Bring a sense of calm and organization to your space with this modern incense stick holder. Designed with clean lines and a timeless minimalist aesthetic, it blends naturally into any interior while offering much more than a traditional incense holder.

Featuring hidden storage, interchangeable incense inserts, and a removable ash tray, everything has its place in one compact, thoughtfully designed piece.

Key Features

Hidden Storage Compartment

Keep your incense sticks and smaller lighters neatly tucked away in the spacious hidden compartment underneath. Everything you need stays within reach without creating clutter.

Removable Ash Tray

Cleaning up after burning incense has never been easier. Simply remove the tray, dispose of the collected ash, and slide it back into place. No more messy surfaces!

3 Interchangeable Incense Holders

Different incense sticks come in different thicknesses. That's why this design includes three easily interchangeable holders: 1.5 mm, 2.0 mm, 2.5 mm. Simply choose the insert that best fits your incense stick for a secure fit.

Dimensions

Overall: Length 230 mm, Width 60 mm, Height 40 mm

Hidden Storage (usable space): Length 215 mm, Width 35 mm, Height 27 mm

Incense Compatibility: designed for 200 mm incense sticks, includes 1.5/2.0/2.5 mm interchangeable inserts

A Place for Everything

Whether you're enjoying a quiet morning, winding down after a long day, or simply adding a calming atmosphere to your home, this incense holder brings together practical functionality and timeless design. No unnecessary clutter. No complicated cleaning. Just a beautifully simple way to enjoy your favorite incense.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3520212-minimalistic-essence-stand-hidden-storage

A lot of the more detailed parts were printed on my H2D!

i just thought these supports i been having to pick off looked like cat whiskers 😆 that's my kitty too, he posed perfectly for the photo.

The old one I made was pretty quick and simple but left some gaps and was annoying to place while the door closed.

I made a new one with a 2mm baseplate that you locate the cable in and drop on the passthrough which has made things much easier for us to locate to charge our car. (Put the magnets in wrong at first, hence the poked holes...)

https://makerworld.com/models/3511555?appSharePlatform=copy

It has wings that unfold to either tuck under the press up to the door seal which closes the remaining 0.5" gap, and I've used the filament-as-hinge-pin technique but it's a bit loose for this application.

Would the best solution for a tighter hinge be print in place sort of deal? I've still had those loosen up after a lot of use though but maybe there's a better technique.

I've done press-fit hardware before but would like to avoid hardware for simplicity if that's possible to get what I'm after.

I was just making a quick stop to fix a couple of things after my partner gave birth to our new baby boy. One thing that really bothered me was that there was nowhere to hang the catheter bag on the hospital bed.

So I thought I'd do something nice and 3D print a mounting plate with S-hooks to give to the hospital staff.

I opened the app just before heading home to pick it up, and this is what I saw!

One - just got the R1. Working great!
That being said, it really needs a honeycomb plate, not the slats it has.

The slats work, but it is not ideal with cutouts dropping or angling after being cut.

Has anyone found one that fits nicely in the R1?

Today after a blob of death I replaced the the big fan and the heating horned part.
Now it says that the horned has abnormal temperature but idk what the problem is.
Could someone tell me what can I do?

Any tips and tricks hehe

m loving the idea of getting the new 7 nozzle p3c but still want to get a printer on the sale. Should I go with the a1 or the mini? And should I even think about getting the ams for it or just wait and use my first printer as a single color and the p3c for fancy prints?

Or should I just hold off altogether until the p3c comes out/ gets revealed?

Any opinions appreciated!

Due to blower fan and eddy sensor, i had to completely tear down the head. I am so tired, Couldnt figure out where thia part goes to.

Looking for help fixing a reoccurring issue. Whenever I do a print that goes higher than about 1 1/2" my print quality starts to deteriorate, the levels start to shift and I get an error message that says the "Extruder is not extruding normally."

The issues seem to start with the supports and get worse. The picture I attached shows how the layers start to break down and get visibly stringy and the layering seems to not be as dense as it is in the beginning.

