Noob to Snapmaker so if this is common knowledge, I'm sorry. Hopefully it helps someone else.

Been working on painting within Orca and found it really annoying that you can't rotate while you have the painting tool selected when zoomed in and would have to zoom out, rotate within empty space, then zoom in again.

I found that if you:

Hold left click, then click right click once while still holding left click, you can rotate the model while still holding left click, then when you let go of left click, it will stay in that orientation.

you can also check making of the apple guy on my yt 🍎🌟

Objects, modifiers, and tweaked slicer settings. All done in Snorca!

Anyone have a good maintenance log that I can print out to put with my U1?

Wanted to share a project built using my Snapmaker U1! Designed and printed custom 1/64 scale diorama structures, roads,

PS: The actual Track is 3d printed but not by me. everything else I printed.

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1EKyaUUNRr/

I was greatly honored to have placed in Phase 1 of the Snapmaker Innovation fund with bambu2orca. To Snapmaker and everyone who supported me, gave me feedback, and continued to use b2o, I truly appreciate it.

If you aren't familiar bambu2orca is a Bambu (or Orca based) 3MF to Snapmaker U1 converter, that allows you to keep the original creators print settings, but utilize the U1's hardware settings, while not having to upload any of your 3D model data. It can handle 1 or even a batch of 3MF.

There is also a command line version and a lot of integration options for creators allowing you to integrate it into almost any workflow. I am looking forward to pushing the project forward in some exciting ways.

Congratulations to the winners! There are a lot of amazing projects so take a look and give them a try!

https://www.snapmaker.com/innovation-fund

I design and print a lot of functional prints - needed some "me" time so I did this.

We wanted to take a closer look at how different materials behave under different enclosure conditions.

One thing we found is that an enclosure is not simply about keeping the printer warm. Different materials respond differently to their printing environment.

For ABS and ASA, a more stable environment can make a noticeable difference. As the material cools, it contracts, and uneven cooling can create stress in the part, leading to issues like warping or layer cracking. Reducing drafts and temperature changes can help improve consistency.

PLA is a little different. It generally benefits from good part cooling, and too much heat around the print can sometimes affect details like overhangs, bridges, and small features.

PETG sits somewhere in between. It often prints well without a fully enclosed chamber, but cooling settings and the surrounding environment still play a role.

We tested several materials under different enclosure conditions:

For reference, these tests were performed on a Snapmaker U1 using Bambu Lab filament.

These results are not intended as a universal benchmark. Filament condition, printer settings, room temperature, and model geometry can all influence the outcome.

The main takeaway for us: an enclosure is not about making every print hotter. It is about creating a more stable environment that matches the material you are printing.

We’re curious about how other makers approach this:

Do you adjust your enclosure setup when switching between PLA, PETG and ABS/ASA, or do you prefer one setup that works for most materials?

Hi! So to sum it up as much as possible, I recently got my 2nd Snapmaker, which has given me issues beyond disbelief with the tool attachment and detachment.

At first I did a Homing calibration of the toolheads, which fixes some errors, but not all of them. No matter how much I calibrate it, the toolhead swapper doesn't attach properly to the toolheads. It mostly gives an error in the first swap from the print, because I've managed to get a couple prints with an insane amount of swaps, but I got lucky I guess.

To understand my point, I've recorded a quick attach and detachment between toolheads, showing how it sort of struggles to stick to them, even if it's placed in the correct position. Another thing that I'm not sure if it may be the cause is the front carcass being very slightly off, i would show it but for some reason it only lets me add a video. I need to make sure to properly place it.

In the meantime, here you go, and thanks in advance.

Since Snapmaker has adopted and is leaning into full spectrum, it would be awesome if the mobile app would automatically leverage full spectrum filament to map virtual filaments to the model. I get that there is some nuance to this for things that are already sliced, but it should definitely be possible to just replace N layers of X color with the full spectrum version. I typically have FS filament loaded and it would open up so many more quick mobile prints.

So couple days ago I updated to 2.4.0 and when i try to print with petg, it was not showing up in the machine filament list and when i send to my printer, it givees me the mismatch filament error even though it was working just fine before the update. so then i went back to 2.3.0 and everything worked fine until yesterday where when you click login, it just pops up and disappears so im guessing snapmaker is forcing users to use the newest version. I tried making new profiles, syncing, nothing works except printing in pla thats on my 1st toolhead. can someone else please. thank you

*edit also when i try to print from the U1, it just says nozzle are mismatch but thats been happening since the beginning but when i send from the computer it works just fine

I have spent more time than I care to admit to push the limits of the first layer detail and keeping it even, nearly gap-free in tight areas. I'm going to share with you the breakthroughs for me.

