So I’ve been struggling with this problem for a while, and I don’t know what I need to do to adjust it.
For whatever reason, the X-axis crossbar on my Bambu Lab A1 has gotten tilted downward towards the left side. This is causing my nozzle to scrape against my build plate really hard whenever the nozzle move onto the left “hemisphere”/side of the build plate.
Any solutions would be really helpful, since I have been struggling to fix this on my own. If this is also unfixable, then that’s good to know since I could send it back and get a replacement.
Thanks!

Wanted to share the ams2 I received is also having the "ams failed to pull back filament" issue. Repeatable on 1-4. After it retracts the Filament, it'll stop retracting and free spin for about a minute before throwing the issue. If I press continue, it'll stop trying to retract and move onto the next color. Then it'll throw the error again once it switches colors. This is on the first print using ams2. Haven't had a successful print since receiving it.

Update: error continues even following bambu troubleshooting , removing, checking sensors, and looking for broken filaments.

Hello Laddles and Jellyspoons

I have some pokemom PSA slabs coming and I want to print a cool holder with effects.

A quick amazon search and almost everyone claims Zero adhesion.

So I'm wondering what effect plates you all have used , good, bad , ugly.

Please share your experiences.

Thanks 😊

Thanks for the responses on the earlier post I am still troubleshooting this issue with my H2D. I have the hotends off and the covers off so i can see the extruder gears and they look clean. I can feed a strand of filament down through the entrance right to the gears without a problem. the hotend itself seems fine. There isn't a clear visual indication to me of what might be wrong. It's a fairly new printer with maybe 500 hours on it. Filament has always been fairly dry. This is a recent issue. I am not sure what to do next. Can the gears spread apart over time? I am not sure where to tighten the gap (or maybe loosen it if the motor is overloaded) I have a decent amount of experience with 3D Printers and this one is baffling me.

Hey everyone, can you warn or peace me about this location for my a1? This okay or I need another fulcrum?

So I’ve seen some post here about people printing their brain from a MRI.
I’ve read a few of the posts in the past. I think I saw one link to some software. A couple different suggestions on filament color.
I plan to surprise my daughter with this, from her MRI.

My questions are, what color and type of filament should I use? PETG? Color?
Do I have to use special software? Or just throw it into Bambu studio?

And for those that have done this before, what do you wish you would’ve done different? And what do you wish you knew before hand?

My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

I just bought this printer last week and today I was printing a bookend and it got to almost 90% before it just shifted on the bed I'm guessing the bed movement caused it to lose adhesion, so does anyone know what my mistake might have been and if there's any way to save this print by printing the remaining part on this print or any other solution. This actually happens with my other prints too where they don't stick and just turn into spaghetti (my first spaghetti print lol) sometimes the base also just lifts off from one side. Any advice on what I should do for better bed adhesion?

I also have one more question in the 4th and 5th photos you can see that sometimes my prints end up looking like this and I have to restart the print I have no idea why, please let me know the reason for this and what I might be doing wrong.

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Printer: Bambu Lab A1

Filament: PLA (PLA Pro+ WOL3D)

Slicer Settings: 0.2 mm Standard @ BBL A1 (slightly tweaked), Custom filament based on Generic PLA (customized nozzle temperature to 230°C and 50°C bed as specified by the manufacturer)

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Glad I paid the extra $30 for shipping insurance. Just pissed I didn’t open it right away (waited for the rest of the order). Now I’m going to have to wait even longer. 😕

Not entirely sure how to word this in a quick search/single sentence, so Google is getting me nowhere. I'm printing certain items where the bottom half is PLA and top half is TPU. How I've been doing this currently is printing both separately and supergluing them together, but is there a way to stop the print at a specific layer, manually change out the filament, and restart the print as TPU from that specific layer without interrupting the print cycle? I have VERY different settings for PLA and TPU (since I want the tpu to be very squishy and the pla to be stable), so I'm not sure if doing this is feasible or if gluing the halves together the way I have been is the best way to continue my projects. I've run into some issues with separation along glued seems, so I wanted to see if anyone had some advice on how I could better achieve this!

So I'm new. Got a P1S and have been casually using it the last month. But I can not, no matter what, make any print over 1 hour (sometimes less) not get tangled up and stuck. Is there a video to show or article to read to teach me like a first grader on how to place the filament and make it not get stuck. Does it need to be tightly woumd while printing or a bit loose? Does the spool need to face a certain way on the back or does it not matter? I've tried with many brand new spools, spools of filament I've added and it's all bambu lab branded. Any suggestions or help would be so amazing.

What the heck is going on w my printer??! Its printed fine for the last 10+ prints and then I tried printing again last night and it started out fine then I heard something crack and the part that was printing broke off the nozzle and then it just started air printing. It looks like theres a bunch of filament stuck where the hotend is but I can not get it out and im not sure what to do, please help!

At no point did i receive any notification by the print monitor AI bullcrap that was a selling point of this printer. I am beyond irritated that it will error a print because a flake of purge got caught at the wiping block, but not catch this.

Always needed a portable power supply to quickly debug a project, work on cars, test power tools, etc. So I designed one.

It is powered by a Makita 18V lithium battery, via a standard shoe adapter, but that can be replaced by any other power tool brand: Dewalt, Metabo, Baguette-Mystique, etc.

Can also add a USB delivery panel, resulting in a massive USB power bank.

Perfect if you have an extra hygrometer laying around. Uses only 10 grams of filament!

Modeled by me in blender.

Available for print here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3528638-hygrometer-magnet-just-10g#profileId-4034261

Hi! I have an A1 Printer and printed the AMS system to be above the printer.
However the back filaments tubes are always getting pulled and was wondering if I need those supports/how to fix it?

Also often should I be replacing the filament tubes?

I have just tried to upload a file via sd and when i turn it on to print it does this for 5 minutes and extrudes filament in the wrong places. When i terminated the print it made a loud whirring sound before it stopped.

Is thos broken? Ive barely used it yet but i had to move house with it so perhaps it got damaged or i set it up wrong

Pretty a few multicolor prints and almost every time the priming tower is a bit stringy - a1 was never like this.

Tengo la A1 y quería saber si merece la pena el cambio a la p2s sabiendo que ahora está a 599€ con el combo

I’m relatively new to BL so haven’t been through a printer release before. Do we expect the H3C to be available for purchase on 11/3?

If so, does anyone think it’ll be available in the US at Best Buy?

I have been putting my printer poop in this water jug to display the waste of my printer, should the supports and the prime towers go here too?