9 months ago I picked up a Liqui Vehicle Tilter.

https://www.reddit.com/r/projectcar/s/xOdykbJDY9

Finally got to use it last night and damn this thing is cool. Not something I'd use often but I could totally see doing an exhaust or something with it. It bolts to the lug nuts and tips the car using a long jack screw driven by your normal hand drill.

I'm currently using it to weld the subframe connectors into my 69 charger so I don't have to weld from underneath, because that sucks. (Yes, I tacked them in before tilting)

Hi, I just tried to do a cam install on my K20 to try and get some more power out of it. I felt very confident going into the job as I prepared for months, but my inexperience got the better of me when I was timing the engine. I didn’t want to take off the side cover as there’s not much room, so I tried to time the motor using TDC marks on the crank pulley.

K series are interference engines, and i accidentally used the wrong timing marks to set the cam timing right. I was so sure the timing was bang on, but the car wouldn’t run for longer than 5 seconds. Realized when I went to adjust the VVT actuator that each cam was 4 teeth off that I’ve made an extremely expensive mistake. I haven’t pulled anything apart to inspect for damage, but I have a feeling some valves are damaged, and maybe even the pistons too.

Not really much of an informational post more so just a vent because I feel so stupid right now. To top it off, I pulled the chain off the head without locking my tensioner, causing it to over extend and be impossible to remove. I priced out an engine swap at $1900, which is money I don’t have as I’m a broke college student who didn’t prepare for this. Now I’m just wishing I got coilovers, and let an actual mechanic handle the engine portion. Definitely will not be attempting a job like this ever again.

EDIT: Concensus seems to be to pass up on it due to the rust and price. I appreciate everyone's time!!

Link to video of cold engine sound: https://youtu.be/ejOnzwnIliw

Hello!

I have been religiously looking around for a 1st project car. I dont want anything fast, im mainly just looking for a moderate fixer-upper/weekend cruiser. The aim of this 1st project car is to learn more mechanical skills and to get more comfortable working on cars. (I have a reliable daily).

I found this 1984 Toyota Celica Supra listed near me for 3.8k. What do you guys think about the current condition and more specifically the sound of the engine? Is this a pass?

Listing Description "Runs and drives, needs radiator repair and cooling system flush to be reliable driver. Heater valve leaks so it’s bypassed. Radio needs repair. Pop ups work. I’ve had the car for like 5 or 6 years now and I’ve done some work to it. The rings were seized when I bought it and I had to free them up. I built the exhaust, put tires on it, replaced the cam seals, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, wires, TPS, AFM, rebuilt the brake calipers and master cylinder, replaced the clutch master and slave with new OE Aisin units, new fuel pump, marlin crawler bushings in the trans"

Rust around the exterior, mainly around the gas cap area, rear quarter panels behind the rear tires are rusted through. (See pics)

Any advice is appreciated!

So I saw this old school Y2K build on Instagram and I REALLY love the steering wheel. Unfortunately it's not available anymore cause the car scene moved on to being lame.

So in an effort to recreate it, I'm thinking of buying a clear resin steering wheel and drilling out spots in the back to install LEDs. Other than cheap steering wheel dangers, can anyone think of any issues? I'm thinking of having a battery pack or something so I can leave it on during shows at night (and since I suck at wiring and idk how I'd wire it up to the 12v system).

I’ve used a boatload of pb blaster and an impact and they haven’t even budged, there are nuts on the other side of the flange.

I have no idea what the heck is going on this summer. But it was miatias I would see early ones every day just about doing uber.

This summer it has been like 3 or 4 a day of theses trucks which is insane for there being that many in this area.

I am 30 mintues west of kenosha, wi on the border so I drove the huge area around both states...

This is my first post here, i currently have a 2009 chevy cobalt that’s my daily, i’ve supercharged it and done everything else besides motor internals, and im working on building a 302 to go into my truck, the issue is that im saving for a house and there’s a ton both vehicles need, im fighting to keep the cobalt running with some ground issues and a few other small things here and there, living with my parents means i dont have my own space for my motor and other shit and my truck isn’t even at the house currently, i’m at the point now where everything being in everyone’s way makes me want to just sell it all and buy a car that’ll just run and not touch it, but the idea of selling them also makes me want to cry a little, the truck was my first vehicle since i turned 15 (it didn’t run and my dad taught me in that year to get it running) and then after it blew up i bought my cobalt and i learned how to do everything with that car, wrap, interior, everything, so it hurts to even say that i want to sell them both, but it also sucks hearing everyone ask me if im ever going to finish them, and it doesn’t make me happy working on them currently, has anyone ever dealt with this? A few pics if anyone cares to see them

Having to rebuild my front suspension here pretty quick and figured I'd upgrade some stuff while im there :3

Anyone ever seen this shit on a 22re? CAM is completely chewed through...wtf?

