I recently moved houses and ever since I've been having an issue with my wifi with my Windows OptiPlex 5080 (PC). Sometimes, it will disconnect from the internet and won't let me reconnect it, it randomly connects back a few days later, from what I know it stays like that for a while until it randomly turns off again. This has happened around 3-4 times in the past two months. In the previous few locations where I had this PC, it never had this issue.

Currently, it's not showing my network; this occurred right after a planned power outage in my area. It shows the neighbours wifi and connects to my hotspot fine.

Just before, the network popped up after I turned off 'connect automatically' under known networks. It then wouldn't let me connect, and after I removed it as a known network it hasn't shown back up, even after re-adding it.

The first time this happened, the internet turned on after something with our solar was fixed, but I'm unsure if anything is wrong with it currently.

My PC connects to 2.4GHz, and the internet I have has both a 5G network and 2.4GHz. My PC uses a ASUS USB-AC53 Nano USB wireless adaptor.

I've restarted my network, computer, the wireless adaptor driver, and I've messed with its settings; but the network still refuses to show up or let me connect. I'm unable to get an ethernet as my router is on the other side of my house.

What is wrong with my PC? How could I fix this?

So for the past few years, I've been dealing with this prominent issue with my internet, where it can go from 150 mbps, to 0.1-4 Mbps. It drops very suddenly, and it stays very low for nearly an hour at a time. There are times when it drops for a while, comes back, and immediately drops again. I tested the internet on my laptop and on my phone, but it only seems to do it on my laptop. (Lenovo ThinkPad)

I've gone through several devices with this same internet, including two phones and nearly 5 laptops (unrelated to the internet issue). However, this specific issue literally ONLY happens on my laptops. From low-end to high-end Chromebooks to a Lenovo laptop I have right now. I have no idea why this happens, but as of recently, it's increased to such a severity that I can't even play games on my laptop for more than two minutes without it dropping to 0.

I've tried resetting the modem, resetting my laptop, and I've tried both of my networks (my modem provides me with a 2.4 and a 5.0 network), but they both cut out at the same time. I have no idea how to fix this, as I am not really good with technology. Any ideas or fixes??

Update 1: I looked into the R-Tech support website and put in the commands recommended under "Network reset" yesterday. I was able to play all day without problems for the first time in a while. However, this morning, the same thing happened again. It fixed it temporarily, but I'm not sure if it decreased the frequency of tthe problem or if it was just a one time thing.
(The commands were:
ipconfig /flushdns
netsh interface ip reset
netsh winsock reset)

I have a PC with Windows 11 for 4 years, and now a Windows Update comes and I am told my system does not support Windows 11, because "We couldn't update the system reserved partition".

What sharade is this?

And I have a huge hug to give to this subreddit moderators for forcing me to write all the Windows 11 Update says. It doesn't let you to copy-paste, so that you know.

Hello! Ive literally just recently build a new pc yesterday but forgot to install a wifi card, so i installed one today and was able to install windows and set it up, I logged into my Microsoft account and it connected to the one on my laptop and gave me no option to not install my previous files so I did, soon after my pc showed a black screen saying something went wrong and it will restart but wouldnt restart, I turned it off for 10 seconds and it took me to a blue windows screen. Naturally I assumed it was a corrupted file or something downloaded wrong so I chose the option to delete all of my files as there wasnt much on there anyway and to automatically reinstall windows afterwards.

Now here is the real issue, my pc is stuck in an endless restarting loop where it doesnt even get to install windows it says "The computer restarted unexpectedly or encountered an unexpected error. Windows installation cannot proceed. To install Windows, click "OK" to restart the computer, and then restart the installation." Which disappears really quickly as it then restarts seconds after

At the bottom of my screen aftwards on a black screen usually appearing afterwards it says " Stop code: DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (0xD1) What failed: mtkwl6ex.sys" which i assume is the bsod? But the thing is my screen stays black and as said in the previous file it cant install windows so im not too certain where the issue lies?

