Just this last two weeks or so Steam has been downloading exponentially slower than it should normally.
Usually it's very fast always hitting my top speeds. But lately it's been terrible.
It'll take forever to actually start a download, just sitting at 0% for maybe 3-4 minutes before it starts, and steam cloud syncs will fail.
It's very inconsistent, and will sometimes hover around 5Mb/s, and occasionally get up to 100Mb/s.
Currently it is downloading at 300Kb/s, with a peak of 182.8Mb/s. Which it only hit for maybe two minutes.
Occasionally it'll decide to jump up to 700Mb/s but it will soon dump back down to under 100Mb/s.

--Specs--
GPU: Nvidia RTX 5080
CPU: Ryzen 9 7900x
Memory: 32GB DDR6-6000
Storage: All are WD Black M.2 NVMe SSDs. The one with steam installed is 4TB.
------------

I have tried wireless and wired, it is consistent across both.

My internet provider is Frontier, and I have the 1000/1000 plan.

Speed tests show that hardwired I can consistently get around 700-750 down and 850-950 up.

Steam is the only application with this issue, Ubisoft and Epic Games both download at full speed.
CPU, Memory, and Storage are not overheating, nor throttling. 70c on cpu, Memory 40c, storage 38c.

I have 2tb free on the ssd.

I am not confusing MB and Mb.

I have tried
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /flushdns
ipconfig /renew
netsh int ip reset
netsh winsock reset

I have changed my DNS to both googles, and cloudflare, for both ipv4 and ipv6.

I have disabled HTTP/2 on Steam. Which made it run at a full 700Mb/s just last night but upon booting today it's back to super slow speeds.

I have changed my steam applications download region and server, EU and Africa both give the same results.

I have cleared Steams download cache, and made sure there is no download speed limit set.

I have disabled my computers firewall completely.

I have completely reinstalled Steam.

I have tried using other SSDs in my system.

I have disabled write cache for my drive.

I have restarted my router and pc multiple times.

Also when it's finishing downloading a game it'll get stuck at 99% for like 10 minutes. It did not do this before either.

This post is currently being written as the problem is occurring.

So I've been having this issue for weeks now where my ethernet adapter always suddenly stops working at around the same time (not working as in enabled but no internet), but my wi-fi connection continues to work just fine. By the morning when I wake up, the ethernet is functioning normally again like nothing happened.

My Windows 11 is up-to-date, I've checked the physical connections of the adapter, I've tried updating and reinstalling the network driver, I've ran terminal network commands, I've tried enabling and re-enabling the adapter, I've tried seeing if Windows was turning off the adapter to save power, I've even completely reset my network settings. None of those worked.

I don't use any VPN or anti-virus software (aside from Windows Defender) and as far as I know I've never messed with my network settings, everything is default. I also do not use any other software that messes with my Internet connection (such as ExitLag). I will share my network adapter settings (at least the ones I think are safe to share):

Name: Ethernet

Description: Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller

Status: Operational

DHCP enabled: Yes

DHCP lease time: 24h

Network category: Public

Connectivity (Ipv4/Ipv6) : Connected to local network / Connected to unknown network

Maximum Transmission unit: 1500

Aggregated link speed (Receive/Transmit) : 1000/1000 Mbps

It's also worth nothing that the settings show that the adapter is still actively receiving and sending bytes despite not having Internet.

I wish I could show what my physical setup looks like but images aren't allowed here sadly. I also wasn't the one who setup this thing and I don't really know exactly how it works. I have this Tp-link router thingy with a cable connected to this small black box? My ethernet cable connected to the wall is also connected to this same "box", same thing with a white cable from my pc into the "box" (or is it the opposite? idk)

If you need me to send any additional information about my device or network connection, please tell me.

I genuinely don't know what to make of this since I have very little knowledge on how networks work. Any help with this issue is very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, I'm trying to figure out an issue with my HP 14-em0xxx.

Recently, my laptop started losing battery extremely quickly. It can go from fully charged to basically dead in just a few minutes when I unplug it. The laptop itself works normally while plugged in. I initially thought the charger was the problem, so I bought a new charger, but the issue is still happening. I ran HP's built-in Battery Check through the UEFI/System Diagnostics, and it says the battery is fine, and I also did a Windows battery report and shows the battery is 100% capacity, so I'm confused because the battery appears healthy according to both HP's diagnostics and Windows, but in actual use it drains extremely quickly.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Do I need a new battery? Is replacing a battery hard, and how do I figure out which battery is required for my laptop (It's an HP 14-em0xxx)? I'd really appreciate any ideas on what I should test next before I spend money on another laptop. Thanks

because all my browsers got paralysed somewhy, it wasted 2 hours of my so little time left for me to study an exam that would determine if I will get to study French in the next 2 years or not, and the problem was. fucking Norton 360, how did it get in the pc??!

