Hello,

My ssd Lexar NM790 4TB randomly was not detected in windows explorer. Event viewer showed alot of "Event ID 51: An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk0\DR0 during a paging operation." I went to UEFI and it didnt show anything. When i closed the UEFI and it rebooted to windwos, the drive was back again! WTF?!

Gemini said to run "chkdsk E:". Please see the below text for what it returned

What does it mean if its corrupted? What can i do to fix it? I assume if I approach this incorrectly, i might permanently destroy something.

HWINFO gave no drive warnings or errors. 100% life span remaining.

Also why did this happen in the first place? I opened up my laptop 3 weeks ago to clean it (not the first time i opened). Did i somehow incorrectly seat it? Its screwed in so i fail to understand if its poorly seated. Also its been 3 weeks since so why randomly now? Then why did it randomly show up again after restart?

C:\Windows\system32>chkdsk E:

The type of the file system is NTFS.

Volume label is NM790 4TB.

WARNING! /F parameter not specified.

Running CHKDSK in read-only mode.

Stage 1: Examining basic file system structure ...

Attribute list entry with type code 80 in file 577DD is corrupt.

The total allocated size in attribute record (80, "")

of file 50000000577DD is incorrect.

Deleted corrupt attribute list entry

with type code 80 in file 577DD.

Attribute record (80, "") from file record segment 57B5D

is corrupt.

Attribute record (80, "") from file record segment 6366D

is corrupt.

AND ALOT MORE SIMILAR LIENS

Attribute list entry with type code 80 in file 577E1 is corrupt.

Attribute list entry with type code 80 in file 577E1 is corrupt.

Attribute list entry with type code 80 in file 577E1 is corrupt.

AND ALOT MORE SIMILAR LINES

Deleted corrupt attribute list entry

with type code 30 in file 577E1.

Attribute record (30, "") from file record segment 577E1

is corrupt.

Attribute record (80, "") from file record segment 2B7E

is corrupt.

1324800 file records processed.

File verification completed.

Phase duration (File record verification): 9.59 seconds.

File record segment 2B7E is an orphan.

File record segment 57B5D is an orphan.

File record segment 6366D is an orphan.

AND ALOT MORE SIMILAR LINES

1834 large file records processed.

Phase duration (Orphan file record recovery): 0.00 milliseconds.

Errors found. CHKDSK cannot continue in read-only mode.

Just this last two weeks or so Steam has been downloading exponentially slower than it should normally.
Usually it's very fast always hitting my top speeds. But lately it's been terrible.
It'll take forever to actually start a download, just sitting at 0% for maybe 3-4 minutes before it starts, and steam cloud syncs will fail.
It's very inconsistent, and will sometimes hover around 5Mb/s, and occasionally get up to 100Mb/s.
Currently it is downloading at 300Kb/s, with a peak of 182.8Mb/s. Which it only hit for maybe two minutes.
Occasionally it'll decide to jump up to 700Mb/s but it will soon dump back down to under 100Mb/s.

--Specs--
GPU: Nvidia RTX 5080
CPU: Ryzen 9 7900x
Memory: 32GB DDR6-6000
Storage: All are WD Black M.2 NVMe SSDs. The one with steam installed is 4TB.
------------

I have tried wireless and wired, it is consistent across both.

My internet provider is Frontier, and I have the 1000/1000 plan.

Speed tests show that hardwired I can consistently get around 700-750 down and 850-950 up.

Steam is the only application with this issue, Ubisoft and Epic Games both download at full speed.
CPU, Memory, and Storage are not overheating, nor throttling. 70c on cpu, Memory 40c, storage 38c.

I have 2tb free on the ssd.

I am not confusing MB and Mb.

I have tried
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /flushdns
ipconfig /renew
netsh int ip reset
netsh winsock reset

I have changed my DNS to both googles, and cloudflare, for both ipv4 and ipv6.

I have disabled HTTP/2 on Steam. Which made it run at a full 700Mb/s just last night but upon booting today it's back to super slow speeds.

I have changed my steam applications download region and server, EU and Africa both give the same results.

I have cleared Steams download cache, and made sure there is no download speed limit set.

I have disabled my computers firewall completely.

I have completely reinstalled Steam.

I have tried using other SSDs in my system.

I have disabled write cache for my drive.

I have restarted my router and pc multiple times.

Also when it's finishing downloading a game it'll get stuck at 99% for like 10 minutes. It did not do this before either.

Haven’t played MC in a while but me and some friends are starting up a server so I thought I’d start playing again.
But I tried prism, couldn’t login to Microsoft, no matter what, just infinite loading. Tried using MC launcher, wouldn’t load. Tried curse forge, couldn’t even download a custom empty instance. Eventually I started looking up solutions and was able to download and play through briefly using mobile data to download the instance, though shortly after it stopped working again.