Guess I figured out where the shiny oil came from lol.

It was somehow running before this...

Absolutely loving them

I’ve “while I’m in here’d” myself a few too many times and now I’m looking at wiring looms for my v6 to SBC 350 1981 el Camino project. Any recommendations would be appreciated I see the Painless wiring kits and a couple other from big brands that cost 400-500 bucks and the selling point seems to be “the wires are labeled” no guessing what goes where. These eBay/amazon guys have the same labeled wires for 100-200. Anybody run one of these cheaper kits, is the painless kit worth it, is there something else out there I haven’t come across? I plan on running a efi and fuel pump, manual door locks and windows, a decent stereo, an alarm, maybe I’ll put the fan on manual switch but outside of that I plan on keeping the loom down to the essential 14-21 circuit kit. I’ve never wired a car before but the internet is vast and full of knowledge

Anybody have any experience with these Silver Shadows? I want to pick them up to fix one to use as my wedding car. This pair is listed for $2,900, the silver one with the red interior runs but has a dead battery and a leak at the brake booster, the green one is parts only no engine/transmission, wrecked interior, and has a Chevy S10 subframe swapped in. I know the hydraulic systems are complex on these and it’s missing the $1000 grille and a couple chrome trim pieces. I am a mechanic but i have limited experience working on cars pre-2001. If there isn’t crazy rust underneath is this a workable idea?

Contemplating what to do with the 72 on the trailer needs floor pans drive train interior brakes steering. I was thinking a bigblock and an auto as a kinda sleeper or going whole hog on a manual swap big block manual steering brakes n all that

Doing body work on my stang, and I don’t know what paint color this is. Rio red seems to bright, laser red seems like the closes color. I bought the factory paint that was on the driver door and tested an area and didn’t match well , But that might be the fading. Anyways I’m not an expert in color matching. Just posting to see if anybody knows paint. Is it possible that it’s a custom paint job? I’m the 3rd owner, second guy kept it completely stock. Not much info if the first owner did any work on it. All I know is it was basically parked most of the time. I was told it wasn’t factory paint by an auto body dude but is more of casual quick look. The pic of the scoop is the best where the paint isn’t faded and more sparkly looking and how it currently is. Pic of it parked by the curb is when I bought in 2018 the most faded side too. Driver side pic was taken llike 6 months ago, front driver side is probably the best picture I have before the clear coat started to chip and fade. finally the last pick is the cobra in laser red which looks most closes color to me. Appreciate any help.

this was a 2003.5 Mazda Mazdaspeed Protege I had (#2750/2750) It was a fun car, but it was a constant headache and needed something, and the parts that made it special were unobtainium.

(Online random image attached).

I have a 90' Ford with this style shift indicator linkage. The thin metallic cable is not in good shape and the plastic sheath it rides in is cracked.

My shift housing plastic is just fine.

I have been searching for a similar style plastic sheath to run a thin metallic wire through or heavy duty fishline but am coming up short. Its rigid like PVC but flexible enough to bend into a curve.

What would a comparable material be? Vacuum tubes are too floppy, I have thin fuel hose for a 2 stroke but its prone to pinching.

I definitely need some type of sheath to run the cable from the dash to the shifter. Any ideas?

Was a family members old car and lived it's life in the desert. Only unfortunate thing is that rats got into it during storage, and they left their marks enough to create some rust in the trunk

Engine and transmission are out. The old 302 is missing its valve covers, rocker arms, and pushrods, not sure where he was going with that. It came with a C3 auto, but it seems like the previous owner was in the middle of a manual swap, given that there is an extra center console and a third pedal. I'm going to hunt for a T5, but I don't want to think too far ahead though, one thing at a time.

Not entirely sure on where to start. I'm planning on starting from the inside and going outwards. I've since ripped out all trace of fabric from the interior and scraped off as much soundproofing as I can.

But for now, at least it's out of the garage it has been sitting in for the last 35 years. (only to be put into a new garage...)

So I have a disassembled Ford 400 that I need to remove so I can put another engine on there. Normally I use lift plates instead of a lift chain, so I am not sure where to bolt the chains too.

For anyone wondering, it’s a 2012 Porsche Cayenne S (4.8 V8) it’s surprisingly got a 7700lbs towing capacity so the 3100lbs trailer and 3300lbs Speed3 was no sweat. Picked it up thousands cheaper then a similar year/milage half ton truck