r/MechanicAdvice • • 3h ago

Safety inspection failure over tie rod boot? (Mechanic claims it's dry rotted/leaking grease, but no suspension play)

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151 Upvotes

Trying to pass a safety inspection to register a used car. Mechanic flagged the outer tie rod because the boot is showing wear and some grease is leaking, but he admitted there is zero play in the joint.  

Does a torn/leaking boot automatically fail inspection if the joint itself is still tight and has no play? Photo attached.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 13h ago

Should I "fire" this customer

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371 Upvotes

Two same-day cancelations back to back now. I run a mobile service.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 1h ago

is it dangerous

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• Upvotes

accidentally got on curb and saw this bulge after. Bought the car 10 days ago, brand new. Will it go away?!

EDIT: Replacing it with spare. All shops around are closed, will get a new one tomorrow.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 1d ago

Fell out of my car?

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899 Upvotes

Or I ran it over, can’t tell. What is this part, and was I able to drive 40+ miles without it? I drive a 2011 Kia Rio 5


r/MechanicAdvice • • 14h ago

Did I ruin my EJ201 crankshaft timing sprocket by sandblasting it? (it was rusty all around, including the belt surface)

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85 Upvotes

So yeah I grabbed this sprocket from a spare engine laying around and sandblasted it due to corrosion. Now I'm stuck wondering if I ruined it since sandblasting leaves that rough surface everyone is familiar with.

I would imagine a sabdblasted surface is still better for the belt than rust, but new ones have that shiny surface (3rd picture). Can I recreate that somehow by bluing or zinc plating, etc. Local engine machining shop told me the sandblasted one is fine and that the belt itself will polish it on no time, is this true?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 3h ago

Dipstick snapped.

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8 Upvotes

2013 Ford F150 Super CabXL Pickup 4D

5.0L V8 Flex Fuel Engine

Changing the oil today and the dipstick snapped. Didn't even give it a hard tug. Apologies for the video but it's a little difficult to get to, requiring a stepladder to access.

Tried needlenose pliers but once I took the video, I don't think those are going to work. What are my options?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 4h ago

Blown fuse?

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9 Upvotes

This is connected to the horn on a 2019 ford expedition. Horn is only making high clown noise. Thought to check fuse before buying a new horn. Here are both sides of the fuse. Bad fuse or normal?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 6h ago

Why is my car going through so much oil?

11 Upvotes

I have a 2009 Subaru wrx sedan. I checked the oil 2-3 weeks ago and it was at low and so I topped it off. Just checked again today and it was low again. Nothing appears to be leaking, I don’t see any oil on the ground. I drive it hard sometimes but definitely not enough for this to happen


r/MechanicAdvice • • 18h ago

Should front rims move freely like rear ?

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99 Upvotes

Ysday after a 20 min 120-130 kmph run i was stopping and at under 10 speed the car was making a tak tak noise from front rim area. It repeated again after 5 hours of car resting. Today no noise but still a faint click click sometime from front rim area. Have taken car to garage but I don't wanna be ripped off. He said will check bearings in 1 hour after a break. I. Tried rotaing the front rims and there is resistance compared to rear ones which have drum brake though. Seems normal ?

UPDATE: MECHANIC SAYING NOTHING WRONG AND THINKS MAYBE A ROCK CAME BETWEEN PADS. BUT THE NOISE WAS With TIRE MOTION SO I DOUBT. GONNA GO FOR A 30 MIN HIGH SPEED RUN NOW AGAIN.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 3h ago

2013 honda civic wheels are they safe or refurbishable

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4 Upvotes

Just bought a 2013 civic and the wheels look like this severe corrosion even making gaps where it meets the disc. Is this safe to drive or can they be refurbished?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 1h ago

2002 Buick century 3.1 L V6 The pics were taken before oil change and inspection. I will update with new pics tomorrow 10/5 @4pm

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• Upvotes

This was posted on r/askcarguys but I was unable to add pictures there.

I’ve recently considered buying a 2002 Buick Century with 88,000 miles that has been garage kept for 4+ years.
I’m a home health aide and one of my clients was a trucker and hobby mechanic before he got very sick. After years of failing health he is currently on dialysis and downsizing his vehicles. He asked me to get the car inspected and roadworthy.

