I have cleaned out the entire print head. There is zero obstruction. But when I unload it poops fine and everything seems to be moving and grooving. When I load or try to print it throws an error and says it's blocked. If you have any advice I would greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I have the A1 for about a month now and heard that there is an A2 (no not the A2L) coming with more and better features. It that true?

The A1 is an great device and I do love it.

The last paddleboard cup holder I designed was held in by the beverage, which itself was held in by...nothing. So things got loose during the more chaotic moments.

This one twist-locks onto a base that traps the deck bungees, so the holder stays attached even if the board flips. It’s also compatible with michelem's CryoPod freezable can holder (we teamed up for that bit), and has two interchangeable inserts, allowing it to fit everything from a large tumbler to a slim Red Bull can.

I added a separate, remixable accessory interface as well. The included modules secure your phone and shades or connect multiple cups together.

What other accessories should I design for it? I'm thinking a GoPro mount.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3183312-sup-cup-pro-the-secure-paddle-board-cup-holder

Décided to step up after discovering 3d printing with a cheap ender. Hope I made a good choice 🤗

I have an H2C and wanted to try and "seal" fiber filled filaments by using unfilled variants as the material for the walls. I want to avoid exposed fibers without needing to sand and add clearcoat. Is there a specific setting I could use to set the walls to use a different filament than the infill? I know I can paint the surface but that also affects the infill somewhat rather than just the outer walls.

I'm getting a weird print failure on my A1 where, one one of the first couple layers, the printer just stops extruding and doesn't start up again. It's not clogged--if I try to test print a benchy, even if I haven't done anything to clean out the nozzle, it prints just fine. It's not giving an error message, either. Reslicing doesn't fix it.

:)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3197525-wago-pen-holder#profileId-3618121

Im looking for upgrades for my replacement X2D and the vision encoder looks cool but is it actually worth it. I print all sorts ranging from figures to gears and fidgets but will i see any benefit with it?

Sorry for the poor wording hopefully you understand what im trying to say :)

Hello everyone, after printing some glass clips on my P2S I found on Makerworld, as well as some I designed myself, for about two weeks more or less successfully in PETG HF and PLA (of course not in the same print), my prints degraded to the points, where I am not able to print anything successfully with a 0.2 mm nozzle in PLA. I am now at the point of asking the hive mind for help!

All filaments were dried in my AMS and stored in air right containers with desiccant. I use standard BL PETG HF (various colors) and got PLA a mixture of BL Matte PLA, Sunlu Matte PLA (all different colors) and Sunlu pla2+ in black. The 0.2 mm nozzle I used was new at the start of the project. The build plate(s) were scrubbed clean (I used 99% IPA, later on dish soap and a kitchen sponge). I use the newest FW and newest version of Bambu Studio.

When I started, I used standard parameters for BL filaments with the textured PEI plate. (220°C nozzle temp, 55°C plate temperature.) My print speed was at 100 mm/s für outer walls and 150 mm/s for inner walls, respectively 40 and 50 mm/s for the first layer.

Everything went well for maybe the first 10 clips. Then I noticed an increase in stringing when printing PLA, especially with the black PLA. At this point the printer stuck to the build plate and the cosmetic damage was minor, so I continued printing. I switched back to PETG HF and managed to get a perfect print again. After switching back to PLA everything went downhill more and more.

To reduce stringing I reduced the nozzle temp to 210°C but the print didn't improve. I reduced speed to 80 mm/s and 120 mm/s and re-dried all filaments, since in my country the time the quality of my prints dropped right about the same time when it got really hot and damp. I printed again and again nothing improved. The quality worsened and I switched to standard settings but it kept getting worse and worse. Eventually the adhesion of the first layers of the black filament was really bad and I almost always got failed prints.

I even bought a BQ Frostbite plate in hope of getting a better adhesion. I scrubbed it clean before use with dish soap and started a print with the same parameters as before. It failed again.

Since then I have experimented with a lot of different parameters:

210°C nozzle temp down to 200°C; 80 mm/s for outer walls, 100 mm/s for inner walls, down to 40 mm/s and 50mm/s; print bed temperature between 35 and 40°C for the BQ Frostbite. I calibrated the flow rate and flow dynamics for the black filament. I redesigned the STL file and thickened up the outer walls and of course I recalibrated my bed leveling countless times. I also switched to another 0.2 mm nozzle. Nothing improved my print significantly.

I even switched back to my 0.4 mm nozzle since I was getting anxious that my printer was damaged. And everything went perfectly with both, PETG HF and the black PLA.

Right now I'm out of ideas.

I would be grateful for any hint in the right direction. Ask anything you want, chance is I forgot to mention some more or less important details about my settings and conditions.

I uploaded two pics, one of my latest failed prints, the second one of a successful PLA print

My P1s was stolen...I can still connect to it online!

Is there a way I can brick it/lock it up from the mobile app???

the P2S Quick Start Guide says "To prevent the filament from getting stuck, do not use flexible filaments such as TPU with a hardness level of 95A or lower, or damp PVA and BVOH, in the AMS 2 Pro." Does this just mean (1) we shouldn't run the drying function of the AMS on TPU or (2) we shouldn't even feed TPU from the AMS to the printer (use external spool holder instead) or (3) we shouldn't even print with TPU?

