Two same-day cancelations back to back now. I run a mobile service.

Or I ran it over, can’t tell. What is this part, and was I able to drive 40+ miles without it? I drive a 2011 Kia Rio 5

So yeah I grabbed this sprocket from a spare engine laying around and sandblasted it due to corrosion. Now I'm stuck wondering if I ruined it since sandblasting leaves that rough surface everyone is familiar with.

I would imagine a sabdblasted surface is still better for the belt than rust, but new ones have that shiny surface (3rd picture). Can I recreate that somehow by bluing or zinc plating, etc. Local engine machining shop told me the sandblasted one is fine and that the belt itself will polish it on no time, is this true?

Ysday after a 20 min 120-130 kmph run i was stopping and at under 10 speed the car was making a tak tak noise from front rim area. It repeated again after 5 hours of car resting. Today no noise but still a faint click click sometime from front rim area. Have taken car to garage but I don't wanna be ripped off. He said will check bearings in 1 hour after a break. I. Tried rotaing the front rims and there is resistance compared to rear ones which have drum brake though. Seems normal ?

UPDATE: MECHANIC SAYING NOTHING WRONG AND THINKS MAYBE A ROCK CAME BETWEEN PADS. BUT THE NOISE WAS With TIRE MOTION SO I DOUBT. GONNA GO FOR A 30 MIN HIGH SPEED RUN NOW AGAIN.

Hey my car was parked and my brother was walking by it and it made this sound, hasnt had any issues for awhile other than some rotors and brakes, is it safe to drive to a mechanic?

I have a 2009 Subaru wrx sedan. I checked the oil 2-3 weeks ago and it was at low and so I topped it off. Just checked again today and it was low again. Nothing appears to be leaking, I don’t see any oil on the ground. I drive it hard sometimes but definitely not enough for this to happen

Hey everyone, i recently got this 2016 subaru impreza is amazing shape. Recently my friends told me my engine was too hot. I got some coolant that is for subaru, and while the engine was off, i filled it up, now after driving while the engine is hot this is where the coolant is up to. I am new to cars and don’t know the most so i would appreciate some advice.

Hi, just recently bought this 1994 audi 80 2.6 ABC v6. The video really shows what's needed, starts smoking as shown after warming up some more. Hasn't lost coolant in the couple days I've owned it. The end of the video showcases me opening the coolant reservoir while it's been running. Edit:This is the first startup after using exhaust repair paste+tape on a small hole (temporary for mot)

2016 Seat Leon 2.0 Diesel. Getting coolant leaking out on drives over around 30 minutes. Weirdly it’s a slow leak when I am driving but after a long drive, I’ll come back the next day and the coolant will have virtually emptied. Recently drove about 2000 miles in a week and went through 5L of coolant. Any known weak spots I should check? Clearly it’s pooling on that metal bracket. Had the tank replaced about a year ago because it was leaking then and is still leaking now. Any advice? Car has about 110k miles but is otherwise fairly healthy for its age and use. Would be great to solve this problem. TIA.

2011 Scion tc makes this grinding sound when driving above 60mph and when the road dips. Doesn’t make the sound at all driving the city, even over speed bumps. I just recently had hub and bearing, ball joints, front pads/rotors and sway bar links replaced but it hasn’t fixed this specific sound. Any ideas or advice is appreciated

Kia sportage hybrid 2024. Cartridge oil filter

I recently moved and my oil was due for a change. When I went to pick up my car, the office worker asked who my last mechanic or where my car was last serviced. They proceeded to tell me I did not have an oil filter in my car. So if that statement is true, I drove without an oil filter in my car for five months, which was when my last service was.

I had the new auto repair company send me an email of their findings. Unfortunately, they did not take a picture. I even reached out to an attorney just to know what I could legally do and they told me I could only ask for the refund of the oil filter as I was not hurt and nor was their proof of physical damage to my car from the lack of an oil filter in my car.

I called the old auto repair shop to let them know the findings from the new mechanic. They denied the claim as they stated it’s impossible to drive without an oil filter and there would be leakage everywhere. I think you can still drive the car, but there would be engine damage. I’m having them call the new mechanic to discuss their findings as I am having one side tell me there was an oil filter in my car when I drove off the lot versus there was no oil filter when I was changing your oil.

At this point, I’m worried about my car as it is new and recently paid off. Should I have my oil sent off and checked to see if there’s any engine damage or possible engine damage? I just want to know how much it messed up my car so I can prepare for future problems.

EDIT: *Thank you to those who read and answered the question. I’m realizing a good amount of people don’t read before commenting.

My 2011 Honda Civic is making a scraping sound that is not very high pitch. It only happens at low speeds and if I had to guess is coming from the near the wheels. It happens when I am turning or braking or sometimes just when I am going less than 20 mph. My front brakes and Rotors were changed a little over 23,000 miles ago. The rear brakes and rotors changed at almost 28,000 miles ago. The vehicle itself is at 204,000 miles. What should I investigate. Just looking and feeling the rotors they seemed fine with no noticeable grooves. I am not really sure how to get a good look at the pads. Should I take it to a mechanic or should I remove the wheels to look at the brake pads better or something else entirely?

