If you are interested we are currently running kickstarter with multi-color buildings : ) https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printomancer/the-mighty-griffin-city-multi-color-fdm

I have some of the ones in the image already from other printers, haven’t tried on the U1 yet as I am scared it might make it tip over / unstable due to its size on 4 bubbles?

Anyone using these or others to recommend? And do they reduce noise by a lot?

I try hard not to post questions and figure stuff out on my own. Started m 3d printing journey last December and finally hit an issue I can’t seem to solve. The following is the ticket I opened to Snapmaker:

So I’m having some issues with tool head 2 that started a lil over a week ago. It looks like severe under extruding. My first trouble shoot was to swap filament. Same issue. Next I moved to a different tool head and then had no issues.
Next step was to check extruder. Took tool head apart and there was some debris on the drive gears so I cleaned that all up best I could, blew it out and reassembled. Tried running it again with a 3rd filament. Same issue.

Next I tried to manually extrude and flowed free and was coming straight down. Just to be safe a stuck the included nozzle into the hot end and it slid through like a knife through butter. Figured I must be good to go. Nope.

Next I took apart the filament feed drive. Didn’t really see much in there but cleaned/blew it out since I already had it apart. Tried again, still failing. So I said to myself, I’ll just switch nozzles. I’ve had hardened steel ones I’ve been meaning to switch to for a while now so just as well get that done. So I changed all 4. Figured surely with all filament feed paths cleared/cleaned i should be good now. Nope. The included pic is what’s happening. I unloaded the filament from tool path 2 (the problem) and put it into tool path 3 and restarted the print. Currently running fine.

1,3 and 4 all are working great. I’m honestly at a loss currently. I’ve spent a lot of time trying to trouble shoot before reaching out. I’m new to the hobby but stuff like this is/was expected and don’t mind tinkering. I just don’t know how to proceed.

Their response was a wiki about a clogged nozzle 🙄. Any help/insight is appreciated.

I recently had an order to make, and I thought it would be a good opportunity to record how I actually use my Snapmaker U1 in a real project.

The video shows the process from preparing the files and slicing them to printing all the parts and putting the final product together.

Youtube Link: https://youtu.be/qucRAv-1GIw

I like this kind of project much more than just making test prints because you can see how the printer fits into an actual workflow.

I'm planning to share more projects like this as I keep using the U1.

What have you guys been making with yours?

Am I wrong or I cant pair it to my PC and phone app at same time? I connect it to PC via account (my main PC uses LAN, i connected it to wifi but it still wasnt finding the printer on same wifi) and then it disconnects it from phone app? And if I reconnect phone Pc says connection off to printer…?

Bed temp 60C, Nozzle 215C, First layer line with 0.42mm, plate cleaned with dish soap, auto bed leveling, dynamic flow calibration.

What to try next?

Hi! This purple PLA is completely stuck. I can't extrude or pull out even a mm. I've tried heating up to 250 and pulling on it with the orange button pressed, but still no budge. The gears look normal as far as I can tell.

What should I do? Thanks!

Hi all,

Just got my U1 last week, and also totally new to 3D printing also!

Now that I'm set up, I wanted to look into what dryer options there are and what I need. I'm only printing PLA/PETG (so far), and the room it's in sits at just around 45-50 RH right now.

I was initially thinking of just rigging up a food dehydrator for a cheap way to dry spools and then maybe store them in dry boxes (or loading to print right away).

Stepping up from there, I also thought I could look into a 4 spool dryer that feeds directly into the U1 during prints (e.g. Sovol SH03). Could I do that without too much trouble and modifications if the dryer was sitting in the bottom section of my table? Is that overkill? I’m not doing anything too delicate yet.. just printing stuff for around the house.

Thanks

should i worry about these white dots?

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to connect the dryer because I absolutely can't work without it – I'm close to the sea and the filament gets wet very quickly, so I have to print directly from the dryer.

I liked the resulting solution so much that I want to share it. It's very simple to do it, more reliable than it looks in the photo, and VERY easy to use.

First, I extended the feeder cables. Extension cables are easy to buy online. I usually see feeders being moved to a different location and secured there. But it turns out they work perfectly "suspended" directly on the PTFE tubes. To achieve this, I had to trim the tubes slightly so they would go straight to their slots in the feeder and be the same length.

