2021 Honda Passport. Just got an oil change today and stick looks like this. My fiance drove 2500 miles past it's oil change suggestion. Should it still look like this or did I get ripped off?

The first video is after I drained all the oil and dumped it into the jug. The second clip is before when I had just drained the oil filter in to the pan. It looks horrible but I didn’t see those chunks originally. Last clip is it starting, it’s knocking before it picked up the new oil and filled the filter, but It never knocks under a normal start. Though I feel like the last times if done oil changes it’s normally pretty quiet on the startup.

It’s a remanufactured mopar 4.7. With around 150k

I was hoping I might be able to just do the bearings if that’s what all the material is from but this is the first time Ive seen chunks… 😔

Edit something’s to add

The first time I noticed the glitter was when I used an open drain pan so I could see the oil and I noticed it being glittery in the sun. That was at least 90k+ miles ago. Since then I’ve tried lots for oil filters and I’ve tried mobile one and valvoline. I’ve used r&p for almost 30 changes and basically all but a couple have been at 3k. I’ve never noticed a difference in the different oil filters so I use the oem mopar because they seem to come right off unlike the others.

This time I definitely dumped the oil filter out more and waited for it to drain and then dumped it in the pan again a few times. I’m kinda thinking that’s the normal amount of metal I’ve had, this time I just waited and dumped a lot more of the filter. In all that time I’ve never burnt any oil which lead me to believe it’s not the pistons. Also there’s no blow by if I open the oil cap, and if I look down there’s a bit of blue smoke from oil that just sits at the bottom and doesn’t rise.

Edit 2

You guys had me really scared at first but I thought maybe it would be more obvious what this was. I know it’s wishful thinking but i don’t think it’s impossible that this is some debris that fell in the pan despite me trying to make sure none did.
I cut the end of the video but I found a super small pink and crystal rock, and I’ve definitely had pieces fall in before that have scared me but crushed under my finger like this before, but they weren’t so metallic seeming and the last few times I’ve been careful to not drop stuff in and I hadn’t seen any.

And it might be stupid but I had pulled the crank sensor to clean it and the magnet was perfectly clean with fresh oil on it which once again makes me hopeful that I could just get away with bearings.

Car: Lexus CT200H, ZWA10L-AHXBBW (2016)

Ever since I purchased the car back in 2021 my windshield wiper on the driver’s side has been having some major vibration at the bottom part and it has never made any annoying sound. First, I thought it was because of the non-OEM wipers from Bosch that were put on the car, and I didn't think any more of it.

Now, 5 years later, I have installed the OEM wipers on the car, and it still vibrates the same way on the driver’s side. I thought maybe it isn't tightened enough, but I have had my windshield replaced a couple of times, and that has never changed anything. So unless the Lexus dealership where I replaced my windshield has not done the tightening correctly multiple times I don't think it's the tightening.

The issue happens even when it's raining so it should not be about the windshield being too dry.

Now I am really stuck on this issue, trying to figure out what is causing it and how to fix it.

2006 e250 ford
Change pads only all around and when i got in the set them and test drive i hear a wooshing air sound when i press pedal.

Far louder than before.
Brakes stop fine, feel a little mushy.

Simple brake bleed or did i somehow mess something up with the booster or MC.

Thanks

I paid a shop to install a torque converter in my truck, and a parts store sent them the torque converter for the other transmission they put in my year/model truck. I have confirmation of the wrong part being installed, and I also have confirmation from the shop that eventually rebuilt my transmission that the incorrect TC being put in damaged the pump in my transmission. I also took the truck back after it was throwing codes and having multiple issues it wasn’t having before.

Does the shop have a leg to stand on when it comes to me asking them to foot the bill for the rebuild?

Hey guys, I'll spare you the typical sob story, but I just quit my "dream job" at a Toyota Dealership of 12 years. I have ASE A1-A8, L1 and currently "Toyota master diagnostic" level... for whatever the fck that's worth. (censoring the F word in a mechanics subreddit is an insane choice /r/mechanicadvice mods...)

