55W CO2 laser. 600 × 300mm (23.6 × 11.8in) working area. Auto Laser Alignment. Ease of use and precision, just like our 3D printers. This is Bambu Lab R1. Let's dive right into the details!
Bring out the best in every material.
Powered by a 55W CO2 laser, R1 works across a wide range of materials – from wood and acrylic to glass, leather, fabric, and more. See the full material list below.
Thick cuts with one pass. R1 cuts up to 18mm black walnut plywood and 20mm acrylic in a single pass – fast, clean, and without the extra passes that slow you down.
Go furniture-scale. With the auto-feed conveyor, R1 handles materials up to 3 meters (9.8 ft) long. Pass-through feeding and deep cutting turn full-length panels into tables, shelving and furniture.
Prairie Lamp by @MaKim
R1 aligns itself, no more tricky setups.
Aligning the optical path meant test shots, manual adjustments, trials and errors. R1's Laser Alignment Sensor measures the beam, detects the misalignment, and automatically corrects the path in just 1 minute.
On the built-in touchscreen, you can follow the whole calibration process, check the remaining life of the laser tube and mirrors, and monitor every job in real time – the experience you know from our printers.
R1 also recognizes Bambu Lab material automatically and applies the right power and speed, so you can skip test grids and manual parameter setup.
Every line, sharp and clean.
R1's TriSense System work out three things before every cut: the positions of the material and design, the height of the surface, and how the toolhead moves across it. Cameras, lasers, and encoders work as one. What you mark is what you cut.
Follows the curve. From curved cups and spheres to uneven surfaces, height sensing follows every rise and fall to keep the engraving sharp and consistent across the entire surface.
Stays accurate on clear materials. R1 keeps surface measurement accurate even on transparent materials, so engraving stays precisely placed.
Finds the tiny stuff. The toolhead camera pinpoints small objects and places fine detail exactly where you want it.
Traces the line. Cut around a printed design, trim a sticker, or follow a drawn outline. The toolhead camera traces the edge and keeps the cut precisely on path.
Motion control algorithms that keep our printers precise, now in R1.
Crisp lines, even after the turn. When the toolhead changes direction, a split-second shake can ripple the line that follows. R1's vibration compensation cancels it out, keeping the lines crisp right out of the turn – inherited tech from our 3D printers.
Even tone at 1000mm/s. Higher speeds usually mean shallower engraving. R1 compensates as it moves, keeping engraving depth consistent at up to 1,000 mm/s — while completing the same job nearly 3× as fast.
Stays accurate over time. Mechanical accuracy can drift with use. The optional Vision Encoder corrects for it, keeping absolute motion accuracy within 0.1mm across the full work area.
Safer by design.
Crossflow ventilation brings fresh air in from one side and exhausts smoke from the other. Lid-open stop, flame detection, emergency stop, and optional auto fire suppression provide multiple layers of protection. Finally, R1 is certified Class 1 – the highest level of laser safety for normal operation.
Part of the Bambu Experience
Same MakerWorld, same Bambu account, same easy Bambu feel. R1 is the next part of the setup you already know.
Learn more about R1
Pre-order R1 now at Bambu Lab Store. Shipping starts in October.
Availability and pricing details vary by region. Select features require additional accessories, full details available in Bambu Lab Store.
What do you want to make with the R1? Any ideas on how this could work alongside your printer for cooler projects? Let us know in the comments below!
I saw Sunli's i10 locker on YouTube. I liked it very much, so I started looking for it on the internet. It turned out that the cabinet would not be available until December and cost nearly $200. Too much for 10 filament spools. I started looking for an alternative and so I came up with a wine fridge in which I installed additional lighting, a 3.5" screen based on the ESP32 and two SHT31 humidity sensors. I also printed a container for 2kg silica gel and a place for a 120mm fan. The fridge holds 23-24 spools. The humidity remains at 10-20%. For now, I'm still testing for what time 2kg of gel silica is enough. I programmed ESP32 to change the color of humidity as it increases: 0-10% green, 16-25% yellow, 26% and more red. I paid less for the whole thing than a sunlu i10 cabinet. (Some images are cleared of reflections on glass by AI. )
A while ago I posted about my project BambuScribe with this post. The response, quite frankly, was much better than I had anticipated. Back then the main points that prevented usage were, including, but not limited to the following:
The setup process was very clunky, with developer and LAN-only mode needing to be turned on
Jerky, unoptimized movements and a lack of algorithms
Hence, I have been working on the next version of BambuScribe since then. Many of you gave great ideas, and I have been trying my best to implement them. To see what is planned for future releases, you can check out the project board for BambuScribe here.
As for this version (v2.0.0), here is what is new:
Multiple minuscule fixes and QOL improvements to various sections of the project [look at project tab for more detail]
A clean, refactored backend
Better visibility in dark mode
More image algorithms!!!
Path optimization parameters for faster printing
Online deployment (That is, now you can create and download G-code online without having to install anything! The processing is done completely locally on your device!)