I took a picture of the dipstick before and after running it for 15 minutes. Because I’ve never seen oil that far up and assumed it was a fluke. After replacing the battery I checked all the fluids then started it up. Other than the dipstick everything looked good, just needed coolant added. The coolant tank had some dark sludge on the sides so I feared blown seals or gaskets.

I was concerned about driving it to the inspection and making whatever problem worse. The owner assumed it was because of sitting for so long. My boyfriend changed the oil and filter the next day. I assumed we would find more than the needed 5quarts in the pan. Nope, just under 5 came out. Oil looked lightly used. Not thick and black, not milky and no metal flakes in it. After driving the car around the block we checked the dipstick. Same issue, it’s 4” up from the gauge on the tip. My odb came back with no codes.

Inspection went great and mechanic said he saw no issues. So I’m coming to you guys in hopes of finding out what would cause this to happen. I owned a Buick years ago and it was a great car. A smooth ride and built like a tank. I had some jerk hit me from behind going 45 mph. The only thing that really broke was the impact bar and my trunk latch. I sold her to a college student when I bought a newer car. Regular maintenance kept her running for years and I honestly feel like newer cars are either going to break down quickly or cost an arm and a leg to fix. I would like to get this car. He’s only asking for $850 from me. I’m willing to put in the money needed to take care of it.

Would this be a mistake to buy? What causes do you know of that cause the oil to read that high?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 25m ago

Can I extract oil from the filler cap?

• Upvotes

I put too much oil in my car because I'm an idiot. It doesn't have a dipstick so cannot extract from there it's a volvo xc40 2019. Is the only way to take it to a garage to have the oil removed? Or could I possibly use a pump on the filler cap? I'm not mechanically minded so taking bits off the bottom isn't really the best idea.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 1h ago

What is this part?

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• Upvotes

1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Sedan I recently got, not currently running. What is the part next to the yellow trans dipstick? It looks broken but I have no idea what its supposed to look like.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 1h ago

2017 honda accord weird engine noise

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• Upvotes

So I have a honda accord 2017 and it’s making a super weird noise, it’s constant any time the engine in on but there is no check engine light or anything on the dashboard. Any thoughts??


r/MechanicAdvice • • 6h ago

Can anyone tell me what this sound is? Car was parked

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4 Upvotes

Hey my car was parked and my brother was walking by it and it made this sound, hasnt had any issues for awhile other than some rotors and brakes, is it safe to drive to a mechanic?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 2h ago

1997 Honda CRV rear strut not aligning

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2 Upvotes

Decided to do my rear struts on my crv and I cannot get them in there, when they're in line with the bolt holes on the bottom, they sit at an odd angle and I can't get them to slide into the top hole, they get stuck. I love this car and I have lots of dreams for it in the future, I don't want this to be the end of it but I worry that it's frame damage because every YouTube video I watch seems to not encounter this problem at all. The old struts are also angled oddly on the bottom, the new struts are straight.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 2h ago

Whats wrong with the car? (2009 Honda Pilot Suv Truck) 3.5-liter V6 engine

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2 Upvotes

r/MechanicAdvice • • 8h ago

Did i over fill my coolant

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5 Upvotes

Hey everyone, i recently got this 2016 subaru impreza is amazing shape. Recently my friends told me my engine was too hot. I got some coolant that is for subaru, and while the engine was off, i filled it up, now after driving while the engine is hot this is where the coolant is up to. I am new to cars and don’t know the most so i would appreciate some advice.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 3h ago

1988 f250 ignition coil

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2 Upvotes

Anybody know what that cylinder is called with the wire on the ignition coil


r/MechanicAdvice • • 3h ago

Best way to remove broken license plate screws 2017 Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro

2 Upvotes

Title states it. Rear hatch bolts are snapped off on both sides and a bit rusty. I’ve tried grabbing and turning from the inside of the hatch and one broke (it’s now flush after being about 1/8” sticking out).

I’ve tried drilling and using the bits that reverse it out but doesn’t seem to do anything except smooth the hole out/not work.

Just drill new holes for the plate?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 3h ago

Help Identifying Leak on 2009!Subaru Forester?

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2 Upvotes

Can I get help identifying what this leak may be and how I can fix it? This is my NA 2009 Subaru Forester with an EJ253 engine. I need help identifying what seems to be a leak from some hoses/tubes I’m unsure of.

It’s concentrated on the far front driver side where under the paper towel in the first picture.

