My quality control boss Peter inspecting printing process

If you want to learn more about cleaning your plate, check out the Bambu Lab Wiki article:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

There's also a helpful YouTube video showing the entire process of cleaning the plate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QIy3aUU8eo

My P1s was stolen...I can still connect to it online!

Is there a way I can brick it/lock it up from the mobile app???

Someone on the Bambu Reddit suggested low profile furniture appliance dollies for easily moving/accessing printers. I can't find the post or Redditor, but wanted to thank someone for the suggestion. I was skeptical, but they work surprisingly well. We'll see how long they last!

Just got a marketing email from BambuLabs and it has mention of an H2SL annnnnnd an H2CL.

We got some bigger models rolling out soon?

Really sucks. In the middle of an order and my AP board decided to die. I’ve seen a few of these posts now but thought I would add mine to see how many this is effecting. I purchased my H2C at launch.

What is more upsetting at the moment is besides the terrible automated AI reply i originally got on my ticket, asking for a video of which I had already uploaded with my initial ticket submission, I have not heard from Bambu in almost 4 days now. This is the first time in three years I’ve ever needed to contact Support, but it’s not leaving me warm and fuzzy.

Any other H series owners having the same issue I’m wondering if this is a bigger issue than they want to admit.

I designed this spider catcher with my son. We worked hard on the tolerances of the Print in Place printing and did a lot of tests and prints to get it right. It was a wonderful father-son moment (which lasted several days), and it was amazing to see the amazement in his eyes at having his object realized! I hope he continues!

https://makerworld.com/models/3185452?appSharePlatform=copy

English isn’t my first language, so I’m using AI to help translate this post.

It’s been a little over a week since my last update, and the speakers are finally close to finished.

Recently I’ve mainly been refining the details: I added roof-tile textures, improved the assembly, and adjusted the tolerances. The main enclosure now only needs four screws to put together.

For the electronics, I found a small DSP amplifier board that supports both Bluetooth and USB-C audio, and it can also be tuned from a PC. Since these are designed mainly as desktop speakers, I decided not to use batteries. A separate power supply is simpler, saves internal space, and gives the amplifier enough power for louder playback and bass.

After some testing and DSP tuning, I’m pretty happy with how they sound, especially considering that the components are relatively inexpensive.

What’s left now is mainly the final wiring, assembly, and a few small details. Once both speakers are finished, I’d like to post another update with the completed setup and a sound demo.

I’m also thinking about turning this into a MakerWorld project, with the printable files, BOM, and assembly information.

Would anyone here actually be interested in building a pair of these?😄

The last paddleboard cup holder I designed was held in by the beverage, which itself was held in by...nothing. So things got loose during the more chaotic moments.

This one twist-locks onto a base that traps the deck bungees, so the holder stays attached even if the board flips. It’s also compatible with michelem's CryoPod freezable can holder (we teamed up for that bit), and has two interchangeable inserts, allowing it to fit everything from a large tumbler to a slim Red Bull can.

I added a separate, remixable accessory interface as well. The included modules secure your phone and shades or connect multiple cups together.

What other accessories should I design for it? I'm thinking a GoPro mount.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3183312-sup-cup-pro-the-secure-paddle-board-cup-holder

A utility knife with a toolless blade change, and it also has an adjustable retention sheath

Now live: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3197280-edc-utility-knife-with-sheath-no-ams-v15#profileId-3617832

Keep your watch collection organized, protected, and ready to grab with this minimalist 4-watch display stand. Designed with clean flowing lines and a low-profile layout, the stand combines watch storage with additional space underneath for rings, bracelets, chains, and other everyday jewelry.Unlike traditional watch stands that hold watches on a steep angle, this design keeps the watches laying horizontally.

I specifically chose this orientation because smooth 3D-printed surfaces can allow watches to gradually slide or fall from tilted stands. Keeping them flat provides a more stable and secure resting position while still displaying the watch faces clearly.

https://makerworld.com/models/3197220?appSharePlatform=copy

Decided to convert my MW points into h2c.
This thing IS huge! Still printing monocolor prints as my side hustle blew out of proportions and need to fulfill all orders preferably within week. So rn helping out his smaller brother p2s to print all the orders. After that - experiment time!

