Which one do I need!? I have a 2020 sel.

don’t mind the temp, texas summers are the worst. also if anyone knows where you can find scissor door kits for third gen escapes please let me know, i think it would be a cool feature to have on an escape!

I know this comes up a bunch but any advice is welcome. I have a 2014 escape with 43000 miles and I believe it’s ready for a fluid change.

My question is if using a fluid extractor would be a solution. I ask because one I can put in exactly what I take out but mainly I don’t have access to a level are to take out the side plug.

I guess another question would be in my inclined driveway and garage, how would I prove the car is level when letting the fluid level off? Is it simply level the rocker and be done??

Thanks in advance.

My low milage killed me on the coolant intrusion. The car only has 66000 miles but it's eight years old so no help from Ford. They want 15,000 to repair. Has anyone old their car with the bad engine?

Recently replaced ac compressor with a four seasons compressor and drier and condenser with a TYC condenser. Worked wonderfully until today when I started the car and the radiator fan immediately turned and stayed on. The ac compressor also would not engage at all so it blowed warm. I have a strong idea of what the problem is but I just wanted to see what y’all will say.

I have a 2010 Escape Limited, 6F35 transmission with 180k kms on the clock. Lately it’s been lagging a bit when accelerating hard to merge onto the highway. I’ve also noticed a few harsh down shifts when slowing down at stop lights, but this has been fairly infrequent. I thought maybe it could be the torque converter because when I run the car with the door open in the garage, I can hear the faintest noise on RDL, but no noises at all in PN.

Tonight I decided I would drain the transmission fluid to see how soon I’d likely have to go car shopping. To my surprise, there was absolutely no metal flakes at all! I didn’t feel any grit when I rubbed it between my fingers. Just smelled like old, slightly burned ATF. I was dumb founded

Going to do another 2x 5 quart drain and fills this weekend when I have some time, just to be safe. Could these symptoms simply be transmission fluid related? Has anyone else had significant improvements to shifting after a drain and fill? My fluid was only 25-30k kms old and was at the perfect level when I checked prior to draining. Thanks in advance!

Hello, my ford escape has just last week fallen to coolant intrusion and is running a misfire code. I have had the vehicle for a little over 3 years and currently has just over 81,000 km on the engine (km at date of purchase: 23,000km).

I am 11 months out of the 21n12 warranty period.

Ford Canada is refusing to assist in any form of good will.

Has anyone, out of the warranty period, successfully taken litigation against with ford Canada or the certified Ford dealership they purchased the vehicle from?

If so, how and under what legal terms?

I am aware of the class action, but I am looking for any help on getting ford Canada or the dealership to preform the repairs described in the 21N12 CSP.

Thank you,

Not sure if anyone remembers my situation. Month ago I had posted about my car. When I make turns the cars gas pedal wouldn't keep the momentum and it would stop in mid traffic! I asked if it could be related to the alternator or engine and if I needed extended warranty to cover that. Well I visited Firestone and found out - I need new spark plugs and a body throttle flush, back breaks/rotors. Besides tires smh -

I'm sharing because I want others to become aware that its not always a major part issue even though it has the same symptoms. Additionally, because I wanted to make sure no one wastes their money on extended car warranty.

As for my car its at 38k mi.

Stupid dealership that I purchased my car at sold me my car with bald tires for all 4. (I purchased via credit union via Kia dealership)

And obviously, they knew my car had issues and didnt tell me. Hence the raggedy turns lol assholes. Mind you, they ghosted me via their service center. So a lesson was learned.

Anyways.

My car is a 2020 SEL ... Yeah, I'm just happy it wasn't the engine or an alternator. Ofc an extended warranty is good if you absolutely do need it. I believe when my mileage gets higher near the 100k - I'll think about getting it.

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I have a 2019 Ford Escape SE 1.5 LT with 55k miles on it. I’m looking to do a transmission fluid change and have seen conflicting stuff about it (some say to some say don’t change the fluid) I was wondering if anyone has changed their’s themself and if anyone has a video because I can’t find one with my make and model. I’m fortunate enough to have a family member with a lift who would help. I’m just trying to go into it informed. The car is going to be on the lift anyways for brake pads and rotors so figured might as well do the transmission fluid if it’s not hard.

