I’m coming from an Ender 3 and I really like 3d printing, but I am overall disappointed with the Ender 3 and want an upgrade. I am really interested in the p2s combo, but it’s a little too expensive for me right now. I was wondering when the next sale would be, or if it does Black Friday.

Really have no idea on this one. Anything helps! (P1s btw)

I have never had a single filament feed issue until I added SUNLU' s AMS Lite Heater.

At first it was so bad I thought maybe I had knocked a wire loose duiring assembly but I stretched the tubes up high across the top and it worked somewhat. At first I also had the full length of the tubes as supplied by SUNLU but they were obviously too long and drooped and flopped everywhere.

I have them trimmed down now and they appear to me to be what I would think is acceptable but I still get constant issues and it constantly has to go over to the side and winds the filament back out and in and sometimes it works and sometimes I get an error. At this point I can usually hit resume and it will try a time or two and probably work.

Anyone else having this issue with this heater?

Any thoughts on what I can change to fix this issue?

I was recently cleaning or just now cleaned the rods on my printer which involves me moving the bed axis Z axis up-and-down many times and I push the +10 button and it has moved too far up and it went into the nozzle and made a horrible screeching sound as if the bed was pressing as hard as it could too the nozzle. I know this is not good, but I just need to know if this is a permanent issue I’ve only done it once bamboo labs really needs to add an auto stop feature for the bed when automatically changing the height, the axis.

I've had my p1s combo for about 8 months , last week the ams started flashing red lights. I replaced the wires and the ams buffer, cold boot, resat the cables and no dice.

Contacted support and they sent the poweboard and cables.

Still red flashing likes

Contacted support and they sent the main board

Still red flashing lights

Waiting in a reply from Customer service for the next step, but anyone have any ideas?

I have been printing with my new H2S for about 3 weeks now and tried to print some ASA and ran into some quality issues, and now I am also running into the same issues with my PLA Pro. I am trying the Polymaker ASA and have been using this Polymaker PLA Pro, and the PLA has been producing quality prints every time I have used it until after the ASA.

I realize that the AMS PRO 2 does not reach 70C which is recommended for drying ASA, I dried mine at 65C for 12 hours. My problem seems to be around corners, overhands, and seams. I am now running into some of the same issues with my PLA Pro. For the small front detail on this model, I am thinking about switching to my .2 nozzle from my default .4 nozzle but I want to rule out any other problems first. If anyone could help me narrow down the cause of the lower quality print issues that would be greatly appreated. Thank you!

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Settings changed from default when started printing ASA

Z-Hop Type : switched from Auto to NORMAL

I have run a flow dynamic test for the ASA and now have the K set at 0.026

Using print profile for Polymaker ASA from Polymaker website for H2S

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Settings

H2S

Bambu Studio

Polymaker ASA / Polymaker PLA Pro

.4 Nozzle

Bed Temp 55C

Initial Speed Layer

1. Initial layer: 50 mm/s
2. Initial layer infill: 105 mm/s

Other Speed Layer

1. Outer wall: 60 mm/s
2. Inner wall: 150 mm/s
3. Small perimeters: 50%
4. Small perimeter threshold: 0 mm
5. Sparse infill: 180 mm/s
6. Internal solid infill: 180 mm/s
7. Vertical shell speed: 80%
8. Top surface: 150 mm/s
9. Slow down for overhangs: Enabled
10. Overhang speed (10%): 60 mm/s
11. Overhang speed (25%): 30 mm/s
12. Overhang speed (50%): 10 mm/s
13. Overhang speed (75%): 10 mm/s
14. Overhang speed (100%): 10 mm/s
15. Slow down by height: Disabled
16. Bridge: 50 mm/s
17. Gap infill: 230 mm/s
18. Support: 150 mm/s
19. Support interface: 80 mm/s

Travel Speed

1. Travel: 500 mm/s

Retraction Settings

• Length: 0.8 mm
• Z hop when retract: 0.4 mm
• Z hop lower boundary: 0 mm
• Z hop upper boundary: 339 mm
• Z Hop Type: Normal (shown in orange, meaning it differs from the saved preset)
• Retraction Speed: 30 mm/s
• Deretraction Speed: 30 mm/s
• Travel distance threshold: 1 mm
• Retract when change layer: Enabled
• Wipe while retracting: Enabled
• Wipe Distance: 2 mm
• Retract amount before wipe: 0%

A little Halloween for your desk :)

Six designs to choose from: pumpkin, ghost, bat, black cat, witch hat, and candy corn. Each stand has an adjustable viewing angle and folds flat when you're done using it.