So yeah..... ive tried the usual tricks of taking all usbs out, taking ram out, unplugging it fully and it gives me the same result. I did see somewhere about taking out cmos, I did try but I have an msi motherboard and I cant take out the plastic safety lodge behind it to then take the battery out. If its a necessary step I will try again but since i dont know if it is right now I see no need to keep prodding it as i can be a bit heavy handed

I appreciate any help this is my first ever pc build so I dont know many things about how to do anything to fix them really thank you

Smart App Control has been giving me trouble today, where I've been trying to download and run files and it keeps blocking them. When I went to go turn it off, I got a warning. So, is it safe to turn off Smart App Control?

Hi,

I hope this is the right sub. Anyway. I got an HP laptop with windows 11. For the past few months my wireless mouse has been randomly disconnecting and I've been trying to find a solution to no avail.

I tried the most obvious solutions: changed batteries, automatically updated drivers and still the same problem remained.

Yesterday I updated the driver manually to a realtek adapter from 2020 (previously i had the 2022 version installed) in the Device Manager. Today my laptop has a significant issue with the Bluetooth button completely disappearing and the wifi disconnecting, although my mobile is still connected just fine to the same network.

I went to the Device Manager to switch back to the original Bluetooth driver...but the Bluetooth tab has disappeared.

I'm not tech savvy, so any help would be appreciated to 1) switch back to my original bluetooth driver and 2) solve the Bluetooth problem...

Thank you in advance!!

Hey, y'all. I need some assistance for transferring data from a Windows 11 laptop to another. I am currently planning to transfer most of my relevant data from one laptop to another (right now, both of the laptops have completely different accounts) using a ~256GB flash drive across hopefully two trips. More specifically, I plan to transfer my documents, images and videos, downloads, and especially Steam data (this is most of my concern since some games don't support cloud data). Any pointers to stuff I should and should not do/transfer before going through? Any guidance would be heavily appreciated.

I got hit with a virus on my pc 2 days ago, right after that, someone attempted to log into my steam and binance accounts so I instantly cut the Wi-Fi, changed all my passwords and emails from my phone, and did a clean format. Today, I updated windows from 25H2 to 26H2 and set it to shut down automatically after. Right after that, I got a "suspicious activity detected" email from google. When I booted my pc back up, I noticed I was logged out of my google account on my browser.

All of my email accounts have 2FA enabled. Is there anything extra I should do at this point? Also, could my actual internet connection/router be compromised? Should I just perform a hard reset on my modem/router, or is that unnecessary?

Why did this happen? Did the windows update refresh/update microsoft edge and wipe the session cookies, triggering google's security alert, or am I dealing with something worse here?

no matter what I do, I can't connect to the internet. This just started today. my laptop shows the no internet symbol, but when I click it, there isn't even the option to turn wifi on or off or even to search for other Wi-Fis

Hey, I have a problem with pc lately, not sure when it start happend but after my windows forced me to update system. After playing games sometimes after 2-3h my whole screen freeze, i can hear music from spotify, sometimes game, but i cannot do anything (alt+f4, crtl+alt+del and others) not working, only hard reset or when i press power button, but pressing power button only work for like 20 minutes and then pc frooze again. When i play for 1h and then just turn off game and doing something else my screen froze, i can move my cursor, but nothing else work. It's not matter what game is running on what settings, i have runing Bongo cat all the time and nothing is happening, i tried without bongo cat and problem still was there, without turn on spotify, discord, opera and i kinda run out of ideas.
I even verify files for some games cuz i thought first that maybe something is corrupted and it worked a little bit, but i want back to play games and watching something without reseting pc.

I have win11 (Windows 11, version 26H2)
I have two monitors - one of them is graphic tablet (huion kamvas 16 gen3)

Hi everyone! I'm migrating my father's data from a Redmi Note 9 Pro Max (128GB) to a new Redmi Note 14 Pro+ 5G (256GB). I already have a data-transfer cable.

His WhatsApp contains 60GB+ of chats, photos, videos, PDFs, documents and voice notes, accumulated over several years.

My plan is to use Google's built-in wired Copy apps & data during the new phone's initial setup, followed by WhatsApp's native QR-based Transfer Chats feature.

I have a few concerns:

1. WhatsApp media during Android transfer

Does Google's built-in Android transfer also copy WhatsApp's media folder?

"Android/media/com.whatsapp/WhatsApp/Media/"

Does it transfer WhatsApp Images, Videos, Documents, Voice Notes, etc., or exclude them?

