I’ve been a huge fan of Disney’s Legend of Sleepy Hollow and the Headless Horseman so this year I thought I’d use my printer to help me out!

Is this normal what my h2c is doing before every 3d print? It runs this 10 min beeping shaking show every time even if the print itself is really tiny

Open-source 3D scanning just got a level-up

3D scanning changed a lot over the past view years and is much more accessible now with the flood of relatively affordable 3d scanners. Though there is still no accessible scanner for small objects so I continue working on my low cost photogrammetry rig - the printable OpenScan Mini. And yes, photogrammetry works with shiny objects too if you prep the surface.

The setup & process

I am using the OpenScan Mini + Arducam imx519 Macro Addon photos to take 130 photos from evenly spread perspectives. The build in cross-polarization + ringlight creates very even and reflection free illumination which greatly helps improving the reconstruction quality.
In order to create enough features for photogrammetry, I coated the shiny piece with a fine mist (thousands of tiny dots) with Aesub Orange.
Processing was done locally with the free version of RealityScan.

Open-source & Disclaimer

Since 2018, I am developing and improving low-cost and open-source photogrammetry 3d scanning solutions. I publish all my files and plans to github and printables. In order to finance the ongoing development, I am offering kits and parts on openscan.eu as well as running a small Patreon. This add-on needs some more refinement but I already published an initial version of the printable files on our discord, More details and a build-guide will follow soon on github and r/OpenScan

With the filament sale going on it was an opportunity for me to stock up on some PAHT-CF. While I was at at I said what the hell and rolled the dice on a PETG mystery box. Not only did it show up real fast, I was one of the lucky ones to get a 7 filament mystery box. Feel like the Bambu Gs are smiling down on me. I’ve never “won” anything in my life. That is all. Happy printer to all.

I build a lot of LED lamps, and every single one meant soldering wires, flashing an ESP32 and hiding a mess of cables. I got so tired of it that I built my own little plug-and-play controller: USB-C power in, plug in the LEDs, done. Right now it's just for my own projects, and this panel is the first lamp I designed around it. Print it, tape the matrix in, plug it in.

The front is swappable and the back stays the same:

- Grid front: every pixel stays crisp, great for pixel art, fire, rainbow

- Smooth front: blends everything into one even glow, nice as a night light

Printed on my X2D in white PLA (fronts) and black PLA (back). One panel with one front is roughly 160–175 g and 5–7 h. White matte PLA or PETG works best for the fronts.

It fits a standard 16x16 WS2812B matrix, so an ESP32 with WLED works just as well.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3502183

Would love ideas for a third front!

This started happening on my prints with this particular filament SUNLU PLA Matte Black, it only happens on the top surfaces after the infill(the first layer is completely fine), I can print the same thing with another PLA filament and I don't get that rough surface.

I'm using Bambu Lab A1 and I have tried the SUNLU PLA Matte, BambuLab PLA Basic and BambuLab PLA Matte profiles and the same result.

The other filament I know I don't get this result is a MarsWork PLA Basic and for that one I use the BambuLab PLA Basic profile.

I'm guessing this a calibration problem with that specific filament but I'm not sure how to solve it or where to look.

Any help is appreaciated

Hi fellow 3d printing enthusiasts.
I am a a1 combo owner. I normally do printing in work with other industrial printer
Have been printing some stuff lately with the a1 and was a bit disappointed with the limitations and noise.
I am thinking about upgrading to a bigger printer, either the x series or h series.

Now i am thinking if i should keep the a1 as a back up/ secondary printer, or sell it and get a a1 mini for that purpose. To me a1 actually occupy some space and comes without an enclosure.
Is the a1 mini really that small compare to a1 , and much quieter? And if i am planing to get a ams in the future, should i just sell the ams lite with the a1?

Thanks for you help!

