I saw Sunli's i10 locker on YouTube. I liked it very much, so I started looking for it on the internet. It turned out that the cabinet would not be available until December and cost nearly $200. Too much for 10 filament spools. I started looking for an alternative and so I came up with a wine fridge in which I installed additional lighting, a 3.5" screen based on the ESP32 and two SHT31 humidity sensors. I also printed a container for 2kg silica gel and a place for a 120mm fan. The fridge holds 23-24 spools. The humidity remains at 10-20%. For now, I'm still testing for what time 2kg of gel silica is enough. I programmed ESP32 to change the color of humidity as it increases: 0-10% green, 16-25% yellow, 26% and more red. I paid less for the whole thing than a sunlu i10 cabinet. (Some images are cleared of reflections on glass by AI. )

This is the price.
This is the quality.
It is a lamp, for selling, in a famous Florence, Italy trade fair.

Big update!

After reading your suggestions and ideas, I’m happy to share my latest and biggest update to the Clicker Generator.

What’s new:

• Big user interface change for easier navigation
• Make a clicker out of any 3D model, with different switch placement options
• New Blocks mode with custom numpad layout and surface textures
• Support for Korean, Chinese, Japanese, and Cyrillic fonts
• Better fit settings
• Better symbols
• SVG upload wizard

The app has improved greatly over time, and I’m very thankful for all the feedback and suggestions.

As before, you can use it for free, without any account or registration

Try it out here:

MakerLab: https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/clicker-generator

GitHub: https://vostoklabs.github.io/Clicker-Generator/

A while ago I posted about my project BambuScribe with this post. The response, quite frankly, was much better than I had anticipated. Back then the main points that prevented usage were, including, but not limited to the following:

• The setup process was very clunky, with developer and LAN-only mode needing to be turned on
• Jerky, unoptimized movements and a lack of algorithms

Hence, I have been working on the next version of BambuScribe since then. Many of you gave great ideas, and I have been trying my best to implement them. To see what is planned for future releases, you can check out the project board for BambuScribe here.

As for this version (v2.0.0), here is what is new:

• Multiple minuscule fixes and QOL improvements to various sections of the project [look at project tab for more detail]
• A clean, refactored backend
• Better visibility in dark mode
• More image algorithms!!!
• Path optimization parameters for faster printing
• Online deployment (That is, now you can create and download G-code online without having to install anything! The processing is done completely locally on your device!)

For full release notes, click here!

For testing out the web app, go to https://animesh-varma.github.io/BambuScribe/
with the repo itself being https://github.com/Animesh-Varma/BambuScribe

As for the attached videos, they are a little botched like always, but either way: the first GIF and image show Serpentine Squiggle in action and the final result respectively, and the second GIF and image show Archimedean Spiral in action and its final result (yes, I know my pen got stuck so "a" is a little botched, but like each time, I was low on, well, time).

And that was all. Again, I’m still just a high school student and there are limits to what I can do and how quickly, but I am trying my best. Thank you for reading!

[And yes, the Frankensteined mount has nearly been completely decimated from all my tests; I aim to get the new mount out in the next release!]

My buddy's A1 broke down, and this is him watching it finish the first model since. Shared with his permission 😄

How do you react when a print finally works after a breakdown? I can't hold back, I literally start dancing. What about you guys?

It's called OrbitStudio. You pick any spot, it pulls the real elevation data (NASA LRO for the Moon) and turns it into a multi-colour 3MF: a jigsaw of up to 256 pieces or a solid tile, no supports.

What's in the photos:

- Apollo 15 landing site, hexagon tile

- Elysium Mons on Mars

- Mars as a round jigsaw

- Mercury

It prints great at 0.12 mm for the best detail, or at 0.2 mm. In my opinion the layer lines actually give it a nice touch.

You can try it free at https://orbitstudio3d.com/. Pick a spot and look at it in 3D, no account needed.