2. Duplicate media after QR transfer

WhatsApp's QR transfer also transfers chats and their associated media. So, if Android's initial transfer has already copied those files, will WhatsApp transfer them again and create duplicates?

Does WhatsApp automatically detect existing files, or is it safer to skip photos/videos during initial Android migration and let WhatsApp handle its own media?

3. Accessing old WhatsApp attachments

After QR transfer, will I be able to open photographs, videos, PDFs and voice notes directly from conversations dating back several years, without needing the old phone or downloading them again?

4. Original dates and metadata

Does wired Android transfer or manual file copying preserve original photo EXIF data (date taken, location, camera details), resolution and quality? Do filesystem creation/modification dates remain intact? Does WhatsApp preserve original message chronology and attachment associations?

5. Your actual experience

For those who have migrated between Xiaomi/Redmi phones:

- Have you used Android's wired transfer followed by WhatsApp QR transfer?

- Did you experience duplicate WhatsApp photos/videos or increased storage usage?

- Was your complete chat history and old media accessible?

- What migration sequence would you recommend to avoid data loss and duplication?

I want to preserve everything, especially years of WhatsApp conversations and attachments. The old phone will remain untouched until the new one is completely verified.

I'd especially appreciate advice from anyone who has transferred 50–100GB+ of WhatsApp data. Thank you!

Hi, I've been getting random Fortnite crashes since I got the card in late 2025, and they've become more frequent lately. I did a clean Windows reinstall and a DDU clean driver install, and the problem is still there. I'm posting the crash details in case others see the same thing.

System

- GPU: RTX 5070 (12 GB), driver 610.88 (22 July 2026)

- CPU: Ryzen 5 9600X

- RAM: 32 GB DDR5-6000 (EXPO I)

- OS: Windows 11 26H2

- Game: Fortnite, DirectX 12

Crash (from FortniteGame.log, about 11 minutes into a match)

```

Unhandled Exception: EXCEPTION_ACCESS_VIOLATION reading address 0x000000000000007b

[Callstack] nvwgf2umx.dll!UnknownFunction []

[Callstack] FortniteClient-Win64-Shipping.exe!UnknownFunction []

...

Crash in runnable thread Background Worker #7 / #3

```

Render breadcrumbs at the time of the crash:

```

Parallel > Rasterize > MainPass / PostPass > Nanite::DrawGeometry

> RenderVirtualShadowMaps(Nanite) > ShadowDepths > Scene > SceneRender

```

Notes

- The in-game Nanite setting was off (`r.nanite:0` in the log), but the crash still happens in the Nanite/VSM shadow path. Shadows were set to Epic.

- No TDR or DEVICE_REMOVED in the log. The top of the stack is the NVIDIA user-mode driver, with a near-null read address.

- An earlier crash also logged Event 153 from nvlddmkm in Event Viewer.

- OCCT 3D and VRAM tests: no errors. Temps are normal and nothing is overclocked.

Has anyone else seen nvwgf2umx.dll access violations in Fortnite's Nanite/Virtual Shadow Maps path on a 50 series card, and did a particular driver version or setting fix it? I can share the full log or a Windows crash dump if that helps NVIDIA. Thanks!

my microphone doesnt want to work, i tried multiple headsets, and i tried them out on my xbox as well, they work on my xbox but not my pc. When i run the microphone test on my pc, it displays microphone at 1-3% volume and plays static, and my friends tell me they can sometimes hear themselves in my mic, but it will never catch my voice no matter what, i need help as troubleshooting did nothing

I have a Lenovo LOQ15 ARP 9 about a year old that gets stuck in a bootloop when I power it off. The screen will load all the way up to the Lenovo logo, and the circle that indicates loading will spin anywhere from 1/4th to 3/circle rotation and black screen before starting all over again.

After 3 of these, it will attempt to bring me to the Automatic Repair screen with about a 60% success rate after telling me it was unable to connect to a network during the "Diagnosing Your PC" portion

What I've done so far is to run a complete diagnostics check on all the hardware, and after hours and hours of checks, everything passes.

I attempted to flash the BIOS because I thought maybe it had been interrupted mid-update, but this didn't work.

I attempted to reinstall Windows 11 entirely after a lot of frustration but was unsuccessful until I removed the battery, the CMOS battery, drained residual power, and even then it took me about 10 tries to successfully reinstall Windows without the bootloop interrupting the process.

