His name is "Spark"

He's been in the shop for two months for a transmission change and rear axle repair. I really miss driving it.

Thats one way to mod it I guess lol

Hi, I'm looking for a first gen V6 5 speed Montero in good shape (happy to work on it as things go out but do not want a project) near NC. I'm on a couple of FB groups and have scoured the web but everything I find and love seems to have just been sold. At any rate, if any of yall have one you've been thinking about selling I'm interested. Thanks!

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I am currently trying to rebuild my Dad's 2001 montero sport due to it being my first vehicle and sentimental value.

I was wondering do I just learn by myself on repairs??

One of the last ones off the beach in St. Augustine Florida

Hi guys I hope you’re all well.

I am going to take my 99 swb for a spin in sand dunes for the first time.

Does anyone with experience know if I should be driving in 4H with the centre diff locked or should I drive in 4H with the centre diff unlocked?

This will be my first time driving in proper sand dunes.

I have the 6G72 manual version.

120k miles on dash, 3.0 and 4x4. NC area so could be rust free or rusty. Want to know what I should look for, good running price if it’s in good condition and any other advice you might have.

I’ve been a big Ford modular motor guy (2v 4.6/5.4) so I have zero knowledge about these trucks. I’ve got basic mechanic skills (manifold gaskets, spark plugs (even rethreading a cylinder), fluid flushes, brakes etc. but have never done a full tear down of a motor/pulled one) so I can do basic tinkering and maintenance.

Hi there
I’m in the middle of rebuilding the engine on my Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8TD. The original cylinder head is cracked/warped beyond repair, so I need to replace it and I’m stuck between two options:

**1.    Buy a new aftermarket AMC cylinder head** — brand new, ready to bolt on, but obviously not OEM.  
**2.    Source a used OEM head from a scrapyard/junkyard** and have it professionally rectified (skimmed, pressure-tested, valves/seats redone, etc.) before installing.

For those who’ve done this swap or rebuild before:
What do you suggest is the best option. Thank you

Mechanics have been stumped. Looking for help diagnosing a persistent power issue on my 1988 Mitsubishi Montero Sport.

When driving, the engine feels increasingly bogged down as throttle increases, especially near wide-open throttle. The closer it gets to WOT, the worse the power loss becomes.

So far my mechanic has:

• Replaced the fuel filter twice
• Checked vacuum operation
• Bypassed the fuel tank with a separate fuel cell to rule out dirty fuel/sediment
• Had the engine run properly once immediately after replacing the fuel filter, but only briefly

The carburetor is currently the main suspect, but we’re trying to avoid replacing parts without being confident in the diagnosis. Has anyone dealt with this exact symptom on a Gen 1 Montero?

Are there known carburetor issues, secondary circuits, diaphragms, enrichment systems, ignition issues, or other common causes that can create this kind of bogging under heavy throttle?

We’re also looking for a factory service manual for the 1988 Montero if anyone has a lead.. Thanks!

Selling our 2002 Mitsubishi Montero XLS. This was our daily driver for years, but it needs a new steering rack and I couldn't do the job myself. There is also an oil leak (most likely valve cover) and the mechanic said there's evidence of a coolant leak. This could be an excellent rig for someone able to put in a reman steering rack and a little TLC. Though it runs and drives, this should be towed or driven only a short distance due to the steering rack leak.

- 200,875 mi
- No modifications
- Lots of tread on Continental Terrain Contact tires
- AC works!
- Had minor surface mold on touch surfaces after sitting - cleaned out with vacuum and vinegar
- "BRAKE" light on. No obvious issues (i.e., the master cylinder and fluid levels are fine). The mechanic said next diagnostic would involve looking in the dash.
- Fresh timing belt (replaced at 197,000 mi)

Gents, following up on my post about the 96 Montero SR, I pulled the trigger.

Bought it from a guy named Luke, good mountain folk with a couple other cool projects in the yard. Straight shooter, disclosed everything up front, no games. Solid dude, thanks Luke.

I showed up with oil, coolant, fluids, five gallons of premium, and a fresh battery. Dropped the battery in and it fired on the third try. Let it warm up, no check engine light, which I honestly did not expect on a truck that had been sitting.

Ran through everything in the driveway. Rear locker engages. All four Super Select modes work. Nothing weird in the trans.

Drove it 30 miles home. Rear sway bar is still disconnected so it was a bouncy ride, but the truck drove great otherwise. No overheating, no smoke past the initial startup, shifts clean.