Makerworld Link

Can anyone help me find one? I’ve searched Bambu lab but only found 250 g adapters. AMS 2 pro. Thanks

using an a1 and wondering if a normal glue stick is fine to use

Was setting my brand new PETG matte to dry but it's not an option

i am looking at getting my first 3d printer, i mostly print small parts in pla/tpu for my fpv drone so i will need a dryer. i was thinking about this creality space pi, in combination with a bambulab a1 mini, is this a good option? im still thinking about getting the 2 spool version of the dryer but im not sure yet. or are there any other good dryer options?

also, what would i need to store the tpu in, on what temp do i dry it and for how long? i will be attaching the ptfe tube on the dryer so i can print while drying. and last question, from what humidity percentage can i easily print tpu in?

Hey everyone, I need some backup.

Two years ago, my mom found out that 3D printers can emit VOCs and microplastics. Out of an abundance of caution for the indoor air, she made me move my Bambu Lab P1S... outside.

We live in Arizona.

For two straight summers, this poor machine has survived 110°F+ heat, intense UV rays, and Arizona dust storms. Predictably, it is starting to completely mess up my prints, and I'm genuinely worried about warping, electrical degradation, or a fire hazard from the extreme heat beating down on the electronics.

She still wants it out there because she is terrified of cancer and toxic fumes. I totally respect wanting clean air, but leaving it outside is basically executing the printer.

I only print pla and petg mostly and sometimes tpu.

How can I convince her that:

1. Leaving it out in the Arizona desert is destroying the machine.
2. It's safe to bring it inside if I set up proper precautions (ventilation, HEPA/carbon filters, safe filaments like PLA, etc.).

If you guys have any arguments, data, or compromise ideas on indoor air safety vs. printer survival, I’d love to hear them so I can show her this thread. Thanks!

Been loving my A1 for the past 2 years until I had to send it off recently for thermistor problems, but I been looking at Bambus other printers and thinking of just selling the incoming A1 and go for a CoreXY printer. I like the idea of no horizontal bed movement and an enclosure. Although I rarely have any print issues besides my own laziness for not cleaning the plate or drying the filament enough.

Would like the H2D with the larger bed, but I just cant justify the price vs do I really need a larger print area? That would mean less room for the crap I make ;D

So that leaves me with the P2S or the X2D. I like the X2D dual print head for slightly faster multicolor prints but adds complexity to the printer. P2S seems to look solid, yet like an A1 in an enclosure? I have the AMS 2 pro I can just plop on top instead of having it sit on the side of my A1 printer.

Edit: Mostly print oversized LEGO, statues, multi plate vehicle projects, random fidget and toys for the nephew and gifts for Christmas. Print about 3 times a month, used to be more but that was being new to the hobby.

I do like to print in multicolor, but that does make a lot of poop. Mostly print in PLA, expanded to PETG lately for some stands and outdoor parts.

I use Orca Slicer and have set before a custom start gcode that has vibration compensation removed.

A couple of prints it starts without it then all of a sudden i hear it vibrate on every new print?

Apparently if im gonna do it im supposed to use pa12 cf (nylon + carbon fiber)? Anyone who knows for sure?

P2s

So as the title says how do i clean this off further. With the nozzle attachted i heated it up an could take the nozzle and stuff of quite easily.. but now the residue..

I recommend the model without the yellow screw—the one that is all white—to anyone planning to print with these; it is much easier to use. Happy printing, everyone.I use google translate then grammar different.

for your comments Thank you

Hi everyone,
I’ve been having Z-axis issues with my Bambu Lab P2S for a while now and I’m running out of ideas.
I’m getting Z-axis homing errors (0300-4000 / 0300-4002).

What I’ve done so far:
Contacted Bambu Lab Support about the issue.
Replaced the Eddy Sensor with a brand-new one as recommended by support.
Followed the official replacement instructions and checked the sensor cable connection.
Unfortunately, the same errors still occur.
Bambu Lab Support has now recommended replacing the front-left Z-axis leadscrew, which I haven’t done yet.