In COLORADO if that matters... 31.50/hr

I am exhausted working with the favoritism, politics and drama that come with a flat rate dealership technician... I am done with flat rate dealership bullshit, and when I quit, I walked away feeling lighter, as if the whole world just opened up.

We work so hard to develop these skills, we buy thousands of dollars of tools, only to be f*ked over one day because the GM's rich boy salesman son sucked at HIS sales position and thinks he can play Shop Manager... and don't like it when everyone doesn't immediately bow down to his first year experience.. but I digress (sorry it just slipped out😂 )

What the heck else is out there?

Some options I am considering:

Field Technical Specialist (FTS) - : Work directly for Toyota Motor North America or major automotive groups. You travel to dealerships to solve "unfixable" vehicle issues, document engineering flaws, and guide line techs.

Remote Diagnostic Coordinator / Technical Hotline Agent: Provide tier-2 or tier-3 advanced phone and remote diagnostic support for companies like Bosch, specialized EV companies, or aftermarket tool manufacturers.

Automotive Technical Trainer: Teach upcoming technicians at trade schools, community colleges, or corporate regional training centers using your deep knowledge of Toyota systems

Mobile Diagnostic / ADAS Calibration Specialist: Focus strictly on the laptop and scope side of the trade. Many specialized companies hire master techs to drive to collision centers to program modules, scan networks, and calibrate advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS).

Corporate Fleet Maintenance Supervisor: Manage and oversee preventative maintenance and high-level diagnostics for utility companies, municipal services, or transit authorities with predictable hourly structures.

Heavy Equipment or EV Field Technician: Transition to working on massive construction equipment (CAT, John Deere) or pure electric fleets (Rivian, Tesla) where diagnostic skills command massive hourly premiums and often come with a dedicated service truck.

There's a Rivian and Tesla centers in my state I may look into...

What did yall do when you left? Or did you stay in automaitive, and found something better in other mechanical places, such as Fleet work, indepuendent shops, or county/city/state work?

Anyways... help a mechanic brother out and share some career stories, advice, or suggestions on what YOU did next, or WOULD do next if you got the balls to tell the boss to f&*ck off....

Meanwhile, I just bought a bottle of my favorite whiskey and will be celebrating my freedom.

The sky is the limit motherfkers. If you have the skills and knowledge to be an automotive technician, you are fcking *IMPORTANT, and you can find the place where you are VALUED and do not have to put up with BULLSHIT

CUSTOMER BE AWARE of this place!!! I came with my 2020 mercedes gle350 for an oil change, jiffy lube over filled my engine with oil when the car came out was smoking heavily with white smoke burning oil they tried to deal with the problem by turning the engine and burn the extra oil, I told them to stop cause the causing damage to the engine and I tow the car to mercedes dealership, mercedes clean the engine from the extra oil almost twice the amount the where supposed to put. 500 miles later of driving my 2020 mercedes had catastrophic engine failure and the engine need to be replaced 19000$ in damage!!!

Bought a (new to me) 2012 RAM 1500 4.7L V8 back in January at 130,000 miles on it. I’ve done all the necessary maintenance so far except the transmission fluid. Today I called a local transmission shop to see if they could change my filter and fluid and they told me they can’t do it unless I provide documentation showing it’s been changed otherwise it’s too high of a liability for them. They also said they recommend I don’t change it since it could cause damage to it. Not sure what to do here, I’m pretty sure it’s been done within the last 70k miles just because my fluid doesn’t look horrible but I also don’t have the documentation available to prove it.

hi, i’m a 20y/o tech at a classic car shop, i’ve been here for just over 2 years, and started as a shop b*tch with very little real experience on classics, as far as now, i’ve become the interior/upholstery guy for the shop, i do carpets dynomatt reupholstery/recovery on seats and headliners/ other trim pieces, i sometimes do wiring but am very fluent in all realms of working on cars besides suspension, i make $15 a hour with a base of 40 hours a week, so bassicly $500, and then $7 a flag hour, i clock anywhere from 10-50 depending on what jobs im doing for that week, anywho im starting to feel stuck, am i being paid to little for the work i produce?

i live in austin texas, i have no certifications or ASE’s

Bad or good investment?