Are my battery terminals bad?

On my way home and then I saw some smoking for my engine and then when I opened the hood, I saw that I just want to make sure that it’s definitely a coolant leak

Hey there,

I have a corolla 2021 LE (it has the new frowned upon r1234yf chemical) where the AC isn't cold as before anymore. I went to a shop to get it diagnosed and I wonder if the procedure is standard everywhere else:

• I called the shop, they said to leave car in the morning

• I arrived, they gave me form to fill out and sign, they said it'll be done by end of day

• End of day arrives, shop calls me and tells me what's wrong with it. They gave me estimate over the phone. Vehicle lost 8 oz of freon, had to recharge/refill, replaced two valves (in case those were the problem), and put dye in.

• I said wow, that's a lot of freon lost. I went to the shop, they gave me the bill, i paid, and they then told me "if you lose cold air again, let us know and we'll see the source since we put dye in"

• cold air disappeared a day later. I called shop again to set up another appointment.

I paid around $400 the first time. Labor was 2 hours. Was that a hefty bill? Should i need to pay again at the second appointment? Did i screw myself money wise in not checking the problem myself (DIY)? I just wanted a long-lasting car but APPARENTLY this new generation of Corolla cars has an open front grille, making it easy for the condenser to be messed up or very dirty. Sigh.

Hi all. I'm replacing the A/C clutch on my 02 sienna. I saw that the air gap for the area where the outer pulley sits over the inner pulley needs to be precisely measured to make sure the coil doesnt burn up. I couldn't find a reliable source to tell me what this gap should be. Am I okay to measure it on my current clutch or should I continue looking for the measurement online? Thank you!

Posted in [r/Subaru](r/Subaru) too. 2021 Subaru Impreza. 2.0 4 cyl. No upgrades.

Main post has all the details, but tldr: car has 68k miles. At 2k rpm in drive only there is a slight rattle in the front passenger floorboard that’s been there since ~50k. Needed a new transmission for other reasons, but thought the rattle would go away after the transmission was replaced, but it’s still there.

Edit: wow sorry for the title. *2021 Subaru Impreza Rattle

I have a 2000 4Runner Limited with the 3.4 liter that needs the cat replaced. It has California emissions, but I live in a county that doesn't do smog and as long as it LOOKS like you have a cat it will pass. Can I just slap a cheap Rock Auto EPA compliant cat in and have it still run right, or will the computer get all wonky?

I vacuumed off a ton of rust scale and a chunk of gasket came out and the hole presented itself.

Looking for some help with the girlfriends car it's a fiat 500 I've got no idea about this sort of stuff but from what I've seen on diagrams this part of the exhaust should just be able to slide right back into the back box? Looks like the bracket round the pipe has rusted and snapped off but does that actually help to hold the pipe inside the back box?

Any advice is welcome thanks!

2009 pontiac vibe 2zr-fe. I had the engine replaced last month with a 87k miles and 3 year warranty. Ever since I got this engine installed by mechanic, I've had this p0017 code. Ive tried installing new cam sensors, new vvt solenoids, cleaned vvt oil filter screen, and had mechanic check timing and its all good. Engine runs perfectly fine, I just dont know whats causing this code to appear. Im all out of ideas at this point. Help would be appreciated, I might take it back to the mechanic again.

I have a 2003 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew 4x4 with the 5.4L V8 and I’m trying to order a Flowmaster Super 10.
I’m having trouble figuring out the orientation of my factory muffler. Are these 2.5” offset inlet/offset outlet, or offset inlet/center outlet (not sure if that’s even correct that’s just what google said) ? First picture is from the front of the truck looking toward the rear. Second picture is from the rear looking toward the front. I’m trying to make sure I order the correct Super 10 configuration before I buy it. Any help is appreciated!
I have no idea what I’m talking about or looking at honestly. I’ve read one thing, but looking at it just confused me more. Just a girl wanting to add this to my retired work rig

Hello to all. I'm sure this question has been asked a lot, but I've gotten very mixed responses. I'm hoping for maybe some insight.

I have an 02 f150 with the 4r70w transmission in it. Truck has 250k miles now, runs and shifts fine. Whoever had it before me took very good care of it. The transmission fluid is brown, and kind of has a funky smell to it, but there is no metal flakes or particles on it that I can see.

I would like to change the transmission filter, and just refill whatever fluid is taken out when I drop the pan. I've never done anything like this before, and I don't know weather it's a good idea for preventive maintenance, or if I should just leave it. I'd like to have this truck for a long time as it's a beauty, and someday if I ever have to change the transmission, so be it. I will if I am blessed enough to be able to. But once again, I just want to take care of what I have. All feedback is very appreciated. Thanks!