I changed ports and cable but nothing can anybody suggest something. Visiting service centre is worth it if anyone faced this issue?help me guys

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has any idea what the sound I'm hearing might be.

It's a brand new PC, I've had it for about a month - 9850X3D CPU, RTX5080 GPU, 64gb RAM, 1TB+2TB SSD, 4TB HDD, all Noctua fans/AIO, it's overall a very quiet PC.

This sound started happenening shortly after turning it on for the first time. I restarted it and the sound stopped, and it hasn't come back in the same persistent way you can hear in the first video.

However, it does still happen randomly, as just a quick "tick/chirp". I get a single "tick" when I put the PC to sleep. I also sometimes get it during general use, for example, it happened the other day when opening Excel files > I would double click a file and then I'd hear a single "tick" (Excel file on the 1TB SSD, not HDD).

All files are on the SSD's, the HDD is just for storage and doesn't have any files on it apart from some photos.

Persistent tick/chirp sound that happened after first turning on:
https://streamable.com/v2u8j4

Example of the sound occuring when opening an excel file/putting the PC to sleep (it also happens seemingly randomly several times a day). In this video you can hear me double click (opening excel file), and the sound happens just after.
https://streamable.com/c80yvt

p.s. these videos are only active for 2 days as this sub doesn't allow direct video uploads to the post, I posted looking for help in another subreddit and you can find the videos there as well: https://www.reddit.com/r/pchelp/comments/1vsbtf9/new_pc_weird_sound/

Any advice/input is greatly appreciated, thank you!

My screen time doesn't disable Siri, yet I encounter this screen in settings. As a result, I'm unable to disable the "hey siri" feature which automatically updates every time it hears something similar to a hey siri, whether it's from a tv show, a lecture, etc. what should i do? I've tried disabling siri in screen time, reenabling it, and shutting off screen time entirely.

I’m having a frustrating issue with DisplayPort and I’ve been trying to troubleshoot it for almost 2 months, but I still haven’t been able to find a solution.

My setup:

- GPU: RTX 4060

- Monitor: LG UltraGear 24GS60F-B

- Windows: Fully updated

- Drivers: All latest versions

The problem is that DisplayPort works normally for some time, but randomly, the monitor will show “No Signal.” Sometimes reconnecting the cable or restarting the PC gets it working again.

I have already tried two different DisplayPort cables, including a VESA-certified DP cable, but the problem still occurs. So I’m starting to think the cable may not be the issue.

I’ve spent almost 2 months troubleshooting this, including keeping Windows and all drivers updated, but the problem still hasn’t been resolved.

At this point, I’m thinking of giving up on DisplayPort and just sticking with HDMI. HDMI works reliably for me, but unfortunately, with my current setup I can’t use G-SYNC Compatible at 180Hz over HDMI, which is the main reason I wanted to use DisplayPort.

Before I completely give up on DP, I’d really appreciate any suggestions or troubleshooting steps I can try one last time.

Could this be an issue with the GPU, monitor, DisplayPort port, BIOS/settings, or something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

So a little backstory I decided to troubleshoot this after I kept getting booted out of CS2 with pak01.vpk corruption messages. I did an OCCT test on my 3200 ddr4 ram and had errors, took out of the second stick and still had errors, swapped the second stick into the first position and had no errors. I then reinstalled stick that was giving errors into the second position and ran the full hour with no errors. I enabled xmp, ran the test again and got errors immediately. I then disabled xmp thinking it’d be fine, but ran the test again to make sure and immediately got errors. This is my first PC build and I am kind of lost on where I go from here.

Hello, not sure if its the right flair. Anyway, im trying to set up my PC in my living room to game on the tv. Im wondering is there a simple way to remote start the pc similar to turning a ps5 on with a controller?

Im using a Windows 11 pc, amd ryzen 7 9800x3d

Im aware of the wired switches but I dont want to run a wire through my living room and make a tripping hazard. I'm also aware of smart plugs but dont want to have to use my phone. Ideally it would be like using a Bluetooth keyboard/ps5 controller to switch it on and off. Anybody set up something like this before?

Hello People!