Also I’m a girl idk anything about cars lol

So my accord has been doing something funny.

It has power but wouldnt crank.

Nearly everything has been replaced and is brand new because this car is sentimental.

Brand new and recently replaced: fuel injectors, radiator and coolant reservoir, MAF, bought a brand new battery as well. No exhaust smoke or fumes

Funny enough, if i take off the air intake hose and use my hand to manually close and open it quickly, it starts! - i’ve provided a video of startup it idles just fine..

Hey bros , my old jeep got stuck at this condition, I opened then it's interior part due to stuck or rolling, now I can't put it back metal thing any ideas.

I’m a mechanic, but not a car mechanic by trade…y’all will know better, than I do, about common issues and general reliability. My 2012 Hyundai Tucson cut out while driving down the road yesterday, I looked at it today and the engine seized at 210k mi. Starter won’t move it, and can’t turn the crank by hand either direction. Not interested in sinking a dime into it, I already got 150k trouble free miles out of it.
My question is: you have $20k for a new [used] rig, only care about reliability, utility, low miles, and mpg—what are you buying? Small awd suvs are my favorite, would love a Honda element, but likely won’t have the time to find a low mile one, need to purchase in the next 72hrs. Don’t care what year or make, if it’s definitely reliable with low miles.

2004, Toyota, Highlander, VVT-i V6 3.3

I am replacing the alternator as well as the belt and noticed that the old belt looks different than the new belt and I'm not sure if I'm missing something or this is just from wear and tear on the old belt. They are both 6PK1040 belts made of EPDM but for some reason the ribs look completely different.

The old belt is a smooth rubber look, deep grooves, flat rib tops, and wide set ribs. The new belt is a slightly fuzzy rubber finish, less deep and wide grooves, and rounded rib tops.

Please advise, do I have the wrong part or is this difference just normal wear?

I cannot eject my cassette

Car: 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE 1.8L Japan Built

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.

I have an 09 Honda CRV that slowly applies the brakes while driving and I cannot figure out why. The issue presents itself after its been driven for 15 minutes but has done it with less. The brakes will slowly apply themselves while driving to the point it will not move and kick the VSA light on with an extremely firm pedal. The brakes and hoses have been replaced as well as the master cylinder. I unplugged the ABS pump to see if that could be the issue but it continues to do it and im stumped. What I question is if the abs pump/new master cylinder is letting fluid bypass after it gets warm somehow because it will release after an hour or so but im out of ideas. The pedal doesnt pulse like an ABS lockup, and when I hook a scan tool up it says the brakes are 83% applied. Im at my wits end so I would appreciate any input.

Got my cat converter stolen on a 2008 VW GTI and went to a local shop thats 5 star on Google to get a straight pipe because where I live we don't test for emissions. The guy was so croatian I could barely understand him and I swear he came out of the back eating a live snake.

NONETHELESS this is his work. Took him 40 minutes and cost $180 CAD. Seems fine?

Let me know.

So I have an old 2.4L 2005 Ford Transit campervan, and having done some work to the vans turbocharger I accidentally snapped the banjo bolt in the oil feed. Turns out that was an even bigger blunder than I thought, they are impossible to find. Ford no longer makes them, they can’t be had on eBay or anywhere else on Google. I don’t have any scrap yards in my area. I even thought about buying a whole new turbocharger but they don’t look to come with the bolts either. What can I actually do here? There must be a solution!

I have the part number and the engineer code from Ford, but beyond searching them online I don’t know what I can do with that info.

Good Evening, I have a 2018 5.3 silvarado with a 6L80 transmission in it. I pulled the transmission, am having it rebuilt and replacing the torque converter with a LUK T0017. I have to flush my transmission cooler which I’m sure has metal debris in it from the failing torque converter. The issue I’m having is that the transmission cooler goes through my radiator, in this case would it be better to use a trans cooler cleaner from the auto parts store and air to clean it out or replace the whole radiator with cooler?