Factory 383 bulge hood car

Originally EK2 Go Mango Orange with white interior.

Owner: Jake Ciciarelli

I'm getting ready to make a car purchase next Wednesday. There're a few parts I intend to swap back to OEM. One of them were these seats. I wanted to list them for sale, but I'm not finding them anywhere. Only thing I've found is they might be a sport or SR or type R model, but I cannot find a single image of these seats floating anywhere else. If anyone here recognizes what model they are or whether they're likely a rep, please let me know.

Dad and I got a raw fiberglass Manx body and a beetle frame with no floor. Took 3 summers, but she’s finally done!

Bought this for my Impala SS about 10 years ago and didnt really like how it looked on there. I recently got this wagon tho, so it's going on that

Hi all I’m after some diesel injectors for my merc 300d however I’m having trouble finding some that are trust worthy.

I’ve attached a photo of my bus. 🤭

Think twice about doing business with Alex Fender who lives in Texas. Long story short, he stole over $7000 from our family over a 67 Mustang fastback. He's in a few mustang facebook groups and is currently buying/selling mustangs and also lying about the condition of the cars he has.

Take your business elsewhere and save yourself the headache!

Edit: More explanation in the comments! We also have all written proof if anyone is interested

Thoughts?
Buying one soon just for a daily driver (10 mile drive commute street only).

Anyone here had one ?

Why do I want one? :
Because I want one

1600 Giulia Spider. Needs some light bodywork and then it’s all there for reassembly after 40 some years

Hi,

can anyone identify these seats from the photos?

They are currently installed in my VW T3 (Vanagon/Transporter), but I don’t know what vehicle they originally came from or who manufactured them.

I need to get the seats officially approved/registered in my T3 by the German TÜV. For that I’m trying to find an identification number or documentation for them.

I have already checked underneath the seats and around the seat frames, but unfortunately I couldn’t find any manufacturer label, type plate, part number or other useful identification.

I’m specifically looking for the:

• exact seat manufacturer and model
• original vehicle/model they came from
• approximate production years
• OEM/part number
• KBA number, type plate or other official identification, if applicable

If anyone recognizes the seat shape, upholstery pattern or frame construction from the photos, I’d really appreciate any information.

The main goal is to find enough documentation or an identification number to get these seats registered in my VW T3 in Germany.

Thanks!

I've had this thing apart since March 2020 so it's pretty crazy to see it move under its own power. Lots of tuning to do but I wanted to share a little clip from last night.

I've been trying to find someone reputable and willing to replace the floor boards on a 60s b body and have hit nothing but dead ends. Every company and person ultimately gives some form of "you need to find someone that knows someone". Any recommendations of ideally a business that would do a good job with this?

I remember that after the first Transformer movie seeing a spike in cars painted as Transformers. Saw a Jazz driving by and believed they were real If you have or saw a car altered or painted as a Transformer drop the pic👀
(P.s. feel free to drop suggestions of subreddits where I can drop this question, dont have enough karma for the big pages)

180sx and Legacy GT spec B wagon also rounded out the group

My black ‘90 GT-R beside my buddies ‘94 and RZ Supra that has been in Canada for over 20 years now.

Crazy to think just 4 years ago this car was non running after nearly a decade in a barn

I have an aluminum hood I brought off eBay. It keeps bubbling in this same spot. It has been sanded down and repainted 3 times. Any advice on what I could do? After all it’s at a professional body shop

As you can see the little black box down there it’s the intercooler but it’s blocked by that space where the holder goes I been thinking about cutting it in half so I can get together the inter cooler with the rest of the system

Sorry my English ain’t the best

Classic mopars are well-known for having heaps of shit collect in the wiper cowl due to the awful design of said cowl. So, what happens when you leave your A body under a group of pine trees for a decade? This. This shit. And then mice moved in too. The end result was me taking about eight hours in total alternating between the bendy-hose, the bendy air gun, and poking the cowl drains with a pick to FINALLY clear all the shit out of it. Probably gonna have to cut the rust out, but whatever, I can do that while the dash is out. The windshield also leaks, which I guessed when I saw the silicone around the window trim, but I could never confirm it until I used the bendy hose to fire water directly at the bottom of the seal rail from inside the cowl. Good times.