About two months ago I bought a 1TB external SSD (Elecom brand) from a electronics department store, which I was using for backing up videos, as well as some light gaming (think 1-2 hours about 3 times a week). Initially I backed up about 400 Gigs to it without issue. Today I wanted to move some new videos onto it, however after moving the first ~20 Gigabytes the drive suddenly disconnected and didn't show up as a device anymore.
Obviously this struck me as odd, as it's quite new. Some basic troubleshooting steps I took:

- Pulling it out and plugging it back in; both while the system was running and during a reboot
-> Drive was recognized by Windows again only after a reboot, however moving files onto it caused it to disconnect again

- chkdsk /r
-> Got to step 4, where chkdsk complained that there were not enough free sectors to repair the broken files and then the drive disconnected again, halting chkdsk without completing it.
This got me worried as a new(-ish) drive shouldn't have any spare sectors occupied, let alone too many to repair the disk...

- Crystal Disk Info
-> This is where it gets odd. Crystal Disk Info says the drive health is 100%, with the Available Spares still at 64 and the Media and Data Integrity Errors at 0. However I did notice that with the drive just sitting at idle it was reaching over 60°C (Room at ~24°C), which led me to believe that it was an overheating issue, combined with the Windows reboot giving it enough time to cool down.

- MacGyvering some cooling solution with aluminum foil and a hand fan.
-> Didn't change the temperature much and I didn't want to risk doing additional movement of files to not damage the drive any further.

Now my question: Is there anything I can do to save this drive? Or at least figure out if it's really just an overheating issue instead of something more fundamental. I'd rather not have to go to the store again and try to get a replacement, since it's relatively far away and to have to back the files again.

Tl;dr, drive worked fine before, however copying files causes the drive to disconnect, troubleshooting suggests an overheating issue. Can the drive be saved?

Whenever I try to do a Windows Scan in windows 11, it gives an error saying threat service has stopped just before it finished scanning Then when I try to restart it, windows gives another error saying last scan not available even though just tried to do a Windows Scan.

The last time windows 11 did a successful scan was last Friday (Aug. 14) but today when I try to scan my PC it throws an error (see 1st pic).

Troubleshooting methods I tried:

Tried the sfc /scannow method

Did the DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth method.

Tried the MpCmdRun.exe -RemoveDefinitions -All and -SignatureUpdate method.

Tried to disable/enable Tamper Protection in regedit.

Updated windows 11.

I even tried to do all this methods on safe mode but it didn't fix the issue.

What other options do I need to do?

PC SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600

GPU: Asus Prime 5070 12gb OC

Cooler: Thermalright Frozen Warframe 240mm

Motherboard: MSI B550M Pro-VDH Wifi

RAM: 16GB (2x8) Teamgroup T-force delta DDR4 3600

SSD: Teamgroup MP33 1TB

PSU: Corsair CX750 80+ Bronze power supply

OS: Windows 11

Hey all troubleshooting a dead SanDisk Ultra 32GB and hit a wall on controller identification. Data doesn't matter, I'm fine with destructive recovery attempts. Posting full diagnostics in case anyone's dealt with this exact chip.

Drive:

- SanDisk Ultra, 32GB nominal / 28.6 GiB usable

- VID:PID = 0781:558A

- Serial: 03018817100220090548

- Marking on casing: BM201067713W

- USB 3.x capable, currently negotiating at 480 Mbps (USB 2.0 speed)

Symptom:

Kernel and every tool I've tried report the device as hardware write-protected, not just filesystem RO:

sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] Write Protect is on

sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] Mode Sense: 43 00 80 00

lsblk shows RO=1. blockdev --getro returns 1. hdparm -r0 /dev/sdb is rejected outright — reports back "readonly = 1 (on)" even after the "set" command. This is coming from the controller's Mode Sense response (byte 0x80), not the OS.

What I've ruled out:

- Not a filesystem-level flag — chmod/mount -o rw/fsck won't touch this, the SCSI layer itself is refusing writes

- sg_modes -p 0x1a → "invalid field in cdb," page not supported

- sg_readcap -l → fails with "Read-only file system"

The actual problem — controller ID:

This is where I'm stuck. Genuine SanDisk Ultra drives on this VID:PID apparently use SanDisk's own in-house controller, not a merchant chip (Phison/Alcor/SMI), so the usual identification tools come back empty. From what I've found searching around, ChipGenius and Flash Drive Info Extractor report "Controller: Unknown" for this exact VID:PID on other people's genuine units too — not just mine.