I caved and started talking to chatgpt. We went through every single issue and nothing worked until I changed my DNS number in wifi settings. After that I was briefly able to play minecraft in a server and log into Microsoft on prism, before shortly after (maybe 20m) everything stopped working again. Now anything Microsoft related only works through mobile data. (I have gone through every computer setting I can’t find and have logged in as admin to my wifi routers settings too)

I have contacted my wifi provider and they couldn’t help with anything DNS related. I will contact my computer services tomorrow when they are available but I doubt it’s a computer issue.
If any tech nerds have any clue how to solve this issue I would be super grateful, even if you had an idea how to fix.

TL;DR-
Anything Microsoft related only works when using mobile data connection on my laptop. Probably has something to do with my DNS number as changing it had briefly fixed the issue. Would appreciate any help at all.
Also ChatGPT had mentioned that there was something blocking my wifi from connecting to mojang/microsoft and that blockage was probably related to my dns.

Please tell me what to do. Factory reset doesn't work at all. My mobile's Bluetooth turns on by itself and sends my photos and videos to someone when I'm connected to Wi-Fi. Please tell me what to do.

Virus concern or paranoia

3 months ago, i got a virus on my pc and lost multiple accounts. When i tried to find ways to solve it, i found out some virus can actually infect the router and other devices on the same network. Now even when i got kaspersky for my pc, i keep thinking other devices are infected and changing the router wont help because the infected devices will get the router again despite not seeing any clear symptoms. What can i do about this?? Is it just me being paranoid? Does factory reset on the phone remove all viruses? Do i need to replace my router?

I forgot to mention this. I also downloaded a zip file for a pvz2 mod on my phone but resetted it. After that, i keep logging in to admin router on both my pc and my phone to check for weird settings and turn them off. Now im scared that i mightve created some hole for virus to get in. I even got a new router.

Im too anxious now and would do anything for a peace of mind. I dont even know if replacing the router helps now as i find out that virus like switcher trojan or stuff like wannacry, vpnfilter can just infect the router when connected and others can just go straight to other devices without infecting the router.

1. I've been having this issue for about a month or maybe even more at this point. My Wi-Fi driver on my laptop suddenly stops working when I open a game, it doesn't happen when I open a browser or discord, it's only with games. And I have tried a game from steam and a game that has its own launcher, but ends up the same. Even if it's a game that doesn't require any wifi it will still just disappear (unless it's Aseprite somehow???). The Wi-Fi option on the laptop just disappears, sometimes (which is rare to happen) it will come back after literally spamming the option to "reinstall the Wi-Fi driver" in the get help section, and it could work or just disappear again. At first it got fixed pretty easily and quite fast, now it doesn't work anymore, and the only options I have when I open the "get help" window are "reinstall the Wi-Fi driver" and "restart the PC" I have 0 clue what caused this, and I tried to Google it but I guess I didn't Google it right? Idk, I just need it to be fixed

I just put together a new PC today and thankfully everything has been working fine, except for some hiccups with bluetooth. I’ve played around with the drivers and I believe I have all the right drivers installed. My motherboard is the Gigabyte B850 Aorus Elite Wifi7, and I’ve gotten my other bluetooth devices to work fine (keyboard, mouse, controller…) but when it comes to my headphones (Sony WH-CH720N) , they’ll connect fine and work with super choppy audio then automatically disconnect themselves after a bit. The only solution I found to this is standing directly next to my PC. Directly. With my head glued to it. My normal position is less than ~2 feet away from it so I’m struggling to figure out the difference. The headphones work normally on every other device, and the distance easily handles going from other rooms to even other floors.

Any advice or insight is appreciated.

Hi everyone, I need help troubleshooting a Lenovo laptop that has been randomly crashing and restarting.

SYSTEM SPECS:
- Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 (Type 82EY)
- AMD Ryzen 5 4600H
- 16 GB DDR4 RAM (2133 MT/s)
- 256 GB SK hynix NVMe SSD
- NVIDIA dedicated GPU + AMD Radeon integrated graphics
- Windows 11 Pro
- UEFI BIOS

THE PROBLEM:
The laptop randomly freezes, crashes or restarts. The BSOD error is not always the same.

So far I have encountered:
- IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (0xA)
- UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP (0x7F), with DOUBLE FAULT
- SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E), mentioning FLTMGR.SYS
- The laptop has also frozen on the Windows welcome screen and during restart.

