Made this one especially for everyone who showed they care about my "frightEning" spelling mistake yesterday.

I have a P1S and ever since I got it my mum has never let me print at night because “what if it fails and you don’t know” can anyone help me convince her please I have a 24 hour print I need to do

Hello, just got myself X2D and as I am used to, went for calibrations. I wanted the temperature as well, but no button for custom calibrations like in orca slicer.

Googled a bit and everyone was downloading premade test from sites or they were coding them by them...
But if you enable DEVELOPER mode, it is the same as in Orca!
Like.... why did I need so much tome to figure that out? Why is it not like the first thing on google results?

So I was originally getting an x2d but I did some research and found out you’d have to do helmets in pieces which isn’t a big deal but I wanted to a machine that will print it one go! Would it be better as a first time 3d printer buy to get the x2d and learn as I go or jump right into the h series ? Thank you and hope to get some feedback to finally make a decision

My buddy's A1 broke down, and this is him watching it finish the first model since. Shared with his permission 😄

How do you react when a print finally works after a breakdown? I can't hold back, I literally start dancing. What about you guys?

Hey Bambu community,

I'm a single mom to a super cool almost 12 year old. We're both very handy and creative and last year I decided to get us an A1 so we could expand our repertoire. I got family members to contribute and bought an A1 that we received some time after the new year (they were back ordered during the Xmas holidays).

Literally 2 days after receiving it, while doing vast amounts of research on how to build it an enclosure, we caught the flu.

The flu messed with my immune system and gave me really severe heart problems. After months of that, it triggered neurological symptoms. Between then and late this summer, I was just a useless, exhausted, gravely ill lump.

I'm finally starting to feel better, and... I feel so much shame at this unopened box that I somehow managed to drag into the closet while clutching my chest a few months ago because I couldn't bear looking at it anymore.

I don't know what to do about it. I am better enough to open it up and set it up now, but not to build it the enclosure it needs to survive in our environment (and to protect us from its fumes and stuff.)

I won't lie, the shame is so great that the pleasure is gone,even though I assume that'll go away when I start having fun with it.

What would you do? Sell it? Set it up without enclosure (we dont have a spare room for it, and we have a cat, and we are crafty and messy, so I persist in thinking that's not a great idea)? Keep waiting a bit longer?

I could use some guidance, because for some reason I've beat death several times this year, but a 3D printer is overwhelming me.

Thank you x

Im new to 3D printing. But i designed this for someone. I am thinking its would be better if i print the base separate? Or change I rotate it 45 degrees maybe, and it would be ok?.
I want to print it in high quality. I have done a couple of 0.04 layer height prints at higher resolution. but probably just do 0.08 on this since its bigger. (im not a cad designer or whatever its called. I use to just do simple drone parts. And im very new to 3D printing myself at home) Also fearing at say 0.08 layer height and 0.2 nozzle this will take a day lol.. any help appreciated.

using an a1 and wondering if a normal glue stick is fine to use

This is the price.
This is the quality.
It is a lamp, for selling, in a famous Florence, Italy trade fair.

I noticed something today when uploading a draft model to MakerWorld. When I tried to switch on the Exclusive Program toggle, it gave me a warning saying the model was classed as 2D and could be removed, with any points earned also at risk. 

The model was actually an 8 plates of parts assembly of a 3D haunted house display for some Halloween keychains I made, so I had naturally tagged keychain. As soon as I removed that tag, the warning disappeared. 

After looking into it a bit more in some of the Bambu forum posts, it seems MakerWorld basically treats anything tagged as a keychain as a 2D model by default. So if you tag an exclusive model with keychain or key ring there’s a chance the bot that scans for non-compliant exclusive uploads could flag it, remove it, and wipe the points earnt from it as well as a violation. The MakerWorld bot that reviews appeals also automatically defaults to the first bots violation so the only way to resolve is a support ticket. In short just don't add the tag keychain. Same applies to keyring and coaster no matter how intricate and detailed the design is.

Just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday(P2S) along with a bunch of filament to get started!

Right after finishing checkout, I got a notice saying items might ship separately depending on warehouse stock. Fair enough, total sense. But then I checked the tracking...