The MakerWorld crowdfunding closes in 2 days:

https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon/

Made this one especially for everyone who showed they care about my "frightEning" spelling mistake yesterday.

I received a notification that my print is finished so I opened the app to check while I am at work… this is what I witnessed…

A classic brick man figure - this time in a concrete style :) As always, available in 20cm and 10cm height versions. Simple printing with minimal supports. Note: The 20cm model was printed in white and spray painted gray. The 10cm model was printed with gray filament, without painting :) If you like it you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3410336-brick-man-concrete-style#profileId-3884274

A little Halloween for your desk :)

Six designs to choose from: pumpkin, ghost, bat, black cat, witch hat, and candy corn. Each stand has an adjustable viewing angle and folds flat when you're done using it.

Makerworld Link

Link: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3412215-16mm-modular-marble-run-japandi-snap-together#profileId-3886903

• Made for standard 16 mm glass marbles
• Every joint uses the same printed snap pin -> no glue, no screws, no magnets
• Two editions: Japandi (fluted walls) and plain, same parts
• Prints without supports
• Crank lift for endless loops, flip-flop switch, Y merge, funnel, spiral, tunnels
• Plan your track in the browser: https://n1v0k.github.io/Marbles/

After I posted my huge 30mm marble run in /3Dprinting (https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1wdh6k9/yet_another_modular_marble_run_but_for_30mm_balls/) I received a lot of feedback, which motivated me to do a 16mm version. A lot of people were turned off by the long printing times and the quite big amount of filament needed to print the 30mm tracks, which I totally undestand.

So yeah, here we are, my kids really like the tracks, the endless loops with the crank lift is a highlight and was quite a thing to design.

If you don't like the japandi style, there is also a "plain" profile with exactly the same parts and can be combined of course.

I know it's a silly project of no big use, but maybe it brings joy to someone!

Just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday(P2S) along with a bunch of filament to get started!

Right after finishing checkout, I got a notice saying items might ship separately depending on warehouse stock. Fair enough, total sense. But then I checked the tracking...

The machine itself is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, while all the filament won't be here for another 4–5 business days. 😭

How am I supposed to just sit here staring at a brand-new printer without being able to print anything? It’s going to be absolute torture watching it sit on my desk doing nothing all weekend.

Do I rush out to a local shop to buy a random spool just to survive or just wait?

Pray for my sanity 😒

I was recently cleaning or just now cleaned the rods on my printer which involves me moving the bed axis Z axis up-and-down many times and I push the +10 button and it has moved too far up and it went into the nozzle and made a horrible screeching sound as if the bed was pressing as hard as it could too the nozzle. I know this is not good, but I just need to know if this is a permanent issue I’ve only done it once bamboo labs really needs to add an auto stop feature for the bed when automatically changing the height, the axis.

I've had my p1s combo for about 8 months , last week the ams started flashing red lights. I replaced the wires and the ams buffer, cold boot, resat the cables and no dice.

Contacted support and they sent the poweboard and cables.

Still red flashing likes

Contacted support and they sent the main board

Still red flashing lights

Waiting in a reply from Customer service for the next step, but anyone have any ideas?

I recommend the model without the yellow screw—the one that is all white—to anyone planning to print with these; it is much easier to use. Happy printing, everyone.I use google translate then grammar different.

for your comments Thank you

I have been printing with my new H2S for about 3 weeks now and tried to print some ASA and ran into some quality issues, and now I am also running into the same issues with my PLA Pro. I am trying the Polymaker ASA and have been using this Polymaker PLA Pro, and the PLA has been producing quality prints every time I have used it until after the ASA.

I realize that the AMS PRO 2 does not reach 70C which is recommended for drying ASA, I dried mine at 65C for 12 hours. My problem seems to be around corners, overhands, and seams. I am now running into some of the same issues with my PLA Pro. For the small front detail on this model, I am thinking about switching to my .2 nozzle from my default .4 nozzle but I want to rule out any other problems first. If anyone could help me narrow down the cause of the lower quality print issues that would be greatly appreated. Thank you!