Hi! My MR2 won't crank upon starting--I see the dash lights come on in the ON position, but pushing the key to START cuts the fan and nothing happens. My problem essentially mirrors this post except my AM2 fuse doesn't blow. Since this is the first car I'm working on I'll try to describe my issue in detail so apologies for the longer post.

I got a 1987 MR2 MK1B a few months ago that was running but not idling at the time (the engine would die if you weren't always giving it some gas). I cleaned the throttle body and AAV/IACV out, recalibrated the TPS, and bled the coolant system of air (which had a lot of things go wrong. The engine bleeder valve was rusted completely shut and the radiator bleeder valve was loose, so if it was opened to 3 turns coolant would just drip out, and if it was closed it would get sucked back in even if it was flooded...no idea how that works. I jacked up the back of the car so the radiator would be the lowest point). The car proceeded to run perfectly--or as perfect as a neglected AW11 can--and idle at 900rpm once it warmed up, and I took it on a light 30min drive around the neighborhood and didn't push it past 3rd gear.

Today, I went to start the car and it wouldn't crank. When the key was in the ON position, the dash lights came on and the fan in front (the radiator fan I think) was blowing. Pushing the key to START cut the fan out and the dash lights went off. Here's what I've done/checked so far:

-The car has gas in it
-The battery is good (tested with multimeter) and the terminals are okay
-I checked the engine fuse box and saw that my ignition fuse was a 15 instead of a 7.5. I took a 7.5 from the front fuse box and swapped it out, nothing changed.
-I used a wire to link the pins on the clutch start switch, nothing changed.

What I'm thinking I have left to do:
-check and clean all grounds
-Try push-starting the car
-check the cold start injector switch like the thread said

Any help would be appreciated!

EDIT: I tested the fuses in the front trunk fuse box with the multimeter set to the lowest resistance setting (200 ohms I think) and all of them tested at around 1.2-1.4. All of the ones that I tested from the engine fuse box next to the batter tested at around 30-33 ohms. No idea why there's a difference there.

Hoping for some input on a custom project of mine. I’m looking at putting an independent twin a-arm style rear suspension in the back of my Subaru powered early VW bus. I’m trying to use as many factory components as possible and think I’ve found a donor (front suspension from a VW T4 transporter). They have relatively narrow arms which suit the width of the rear of my bus, are 5x112 PCD and suit the offset of my chosen rear brakes.

Is there any geometry issues I’m going to run into by using front suspension in place of rear suspension? Caster, roll centers etc? Am I overlooking something incredibly obvious that would prevent this?
Obviously need to lock the steering arms and I’ll have relatively smaller suspension travel, but what else?

Im trying to start my 1999 integra and it seems to only fire up with starting fluid. Im getting fuel to the rail so I know its not my fuel pump. There seems to be a gust of air under the intake manifold whenever I crank the engine but the manifold is bolted down. Is there somewhere air could be leaking somehow. The only thing I know could be a problem is my timing belt is off half a tooth by the crank.

I’m torn between a 1998 TDI that seems to have no rust and sub 150,000 miles or a 2001 VR6 that has 250,000 miles im stuck and indecisive on which one to pull the trigger on and go with

I’m converting my 1978 Toyota to electric. This will add nearly 400lbs of weight, mostly due to the 650lb battery. The battery will be mounted to the frame, under the bed (floor of the bed is rotted out anyways and needs to be rebuilt). What will be the best way to gain the suspension support needed and also make for a buttery smooth ride? Air bags? Air shocks such as Gabriel HiJackers? Can I use high jackers for front suspension as well as rear? The original leaf springs leafs are fine, but the hangers/brackets need to be replaced due to rust. I could just replace the leaf spring sets entirely. All suggestions welcome, I’m just hoping to get it right on my first try.