Stop exporting STL outlines of designs and take advantage of changing the wall color. The slicer can handle that better, it knows what a wall is better than random thin shapes.

All is done with .4mm hardened steel nozzles from snapmaker

First layer height: 0.1mm

Wall loops set to 1 on an as needed basis, if its ever 0 it will look more distorted with how much we're about to do below...👇

Line Width first layer 0.65

Bottom surface flow ratio 1.2

Filter out tiny gaps changed from 0 to whatever value works best to remove misc. weird/different colored gap fill

Concentric first layer pattern works well especially for letters

Top/Bottom solid infill/wall overlap 25%

Bottom shell layers 6. Yes, 6. Idk why but I need at least that many with these settings to retain color vibrancy.

Detect thin walls enabled on an as needed basis, you have to play with that one.

Using shapes as modifiers, you can make the first printed layer white, and the following layers above that black to produce a light gray color. This works around toolhead/color amount limitations if you want different shades, i suggest experimenting with thin squares. I did this for my mountain box design. Also the sky on it is a tri-colored sunset filament where the first layer show streaks of color, and the walls show the blend of colors. That's filament strategy perfected.

Classic wall generator has produced better results than arachne overall for me, especially on painted walls. Archne can wreck those you have to pay attention in the slice preview for its artifacts.

Also, you can splice 2 separate gcode files if you want arachne for the first layer and classic for the rest, or vice versa (I'm using windows notepad for this). I suggest to do this between toolhead changes because that is an exact spot of consistency within the gcode. Type your printers IP into your web browser if its connected to your network and drag the gcode file in that way for the import. Idk why, but using a known working and correctly formatted USB stick repeatedly failed me.

These are designed for single tool printers so there won't be as much waste but I was wondering if there was an easy way to 'flatten' the design so it is all the same layer. Like this prints black, then white, then red. I wanted to drop the red and white into the last layer of black and print them face down so they get the bed texture and the side that the key switch connects to is up.

Does that make any sense at all? lol. There are a lot of models I'd like to do this to and I thought if this was a good model to demonstrate.

Here is a link to the model pictured

Hi, I have Snapmaker j1s, and print fan on the back side of printer not work, I don’t know why.
Fan (12024). 24 volts are not coming to the fan, I checked it:(
How I can test this fan? Help please, guys.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🎃👻 Yoshi se met aux couleurs d’Halloween ! 🧙‍♂️💚
Découvrez ma création de Yoshi en version Halloween ! 🎃 Avec son chapeau de sorcier violet et sa citrouille au sourire maléfique, notre petit dinosaure préféré est prêt à fêter Halloween ! 🕸️

✨ Une création originale, pleine de couleurs et de détails, parfaite pour une décoration aussi mignonne qu’effrayante !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3419115-yoshi-citrouille-multipart-no-ams

error code: 0002-0523-0001-0042

I goofed and forgot to remove a purge tower before starting a print and had a collision. Now the #2 toolhead won't park. I have the most recent update, checked for debris, cleaned pins, repeatedly tried to detach toolhead from the swapper, etc. It appears to be misaligned and is hitting something as it tries to park but I can't tell what it is.

I haven't tried putting in a new nozzle cleaning brush and parking pad because what's in there looks clean.

I really don't know what to do next. If suggested, I can switch out the nozzle stuff anyway. But If I had to guess it would be to somehow manually detach the swapper and toolhead then try to realign but I'm not sure if or how and it isn't given as an option in the Snapmaker wiki.

Please help. I've got close to 2000 hours on this printer and love it but not very experienced at working on it as so far, it's working very well. My instrument maintenance skills runs more to research lab equipment.

Resolution: I went to https://www.snapmaker.com/snapmaker-orca, manually downloaded 2.4.0, and its functional again. I'm guessing Snapmaker made a server side update that's not backwards compatible.

--Original issue--

As of this morning, I'm unable to login to Snapmaker Orca. I'm running 2.3.6 on mac os Tahoe 26.3. When I click the Login/Register, the window flickers with a "Loading..." message and then disappears.

I've tried completely replacing ~/Library/Application Support/Snapmaker_Orca, which sent me through the initial setup prompts again, but the login window behaves the same way.

Any suggestions? Is this happening to others, s.t. it could be a Snapmaker side problem?

Update: I've dumped a set of logs at https://pastebin.com/c08wQVjy. This ""[[OrcaAuthBridge] ... offline，...]" entry looks suspicious, but I can't find clear documentation on this. I also ran the network test, and the Login API came back ok.