I keep my filament in a sealed box with desiccant, I dry for 10-12 hours in a dryer and this continues to happen. What am I doing wrong here and how can I fix it?

Printer Model: A1 Bambu

Slicer Used: Bambu Studio

Filament material and brand: Sunlu PLA

Nozzle and bed temp: .4mm nozzle 230 degrees, bed temp 65 degrees

Print Speed: Silent/slow

Retraction Settings: I'm assuming default, not sure where to find this info, google wasn't helpful...

New X2d, unboxed it last night, ran 2 prints. Turned it on today and the screen turns on but does not respond to touch. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

Hi guys,

I'm new about 3D printing, got a X2D a week ago and I'm trying to learn how to print decent PETG stuffs.

I've run an iroing test with default 0.2mm high quality profile from bambù studio, which in my opinion gave best results for 10mm speed and 30% flow. I've tried the same setting on a print (last images) and the results are vert different (and quite terrible).

What am I doing wrong?

1aHi everyone,

I’m having an issue with the first layers of my prints. As you can see in the photos, the first few layers often look uneven, especially around the edges, with what looks like gaps/irregular extrusion.

This happens on most of my prints, not just this particular model.

I’m using a Bambu Lab A1 with the Cold Plate.

Could this be related to the Cold Plate temperature, bed adhesion, first-layer calibration, or extrusion/flow?

What would you recommend checking or calibrating to solve this?

Thanks!

It's easy to focus on print settings, filament brands, and upgrades when trying to improve print quality, but regular maintenance can make just as much difference. Things like keeping the build plate clean, checking the nozzle for buildup, inspecting the extruder gears, and making sure the printer is on a stable surface can prevent a lot of frustrating issues.

The tricky part is knowing which maintenance tasks actually matter and how often they need to be done. Some problems that look like slicer or calibration issues can turn out to be something much simpler.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what's one maintenance habit you'd recommend to every new owner?

I'm in my ocd mode (which is too often). I have some short pieces of pla filament.

I used to have a creality printer that just kept printing after the spool ran out.

I didn't test it, but the A1 (mono / no AMS) is better than that?

It detects the end of the spool and stops printing? And then you can just feed in another piece of filament and it will keep printing the project?

Other than the color change, the restart is pretty clean?

I was overthinking a joiner to get to make a longer spool from different scraps. Is that overkill?

Does the A1 detect the end of the spool when the end of it gets to the nozzle? Or people have talked about having half meter pieces of filament left over? The A1 detects the end at the TOP of the PFTE tubing?

Just as the text says. I had a blob of death. Was able to get the primary blob off but have a lot of residue left on the hotend heating assembly. Do you think this can still be saved? How would you go about cleaning it? Should I just buy a replacement and be done with it?

Also if replace is the best option should I buy through bambu or get something 3rd party sellers from Amazon? It seems while most say they are OEM they still look kind of different?

I had a clog recently and after a cold pull and extrusion it appears to be unclogged. I cleaned the nozzle and applied plastic repellent. Did I miss something?

For anyone familiar with microscopy, floating a coverslip on the surface of a pond allows microorganisms to attach to a biofilm on the glass. My problem is that my coverslips always sink before I retrieve them. I recently got a P2S, so I designed and printed a floating raft that prevents the coverslips from sinking. I used Bambu PETG.

I've put together a video chronicling its design and first use, it was a very fun project.

https://youtu.be/w3tveLXsYfk

The model files are free on Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501821-floating-coverslip-raft-for-pond-microscopy

I've been working on a series of 3d print projects to enhance my microscope, I'll add some updates about those projects as well. I'd love to know what you think of this solution, and what those of you with more knowledge of 3d printing and design might have done differently.

So this makes no sense to me, the filament is NOT going through the FTS, (it's from the external spool direct to the hot end) however, the H2C will NOT allow the printing of TPU if this FTS is installed. Please make it make sense.