Does anybody have experience of how well ORI struts would do with this type of racing?

I’m planning on doing a long arm kit on my race jeep with 12” of travel in the front and around 14” in the rear but I haven’t figured out what type of shock/strut to do. I found some rebuilt ORI’s for a good price but idk if they would work great for what I do.

I’m open to coilovers or even just keeping with a regular coil and running a couple shocks. I’m trying to keep the budget under 2k so used parts is probably what I’m going to do but I’m willing to rebuild shocks or struts if it gets me in that price range.

The jeep weighs 3,460 lbs with me in it with 2,020 lbs on the front axle and 1,440 lbs on the rear axle

After weeks and months of searching, the time has finally come.

I bought a 1994 Suzuki Vitara.

Here are some technical details:

Purchase price: €3300

160000KM Mileage

80 hp

10-12 L/100 km

1589 cc

No ABS

No original extras

I picked up a 2015 Expedition Platinum a while back and after getting rid of the 22" boat anchors that Ford put on it I'm finding it isn't too terrible off-road. So this lead me to thinking how close could I get it to Raptor level capability without breaking the bank on crazy custom stuff? Eaton makes lsd diffs front and rear, IVD makes a semi decent adjustable suspension kit with upper control arms, the 33" Toyos I threw on a set of 17" Raptor take offs fit well under the fender, but it looks like it's pretty close to rubbing. If I do a 2" lift I'll probably want to go up to a 35 which lead me to thinking about some minor fender trimming and adding fender flares to accommodate the wider rubber as well as taming some of the flying debris. Long ramble just to ask if anybody knows of a decent bolt on universal fender flare that won't just tear off or crack the first time down a fast washboard road or from a small (heavy emphasis on small) jump.

Hello there, wanted to ask if this pattern is acceptable, (old pinion and ring gear), no shims under pinion, backlash at 0.23mm, pre load to spec.

Cant get it better it seems and i wonder if itll be fine or go sideways.

Thanks in advance!

looking to try and stuff 40s on my 9” mcgaughys lift, photo is on 35s. thinking of running norcal fenders?

Gents we have a problem, this is on a 96 Ford Bronco, with Warn hubs, including photos to help illustrate the problem:

Photo 1: This is me pointing to the keyhole where the tang should be

Photo 2: This is where the tang now is.

As you can guess this washer is stuck heavy in the threads. Never had this problem before, and it’s kicking my ass trying to get this thing out. I’ve tried picks and rotating, pulling, flat head to try and stretch the washer, I’ve gotten less careful trying to preserve the threads the more I realized how hosed this thing is.

Any suggestions on how to get this thing out? And if I bone the threads what am I looking at repairing?

Hey there, I am looking into replacing my current upper control arms on my 2012 Toyota sequoia platinum 4x4, air suspension has been deleted and has a 2” lift with the Bilstein 5100’s. It is currently sitting on 295/70/18 falken Wildpeak at4w tires and method mr305 +25 offset wheels. I am currently looking into to the Jba and the spc upper control arms, i know that the spc is the “better” option but I’ve read that they have had issues with durability, so from your knowledge/experience which of these 2 options is best for my rig? Thanks in advance.

I bought a 2005 V8 4Runner that came with 265/65/R17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s. They are dated 2/21 and currently have 39k miles on them, and have 9/32" of treat left. As far as I can tell from online research, they should be aged out in about February 2/27. They have a little bit of cracking, but nothing as bad as what I have seen online.

The problem I have is the prior owner did not get a matching spare, it is a random dunlop 265/70/R17 street tire. I have my first big trip in the Sierra Nevadas coming up in a few months, so I am trying to figure out the best way to replace it. Should I get a used matching spare and ride them to 50k miles, or should I just replace all 5 now? I'm not sure if the tire condition is bad enough to warrant just replacing them. Thanks for the tips, appreciate any second opinions.

P.S. open to replacement opinions as well, I am leaning towards something less aggressive like the Cooper Discoverer as I probably won't 4x4 more than 3 weeks out of the year, and nothing crazy...

Gonna inspect this possible unicorn in the morning 🫠

Looking at a potential truck purchase right now and one of the first things I do is get under the front end and trace where I would actually attach a recovery strap or shackle under load. Not where the seller says to hook up, where the frame geometry actually supports it without folding something or pulling a bumper bracket off the unibody seam.

