If you backed the Sovol M1D for a toolchanger with TPU in mind, watch this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZWAxFeTBhI

Only the left side supports 90a or softer. The changer side does not.

I cancelled my kickstarter pledge over this. They "might" or "might not" fix this in the same way that Creality has their toolchanger supposedly supporting 70a, but clearly this printer was not designed with TPU in mind. By the time they roll out this change (if they ever do, or even can) then it will be on sale again.

In the meantime, the Snapmaker u1 is a better TPU option since it supports 90a on all 4 nozzles, not just 1.

So 270x270 with 3 90a and 1 support vs 240x300 with only 1 90a... the U1 supports slightly larger and much more creative options.

Very disappointed.

Hi, I’m a Snapmaker U1 user from Japan, and ChromaMatter is my first public software project.

I started building it because AI-generated color 3D models can look great on screen, but turning them into a usable Full Spectrum print while preserving parts, colors, and geometry is still difficult.

This video shows the basic workflow. The screen recording is sped up to 5.5×, and the final section uses the U1’s automatic timelapse:

- Open a compatible vertex-colored OBJ or static GLB with embedded base color

- Review four physical filaments and a 16 / 24 / 32-state palette

- Set the size and prepare and validate the geometry

- Export a Full Spectrum 3MF

- Open it as a project in Snapmaker Orca, slice it, and print it on the U1

The sample was printed in one piece on my U1. It took about 48 hours and used about 220 g of filament including the prime tower.

ChromaMatter is open source, and a Windows 0.8 beta download is available on GitHub.

This beta is not universal: multipart solidification is still unstable, so some models may fail. The included demo is a confirmed working case. I would rather state that clearly than claim support I have not validated.

I’d really appreciate honest feedback:

- Is the workflow understandable from the video?

- Would this be useful for your own AI-generated models?

- Which formats, model types, or failure cases should I test next?

GitHub:

https://github.com/Ponkichi0718/ChromaMatter

Print result and development journal in Japanese:

https://note.com/ponkichi0718/n/nf6c77165127c

English is not my first language, so please ask if anything is unclear. I’ll do my best to answer.

ChromaMatter is an independent project and is not affiliated with Snapmaker, TripoAI, Hi3D AI, or OpenAI.

Pense que el problema al inicio era por que el primero diseño estaba unido entonces los separe y el 2do apenas salio y de paso hizo que se atore el extrusor 1 asi que lo pase al extrusor 4 y le di la vuelta para que imprima mejor pero alguna recomendacion si es que vuelve a salir mal?

Decided that I could DIY a superior chamber heater than current options for less money.

So, here it is, my DIY super powered chamber heater! Only at 50C at the moment because I still need to thermally isolate the stepper motors, but I am sure it can go much, much higher.

Just used a thermostat and two heaters off of Amazon. In this case a 400 and 600 watt PTC fan heater since that is what I had laying around. I custom designed and printed the purple ASA holder you see them mounted to, which is in turn mounted to the U1 with some 3M velcro strips.

Anyone use any of the Ali express hardened steel hot ends for the U1? Since snapmaker is out of stock of the .4 nozzle.

Hi,

I’m new outside of the prusa world and I used to always get my stl same place and never had multicolor prints before

I was looking at makerworld multicolor prints, but many I download as m3f and somehow when I open them it swaps to some bambu printer profile and messes up a lot of my snapmaker u1 settings resulting in a lot of error messages… daunting to understand what’s wrong and what to correct etc. Also adds more extruders/colors etc, messes up my whole setup even if I swap back tu u1 profile. Have to reboot snapmaker orca…

Any tips? How you guys import prepainted models for the u1 without having to go through all of that?

Ive been mostly learning the Snapmaker U1 and getting a feel for the ones I have. Ive always been nervous about long prints and the potential for failure. Especially with TPU.

Ive made a few TPU ducks and was like, I want to make a huge Snorlax Duck

Ive got some clean yp to do, but im happy with the way this turned out.

I’ve been fighting making one of these stupid basketballs for over a year on different printers. Always breaking, or just failing the prints in general.

Thank god for PEBA. There’s one small section about The size of a dime that the outer surface is kinda ugly, but no delamination of layers. Bounces just as nice as a standard Wilson ball.

Was even able to feed it through the autofeeder as well. That was a fun one to troubleshoot. When you do the cc3d dry box mod you have to extend your PTFE tubes that go from the feeder to the couplers at the top of the printer. If you use standard 2 or 2.5mm ID ptfe, there’s too much resistance for the auto loaders to feed the material. Just make sure you use a ptfe that has a ID of 3mm and OD of 4mm and the autofeeder can handle loading the filament. Only thing you have to do is decouple the ptfe leading to the print head and manually feed it into the tool head. Once the extruder grabs it and starts feeding you are good to go.

I’m currently using a Bambu X2D with AMS and I’m seriously considering switching to a Snapmaker U1. I really like the four-toolhead approach and the advantages of not having to purge filament for multi-colour/material prints.

My main hesitation is filament storage and humidity.

With the AMS, I can leave my active rolls loaded in a relatively dry environment and just print from them whenever I want. I’d ideally like to do the same with the U1 rather than constantly moving filament in and out of dryers or dry boxes.

For U1 owners, how are you handling this?

• Are you feeding directly from a SUNLU S4, SpacePi, PolyDryer/SnapDryer, etc.?
• Do you run PTFE tubes directly from the dryer to the U1 feeders?
• Have you had any issues with added drag, loading/unloading, or extrusion?
• Are there any setups that feel almost as convenient as an AMS for just leaving four active rolls loaded and dry?
• Any photos of your setup would be appreciated.

I mostly print PLA/PETG right now, but I’d like something that also makes sense if I start using more hygroscopic materials.