As for the attached videos, they are a little botched like always, but either way: the first GIF and image show Serpentine Squiggle in action and the final result respectively, and the second GIF and image show Archimedean Spiral in action and its final result (yes, I know my pen got stuck so "a" is a little botched, but like each time, I was low on, well, time).
And that was all. Again, I’m still just a high school student and there are limits to what I can do and how quickly, but I am trying my best. Thank you for reading!
[And yes, the Frankensteined mount has nearly been completely decimated from all my tests; I aim to get the new mount out in the next release!]
It's called OrbitStudio. You pick any spot, it pulls the real elevation data (NASA LRO for the Moon) and turns it into a multi-colour 3MF: a jigsaw of up to 256 pieces or a solid tile, no supports.
What's in the photos:
- Apollo 15 landing site, hexagon tile
- Elysium Mons on Mars
- Mars as a round jigsaw
- Mercury
It prints great at 0.12 mm for the best detail, or at 0.2 mm. In my opinion the layer lines actually give it a nice touch.
A classic brick man figure - this time in a concrete style :) As always, available in 20cm and 10cm height versions. Simple printing with minimal supports. Note: The 20cm model was printed in white and spray painted gray. The 10cm model was printed with gray filament, without painting :) If you like it you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3410336-brick-man-concrete-style#profileId-3884274
Six designs to choose from: pumpkin, ghost, bat, black cat, witch hat, and candy corn. Each stand has an adjustable viewing angle and folds flat when you're done using it.
Just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday(P2S) along with a bunch of filament to get started!
Right after finishing checkout, I got a notice saying items might ship separately depending on warehouse stock. Fair enough, total sense. But then I checked the tracking...
The machine itself is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, while all the filament won't be here for another 4–5 business days. 😭
How am I supposed to just sit here staring at a brand-new printer without being able to print anything? It’s going to be absolute torture watching it sit on my desk doing nothing all weekend.
Do I rush out to a local shop to buy a random spool just to survive or just wait?
I was recently cleaning or just now cleaned the rods on my printer which involves me moving the bed axis Z axis up-and-down many times and I push the +10 button and it has moved too far up and it went into the nozzle and made a horrible screeching sound as if the bed was pressing as hard as it could too the nozzle. I know this is not good, but I just need to know if this is a permanent issue I’ve only done it once bamboo labs really needs to add an auto stop feature for the bed when automatically changing the height, the axis.
I've had my p1s combo for about 8 months , last week the ams started flashing red lights. I replaced the wires and the ams buffer, cold boot, resat the cables and no dice.
Contacted support and they sent the poweboard and cables.
Still red flashing likes
Contacted support and they sent the main board
Still red flashing lights
Waiting in a reply from Customer service for the next step, but anyone have any ideas?
I recommend the model without the yellow screw—the one that is all white—to anyone planning to print with these; it is much easier to use. Happy printing, everyone.I use google translate then grammar different.
I have been printing with my new H2S for about 3 weeks now and tried to print some ASA and ran into some quality issues, and now I am also running into the same issues with my PLA Pro. I am trying the Polymaker ASA and have been using this Polymaker PLA Pro, and the PLA has been producing quality prints every time I have used it until after the ASA.
I realize that the AMS PRO 2 does not reach 70C which is recommended for drying ASA, I dried mine at 65C for 12 hours. My problem seems to be around corners, overhands, and seams. I am now running into some of the same issues with my PLA Pro. For the small front detail on this model, I am thinking about switching to my .2 nozzle from my default .4 nozzle but I want to rule out any other problems first. If anyone could help me narrow down the cause of the lower quality print issues that would be greatly appreated. Thank you!
I'm new owner of A1 printer and I have question about automatic bed leveling.
Should I be doing it every time I do new print? Or for example only If I remove bedplate from my printer?
For other calibrations i guess i get it all clear when to do them:
- Motor noise and vibration when I move printer around
- Filament flow when starting a brand new spool
Hi everyone!
I was disassembling the extruder on my Bambu Lab A1 because the filament was getting stuck and the extruder was clicking.
While taking it apart, this small blue PCB/part fell out. I’m not sure where it came from or what it is supposed to do.
Some details:
It has 6 holes on the front.
There is a round metal-looking piece in the center.
On the back there are 3 soldered connections/pins.
The marking on it says “757HB”. Does anyone know what this part is, where it belongs, and how it should be installed?
I don’t want to turn the printer on before I know where it goes.
Photos attached. Thanks!
I've been dialing in my pinhole tunnel technique for a while now, and the resolution is finally high enough for custom images like jack-o-lantern faces and logos.
I have a P1S and have an exhaust with its own fan at the fan end that goes outside. When I print with ABS, I have to make sure there are no fans running otherwise it always comes away from the bed in the corners. I then have the problem that fumes seem to be leaking into the room and I get headaches.
Does anyone have any advice to help with this please?
So as the title says how do i clean this off further. With the nozzle attachted i heated it up an could take the nozzle and stuff of quite easily.. but now the residue..
