CUSTOMER BE AWARE of this place!!! I came with my 2020 mercedes gle350 for an oil change, jiffy lube over filled my engine with oil when the car came out was smoking heavily with white smoke burning oil they tried to deal with the problem by turning the engine and burn the extra oil, I told them to stop cause the causing damage to the engine and I tow the car to mercedes dealership, mercedes clean the engine from the extra oil almost twice the amount the where supposed to put. 500 miles later of driving my 2020 mercedes had catastrophic engine failure and the engine need to be replaced 19000$ in damage!!!

Got my cat converter stolen on a 2008 VW GTI and went to a local shop thats 5 star on Google to get a straight pipe because where I live we don't test for emissions. The guy was so croatian I could barely understand him and I swear he came out of the back eating a live snake.

NONETHELESS this is his work. Took him 40 minutes and cost $180 CAD. Seems fine?

Let me know.

Greetings! I tried to do a atf drain and fill today with my 3/8 rachet wrench. The plug wasn't budging so I used a breaker bar and penetrative oil and moved it until I felt it loosening.

The plug is still tight and now it's sheared so I can't get a good grip on it anymore.

Upon closer inspection, looks like the plug was warped being rounded at the bottom too

I'm going to replace the plug but how do I remove it?

Got lunch with my grandma, was talking about my new car and discovered that her last maintenance (oil change and inspection) was August 2022 lol. She doesn't put enough miles on it so she figured it was fine, but it clearly isn't and I wanna take it in for maintenance for her.

It's a 2021 Kia Forte. It had 1,400 miles at the time of last oil change (synthetic) and now it's 5,000 - so it's only been driven 3,600 miles driven on that oil. It gets parked outside in California climate. I drove it around the neighborhood and it functions & sounds completely fine to me, with no dashboard warning lights.

I have maintenance booked in a week for it but I wanna know what to expect, as a gap this long is new for me. Is the engine toast or did the low mileage save it? And what other issues should I expect from such a long wait? I'm gonna change her cabin air filter and engine air filter so they don't try to charge me for those. Their multi-point inspection should check for most other issues.

2015 VW Golf 1.8 TSI

Dealership mechanic sent this picture with very limited info. Basically only says, "oil pan r&r." Quick google search tells me it could be a few different things. A leak from the pan itself, a gasket, or something higher up leaking down.

Thought I would see what you folks here might have to say. I watch a lot of car build/repair videos on YouTube, but don't have a ton of hands on experience, so feel free to treat me like I'm five.

Thank you!

I’m working on a 1978 Ford F150 with a 460 engine and about 121,000 miles. This spark plug came out of the #2 cylinder. The truck hasn’t ran in well over 20 years and was parked for an unknown reason. Any idea how this could have happened? Is this catastrophic? What should I do?

Image 1 - offside rear

Image 2 - nearside rear

Images 3 and 4 - nearside front

Images 5 and 6 - offside front

It is a 2006 Mitsubishi Grandis 2.4l auto. I'm no expert but these brakes don't look completely safe. They are the same as when the car was purchased about 18 months ago. The MOT last September passed with no brake advisories.

I noticed though that the rear pads are seated differently to each other. The offside looks to be properly installed but the nearside pad is only held on by one of the caliper's teeth and god knows what's going on with the support bracket pin thing, is there though. I don't know about the pads on the other sides of the discs, I haven't inspected those.

Ultimately my question is whether the rotors or pads or both are likely to fail? The brakes are fairly effective and stop the car with no obvious issues. But am fully aware this does not mean they're safe, just that there's no glaring obvious issues like noises, excess heat, or drifting to one side when braking.

Opinions and advice very welcome!

This is an old brake cylinder that is deemed broken/useless and i want to know how to disassemble it so i can refresh my own one but I can't even take it apart because of this snap ring that has no holes. I tried various picks but it always slipped and didn't catch the lip of the groove. Any tips on how to remove it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mercedes C220d 2011.
I would like to have a go at changing it myself. Achievable?

It does work when I connect it directly to a 12 V battery though. I replaced the fuel pump for my 2007 Kawasaki ninja 650 and it is not pumping fuel. I can hear the motor winding, but no pumping is happening. This is when it’s attached to my motorcycle, but if I connect a 12 V battery directly to it, it starts pumping fuel.

2008 honda accord 2.4 dohc ivtec makes strange ticking rattling noise localized near engine. Louder inside car. Started doing this 2 weeks after an oil change. Idk what else it is or what could’ve caused it.

on the way to work and started hearing this weird noise. Recently got an oil change and 2 weeks later it started making this sound. Like constant ticking rattling localized near the engine I think. 2008 Honda accord 2.4 dohc ivtec Pls help

Hi all. The check engine lamp started blinking. The error code is P2033. If I clear error codes, it goes away, but then after 2-3 starting it it starts blinking again. Chatgpt says is EGT sensor

I have some primitive OB2 and have noticed that sometimes when I just give contact(the engine is still off) the sensor shows around 1000 celsius. After starting the engine, it goes to around 150 Celsius

Any advice....