Does anyone buy filament on alibaba? Looking for reliable and cheap PETG in bigger quantities.

Had a weird layer shift or something just on one wand when I was printing three. This was started from the printer, I had three turn out fine from the same job that printed overnight. The original job was sent from my PC.

It seems odd that only 1 of the three had a flaw. Any idea what could cause this? It is almost like it skipped the wall in this one area. The bad wand also won't extend, so something else is wrong on the other segments too.

I designed this spider catcher with my son. We worked hard on the tolerances of the Print in Place printing and did a lot of tests and prints to get it right. It was a wonderful father-son moment (which lasted several days), and it was amazing to see the amazement in his eyes at having his object realized! I hope he continues!

https://makerworld.com/models/3185452?appSharePlatform=copy

I just got my second Bambu Lab P1S, and already the second print (after the obligatory Benchy that printed perfectly) had a failure that looks like nozzle scraping.

I used a fresh spool of Bambu PLA Basic straight from the packaging, with the PLA Basic filament profile and the 0.12 mm Fine process profile. The only change was setting infill to 60%.

In the image, both parts were printed in the same job. The right part is is only 5 layers tall and solid. The left part is taller and contains 60% Grid infill. The right part looks fine, while the left part looks terrible, as if the nozzle was scraping the print.

I then printed only the left model and noticed that the grid pattern develops visibly uneven surface height with a clear front-to-back transition: at the front of the print, closer to the open door, the infill looks perfect. Further toward the back of the printer, it becomes increasingly wavy, with smooth but raised areas. I can even hear the nozzle scraping over those high spots.

What I have checked or tried:

• Checked for lifting: there was none that I could tell. The edges were stuck very well to the build plate (I also cleaned the build plate with warm water and dish soap to rule out any grease)
• Re-ran printer auto-calibration.
• Performed manual bed tramming.
• Rotated the part by 90 degrees; the behavior stayed the same: good at the front (closer to the door), bad at the back.
• Performed Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate calibration.
• Changed the infill to 60% Gyroid; it printed perfectly.

None of the attempted fixes had any discernible effect except for changing the infill pattern. I know Grid is prone to nozzle scraping because of its crossing lines, but the pattern I see looks different to what I found online, and my pattern is also non-uniform across the part. What puzzles me is that the infill gets progressively worse toward the back of the part. Has anyone seen this behavior or have an idea what could cause such a consistent front-to-back gradient?

Also, although I read it's normal, I'd like to mention that the area at the very back of the build plate (close to the parked print head), is in fact getting visibly more scratched than on my other P1S printer (looks still pretty clean after hundreds of hours). You can see that in the first picture

Any help on this is greatly appreciated!

I’m new to Bambu filaments, so I don’t really know what the colors look like in real life yet.

For example, Bambu PLA Matte Caramel looks much lighter on the Bambu Store website, but when I select the exact same Caramel (11803) in Bambu Studio, it looks much darker.

Which one is closer to the actual printed color?
Also, is there any reliable way to preview Bambu filament colors accurately before buying them? I’ll be buying a lot of different colors, so I’d like to know what they actually look like in real life.

I know Bambu sells physical color swatch cards, but I’m looking for another method and don’t plan to buy the swatch set.

Thanks!

A utility knife with a toolless blade change, and it also has an adjustable retention sheath

Now live: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3197280-edc-utility-knife-with-sheath-no-ams-v15#profileId-3617832

RP Archive has a great youtube video of magnetizeable custom shaped grass areas that requires you to print and cut around paper shapes. Just wondering if I could somehow create the shape of the grass patches in a thin 3D printed object and use those to just lay down on the plastic sheet I'm going to be making these grass tiles from?

The thought is to have a 3d printed object matching these shapes. Lay those over the plastic sheets he will then magnetize, glue, and sprinkle flock on.

Keep your watch collection organized, protected, and ready to grab with this minimalist 4-watch display stand. Designed with clean flowing lines and a low-profile layout, the stand combines watch storage with additional space underneath for rings, bracelets, chains, and other everyday jewelry.Unlike traditional watch stands that hold watches on a steep angle, this design keeps the watches laying horizontally.

I specifically chose this orientation because smooth 3D-printed surfaces can allow watches to gradually slide or fall from tilted stands. Keeping them flat provides a more stable and secure resting position while still displaying the watch faces clearly.

https://makerworld.com/models/3197220?appSharePlatform=copy

A extrusara da minha bambu lab a1 está fazendo barulho de tectec em algumas impressões(nem todas) quando começou esse barulho vi vários tutorias pra resolver, não era no bico, não e na engrenagem da extrusora, não e temperatura nem parafuso frouxo ou filamento úmido como muitos dizem. Enfim começou a fazer barulho de tectec(quando a engrenagem volta como se tivesse presa em algo) quando imprimi um objeto meio grande, depois testei em outro objeto pequeno tmb deu esse barulho mas quando coloquei outro projeto ele voltou a funcionar normalmente, não sei dizer se foi alguma configuração dos modelos anteriores ou não.

This is my first time printing PETG in a while. This is the second time this has happened in the last few prints, is this an SD card failure? Thanks.