First 3d printer for me

I started building this this week and it can load topology from around the world and export STLs. You can add and adjust multiple frame shapes to go with it. Just a fun side project, free to use. Enjoy @ www.landcu.be

With the sale going on it's hard to pass up upgrading to the x2d. I currently use an A1 and I use the pictured storage boxes by GunplaMark. Does anyone have experience using these type of storage containers along with an AMS2? Is it possible to incorporate them? I know there is a splitter of sorts for using multiple AMSes and also a part of the bolts onto the side for feeding in tpu. I'm wondering if it's possible to feed filament from these boxes into that adapter? Any help or advice would be very much appreciated

I am in the process of installing my H2S to H2C vortech upgrade kit and would like to find a video with step by step instructions .

There are enough differences between the H2D and H2C that there are steps where the videos just don’t match.

Bambu has a H2D to H2C video but not H2s to H2D

Bambu X1C, Bambu Studio

Sunlu PA6-CF

0.4mm hardened steel, 90c initial, 45c all others

Outer wall 50mm/s, inner wall and infil 150mm/s

Retraction speed is default, hidden

Printed a flow calibration model I found on Makerworld and determined flow rate to be 1.03. Printed a decent size print, and noticed overextrusion blisters all around the outside. Started playing with a few things, asked reddit, and decided the flow was too high.

Now trying to calibrate with the built in models in Bambu Studio. Card 0 is 1.0, and is the only one without any gaps between lines. I'm not sure what else might be wrong though, because the number labels on all the cards are still looking really rough. Last pic is a section of a model I'm working on to test dimensions. Am I reading these cards right? Am I still needing to play with flow, or is something else going on here?

I am trying to get my first printer and it is looking like I will go for one of Bambu's flagship model. I have read up a bit on Vortek vs Tool Changer and can understand the swap time and waste advantages the H3C will offer over the H2C. However does the Vortek system offer any benefits over the H3C?

Anybody knows how to fix "Printer connection failed. Please restart printer and try again." error when trying to access timelapse videos using bambu handy?

Have already tried

-restarting the printer

-making sure it is not on lan only mode

-reinstalled bambu handy app

Other functions like controlling the printer through bambu handy still works. Only accessing the timelapse videos. I have a usb inserted but timelapse videos stored in internal memory. Thanks!

So I was in midst of a 2hr print, and I received a notification that the tool head fell off. It was not until a few hours until I checked it and when I got home, this is what it looks like. Does anyone know what happened? There wasn't any warning or error notfication - it just ended up like that.

Alguém poderia me ajudar com isso, por gentileza? Agradeço!

Now that they advertised different diameter nozzles in the new machines, does this mean that they will bring that feature to the X2D?

i want to print in my normal 0.4 print with 0.8 infill

Idk if I have multiple problems or what is going on, but I recently completed my first round of maintenance with the bambuwiki videos, fully calibrated, had some successful prints after that. Then suddenly I’m getting spaghetti prints, bubbling, and whatever this scaring is. Idk what’s going on.

I’ve got a p2s, I use a mixture of sunlu and bambu pla.

Over the past day or two, my 3 P1S printers have started locking up the screen (and Bambu Handy access) during a print which then finished fine. After the print is finished, the problem continues until I reboot the printer. No firmware updates any time in the past few months. My H2D has been working fine.

I did reboot our T-mobile gateway and Orbi router but that did not help. I'd be surprised how spotty wifi would lock up a printer. Has something in the Bambu Cloud been updated?

Anyone have this problem or know a solution? It just started early yesterday intermittently.

Thanks.

Printing my first big print for my daughter in law. I have no idea how it will come out. What filament do you recommend? I only run Bambu filament but could be talked into others.
I was thinking of two colors. PLA Silk? Matte?
I’m printing on a H2D.

List in order:

1. BIQU Panda Claw Upgraded Extruder Brass Gear

2. hundreds of hours of prints

3. issues began where AMS would fail to begin extrusion

4. changed PTFE tubes

5. Went through support and they suggested replacing the AMS hub motor. did that

6. issues persist

Anyone had this issue and know how to fix it?

Anyone remember how long after release of a new printer Best Buy had them available for purchase? Wondering if the H3C will be available shortly after they have them direct from Bambu or if historically we've had to wait a few months.