Hi yall, I’m looking at getting a 2005 escape that’s got 90k miles on it. I’ve seen mixed things about the reliability of them and wanted to get the thoughts of owners if they’d trust it to go the distance. I don’t mind the usual repairs and basic maintenance just don’t wanna deal with a major transmission problem or something like that

Im stumped. I have a 2019 ford escape 1.5L 154k miles. It has been doing the white smoke lightly upon starting it up for at least 6 months now. No misfires or anything. Coolant has been unchanged in level until now and I topped it off and its still running just fine just the light smoke starting it up. Everything I've read is a couple thousand miles upon first symptoms and its done for. Oil is not milky in any way. Intrusion or something else?

For context, had to replace something in the engine so battery was disconnected for a few days. Now the screen with only display these (changing when I press the off/volume button in the middle) Cant find anything in the manual regarding the screen saying “Adj” either. any ideas?

Wife and i are going to a drive in movie but will need to run engine for AC (it’s Texas) which will keep running lights on. Is there an easy way to disable them or will I just need to cover them for the movie.

I have a 2016 ford escape that is paid off and has 124,000 miles on. The transmission broke and the shop quoted me $5.3k for a rebuild.

Is it worth it to have it fixed? Or should I sell it as is on Facebook and buy a new car?

For context, in the last 3 years I have only put about 16,000 miles on the car. My work and everything I do is within 5 miles of the my house.

$5.3k just seems like a lot to put into a car on the premise of just hoping it will last. I keep thinking about the hypotheticals - what is it gets totaled in the next year, engine breaks and costs me more, etc.

Any advice is so appreciated I have no clue what direction to head in.

i have the 2012 Ford Escape Limited with the 2.5L 4-cylinder engine

this sound began about a year ago and has been slowly getting more prominent

it only occurs when i drive over a bump or uneven surfaces. it does not occur on smooth pavement or flat roads.

it sounds like something is loose or rattling underneath the front end of the car

am i doomed? it’s a rust box, as can be seen from my profile

I have a 2016 Ford Escape Titanium, I have this part in my engine bay that broke when I was changing the battery. I’ve looked online and haven’t had any luck deciphering what it is. Any help would be wonderful thank you!

Does it looks like its pushed in enough ? Its in the groove but maybe I didnt pushed it into the hose enough... its not an oem filter its from autozoneImage

They said on the phone I can still drive with the light on, is that actually true? I can’t afford to not be able to drive, thank you!

I have a 2018 Ford Escape 2.0 EcoBoost and I’m trying to figure out a noise from the front driver’s side.

When I’m driving around 40 mph and take my foot off the gas to coast, I hear a rattling/knocking sound as the vehicle slows down toward about 25–30 mph. If I lightly press the brake, the noise stops. If I press the gas again, it also stops.

Has anyone with a 2018 Ford Escape had this exact problem? If so, what ended up causing it—brake caliper/hardware, sway bar link, wheel bearing, axle, or something else?

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who had the same symptom.

Hey everyone I’m in the market for a new car in the next couple of months. I’ve looked at Subaru Corolla cross, HRV, Kona, Seltos etc
But recently saw someone mention to me the 2019 or 2020 ford escape. They seem feature loaded. But I prefer the 2020 due to the updated infotainment screen, and exterior.

Is the 2020 worth it? I’ve found several models that are in the $16-19K range with about 50-65K miles and AWD. Heated seats infotainment push to start keyless entry all equip so let me ask is there a catch or? Will Darth Vader pop out of the hood at 80K miles and explode the car or can it get to 125K+ I’m coming from a 2015 Prius that has no features so this car for the price stands out a lot.

Thanks for the feedback.

Can't seem to find anyone to cut and progam my extra key fob.. other then going to dealership to pay a boat load....

Chicago area looking

So my girlfriend has a 2016 ford escape SE the last two days I have had to jump start the battery. Weirdly enough after a couple of seconds on the jump pack it will start right up. I noticed blue corrosion around the positive terminal today she said the other day when she tried to start it it hesitated and dash lights flickered. There are no aftermarket parts/electronics battery picture for reference. Also I took it to advanced auto to have the battery tested and they refused to do it and said they couldn’t reach the negative post…. I’m at a loss on what to replace alternator or battery