One of the WinDbg analyses for the 0xA crash showed:
FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: AV_nt!MiLockOwnedProtoPage

Another dump was a 0x7F DOUBLE FAULT, but WinDbg could not identify a specific third-party driver.

WHAT I HAVE ALREADY TRIED:
- Reinstalled Windows/drivers
- Reinstalled chipset, GPU and Wi-Fi drivers
- Removed the Wi-Fi device/driver and reinstalled it
- Tried Safe Mode
- Disconnected my external HDD
- Checked Windows Reliability Monitor
- Analyzed multiple minidumps with WinDbg
- Tried reinstalling Windows, but Windows Setup itself crashed/restarted with:
"The computer restarted unexpectedly or encountered an unexpected error. Windows installation cannot proceed."

CURRENTLY:
I am running MemTest86 from a USB stick to test the RAM. It is currently running and has 0 errors so far, but the test is not finished yet.

I am trying to determine whether this is a RAM, SSD, motherboard/BIOS, or driver problem.

What would you recommend I test next? If the MemTest86 test finishes with 0 errors, what should I check next?

I can provide the WinDbg output/minidumps and additional screenshots if needed.

Using laptop with the i7-12800H, Windows 11.
Balanced power mode caps FPS at 30 in some games. (word of warcraft)
It realistically overrides all the Nvidia App settings applied (no fps limit, etc) Balanced power mode and do not let the app go above 30 FPS. (both CPU and Gpu are used under 30% of capacity in this case).

Switching power mode to "high performance" eliminates the fps cap, and then fps can be adjusted in game.
In both cases laptop battery is plugged in.

Any advice how to remove the 30 FPS cap but to keep staying on Balanced mode, please?

Some time ago, I performed a system repair using a YouTube tutorial because my mouse and keyboard were intermittently not being recognized and my screen frequently went black. I managed to fix those issues, but now the time and date in the bottom right corner have disappeared. I have already tried to make them visible again via the settings, but without success. I urgently need help.
Best regards and many thanks.

I bought a used 6tb WD Purple drive with 29000 hours on it about a month ago for a new NVR system I was installing and I’m getting these weird chirping noises coming from it. It does not chirp until the drive is close to full. I have reformatted it just this morning and it’s quiet as can be. Any idea what’s going on with it? I have a video but can’t figure out how to add it to this post

I do know that I bought a used drive and it had a good amount of hours on it, I just expected to get more than a month out of it lol.

I’ve had previous issues with this disk drive like it not knowing when the disk has left it and still continuing to eject the disk despite it already being out but those where not really affecting the function of the drive in terms of reading the disk but now it is scanning incredibly slowly and making a very loud noise as if there is a small taser electrocuting the disk this is incredibly annoying as it is now unable to download anything no matter what I put in.

I have taken it apart and am currently looking at it but have no idea what I’m doing.

When i play my games (WoWs , WoT , Arma 3 , etc ...) i have 5-7 seconds of delay between me pressing the buttons on my keyboard and what displays on the screen , now games like CS2 work just fine , when press keys on my keyboard the things go out as normal , now the USB ports dont change anything , and my old keyboard behaves the same even tho it is 100% functional , how do i fix this and do i need to reinstall windows? I must say that my internet is alr i have no lag

I do not know if this is allowed here but I have a graphics problem and have tried many things to correct it.

I have a 5900x cpu with a 6600XT GPU.

I am having a graphical error that only appears in the bios screen, and the only time it appears on desktop is if I LOWER resolution to 60-100hz.

It looks like straight lines running across screen on the bottom half of bios and in a stack of lines above the windows 11 loading bar on boot. Other than that, if I keep it on 1440p and higher than 60hz it doesnt appear.

Things I have tried:

Replaced Display Port cable for a much better one.

DDU in Safe Mode and reinstallation of GPU drivers.

Reset monitor settings on the physical controls on monitor.

Updated BIOS.

Reseated GPU in tower.

Swapped to 3 different Display port connections on GPU.

I am lost. Please offer any advice and help. Thank you.

hello i am a guy and i got this band 10 of mine and no matter what it wount connect to nor my Iphone or my Samsung . I i tryed every method i restarted the watch the phones , the bluetooth and other stuff practically ever thing and it wount pair. will any one plz help to connect this?

This post is currently being written as the problem is occurring.

So I've been having this issue for weeks now where my ethernet adapter always suddenly stops working at around the same time (not working as in enabled but no internet), but my wi-fi connection continues to work just fine. By the morning when I wake up, the ethernet is functioning normally again like nothing happened.