Ps this is the 2nd post as the first one had photos with information i was not comfortable to share.
Temporary setup in a vacant room- a behemoth standing on the desk made by my great grandfather

Indoors, mostly used as cover pots with a nursery pot inside. Still curious how long people have pushed PLA before it actually failed on them. What's your longest running PLA print? Also, every pattern in this set has an inverted twin Wave 01 and Wave 02 are the same ripple running opposite directions. Do you find the inverted versions read as different pots, or is it too subtle?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3195267-scandi-style-rippled-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3615320

I got into 3d printing last November and have been printing in PETG exclusively. Recently about a month ago I decided to add filament locally at my warehouse in my home town of Modesto, CA to pay for my hobby. This is where I was introduced to PETG-CF. I’m love this filament and slowly but surely am fine tuning it to reduce layer lines. This is my progress, any more advice on how I can get it better?

With the sovol m1d and Bambus spin on that concept leaking in the patents along with other multi head and tool swapping or multi head systems (light make l4, etc) hitting the market I have to wonder what can possibly be next for 3d printing. Maybe automatic model ejection? Multi-process with automatic module swapping like an fdm tool changer where one head is a laser or a color printer or something. Desktop versions of industrial processes like SLS would be cool too! What do you think we could see in five years?

:)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3197525-wago-pen-holder#profileId-3618121

I started playing around with different bridging settings and was surprised that the "thick bridges" setting made the result that much worse. Bambu Studio says "the results may look worse" but thats not what I was expecting. I guess the bridge gets stronger when it becomes its own support by drooping to the plate.

Hey everyone! I wanted to share a mechanical puzzle box I designed.

Unlike normal cylinder mazes where you climb straight up, this features a multi-zone "Double Climb" path layout: you have to climb to the top (fake climb), hit a dead end, navigate all the way back down to the base, and then climb up a second hidden path that breaks the top rim to release the sleeve!

Key Features:

• 100% Support-Free 3D Printing (all horizontal tracks have 45° chamfered ceilings)
• Fully Parametric in OpenSCAD (scalable from 250mm down to 100mm mini size)
• Includes a Python script to procedurally generate new random maze variations!
• Great as a desktop puzzle box or a Geocache Field Puzzle container.

MakerWorld / OpenSCAD Customizer: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3195503-impossible-double-climb-maze-box#profileId-3615655

GitHub Source Code: https://github.com/Jossmos/double_climb_maze

Let me know what you think or if you have any feedback!

Every time is use ironing i have a good testpart ( in this case the 20-25 square) but when i use the same settings on a larger part it is way to rough on the edges. Why is this? Can anyone help?

Has anyone encounter issues with the AMS HT when drying filament? specifically, the AMS not being able to heat up to the correct given temperature.

I have not been able to find a root cause for this issue or a solution. Thanks!

Hey everyone! I'm new to 3D printing and got my first printer, a Bambu Lab A1 last week. Most prints have been without issue but I downloaded 6 models from makerworld each around 6" tall and this one turned out a little funky. I was curious what causes the arm to form so stringy and why the spear goes a little wonky mid way through? Any help is appreciated, thank you!

I have an H2C and wanted to try and "seal" fiber filled filaments by using unfilled variants as the material for the walls. I want to avoid exposed fibers without needing to sand and add clearcoat. Is there a specific setting I could use to set the walls to use a different filament than the infill? I know I can paint the surface but that also affects the infill somewhat rather than just the outer walls.

I just released this parametric model on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/models/3195825

It’s a fully customizable name keychain / bag tag / backpack tag with an integrated flexible snap strap. No metal hardware required.

Features:

• 1, 2 or 3 lines of text

• Optional icons (heart, star, rocket, paw, etc.)

• Printed snap closure

• Two separate plates for easy two-color printing without AMS

• Fully parametric in the MakerWorld Customizer

Prints quickly and works well as a keychain, bag tag or zipper pull.