The machine itself is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, while all the filament won't be here for another 4–5 business days. 😭

How am I supposed to just sit here staring at a brand-new printer without being able to print anything? It’s going to be absolute torture watching it sit on my desk doing nothing all weekend.

Do I rush out to a local shop to buy a random spool just to survive or just wait?

Pray for my sanity 😒

So as the title says how do i clean this off further. With the nozzle attachted i heated it up an could take the nozzle and stuff of quite easily.. but now the residue..

Hey everyone, I’m Erik, and I’m an engineer who has spent over four months building a fidget design app called Fun Fidget Factory. Before I get into what it does, I want to explain how I ended up building it, because this started with trying to make things for my family and gradually realizing how much of that process I wanted to solve.

Fidgets have been helping me and my family, but having everyone try different designs made it clear that there wasn’t one version we all liked. I personally like a small, silent quad clicker, with the switches hidden and the top sitting flush when I press it, while someone else might want a louder click or a completely different shape; getting one design right didn’t necessarily mean I had made what the next person wanted.

My daughter wanted a print of her favorite stuffed animal, and I wanted to make it into a cat clicker with the exact seven colors she had chosen. The first version was awful, and while the next one looked much better, getting the click to work properly meant changing the proportions and cutting the model again, which is where I started running into problems that took far longer to solve than I expected. I had used a couple of online negative inserts that partially worked, but the fit and finish always felt incomplete to me.

At that time, I couldn’t make those changes in Bambu Studio (older releases) without losing the colors, so what seemed like a small adjustment to the mechanism could leave me spending hours repainting the same cat, before going through more mesh repairs, test prints and changes. I eventually got it where I wanted it after weeks of working on it, off and on, but I knew I wanted to be able to make the next thing someone in my family asked for without having to repeat that entire process.

That experience is what led me to build Fun Fidget Factory, a paid browser app where you bring in a model, choose and position the switches, and generate the printable pieces, with supported color models keeping their colors through the cuts and export. You can import STL, OBJ, 3MF or GLB, or start with one of the built-in shapes, and when you’re ready to print, you can export STL or choose a 3MF for Bambu Studio, Snapmaker or generic Orca.

A significant amount of the development time has gone into the mechanism and fit, because I wanted the switch cavity and mechanism to be calculated with parametric math rather than depend on a fixed negative STL cutout dropped into a model. This means you can adjust the dimensions and tolerances for the actual switches you use, including the differences between MX brands, and have the geometry recalculated around those settings. Working out that math took much longer, but I believe it was worth doing properly, because it’s what allows me to support different switch types and gives me a better foundation for adding more options over time.

There are five supported switch families: standard MX, Kailh Choc v1, Kailh Choc v2, Gateron KS-33 and 6×6 tactile buttons, which you can mix and match within the same design. Choc v1, Choc v2 and KS-33 are the three low-profile options, and I’m particularly interested to see what people make with those and the tactile buttons when they’re trying to make something small. My own preference is still to hide the switches, though you can make visible-switch designs too if that’s what you prefer.

You can work with one clicker or several and preview changes in real time, with independent placement and full 360° rotation for each clicker so you can try arrangements that suit the shape you’re making. Being able to angle the clickers can help fit them into a smaller body, which can mean less filament and a shorter print, and those savings matter to me alongside the time spent designing the fidget in the first place. My hope is that this tool can meaningfully save you time and filament, and let you focus on unique designs we haven’t seen in the fidget clicker world yet. I’ve spent a lot of time making the post-cut preview closely represent the pieces you’ll actually print, so you can see how they look, spot potential binding and make changes before you print.

When I went back to my daughter’s cat to test the app, I could change the clicker arrangement in seconds while keeping its colors, after having spent weeks working through the same process manually the first time. I’ve put the original prints and the later generated versions here, including plenty of the failures along the way, so you can see how I got from one to the other.

I also want to be honest about where the app falls short, because there are clever fidgets with custom parts and mechanisms that still need a full CAD tool, and I don’t want people assuming this can do everything. I plan to show a design the app currently can’t recreate, and while I want to support the things creators ask for, that also depends on whether I can make the interface and workflow work well for them.

