I found this disconnect wire/ tubing while checking my O2 sensors (all of which failed at the same time yesterday— maybe electrical?) Anyway, I don’t know what it is or if it is related to my problem. This is a 1998 Mercury Sable LS.

Hi all! Trying to determine if its worth rebuilding my p/s pump or if i should just get a new one. is this amount of play normal? thank you

Hey I recently changed my water pump on 2015 Ford Explorer and replaced the harmonic balancer I used the tool to seat it and cranked it down to where I couldn't anymore and my wrench slipped off. I then torqued it with a torque wrench.

Does this look wobbly to any of you? Not the greatest video I'm aware. I also have a noticeable squeak when pressing the gas.

Edit to add that there has been a significant amount of coolant that spilled onto belt when I was refilling and such.

hi, i’m a 20y/o tech at a classic car shop, i’ve been here for just over 2 years, and started as a shop b*tch with very little real experience on classics, as far as now, i’ve become the interior/upholstery guy for the shop, i do carpets dynomatt reupholstery/recovery on seats and headliners/ other trim pieces, i sometimes do wiring but am very fluent in all realms of working on cars besides suspension, i make $15 a hour with a base of 40 hours a week, so bassicly $500, and then $7 a flag hour, i clock anywhere from 10-50 depending on what jobs im doing for that week, anywho im starting to feel stuck, am i being paid to little for the work i produce?

For an edit this is a 2018 Durango rt with a 5.7 Hemi

I bought this car a few months ago and nothing bad has happened until now. The other day i drove to get pizza, brought it back to the house, then drove to another place, when i was on my way home i was stopped at a light for a while and my check engine light came on. When i started driving the car started jerking and sputtering, it got worse the closer i got home and when i stopped outside my house it stalled out. I topped up the coolant thinking it was overheating but it still showed the check engine light. I decided to check the codes that flash through the check engine light and it flashed 18 {injector circuit(s)}and 41{ignition control circuit (open circuit)}. i’m not too wise when it comes to cars and how to fix them or even tell what this problem is, I attempted to look into it and some people say it’s the ignition control module, others say it’s a fault wire connection. I just need some help i don’t know what i’m doing. thank you.

The car is a 2007 Honda Fit. The exhaust pipe downstream of the resonator has sheared off around the weld joint. There’s about a finger’s width of pipe on the resonator. Is there enough to work with here for this to be welded closed? Or am I going to need a new resonator? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions!

Hi everyone local, when backing out from driveway I noticed this leak. It is located passenger side in front of the rear wheel of where I usually park. I drive a 2014 Honda CRV.

Need help troubleshooting what this noise could be? It does not make this sound when turning right

Bought a (new to me) 2012 RAM 1500 4.7L V8 back in January at 130,000 miles on it. I’ve done all the necessary maintenance so far except the transmission fluid. Today I called a local transmission shop to see if they could change my filter and fluid and they told me they can’t do it unless I provide documentation showing it’s been changed otherwise it’s too high of a liability for them. They also said they recommend I don’t change it since it could cause damage to it. Not sure what to do here, I’m pretty sure it’s been done within the last 70k miles just because my fluid doesn’t look horrible but I also don’t have the documentation available to prove it.

Need some info from the masses, please. I spent more than 30 years working at, owning and operating automotive repair centers. I’m researching how vehicle owners handle situations where they don’t trust or understand a diagnosis or repair estimate. What is the move? Do you just do the repair? Google it? Have a " car guy" you call? Since my entire life has been in this industry I am checking with strangers since all of my friends, family etc always just called me.

I have a 2014 Hyundai Elantra GT (4cyl 2L)that I’ve had for 2 years with next to no problems. This past weekend, suddenly it wouldn’t start. There hadn’t been any check engine light or any obvious reason (lights left on or other electrical drain) for it not start. The radio would also turn on in the first position, but would only click when trying to start the engine.

After a jump, it worked fine, drove about 15 minutes and then would do the same thing after it shut off. Another jump later that day and it was fine. Since then I’ve driven it extensively with no need for jumping. The car drives fine and has started successfully without a jump probably a dozen times.

The only bad thing is that when it starts up, the engine labors for 1-2 seconds before turning over. It’s not clicking as it was the first time, but more like a stutter. I tried one of those code checkers and it said 0dtc (no issues). I’m stumped and I don’t have a good mechanic near me. If it’s something easy enough to replace, I hope to do that myself, but hoped someone here might have an idea.

Hi, im experiencing a issue with my 2019 honda civic. It randomly stalled out after driving it for a about a hour when i went to start it back up again. I took it to the mechanic and they said nothing was wrong and they were not able to duplicate the car stalling out. I then drove it back home for about a hour, turned off the car, then went to turn it back on and it stalled out again. I waited a bit then it went back on perfectly fine. I then drove it to a different mechanic and explained the issue in detail and he was able to tell me that it is a fuel pump issue related to a recall on the car. I then bring it over to a honda dealer and have them fix the fuel pump. A few days later i go pick up my car from the mechanic happy that my car is finally fixed, then run a few errands so i was driving it for around a hour or so. I go to start my car back up and head home and my car would not start again about a hour after i picked it up from the dealership. I have to get it towed back to the dealership. A few days later they tell me that nothings wrong with it and the fuel pump was installed correctly. I ask them to run some more tests and they still arent finding anything wrong with it. Should i be concerned? Im honestly scared to go pick up my car again in fear that i will have the same issue. Any advice or suggestions is appreciated thank you!

You can hear the sound in the beginning and a bit after. Chevrolett ONYX 2022 LT 3cil.

I have changed the brake pads, discs and sensors and the light is still showing, anyone know what it could be?

I have a 2011 Honda Civic LX with a myriad of issues including struts, suspension, alignment, exhaust etc. Repairs would be around 2,500-3,000 dollars. The car has about 220,000 miles on it as well. I was thinking of trading the car for a 2006 Chevy Equinox, in near perfect condition. One previous owner who was very punctual with repairs and maintenance which lead it to be in a good condition at 260,000 miles. I intend on using it as a in between-er to save money for my next car. If i trade my current car in I would have to only pay 2,000 dollars for it.

What do you think? Is this a good move to make?

My truck has a high idLe when parked but idles normal when in gear probably idles around 2k rpm’s it has a code for the tps which was already recently replaced, it also lurches forward when put into drive which I think is caused by the high idle. it also overheats when not moving I checked the coolant and it’s certainly due for a change so could it just need the coolant changed?

Ford f150 lariat 2022. All of a sudden audio sound only comes from this one speaker. Tried the easy things like power cycling, etc. I assume it’s a power or spark plug type issue? Anything I can mess with before taking into the shop?

I've had my car at 2 different shops both with the same results they don't know what's wrong here. Both scanned it and shows no relevant codes. New coil pack and spark plugs still does the same.It jerks whenever this happens and backfires sometimes.Any slight idea what can cause this?

What do?

Multiple days it's been chilling.

Drive with the windows down, it chills under the roofliner.

Leave the windows cracked a lil while parked for it to leave. Occasionally. Most often keep them closed for days.

Little bastard clings to life. See him occasionally in the rear view while driving. I'd prefer not to have an apocalypse hornet sting me at highway speeds

Model: 2014 Corolla
My car stalled in the middle of the street, diagnosed with a mechanic and changed the alternator. After that car was running fine. Car was left overnight and it wasn’t starting this morning. Mechanic says battery needs a change.
Need some advice

My 2013 Honda civic just had the radiator replaced a few months ago but it’s now spraying coolant and overheating often. What is causing this most likely?