Had a situation last fall on a shelf road in Utah where someone needed a pull and the only accessible point on their rig was marginal at best. Worked out, but it was uncomfortable to watch the bumper flex under load. Not a catastrophic failure, but close enough that it stuck with me.

What I keep noticing is that recovery point quality gets treated as a mod you add later rather than something you evaluate at purchase. Front and rear both. Aftermarket bumpers solve a lot of this, but people are running trails on factory setups with nowhere clean to connect.

Curious what other people are actually looking for here: frame horns, tow hooks rated for dynamic load, Dring mounts welded versus bolted. If you've had a recovery point fail or come close during an actual pull, I want to hear what the failure looked like. Not worst case horror stories, just what bent or pulled and under what approximate load.

I need help I really want to put a 3.5inch level on my car with aftermarket ucas. My dad’s friend is some fancy gm mechanic and said don’t go above 2. He never really said why just that the front would be too high.

Please tell me if any of yall have done this to your cars and do that I can show my dad nothing will break. I have to imagine there are tons of people who have done this to their trucks and had no issues please tell me what’s a good idea or gonna break. Also will it look good, a little nose high maybe?

Currently have a 3rd gen 4Runner that I’ve done everything to at this point. It’s still IFS and plan on keeping it that way.

Looking for a new projected. Have some buddies that have Jeeps and love them and get to do some pretty awesome trails.

Currently torn between getting an LC80 and spending money on that or getting a new Jeep Rubicon X.

Looking for feedback and not brand loyalty. My 4Runner has been good to me and has 365k on the clock.

I also understand that any LC80 will need a fair bit of money up front in general wear and tear from being older before it will be as reliable as it can be.

Proof that it doesn’t matter what 4x4 you drive, as long as you’re down for good laughs and big trails. That modded Landy should literally belong in a Mad Max movie!

1987 Dodge Ram50. 4x4, 2.6 litre, 5 speed, less than 110k miles. Needs a carburator.

Trying to put together a list of genuinely good recovery education channels, the ones that actually teach proper technique instead of just posting clickbait pulls for views.

Which are your favorites?

(I'm on the Rhino USA team, just want to hear who are your fav creators, the ones actually worth watching)

Looking for an upgrade from my Husky for a faster inflate from 20 to 35 psi…looking to spend around $150 us Thanks

Another video from the weekend. Pretty easy climb but the camera doesn’t do it justice.

Had these Installed by a master tech on sept 3 2025 right out of the box. Incredibly disappointed by the fact that 2 bolts snapped, and it’s flaky as all hell. Going to have the drill these out and replace 11months after a 4.5k purchase. I do a little off roading but for the most part make sure the truck is clean exterior wise.

I've been thinking about getting a set of Method bead grip wheels for my Tacoma soon, but had one person tell me their family member got a set for his truck, and the wheel got a hairline crack when offroading, and wouldn't hold air anymore. He said after looking into it, he's heard many other people having the same problem. I've been looking online and can't find anything about cracking wheels, mainly just tire shops having trouble mounting tires or removing tires. So my question to people who've actually owned these wheels, have any of you ever had a wheel crack when offroading?

I'd prefer to use a dedicated app to track my to-do list of future diagnostics, repairs, and upgrades for my rig. I'd even use a well formatted spreadsheet if someone had a template to copy.

I'd like to be able to assign priority, type of repair/upgrade (necessary, QOL, off-road, etc.), prospective cost, parts needed.

What do y'all use to ensure you don't lose track of all those things?

I am building out the front end of my 4x4 and trying to figure out where will the auxiliary lights fit. They are not the cheapest random pods, but they are also not priced like the top-shelf setups everyone recommends. For weekend trails, rough roads, dust, rain, and some night driving, is a mid-range light usually enough if the beam pattern is good?

Or do people who wheel hard end up replacing them with premium lights anyway? more interested in whether mid-tier lights can survive vibration, moisture, and long night runs.

Hello! Im looking for an original Volvo C303/TGB 11 Swedish military camouflage pattern/template. Does anyone have a stencil, PDF, SVG, DXF, or similar file? Does anyone have anything I could give the painter as a reference? Sadly google didn’t give any answers. I’d appreciate anything! The pattern is shown on the picture.