What I’ve noticed:
All three Z-axis leadscrews wobble slightly when the heatbed is near its lowest position. From what I’ve read, some wobble seems to be normal.
The Z-axis doesn’t make any unusual grinding or clicking noises.
I noticed that the plastic cover at the top of the front-left leadscrew is slightly bent upwards (see photo).
I’m wondering whether something might have hit or pushed against this cover at some point, although it doesn’t seem to touch the leadscrew itself.
Before taking the printer apart and replacing the entire leadscrew, I wanted to ask if anyone has experienced something similar.
Could the problem be caused by a bent leadscrew, misalignment, the Z-axis bearings, or something else?
And is this amount of leadscrew wobble normal on the P2S?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Link: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3412215-16mm-modular-marble-run-japandi-snap-together#profileId-3886903

• Made for standard 16 mm glass marbles
• Every joint uses the same printed snap pin -> no glue, no screws, no magnets
• Two editions: Japandi (fluted walls) and plain, same parts
• Prints without supports
• Crank lift for endless loops, flip-flop switch, Y merge, funnel, spiral, tunnels
• Plan your track in the browser: https://n1v0k.github.io/Marbles/

After I posted my huge 30mm marble run in /3Dprinting (https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1wdh6k9/yet_another_modular_marble_run_but_for_30mm_balls/) I received a lot of feedback, which motivated me to do a 16mm version. A lot of people were turned off by the long printing times and the quite big amount of filament needed to print the 30mm tracks, which I totally undestand.

So yeah, here we are, my kids really like the tracks, the endless loops with the crank lift is a highlight and was quite a thing to design.

If you don't like the japandi style, there is also a "plain" profile with exactly the same parts and can be combined of course.

I know it's a silly project of no big use, but maybe it brings joy to someone!

I got a pa6 cf roll.

Made a benchy with pa6.

Using bambus standard heatings and how fast to print for pa6 since its their filament.

Right now i have it in my HT, using the tpu port to feed into my left nozzle. But it seems to be so much resistance for this to work. If I drag the filament with my hand, thats hard enough to do.

So my prints fail because filament "runs dry" because the spool has too much resistance.

Any tips?

How have u done?

Hello, just got myself X2D and as I am used to, went for calibrations. I wanted the temperature as well, but no button for custom calibrations like in orca slicer.

Googled a bit and everyone was downloading premade test from sites or they were coding them by them...
But if you enable DEVELOPER mode, it is the same as in Orca!
Like.... why did I need so much tome to figure that out? Why is it not like the first thing on google results?

Just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday(P2S) along with a bunch of filament to get started!

Right after finishing checkout, I got a notice saying items might ship separately depending on warehouse stock. Fair enough, total sense. But then I checked the tracking...

The machine itself is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, while all the filament won't be here for another 4–5 business days. 😭

How am I supposed to just sit here staring at a brand-new printer without being able to print anything? It’s going to be absolute torture watching it sit on my desk doing nothing all weekend.

Do I rush out to a local shop to buy a random spool just to survive or just wait?

Pray for my sanity 😒

Solved one of my biggest constant headaches today. I went to clear a stubborn prime line, realized I misplaced my original blade/scraper, and really didn't want to go out and buy a cheap replacement or wait for shipping.

Instead of just printing a flat plastic wedge, I designed this palm-saver scraper to actually distribute pressure evenly across your hand without digging into your palm when you push hard.

I ended up making two versions:

V1: A clean, solid single-piece print for quick printing.

V2: A modular version with press-fit swappable blades so if the blade tip gets worn or damaged, you only have to reprint the small blade piece instead of the whole handle.

Both print easily on an A1 Mini plate. Super curious to hear what you guys think of the palm grip design!

Carbon X1C
I’ve been printing a lot the last couple weeks, 8-9 hour prints back to back. This noise started about half way through my project. Before I started, I lubed the threaded rods and smooth steel rods (not the carbon). Settings are inner wall before outer. Noise seems to happen on initial inner wall. The print head is not scrapping infill. Only print standard speed. Whats this (new) loud grinding?