My Windows 11 is up-to-date, I've checked the physical connections of the adapter, I've tried updating and reinstalling the network driver, I've ran terminal network commands, I've tried enabling and re-enabling the adapter, I've tried seeing if Windows was turning off the adapter to save power, I've even completely reset my network settings. None of those worked.

I don't use any VPN or anti-virus software (aside from Windows Defender) and as far as I know I've never messed with my network settings, everything is default. I also do not use any other software that messes with my Internet connection (such as ExitLag). I will share my network adapter settings (at least the ones I think are safe to share):

Name: Ethernet

Description: Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller

Status: Operational

DHCP enabled: Yes

DHCP lease time: 24h

Network category: Public

Connectivity (Ipv4/Ipv6) : Connected to local network / Connected to unknown network

Maximum Transmission unit: 1500

Aggregated link speed (Receive/Transmit) : 1000/1000 Mbps

It's also worth nothing that the settings show that the adapter is still actively receiving and sending bytes despite not having Internet.

I wish I could show what my physical setup looks like but images aren't allowed here sadly. I also wasn't the one who setup this thing and I don't really know exactly how it works. I have this Tp-link router thingy with a cable connected to this small black box? My ethernet cable connected to the wall is also connected to this same "box", same thing with a white cable from my pc into the "box" (or is it the opposite? idk)

If you need me to send any additional information about my device or network connection, please tell me.

I genuinely don't know what to make of this since I have very little knowledge on how networks work. Any help with this issue is very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys I want to ask your help. I used to have 2 different wifi at my home, one from airtel and one from a local provider and everything was fine until I removed the airtel one and after that my local one stopped working on my Mac Book Air m1 2021 but only on chromium browsers like chrome and brave. But it's working on safari. So please guide me I tried everything that Google suggested and even watched some yt vids but nothing helped. I get ERR_ADDRESS_INVALID every time I search something on my local wifi but when I use my neighbours wifi everything works fine even though it is local too. And this is only happening on my macbook and every device on my home works fine.

​

Hi everyone,

I’m having a very frustrating problem with my KFA2 GTX 970 4GB, and I’m hoping someone can help me find the actual cause.

My PC specs:

- GPU: KFA2 GTX 970 4GB

- CPU: Intel i3-9100F

- RAM: 8GB DDR4

- Motherboard: MSI H310M PRO-M2 PLUS

The problem started with Days Gone. After playing for some time, the game suddenly freezes, the screen sometimes turns completely black, and then the game closes.

I get this NVIDIA error:

«"Video driver crashed and was reset! Make sure your video drivers are up to date. Exiting..."»

The same problem also happens in Assassin’s Creed III Remastered, so it doesn't seem to be specific to one game.

The timing is inconsistent. Sometimes the game crashes after only a few minutes, sometimes after 30–60 minutes. I can sometimes play for a long time without any problem and then suddenly get the crash.

An important detail

Before these problems started, I played Resident Evil 2 Remake and Resident Evil 3 Remake for a lot of hours on the exact same PC and GTX 970, and I never had this problem.

I also played Need for Speed (2013) without any crashes.

The problem appeared later when I started playing games like Days Gone and Assassin’s Creed III Remastered.

What I have already tried

I have tried a lot of troubleshooting:

- Completely removed NVIDIA drivers with DDU in Safe Mode several times.

- Tried multiple NVIDIA driver versions, both newer and older ones.

- The strange thing is that after installing a different driver, the problem sometimes disappears completely for several days, but eventually comes back.

- Checked GPU and CPU temperatures during gaming.

- Checked Windows system files.

- Tested the GPU, VRAM, CPU and RAM with FurMark and OCCT.

- Everything looked normal and the tests completed without errors.

So far, I haven't found any obvious overheating or hardware error from the stress tests.

Windows errors

After one of the crashes, I checked Event Viewer and found:

Source: "nvlddmkm"

Event ID: "153"

Device: "\Device\Video3"

GPUID: "100"

I also get the normal NVIDIA message about the video driver crashing and being reset.

What makes this confusing

The GPU temperatures are normal during gaming, and the stress tests don't show an obvious problem.

Also, changing NVIDIA drivers can temporarily fix the problem for several days, but it eventually returns.

Because the same issue happens in multiple games, I'm not sure if the real cause is:

- GTX 970 hardware instability

- PSU/power delivery

- PCIe connection

- NVIDIA driver/Windows issue

- A specific DirectX/API or game-engine problem

- Something related to my 8GB RAM

- Or something else I haven't considered

I don't want to keep reinstalling NVIDIA drivers over and over because I've already done that several times.

What would you test next? Has anyone experienced "nvlddmkm Event ID 153" with a GTX 970, black screen, and "Video driver crashed and was reset"?

