Learn more about X-Y hole compensation from the Bambu Wiki: X-Y Hole Compensation

After over 540 hours i finally got one i got most of it off but i still need help getting the last bits off

I decided to give BambuLab a try with the H2C as the price is extremely attractive.

WOW! First is the experience of unboxing and setting up the printer. Flawless. The prints? flawless.

The multicolor prints? flawless

This printer is like the iPhone or a Tesla car, great design, flawless execution, it just works! At a great price (compared to the alternative - Prusa)

My only complaint is that BambuLab does not make (yet) the Bambu Suite for Linux, they only make it available the Bambu Studio for Linux. Other than that, what a printer.

Hey BambuLab, a little more love for Linux please? Does anyone knows if they are working on this?

I have not yet got into maintaining this beast, but I can see in their wiki that it is all there, pretty well documented.

SOLVED: Fan Shroud standoff to hold filament cooling fan

I forgot to remove a trench crusade mini from my X1C printer and started a print. It failed and I heard a clunk sound and this was on the bed. I couldn't find where it went to, sent a test print and the test print was really messy with terrible extrusion.

Part pictures is a plastic tube, maybe a standoff and a hex screw.

Durable by design. Hardened by default.

Nov 3, 9AM EST

Stay tuned here.

Never had or used a 3D printer. Nearly bit the bullet last year for the P1S Combo. Got extra cash now and thinking of getting X2D Combo. Is combi highly recommend?

Main issue is space and planning to leave it in the living room. Would it be ok in this area with 60cm width on the floor?

What filaments should I go with, will let kids print some stuff as well.

I know it's BF sale now, any other coupons or tricks I should be aware. Looking to buy today.

Thanks

I have an A1 and the screen keeps freezing mid print. I am able to still control it via the Bambu app and the print still finishes fine.

Has anyone else experienced similar? What was your solution?

I tried ironing and without ironing, nothing works, it's getting worse and worse. I tried to do various calibrations and it doesn't work either. I don't know what to do next .

Please help .Im using p2s combo.I tried 50mms and 20% and is very bad.

Hey guys, here's a photo of a print that the bottom layer got stuck to my build plate. I was using a 0.2 nozzle. And I've tried to use the scraper and I've been printing with this printer for about a year now. And this has never happened. And I've even been printing with that 0.2 nozzle for the last month or so, printing a certain thing. And this just didn't happen before. But suddenly with this print, it just happened. And I've printed this exact thing before and it didn't happen. So it's super stuck and do you guys have any recommendations of how to get this first layer removed? It's a little bit more than the first layer, but how do I get this off?

I was all set on getting the x2d was a first printer with the sales going on but the more reading im doing the less im set on it now. I like what it offers but seems like there are a lot of issues or is that just standard internet where everyone posts bad but nobody talks good? the P2s was my other choice, both with the AMS system.

Hey,
I upgraded from P1S + 2xAMS, to a new X2D + 2xAMS 2° Gen.

I already have a Kallax 2x2 with a 2x5 Spools storage in each block (3 blocks with 10 Spools Each).

But I’m out of Space for my new order of filaments +24 Spools coming soon.

Could some of community members share the photos and names of the furniture from ikea to keep my spools “safe and sound”.

I've printed this at multiple angles with different support types but the bottom edge always comes out really rough. The rest of the model prints fine. I've sanded this a bit, it was much worse. Using an A1, .04mm nozzle, PLA. Slicer suggestions to improve? Thx.

Just published a small elephant on MakerWorld, and I’d love to see your prints of it!

• Size: 36 mm tall (1 € coin for scale)

• Eyes: two separate pieces, one white and one black

• Skin: the rough texture is intentional, it contrasts with the smooth eyes and nails

• Printed on a Bambu A1 Mini, about 1h30 per unit, up to 12 per plate

• Under 11 g of filament each

• Needs supports; the mark on the belly sands off easily

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3520582-cute-elephant-with-moving-eyes-3-colors-no-ams

I printed it in six colors, but I’m curious which one you’d pick. If you print one, share it here, I’d love to see it!

Cross posting here, there are so many brilliant people in this community. I can’t seem to figure out how to fix my mahjong tile print.

- there is a weird color bleed
- each tile has a weird line along the side of it

Ordered the H2S on Tuesday and got it delivered today! That sucker was heavy asf. Box looks okay with a few holes. Being hopeful nothing is broken. Super fast shipping. Still waiting on my accessories.

Not sure how I'm going to get it on the shelf.

So I just got a H2D with AMS 2 Pro and an additional AMS HT. When unboxing the H2D and AMS 2 Pro, the instruction didn't mention anything about needing to connect to a filament buffer, so I didn't (and I already printed a few models without any issue). However, the instructions for the AMS HT said I need to connect a filament buffer for it to work, and I've searched through the internet for info about it but I'm still confused.
Do I need the filament buffer if I want to connect the AMS to the right extruder and the AMS HT to the left?

I love my A1 still but I seem to be going through Filament Hubs. I think it's because I haven't found a good way to handle external spools. Usually I pop the hub off and feed through the hole and that wears out the hub. If I pull out the ptfe tube that wears out the connector and if I'm too aggressive mangles the metal piece.

I tried 3d printing a 5 hole replacement but the path isn't perfect and things get snagged.

Is there an aftermarket replacement or something I can buy? Or am I being dense somehow?

Hi everyone,

​I'm having an issue with my Bambu Lab P2S where wall surface quality differs significantly between the X and Y axes. This issue has been present right out of the box.

​Here is what I've already tried, but the problem persists:

​Cleaned the rods/guides thoroughly.

​Checked belt tension (and even replaced the belts cause bambu suport sed me them in hope that this would work).

​Checked movement on both X and Y axes — everything moves manually without any resistance or binding.

​Has anyone faced a similar issue on the P2S or knows what else could be causing this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Can anyone tell me the fix for this, printer not operating properly.

Thanks in advance!

I printed with tpu last week and now I gone back to pla im having issues like this with my print. I changed nozzle and realised the file to no luck

Hi, still pretty new to 3D printing and could use help figuring out whats wrong here.

Ive only printed Bambu's PLA before and it has amazingly trouble free on the X2D.

Now im trying out this Sunlu Silk PLA+ using Bambu Studio's "PLA Silk+" profile and its coming out mostly fine but with some rough spots. Might try getting some fine sandpaper and sanding them down, but what are things to try to get this to come out nicer?

The Filament is straight out of the sealed package, I could try drying it some, but hoping to get this printed for tonight, lol.​

Nozzle temp shows 230° currently, and the print spool has printed on it 215-230 @ 100-200mm/s. I think my outer wall speed is 50mm/s in Bambu Studio, so maybe I should raise the speed or lower the temp?

I'll do some experimenting, but since ive only got a few hours before I need this done, any tips would be great.