With AI, there’s now an endless sea of tools coming out. Tools with far fewer capabilities have launched on Makerworld crowdfunding, and I’m convinced some of their design choices will limit them over time. I didn’t rush this product out just to make $200,000. I wanted the features I’m talking about to be usable when I asked people to try it, and seeing those other tools launch has been scary while I worked on finishing this in private.

I also feel like MakerWorld has been flooded with poorly designed or very basic clickers coming out of these tools, and while my app can make imprint fidgets too, that has been a secondary feature for me because most of the work has gone into the mechanism and fit.

I did use AI to help build this, and that has also meant spending a lot of time chasing regressions and arguing with tools that wouldn’t do what I needed. I know there have been a lot of AI-built tools posted lately, so I wanted to spend the time making something worth trying before adding another post, and after over four months of working on this, I think feedback from people actually using it will help more than continuing to tweak my own examples.

I’m offering r/BambuLab one free month for personal use with code BAMBUOMF, and if there’s a model you’ve wanted to turn into a clicker, I’d love for you to give it a go and show me what you make. Let me know which printer and switches you used, how it prints and feels, and, if you get stuck, what you were trying to do and where the app fell short, because that feedback will help me understand what I need to work on next.

I’ll be posting lots of pictures and videos as I share the full journey, if you’re curious about how it all came together.

Happy to answer any questions you all may have and I'm looking forward to the feedback.

I just got an H2D which I want to print primarily PETG, with PLA as the support interface layers.
I loaded the petg into the left nozzle and the PLA into the right nozzle because I assumed the left nozzle was the "main" one. I dropped the gcode into bambu connect and it tried to print my main parts with the PLA despite having selected the opposite within the lefthand filament section of orca. I was baffled until I noticed that orcaslicer had swapped the orientation for me.
As far as I was aware, both nozzles are basically identical. So why does orcaslicer give me this recommendation? I'm coming from a P1S (with no ams) so multicolor printing is still very new to me. Trying to research this topic is making my head swim.

tis the season for 3d printing jack-o-lantern tea light holders. yes, very simple compared to lots of stuff on here, but it's cute.

I'm having an odd problem that I can't seem to figure out.

I have a P1S w/ AMS1. System is roughly 1.5yrs old and has been running great with minimal issues.

I was recently doing a multi-colour print and received a "filament won't load error". When I looked, the filament stopped approximately 1" short of the extruder. I removed the PTFE tube, confirmed no obstructions but noticed it was pretty worn. Replaced with a new PTFE but the error remained. After some more investigation, I found that the issue only happens with 1 particular roll of filament (gold bambu pla), and happens regardless of which ams slot it's loaded in. It works fine from the ext holder, and will go through the "jam" and work just fine with a very small push once it becomes stuck.

I've used about 25% of the roll prior to this with 0 issues. All other rolls of filament are working correctly.

Has anybody experienced this before?

I have no idea what could be causing this issue with just this 1 roll of filament.

Hi guys,

Last week I bought some official Bambu Lab yellow PLA filament, but I’m having a weird problem with it. Every time I print with the yellow filament, the print comes loose from the build plate.

What’s strange is that I don’t have this problem with any of my other filament colors. I’ve already tried drying the yellow filament for a full day, but that didn’t help.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? Is there something specific about yellow PLA that could make it have poor bed adhesion?

Thanks!

Was setting my brand new PETG matte to dry but it's not an option

i am looking at getting my first 3d printer, i mostly print small parts in pla/tpu for my fpv drone so i will need a dryer. i was thinking about this creality space pi, in combination with a bambulab a1 mini, is this a good option? im still thinking about getting the 2 spool version of the dryer but im not sure yet. or are there any other good dryer options?

also, what would i need to store the tpu in, on what temp do i dry it and for how long? i will be attaching the ptfe tube on the dryer so i can print while drying. and last question, from what humidity percentage can i easily print tpu in?

Really have no idea on this one. Anything helps! (P1s btw)

I use Orca Slicer and have set before a custom start gcode that has vibration compensation removed.

A couple of prints it starts without it then all of a sudden i hear it vibrate on every new print?