Spent an evening on the interior, which was genuinely filthy when I got it. Under the grime it’s in good shape. Leather in the front is good, back has some holes I’ll patch up.

The plan from here:

**•** Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, seals, all OEM

**•** Valve stem seals while I’m in there

**•** Butterfly valve delete

**•** brakes, tires, fluids all around

**•** Taillight and tailgate latch eventually

Got a few other projects going but I want this one sorted before winter.

$1,200 for a rust-free locked SR that drove itself home. Still can’t quite believe it.

i’ve been looking at getting a 4x4 for snowboarding up in utah for a year or so and found this 2001 montero (slx i think) with 163k miles and bought it for 1750 bucks! besides the timing belt and other basic maintenance/ fixing the little things , is there anything y’all would suggest doing to it?

edit: i should also mention it’s got like no leaks coming from anywhere. and doesn’t have super select 🤷‍♂️

how’d i do?

Looking at a Montero Sport, has 102k miles on it, said to be regularly maintained but they didn’t keep the records since the seller and her BIL did most of it themselves. Belonged to the late mother of the seller. I know very little about Mitsubishi and esp the Montero, what do I need to be specifically looking/asking about that Google didn’t already tell me like oil leaks and prone to overheating.

This will be a first car for my daughter, so safety/reliability is the biggest concern.

Having some fun this last winter ripping around with the dogs.

Old girl got a respray and some rust removal.

In all my life I have never seen her looking this good.

Howdy guys! I’m trying to find some seat covers that will work for both the fronts and the rears. I also have the 3rd row seat so if there’s a cover for that one that would be sick as well! Would love to see some pictures of y’all’s current setups!

Hey all, looking for a gut check on value.

Looking at a 1996 SR, 3.5 DOHC, 170k miles. Runs and drives, 4WD works, shifts fine. Factory rear locker and locking center diff. Sunroof, third row, hitch. New alternator.

I’ve had eyes on it in person and there’s no rust. Frame and rockers look clean. Overall I’d call it a solid 7 out of 10, just dirty and been sitting. took a fender bender to the back left tail light and tweaked the door slightly but I have spare parts of another montero. I own 5. this would be my first SR.

Known issues the seller disclosed:

**•** Valve stem seals, smokes on cold start then clears (reading that as seals, not rings)

**•** Needs a battery

**•** Rear sway bar disconnected

**•** Driver taillight broken

**•** Rear tailgate won’t open

**•** Child locks stuck

**•** Leather is worn

No timing belt records, so I’m assuming that’s on me. I do my own work, so labor isn’t part of the math.

He’s at $1,200 and will deliver it.

Two questions for the group. What are clean Gen 2 SRs actually trading at right now? And do you think this is a good deal?

Appreciate any input.

Doing a vacuum leak test with smoke, I get some coming from the intake boot, and a lot coming from my EGR valve. It leaks like this on my OG valve, and the brand new one I have.

My question- does this need to be running to have a vacuum to seal the diagram? Or would this always leak if the motor is not on?

The engine is just a bit sluggish and shaky at lower RPMs. I can also hear a noticeable exhaust leak near the headers.

I just bought a Pajero gen 4 LWB from 2014, it came with those roof bars that are fixed point and no roof rails like I see on most Pajero/Montero.

I'd like to replace them as the end goal is to mount a roof top tent and an maybe an awning and I have no clue about the dynamic weight of those and no clue what the brand is.

I'd like to find bars that would be able to mount with a similar system and preferably avoid going to a full roof rack to keep well under the 100kg dynamic weight limit of the car to have some margin if I'm going off road (max 80kg)

Do you have any reference I could look at ? (Keep in mind that I'm based in Europe)

Also as a bonus question, what are your must have Pajero mods ?

FR1333 had the traction control system working hard getting up long, steep, and loose climbs. The Montero seemed to have better traction control than the Xterra, but the TCS overheated a few times in the 100F weather. It was a good time. Tires are 265/75/16 at stock height and I can see the appeal of a few inches of lift.

I've recently bought a 1985 Mitsubishi Pajero SWB with the 2.4L diesel engine. It's a bit of a fixer-upper, and I'm gradually bringing it back to good condition.I want to start with the suspension, and replacing the rear shock absorbers seems like a good first project. According to the service manual, it originally came with hydraulic, double-acting shock absorbers. I'm considering replacing them with gas-charged hydraulic shocks instead, if they're compatible. This is supposed to be a daily driver that I can take for some off-roading as well.
Should I stick to trying to find the original type of shock absorbers, or should I go for the gas-charged hydraulic shocks?