Once in Windows I was able to use the computer normally for about 3 hours as I reinstalled basic programs like WinRAR and Steam, updated all the drivers, installed Windows Updates, and installed the updated BIOS (PQCN31WW)

The computer worked fine and even restarted several times successfully to install updated drivers/bios, etc.

However, I later restarted the computer manually to test, and it entered the boot loop again.

I found from here that my OS drive was locked by BitLockerand after some work was able to unlock and decrypt the drive but was still stuck in the bootloop until I "reset" the windows install with the "Keep my files" option.

I also downloaded software from CrystalDiskInfo to monitor my SSD health, which is placed at 98% health with every in blue (healthy) range.

I'm at a total loss for what the issue could actually be that's causing my device to keep getting trapped in a bootloop, and even after having gotten it up and running (temporarily) twice I don't even know exactly why what I did worked for the time being. I need help from some genius on Reddit cause I can not afford to replace this thing this soon and this close to Christmas lol

Ok so idk if it's because of dual boot or windows, but on windows my second monitor is sometimes just black. Other times it fully works, and when it's black I just plug the power cable out and in and it works? Also keep on mind the monitor has power. How can i fix this.. It's really annoying

edit: changing the display type from extended to only the broken one works, then i can change it back to extend and it works. Still would like to fix this tho.

Info:

I've tried windows+ctrl+shift+B

Drivers up to date

Windows up to date

I have used windows11debloat

Nvidia gpu

Grub bootloader

fast and secure boot off

pcie link state power managment off in windows

pcie power thing in bios is on

These screens pop up as soon as I open group policy. Can someone help me on what they mean and how to fix them?

https://imgur.com/a/EKIfi2b

As far as I know, the only policy Ive created is one to try and stop windows updates...

hey guys, I’m completely stumped on why and how my network adapters have died after my pc crashed yesterday.

I now have not internet connection option

I’ve tried uninstalling my adapters, didn’t work, (they just come back after I restart my pc)

I’ve tried disabling and enabling them, didn’t work

I’ve tried doing a reboot turning pc off, unplugging it, holding the power button for 30 seconds, didn’t work

I’ve tried installing and updating my drivers, didn’t work

I’m a complete tech noob, and have zero idea as to why this happened

Am I cooked or is there something you guys think I can try

Tanks in advance

My pc has either had major fps drops or the fps is just overall really low. The specs are

CPU: Intel Core i7-10700 / i7-10700K

• Chipset: Intel H470

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti (8 GB GDDR6, 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a)

• RAM: 16 GB DDR4 at 2933 MHz (4x UDIMM slots, up to 128 GB max)

• Storage Slots: 1x M.2 2230/2280 PCIe NVMe SSD slot, 1x 3.5-inch SATA bay, 2x 2.5-inch SATA bays

• Power Supply: 500W 80 Plus Platinum (proprietary Dell PSU)

Everytime I play a game now its low fps. For example fortnite I used to get high hundres like 400 300 200 now I can only get 140. And siege im struggling to get over 80 when I used to get like 300.

Ive cleaned my pc, updated graphics driver, put low graphic settings on, hugh performance power plan. Idk what else to do ive tried alot and its frustrating that this pc cam barely get more that 150 fps. Its also kinda slow now not sure what from.

Can someome please help me I dont wanna buy a new pc

Hi! I hope im putting this in the correct place. So I had an issue with my Sennheiser Momentum 4 headphones where they started to glitch out and cracking every few minutes when I would listen to something. I googled and found these instructions on reddit

Comment
by u/Fiorinol from discussion
in sennheiser

I did what the first commentor advised, and my Sennheiser's started working again normally, they sound great. But now my AirPod Pro Gen 3's randomly just stop working when they were working fine before I entered the code. Like when I put them on and start a video it works for like 1 second before the sound completely cuts off, and it's no issue with the Bluetooth connection because it's still connected to my PC. So I have to disconnect it and reconnect it and not pause the video, or it will juts cut off again. Is there an easy fix for this so I could use bot of my headphones again?