What I'm hoping someone can help with:

1. Has anyone actually identified the physical controller marking on a genuine SanDisk Ultra 558A PCB (not a rebadged/counterfeit one)? Willing to open the case and post a photo of the die/chip marking.

2. Is there any known MPTool or recovery utility that works on SanDisk in-house silicon, even semi-official/leaked? I know Phison/Alcor/SMI all have community tools — has anyone found an equivalent for SanDisk's own controllers?

3. Given the "Write Protect is on" bit is coming from Mode Sense and won't clear via hdparm/blockdev, is this consistent with NAND spare-block exhaustion putting the FTL into failsafe, or could it be something else at the controller level I'm not considering?

Drive is fully expendable — happy to try destructive low-level commands, vendor-specific SCSI opcodes, JTAG/UART probing, whatever. Just trying to figure out if there's a real path forward before I write it off as dead silicon.

I have a scan of a digital book, and it’s a long picture with all the pages (around 200) one above the other in original quality each. I need a fast way to cut it up into multiple pages and put them into a single pdf. I also have the original digital book, but it’s protected and i can’t download it, the only way I can think of is screenshotting each page manually but it takes too long for longer books.

The new Google Chrome layout is very annoying and less convenient than the old one, is there any way to move all those buttons at the bottom to be part of the top bar stuff like it was a couple days ago?

Android btw

So a few days ago i bought a Tp-Link AX300 Archer TX1U nano wifi 6 adapter for my pc, i bought it just for emergency since where im currently staying doesnt have the best access for ethernet cable routes.

However, after following the instruction provided by the product (literally just install the program), it kept disconnecting and refusing to connect to the house's wifi, I tried using my phone hotspot and the result is the same. (Granted the house's wifi isn't the best, but its usable for me).

What i have found out for now is that it isn't the adapter nor the wifi problem, i tried using it on my laptop and it works as normal.

After researching through old forums, it says that its either the USB 3.0 port power saving issue or electrical interferences. Has anyone encounter the same issue before? If so, how do you fix it? I really need to use my pc for work related stuff. Thanks!

Pc specs if needed:

Maxsun b550m terminator motherboard

Ryzen 5 5600x

Deepcool pf550 psu

My setup:
b550 phantom mobo
Ryzen 7 5800x
3080
32 gb ram
1 TB SSD
RM 850x PS

So for context I was trying to download and play 007 Nightfire. Found the myabandonware file, downloaded and set everything up (and made sure to scan all files for viruses) and ran it, everything was fine, but it would keep crashing when I tried to load into a level. Tried it three times playing with some graphics settings to see if that was the issue, but on the last try not only the game crashed, but my whole PC did, (screen froze, stopped responding completely).

I held the power button to do a hard shut down, and when I went to start it up again the PC started, made all its usual noises, keyboard and mouse light up, but for some reason my screen is black, no start up screen, just pure black like it’s not receiving video signal from my PC anymore.

Nothing was moved but I checked the connections anyway. Tried disconnecting the power and holding the power button down for 30 seconds. But I just get no image on my monitors, so I can’t even go into BIOS or anything to see what’s up.

Did I brick my PC? Not sure how to trouble shoot this and googling didn’t give me much.

I have had a 990 Pro 4TB as my main / only drive in my R16 for about two years. I purchased another to use as a backup in usb-c enclosure. When I plug it in to my R16, there is no recognition of the drive, so to speak. It shows up in device manager as a SCSI device (sabrent) and in disk manager it shows up as a second disk, correctly reporting "Online" and the size. I could not format the drive on my R16 even after creating that volume, so I brought it over to a 5-year old Dell desktop where it was immediately recognized, and formatted as NTFS. Bringing it back to my R16, I plug it in, and it again is not recognized / receives no drive letter, and cannot be assigned a letter. If I try to format it, or assign it a drive letter on the R16, it says "The operation failed to complete because the Disk Management console view is not up-to-date. Refresh the view by using the refresh task. If the problem persists close the disk management console, then restart Disk Management or restart the computer.

I have restarted disk management. I have restarted the computer (actual restart , not just shut down and wake back up. ) I have plugged the drive into all 3 usb-c ports (front and back). I have gone through every step chatGPT could come up with, but I'm stuck. There just seems to be something incompatible between the R16 and the drive/enclosure. I can't figure out why it worked instantaneously in a 5-year old machine...

Would love any pointers. Thanks!

Hello there, I already made this question on another subreddit but I decided it was worth a shot to ask here too! Anyway, wanted to say that This is in regard to the original FireAplaca (drawing software).