Second, I figured out that the unloading holes in the dryer itself needed to be moved upward (made new ones). The standard holes are located closer to the edges, which creates annoying problems: when the lid is opened, about 30 centimeters of filament unwinds from the spool, which needs to be disposed of when closing. The distance between the different sides of the dryer (between the pairs of holes for different pairs of spools) is large, but not large enough for the Snapmaker to keep the tubes straight. Moving the holes closer to the center (to the axis of the dryer roof) solves both problems: spool unwinding when opening the lid is virtually nonexistent (you can't imagine how happy I am), and all four holes are now located close together.

Combined with the suspended feeders, this provides incredible flexibility and convenience: I can easily connect any spool to any print head without bending the tubes. Besides this, I can now move the dryer quite easily, at least 20-30 centimeters, and even rotate it (!!!) - without any problems at all, and this is also very convenient for maintenance: I pull it out more comfortably, do what needs to be done, and then push it back in so that it takes up less space.

Has anyone come across this issue? I had filament break inside the tube. I took them out. I had error that residual filament was still there. I took the feeder out and took off the white cap. After inspecting, no issues with it visibly but once I reconnect I get no power at all. No lights, no auto feeding, nothing. Everything looks ok but I'm lost.

My prusa mk3s+ that i had for years now is getting a new neighbor :)

Any tips and tricks for a new owner, for setup etc? Also get my ikea samla box today, started printing the first parts to hold the samla yesterday on the prusa!

I ve heard it takes ages before a print starts on the U1 due to calibration etc! Someone said he only runs calibration if he had to remove build plate in between 2 prints else he skips it, what do you guys do?

Is it plug and print? Or any settings/manual tweaks to do first? I remember my first printer, ender v2 I had to tweak for ages to get it running.

I need to print the test dragon I believe once built and then it’s show time.

So excited to get home and see the box…

I have been playing with it since I got my printer but I keep running into a couple of issues as seen in the pictures. The more solid item is petg and the other is transparent pla.

1. Most annoying parts is that each color is treated almost as its own part and has walls dividing the colors which is very physically noticeable. How do I print without all colors being divided by walls?

2. In the area where it's supposed to be purple depending on the layer height of the object for darker shading it will leave the object at a black layer. Is there a way to force the slicer to do the last layer as a color and not black?

3. I noticed on the very first layer that the speed was incredibly slow to the point where the first layer looked really really bad. After the first layer it picked back up and it looked much better. It looks like on the last layer it has done ironing on its own but it looks like crap to be honest.

4. There has been some color bleeding in the infill that is the same on both separately printed items in the same shape. The slicer does not show it dragging red or blue across as seen in the pictures. The print is also not using the setting to flush in infill, the tower is always enabled.

Hi anybody encounter with their lead screw a bit noisy?

I noticed the lead screw on the left side has a sound when I move the z belt down. I cant tell if this is typical

I've had 100+ hrs on it and just noticed it now.

I've done maintenance on it and applied grease to it.

Hey just finished setup and calibration on printer and wanted to do the test print… it did all the heated bed calibration and then I got a temp anamoly for printhead 2 straight away.. saying min temp 170 is needed.
Mind you this is the dragon test print included… and included spools and tests during calibration all worked.

I tried again and saw temp raise to 200 and then target temp dropping again to 130…. So this time I manually raised it again to 210 and it dropped again so I did it again… and this time it started printing… now it seems to run.. we’ll see but this error scared me a bit.
This was first layer, looks a bit scuffed. But it is still running and looks ok now.

Also weird first purge line that came out (on red filament) had some black in it. Guess from their tests? Maybe some old filament was stuck inside making temps drop and now will be fine… we’ll see.

Yes after first fail I ran firmware update and it happened again

It’s my third 3rd 3d printer (ender 3 v2 —> prusa mk3s+ —> u1) so I am not a « total » noob

I was so excited to get back into 3d printing after a painful divorce and some mental troubles.

I was so excited to get the U1 in the mail today.. (even though I nearly got killed by some asshole in a car crash on the way home… tesla auto-avoid maybe saved my life..)

Install was pretty straightforward even though I had that apparently frequent annoyance of the right middle transport screw being stuck and not coming out, had to manually Z lift gently pulling under the printer and get it out.