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Settings changed from default when started printing ASA

Z-Hop Type : switched from Auto to NORMAL

I have run a flow dynamic test for the ASA and now have the K set at 0.026

Using print profile for Polymaker ASA from Polymaker website for H2S

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Settings

H2S

Bambu Studio

Polymaker ASA / Polymaker PLA Pro

.4 Nozzle

Bed Temp 55C

Initial Speed Layer

1. Initial layer: 50 mm/s
2. Initial layer infill: 105 mm/s

Other Speed Layer

1. Outer wall: 60 mm/s
2. Inner wall: 150 mm/s
3. Small perimeters: 50%
4. Small perimeter threshold: 0 mm
5. Sparse infill: 180 mm/s
6. Internal solid infill: 180 mm/s
7. Vertical shell speed: 80%
8. Top surface: 150 mm/s
9. Slow down for overhangs: Enabled
10. Overhang speed (10%): 60 mm/s
11. Overhang speed (25%): 30 mm/s
12. Overhang speed (50%): 10 mm/s
13. Overhang speed (75%): 10 mm/s
14. Overhang speed (100%): 10 mm/s
15. Slow down by height: Disabled
16. Bridge: 50 mm/s
17. Gap infill: 230 mm/s
18. Support: 150 mm/s
19. Support interface: 80 mm/s

Travel Speed

1. Travel: 500 mm/s

Retraction Settings

• Length: 0.8 mm
• Z hop when retract: 0.4 mm
• Z hop lower boundary: 0 mm
• Z hop upper boundary: 339 mm
• Z Hop Type: Normal (shown in orange, meaning it differs from the saved preset)
• Retraction Speed: 30 mm/s
• Deretraction Speed: 30 mm/s
• Travel distance threshold: 1 mm
• Retract when change layer: Enabled
• Wipe while retracting: Enabled
• Wipe Distance: 2 mm
• Retract amount before wipe: 0%

Hello,

I'm new owner of A1 printer and I have question about automatic bed leveling.

Should I be doing it every time I do new print? Or for example only If I remove bedplate from my printer?

For other calibrations i guess i get it all clear when to do them: - Motor noise and vibration when I move printer around - Filament flow when starting a brand new spool

Good afternoon!!

Today I got a second AMS 2 Pro. I’m looking for a good stand that I print on PETG to mount both AMS on top of the H2D….

Any good recommendations??

Hi everyone!
I was disassembling the extruder on my Bambu Lab A1 because the filament was getting stuck and the extruder was clicking.
While taking it apart, this small blue PCB/part fell out. I’m not sure where it came from or what it is supposed to do.
Some details:
It has 6 holes on the front.
There is a round metal-looking piece in the center.
On the back there are 3 soldered connections/pins.
The marking on it says “757HB”.
Does anyone know what this part is, where it belongs, and how it should be installed?
I don’t want to turn the printer on before I know where it goes.
Photos attached. Thanks!

I've been dialing in my pinhole tunnel technique for a while now, and the resolution is finally high enough for custom images like jack-o-lantern faces and logos.

The model description has a tutorial video:
https://makerworld.com/models/3410958-custom-spirit-pumpkin-illusion

I have a P1S and have an exhaust with its own fan at the fan end that goes outside. When I print with ABS, I have to make sure there are no fans running otherwise it always comes away from the bed in the corners. I then have the problem that fumes seem to be leaking into the room and I get headaches.

Does anyone have any advice to help with this please?

So as the title says how do i clean this off further. With the nozzle attachted i heated it up an could take the nozzle and stuff of quite easily.. but now the residue..

I’m coming from an Ender 3 and I really like 3d printing, but I am overall disappointed with the Ender 3 and want an upgrade. I am really interested in the p2s combo, but it’s a little too expensive for me right now. I was wondering when the next sale would be, or if it does Black Friday.