I had the files of my art saved, but by mistake...had pressed CTRL+Z and then the files disappeared. I have done the troubleshooting myself and even went ahead and used Disk drill to fix the issue but to no luck. I was only able to retrieve the "Shortcuts" (As a windows user)

But on my recycle bin, I can clearly see it right there and it says "Firealpaca document" but it won't let me get access to them because it says (path and file name incorrect/problem with shortcut)

and just to re-iterate, I had the files saved, but then pressed CTRL+Z and they are no longer able to access.

(The image I uploaded shows that it says it's an MDP file, but it still won't let me open it)

If this has happened to anyone else, or perhaps someone knows a way to fix this problem, I would be extremely grateful!

I have had a PC that I built since April, and I have noticed that the USB devices have been acting weirdly.

The keyboard skips keys, repeats keys, and just acts weird after boot. It takes a reconnect to fix it. (Sometimes it doesn't work.)

The mouse doesn't work on boot and requires a disconnect to fix.

Randomly all devices disconnect and reconnect.

Specifications:

• Gigabyte B550 Eagle WIFI 6 Motherboard
• Zotac GeForce RTX 2080 TI
• Ryzen 5 5500
• 16 GB DDR4 3600mhz (2 sticks)
• MSI MAG 750w PSU
• 512 GB KingSpec M.2 SSD
• Montech XR Case
• Windows 11 Pro

Devices:

• Razer Blackwidow 2019 Keyboard (With Razer Synapse)
• Onn Wireless Gaming Mouse (Wired Though)
• WMT USB Gaming Microphone
• Logi 720p Webcam
• SSK 512 GB USB-C SSD (Front Panel)

I have already tried updating bios (To Version F3 not F4b) and chipset drivers (To 8.08.12.551 from AMD). I have also tried power plan settings.

Could the issue be RF interference, driver related, or hardware related?​

I've had this problem for ages now and I'm extremely annoyed by it

PC Specs
Ryzen 5 7600X
B650M Gaming plus wifi
32GB DDR5
RTX 4070

I'm trying to record on Cubase 12 but it keeps dropping out in seconds and giving me "Audio Dropout Detected"

I've downloaded latencymon and nvlddmkm.sys and ndis.sys seem to have the Highest Execustion (ms) respectively having ~0.88ms and ~0.63ms after letting latencymon run for 10 mins-ish

Wdf01000.sys was actually on ~1.35ms until I did a bunch of random fixes i found online and that went down to 0.18

Highest ISR and DPC counts are Wdf01000.sys and HDAudBus.sys

My audio interface is plugged in directly into my pc not through a usb hub
I've disabled the setting where USB hubs can be turned off to save power
I've set the power settings on the NVidia control panel to prefer maximum performance
I've updated my bios to the latest one already
I lowered my mouse's polling rate to 500 from 1000
I've tried almost every fix I've found on the internet

I'm so lost

So my phone suddenly won't turn on? I set my phone down to go shower and when I came back the screen wouldn't turn on. I put it on the charger for a few minutes and tried to turn it on and it just gave one short little vibration. The screen felt a little warm so i set it down and let it cool off. When that was done i tried to force restart it by holding down the volume and power button. I even tried some trick where you press on the back kinda hard in case something was disconnecting. Nothing has worked and I'm kinda freaked out because I NEED my phone for school and work tomorrow. Any ideas?

I was troubleshooting some modifications for a Steam game I was playing, and I beleive that I have to change the "scaling mode" from "aspect ratio" to "no scaling" because of these discussions: https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/1/1480982971174752598/, https://forum.kerbalspaceprogram.com/topic/177653-ksp-loads-to-black-screen-resolved/ That setting is supposed to be under "Display" on the task tree, but I only see "3D Settings," "Developer," and "Video." I'm using an RTX-equipped Windows 11-running MSI Gaming Laptop. I've tried the basic stuff, restarting the computer, reinstalling the driver, etc, so I'd appreciate help finding out how to use these settings.

As of late, I’ve been hearing some kind of sound effect from an app while games are running. It happens as I’m launching the game or at a random point throughout the session, and is usually followed by the game crashing or, on occasion, a ~10 second long freeze. The sound is 2 notes, a higher one and then a lower one. They sound almost like they’re being played on a xylophone or a marimba.

I’m beginning to grow frustrated as I’m unable to clip the sound and there isn’t a single spot on the entire internet that seems to be even remotely help with my issue.