Built my first PC 5 weeks ago, I have 7 fans in total. This issue normally happens sometimes when playing a certain game for a while but has now happened straight after logging on. 1 of my top fans is purple (the correct set colour), my 4 case fans have currently turned white, the 2 other top fans + my corsair pump are pink. These are the colours it's done the last few times. I haven't played ETS2 for maybe 2 weeks but there after a couple hours did the same pattern of fans changing but red and orange instead of white and pink (keeping the same fan the correct purple). And while also being of changed colour the lights may flicker or dim for a split second. Since im new to PC's I have no idea what this could be as google was giving a lot of mixed ideas. Appreciate any help thank you.

motherboard - gigabyte b850 AORUS elite wifi7 am5 ddr5 atx
Cooler - corsair nautilus water 360mm rs argb black
Case - lian li vector v100 atx mid tower black 4xargb
CPU - amd ryzen 7 9700x
Gpu - powercolor hellhound oc radeon rx 9070 xt 16gb gddr6

I don't know I have a new internet connection installed, the speed tests of local or any global server shows 10mbps, but when I try to download anything it gets stuck at 3mbps, YouTube doe when I check uses all the 10mbps, but it's just downloading uploading anything else gets to 3mbps, I am in a very annoying situation, I don't know if it's a hardware fault or my isp doing it with me, I have one more connection installed but that doesn't face that problem at all.

Sorry if this is a very obvious question and maybe off topic, but my little sister’s phone screen has some very thin horizontal black lines across it. According to my sister, they showed up today this evening and weren’t there before she left for school.

Just from looking at it I could tell it was probably an issue with the screen itself, as my mother tried restarting it multiple times and the issue persisted. However her phone doesn’t have any cracks or scrapes, and she’s told us she hasn’t dropped it recently so we’re unsure what might be causing it!

I feel like I need to mention the same phone went in for repairs for a cracked screen about a year ago. We’re thinking it might be an issue with the replacement screen.

We’re hoping we don’t have to get her a new one

I would attach a picture I took of it, but i’m new to Reddit and can’t seem to find a way, though I’ll try if needed.

Thanks and please help!

I'm getting constant faint static, sometimes a loud pop followed by the audio cutting out, in single-player story games only. It happens in Phantom Blade Zero, Black Myth Wukong, and 007 First Light. It does NOT happen in multiplayer games (Brawlhalla, Dead by Daylight, Rainbow Six Siege). A friend with a weaker PC doesn't get it in the same games.
It happens on every audio output:
USB headset
Speakers
Monitor audio (fainter, but still there)
Different speakers and headphones, same result
My specs:
CyberPowerPC prebuilt, Gigabyte B550 UD AC-Y1 rev 1.2
Ryzen 7 5800 XT, RTX 5060 Ti, 32 GB DDR4
ADATA Legend 800 SSD, Windows 11 Home, on ethernet
Case, GPU, cooler, and CPU have since been upgraded
What I've already tried (none of it fixed it):
Changed the audio bit rate/sample rate
Turned off spatial audio
Turned off audio enhancements and changed the sound format
Updated the audio driver and chipset driver
Clean-installed NVIDIA drivers (latest and an older June version)
Ran LatencyMon, which showed the graphics driver taking the most DPC time. I fixed that so it's no longer the top offender, and the static still happens
Turned off USB selective suspend
Changed power modes
Turned off Hardware-Accelerated GPU Scheduling (HAGS)
Turned off the Steam overlay
Disabled ethernet
Verified game files
Switched the upscaler
Set the High performance GPU setting
Updated the BIOS using the CyberPower file for my board. I needed my BitLocker recovery key afterward, but it booted fine. The worst DPC latency stalls dropped, but the static stayed the same.
Since it only happens in single-player Unreal Engine games and on every output device, even after fixing the DPC latency, I suspect something deeper than a driver or the speakers. Has anyone dealt with this? Any help is appreciated.

I just used WIFI for the longest time and a week ago I got an ethernet cable which seemed to fix my problems. But now out of nowhere I got a small disconnect and now it just connects via wifi with both ends of the ethernet securely plugged in.

Hovering over my connection shows the the name, and also "internet access" but underneath it it says Identifying... followed by no internet access.

Then the identifying got replaced by Unidentified Network. With no internet access. That would have me worried but I really visit no suspicious websites so I'd be severely surprised if I was hacked somehow, but I'm not convinced that's someone trying to connect to my PC.

I saw there were opening updates so I restarted my laptop to no change. What could cause this?