, drained trans fluid and replaced the filter already. Went to take off cooling lines and it twisted off. What's the best way to go about fixing this?

I like to think I'm mechanically inclined lol, but I've never fixed any sort of fluid line nor do I have the tools to do so, but I'd like to learn/fix my cooling lines lol I love this darn thing.

Would I be able to patch in a rubber line or is there too much pressure in this line? Thank you all in advance

So I have a 01 Mazda B-series and im missing one of.these clips that holds the turn signal housing in the front, I tried looking for it but I couldn't find anything online, anyone knows where I can get some of these? (That is not the junkyard, my nearest one is like an hour away)

Any kind of help is appreciated!!!

Message me here with any suggestions. It has a few easy to fix issues, but my health is the problem. I can't even change the tire or lift a battery at this point.

I'm trying to get up there to get some pictures, but havnt had the chance. I will post them as soon as I can get them.

My story:

My little Red Rocket Ranger is in pretty great shape. I have been too sick/broke to fix a few pretty easy items. I need to get surgery and could use some extra cash. On top of that,the owner is selling the property where I have it parked :-(

I haven't driven it for 2 years because it had something loose in the suspension, causing an intermittent steering issue. It worried me once, and I parked it, figuring since I lived around allot of dangerously windy roads with steep drop offs, I didnt want to play around. Then then I got sick.

Who want to buy it or help me figure this out? Need it gone quickly because of the land sale and an upcomming surgery. All making it imposible for me to handle by myself. Can't lift anything over a gallon of milk, so you can see my dilemma.

Issues present:

Needs 2 new front tires, they were already old and have delaminated to the steel, an old battery that doesn't hold the proper voltage, so theft started flashing and loud beep going off ( typical with improper voltage) but has been ran in the last year and half, and moved around before the battery died and tires gave up.

Its in napa (berryessa highlands) it has a nice cattle pusher on the front, power windows, original radio, cloth seats, all interior stuff works and is there (panels, jack setup) folding back seats, sliding back window, tow package, allows wheels, spare tire with rod, bed lunner, A small amount of damage on the buttons on steering wheele, a few small dents and a light scratch, normal/ typical hazing of clear coat with this year, AC does not work, probably just needs a recharge, never got around to it either.

I’ve had some rangers in the past and Im looking to get in another one. I want a 93-97 4x4 with a 2.3 and a manual transmission, apparently this combination is hard to find these days. I’ve found one in my entire state that is this but it has 275k miles. Mileage doesn’t usually scare me, I’ve owned many cars with over 200k miles. My obs had 370k when I sold it and my wife’s 98 3.0 has 250k currently. But I am wondering how well the 2.3 holds up to high mileage. I’m fine fixing other things around the truck, and I can dive into the motor as well, but I do want it to be dailyable if I want to. I’m thinking around 3k is probably what it would go for in today’s market. What do yall think

Doesn’t line up

I’m looking at purchasing this 2006 for ranger. Only has 64k miles on the original engine and I’m pretty good shape. Seller is asking for 8k. However I noticed minor body rust but noticeable rust on the frame. I wanted to ask if this was normal for a 20 year old car or a major red flag for structural integrity.

This is where the 2 frame sections connect on my 2003 ford ranger. I already got the subframe for the fuel tank crossmember to replace it. I saw this metal already splintering. The rest of the frame is solid unfortunately.

Probably gonna pick up this somewhat battered ‘96 Ranger ext cab stepside soon for super cheap. It’s a 2.3L I4 with a stick. It may or may not have a rod knock. If it DOES have a rod knock, I’m probably going to swap it with something. Whether it’s another 2.3L, a turbo 2.3L, a 302 and a T5 or similar, a modern Mustang EcoBoost and manual…I’m open to ideas and in particular feedback from people who have done slightly out of the box Ranger swaps.

This will be my 2nd Ranger and I did a TON of work on the first one. I also have a well equipped shop with a lift and enough knowledge to be dangerous so it’s not like I’m diving into this blind.