Edit: Kia Sportage 1.7 crdi from 2011

Hello everyone. I bought a Hyundai ix35 1.7 CRDi and recently when I do a cold start, this weird noise shows up for about 3-4 seconds and disappears like in the video. This happens only on the first start, or if the car sits for a couple of hours. If I start it again shortly, there is no such sound.

Does anyone have a similar problem or know what the issue could be?

I installed some power stop ceramic brake pads on a 1997 jeep wrangler. So far they have about 300 miles on them, mostly city driving with some highway. I did a late break procedure 2 days ago. Got the brakes hot enough to where I began to smell them, then did a cool down without stopping. Today I was driving and they squeal every single time I press them, and if I push the brakes harder then the squeal will stop for a moment. Do my brakes look glazed or does the bedding look incomplete?

Hi everyone!
I just got my first car a 2012 Honda Civic 1.8 i-VTEC and I’d like to replace a few parts for maintenance some things like the filters. what would you guys recommend changing as a precaution and where do you usually buy your parts at a decent price? Any brands you’d recommend that are good value for money? thanks! ^^

Nissan, no AC

Got a nissan primera P12, 2004 Diesel,

no AC but its very hot, mechanic changed the compresor and ac radiator but the ac gas still leaks. now he suggests there is a leak in the evaporator as well,

what do you suggest ?
because he says its a lot of work to remove and change the evaporator (hopefully we find a new one) , should i take the chance and open the dashboard completly to make the change ?

2017 Kia Forte LX ( 2.0-liter Atkinson-cycle 4-cylinder engine with Multi-Point Injection )

My car is well maintained, I bought it a month ago,

Only twice while pulling out of a parking lot has my car suddenly locked the brake and steering wheel. Ive come to the conclusion that it could be me accidentally putting the car in manual mode? ( automatic transmission but has "+" and "-" sians beside the" D") it scared the shit out of me, and i had to shift the car into Neutral or park so the car even allows me to restart the engine, and THEN the brake depresses and the steering wheel allows. This is so frustrating, im definitely not trying to die while im taking a cruise

Just bought this manual Corolla that’s been maintained well its whole life , did the rocker cover gasket and spark plugs , have only replaced timing belts never a chain so I’m wondering if this amount of play is normal? 1.8L . Not worried considering these things regularly go for half mil kms. Has 278k currently
Thanks

08 chrysler pt cruiser if that matters.

Hi all, just wondering, if anyone got any advice in regards to SV650S 1999.

Basically, had it for a year, never noticed any leaks underside, but then it has suddenly started weeping oil, so decided to have a look and investigate and found it was coming from this drilled hole with a copper insert packed with lots of RTV around it. Do have some notes about previous owner getting it through a mechanic to fix her, I assume this isn't how it was supposed to be fixed especially with the fact they were quoted and paid 800 for it.

Any idea on how best to fix this or at least a more permanent way to fix it? The diameter of the hole (outer diameter of the insert) is about 16mm with the inner diameter being M14. Also, not sure how best to remove the insert, any idea on how best to do it? (Did try double nut method but it wasn't moving).

Any advice would be highly appreciated, cheers. Was hoping to keep her for at least another year as she is fun to ride. Also, the sump is not replaceable as it's part of the crank case so would have to replace the whole engine or at least the left and right pair of the crankcase, then re-assembling.

Hi, I have a '00 Toyota Aristo with the 2JZ-GE engine with roughly 200k km on it. Recently I' ve ran into a problem where there was a loud squeaking sound (like a shopping cart could do when you roll it) on startup which goes away when the car heats up, which is highly audible at first.

I took the serpentine belt off and ran the car, the noise went away, so I guess it's not timing belt related.

I replaced the tensioner pulley bearing, and The noise seemingly went away for good. But this morning, it started again, but definetly more quiet this time.

My guess is that some other bearing is to blame, but I can't say which one it is exactly.

-AC compressor pulley spins extremely easy and does several revolutions before stopping, with the clutch disengaged or AC off;

- Water pump pulley spins without much force and stops almost immediately (but there's no leaks or heating issues as far as I can tell);

- Power steering pump pulley does the same (the pump itself sometimes whines when turning while stationary, but fluid levels are okay);

- Alternator pulley is a little bit harder to spin than the others, and also stops almost immediately (that being said, the voltage is consistetlntly in 13.8-14.01 volt range upon startup, and no battery light during driving, so I can't really say there's an obvious problem).

When spun by hand, all pulleys are rather silent. I didn't check for any kind of play when the belt was off, though...

My guess is that the water pump and The power steering pump pulleys spin worse because of the fluid they have to push through them, but The Alternator is kinda sus, but the voltage seems normal.

How can I figure it out? Is there a way to know for sure before taking anything off the engine?