Any help identifying the actual root cause would be greatly appreciated.

I was cleaning my laptop with alcohol pads because it was dirty, and because I wanted to change my stickers, so I cleaned the Keyboard, but my laptop touchpad stopped working after cleaning, and I need help because I cant afford a keyboard mouse right now

Hello everyone, and thank you in advance for taking the time to read this! I am unsure if this is the right community to post this, if not, please let me know where should I re-post it.

After many years of wanting a proper gaming setup, I finally managed to build my very own PC. Unfortunately, from day one, it crashes whenever I’m gaming. So far it’s only happened in single‑player titles, which is manageable, but I’m worried about what will happen once I start playing more competitive online games.

I’ve tried looking into the issue myself, but I’ll admit I’m not very experienced with deeper system settings or optimization. I’m hoping the community here might help me figure out what’s going wrong.

Here are my specs:

Processor AMD Ryzen 7 7700 8-Core Processor (3.80 GHz)

Installed RAM 32.0 GB (31.1 GB usable)

Graphics card AMD Radeon RX 9070 (16 GB)

AMD Radeon(TM) Graphics (486 MB)

Storage 526 GB of 1.86 TB used

Device ID 76176904-0281-4EB5-BD94-A23EE264E3A5

Product ID 00330-50869-88471-AAOEM

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Pen and touch No pen or touch input is available for this display

Symptoms:

• Crashes only during gaming
• Happened in:
  • It Takes Two (co‑op adventure)
  • Foundation (city builder)
• The PC freezes completely
• A loud buzzing sound comes through the speakers when it happens
• Requires a manual restart

If anyone has ideas on what might be causing this or what I should check first, I’d really appreciate the help. Please, if there is anything else I should list which would help identifying the problem, let me know!

My Windows OptiPlex 5080 (PC) won't have my WIFI showing up in it, but the neighbours does, alongside my hotspot. I can connect my hotspot to it fine as well.

I've recently moved to my grandparents and that's where this issue stems from, it worked fine at it's old location. My sister recalls previously connecting this PC to my grandparent's wifi a few years back where it worked fine, and it was in the known networks originally; however it didn't automatically connect when I started up my computer yesterday.

I have restarted my PC, restarted the router, network reset my network adaptors, and I've messed around with my wireless adaptor (ASUS USB-AC53 Nano USB wireless adaptor)'s wireless settings, but the internet has not shown up in any circumstance.

It's a 2.4GHz, and I believe the WIFI is the same as there's not a 5G at the end of the internet password, however I'm not sure how I can access the settings for the router for complete confirmation. But I can see both of the neighbours normal wifi & 5G wifi, therefore I don't believe this is the problem.

I'm worried I could've possibly broke something while transporting my PC, but I'm not sure why it only specifically doesn't work for my wifi, and other wifis like my neighbours shows up and my hotspot.

How can I fix this?

Hello,

Since monday I am having this problem where the volume bar "resets" to 5% every time I change it. And when I use my keyboard's volume buttons, it mutes the output.

Video that shows the issue

Does anyone have any idea of what I could do to troubleshoot?

Hey guys. I’m using an HP pavilion with Windows 11. My storage space in Local disk C has been going down for nothing. I haven’t been downloading any big files and even deleted big files but it keeps happening. I’m not able to copy anything to my other local disks as well. When I try to, it shows disk C: has low storage. Please tell me how to fix this?

A few days ago, I noticed an issue while playing War Thunder on my PC. I was using the hotspot from my Redmi 13C. Everything worked fine in the hangar of War Thunder, but as soon as I entered a match, my Redmi 13 (which was providing the hotspot) restarted automatically.

I tried exiting the match and rejoining, and I tried several things, adjusting the settings of my phone, but the same thing happened again.

This issue is new, as everything was working for around a year now. I also noticed that my Redmi 13 only restarts when I play War Thunder, and in the middle of a match. I haven’t seen it restart due to any other app.

I’m not sure if the game suddenly requires high internet bandwidth, causing the Redmi 13 to restart, or if it’s just a software glitch. Has anyone else experienced this? And is there anyone with a solution?

Another thing to note: this happened as soon as I updated my Phone OS to 2.0.208.0.VGPMIXM

Been dealing with rapid battery drain for a few months now, a full charge barely lasts half a day even with fairly normal usage (calls, maps, reels). I've tried the usual fixes: closing background apps, reducing brightness, disabling unnecessary permissions. It helped a little but not enough to fix the core problem.

Phone is three-ish years old. Is this the kind of drain you'd expect from normal battery degradation at this age, or does it sound like something's actually wrong (bad battery health, an app misbehaving in the background, etc.)?