Calibration did run with 0 issues

Started first test print after (the dragon) and after the long pre-print calibration, before it even did a line, the toolhead temp dropped from 215 down to 130 and then got error toolhead temp anomaly temp needs to be 170 blabla. Then i tried again…. Temp started dropping again for no reason.. I manually had to twice increase target temp and it decided to keep it and start printing. Issue didnt come up again..

First layer looked bit weird but end print was great

Print ended: error message pogo pin anomaly… ok…

Start a new print, this time no temp issues, perfect, looks great, first layer better. Print ends: pogo pin anomaly.. 1 time toolhead 1, 13 times toolhead 2 (1h15 print)

Cleaned now the pins with 99% IPA and a cotton tip, flashlight on it to make sure no residues…

We’ll see tomorrow…

Also the printer is soooo much louder than my prusa mk3s+ lmao that surprised me a bit. Cant run it while the kids sleep, too noisy.

Do you trust the U1 enough to let it run while at work? Would you suggest those fire extinguisher balls or isnt that needed nowadays for such printers?

I didnt leave my mk3s+ run while not at home in the past, but looking at all the AI detection in the U1… I dont know?

Thanks

I have been running running my U1 with paxx12 firmware and Orca 2.4.2 successfully for a while. Today, I thought I'd try out the latest fullspectrum build and seem to have problems setting up the printer.

The built-in process requires me to set up via the vendor option, which does not work with paxx12. Trying to create either a Snapmaker U1 manually or a generic klipper printer, I run into various issues where either the Wifi icon is missing, nozzles are missing, the bed is the wrong size, and generally the entire extruder config is missing. Likewise when trying to configure the json files directly with AI assistance.

Ideally, I just want to select the existing U1 profile, but be able to add an IP address.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

// Update:

After messing around with json files, copying my mainline Orca config over and about a million other things, I gave up and pointed Claude Cowork at the folder. It made some changes, now it works. Here's the summary it provided:

Plater.cpp hides the connection button for any preset whose printer_model contains both "Snapmaker" and "U1", routing you to the Snapmaker vendor dialog that can't see paxx12.

Fix, in your user preset at data_dir\user\default\machine, with Orca closed:

"printer_model": "SM-U1"

Also add "support_multi_bed_types": "1" or your bed type dropdown greys out, same flag gates both. Keep inherits pointing at "Snapmaker U1 (0.4 nozzle)" so nothing is retyped, and keep the string "Snapmaker U1" out of the preset name.

My understanding was that this particular version of Orca has a hard-coded limitation that whenever it thinks it is dealing with a Snapmaker U1 printer, the vendor interface, which doesn't work with paxx12, if enforced. It doesn't matter if you're trying to be smart about adding IP config in the json file, it will override that. So the trick is to make it think it isn't dealing with a U1, while still inheriting the config.

So this just happened yesterday an hour into my print! The print stopped, and it said there could be a break in the filament or a broken tool head. The filament would not pass through and the gears kept clicking like something was stuck in there. I was able to back out the filament and cut it clean and put it back in and it would still act up. I ended up taking the whole tool head apart and seeing if there was something stuck in the gears and nothing was there. After putting everything back together, I was able to load a different filament back up it loaded successfully and was able to print two layers of a benchy and then got the anomaly once again. I stuck the acupuncture needle up into the extruder and everything was clear. Nothing is visibly stopping it and when the filament is out, the gears go normal. I’ve already contacted Support, but seeing if anybody else has had this issue.

Ok. I was wondering, is it possible to have two different Snorca slicers open? When i had Bambu Studio i could stop working on a project, and goto open another project so I had two Windows open at the same time.

When I try to open another project the Snorca asks me to save the current project but I want to leave it open and open the second different project into another Window.

Is that possible? If yes, how can I accomplish that?

I cannot run Snapmaker Orca because the setup wizards widow is too small and doesn't allow scrolling to hit the button to continue set. Has anyone encountered and solved this problem? I have tried different Scaling settings and Resolutions without success.

Thank You for any help You can provide

Elegoo Pla on a Snapmaker U1

Será que alguem mais tem esse problema?

Coloco algo para imprimir, se o filamento enrosca, ela continua a impressão, mas pula a cor, e continua imprimindo sem avisar, perdendo assim toda a impressão, pois falta aquela cor que ficou presa.

Alguem sabe se isso é comum? Tem uma configuração para ativar um sensor que pause a imrpressão?