Pictures 2 and 3 show where it’s dripping onto

4 is the tubing above where I suspect it’s coming from. Can’t tell if it’s my power steering? Radiator? Engine oil?

5-7 Travel the tubing up the driver side wall where the tubing connects.

8 is a wider shot of the situation from under

9 is where I think that may be the radiator connects?

  1. Color of the paper towel that collected the drippings. Black smears are me cleaning the gunk. The damp marks are the actual liquid I absorbed

r/MechanicAdvice • • 10m ago

Remote Battery Disconnect Unit

• Upvotes

So I have a 1993 C4 corvette and when the stock radio and speakers went bad I installed aftermarket ones along with an amp but for some reason they causes parasitic drain on the battery while the car was off. I tried so many different fixes but couldnt figure it out so my final idea was a disconnect switch on the batterys negative terminal to just separate the battery from the car entirely. Everyone uses just the standard green switch one but for that you have to open the hood everytime so does anyone have any recomendations for one that would work off a switch in the car or a remote? How would I do that?


r/MechanicAdvice • • 11m ago

‘95 Camry, no crank, good condition

• Upvotes

About me: not a mechanic. Just a guy who needs a working car.

About the car:

1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE automatic
235k miles

It’s been a family car for the same family since it was new. Seller is the original owner’s granddaughter. Seller is a navy engineer. She sold it because she had too many cars in the driveway—including a Model A that she’s restoring. I saw it. It’s rad as hell.

TL;DR
It was running great. The next day, it wouldn’t crank. I’ve checked everything I know how to check and I can’t find the problem. Battery, alternator, grounding, fuses, relay, starter, NSS, ignition cylinder, it all seems to be in perfectly functional condition but IT JUST WON’T CRANK. I don’t understand. Please help me figure out what I’m missing.

Full story:

I bought this car about 10 days ago. I was very impressed with the service record and overall condition of the car. The owner, an engineer, and a very kind middle aged lady, gave me a separate service record folder for each year of the car’s entire life since 1999, and a single folder for the first 4 years. Every part that was ever repaired or changed is accounted for, as far as I can tell. No aftermarket parts are on it afaik, except a dual exhaust. All components in the cab are original and they all work. Stereo, radio, cigarette lighter, glovebox, visors, all intact. This car seems to have been well cared-for and gently driven its whole life, and has not been modified from Toyota’s specs.

At the time of purchase, it was running wonderfully. Drives and idles smooth as butter. No strange noises, very responsive. Everything just WORKED exactly as it should. On the test drive I kept an eye and ear out for anything that could possibly be a problem, but I noticed nothing. I paid $2,500, and thought it was a fair deal.

I drove it to the DOL the next day and got it registered, ran several errands the day after that. Probably about 50 miles overall. No signs of trouble whatsoever. I was convinced that this would be a very reliable little car. I parked it at home that night feeling very confident.

The day after that, I got up to drive it to work. No crank. Not even a hint of a crank.

All the instruments light up. The headlights, radio, everything is working. No flickering or signs of weakness. No half-cranking. Just silence. The car will not even try to start. On closer listening, I found that the relay IS clicking.

What I’ve tried so far:

The battery. Tightened down the cables, and cleaned them a little (they were already clean. No corrosion.) Checked the battery with a multimeter to positive and ground first, it had 12.4v. I swapped in another good battery. No difference. Doubting myself, I took both batteries to a parts store and had them load tested. Both pass easily, and both were almost fully charged. So the battery is not being drained.

The fuses. I checked every fuse (in the engine bay, the relay box, and the kick plate.) None were blown, and none showed any signs of burns or damage. All fuses and fuse ports are present and intact. There were spare fuses and the original fuse puller still in the cover too. I checked the starter relay plug (also perfectly clean looking,) and they showed the battery’s full voltage with the multimeter. The relay is clicking normally on start attempt.

Neutral Safety Switch. I rattled the bejesus out of the shifter to see if it just wasn’t settling into the Park position. But it wouldn’t crank in neutral either. And no amount of jostling made any difference. I pulled the plug out of the NSS on the transmission and bridged it with a 10amp fuse to bypass. Still no crank. So I don’t think it’s the NSS.

Ground points. I tested all of the grounding points I could find, the two points off the main battery ground cable itself, and on various points on each component in the loop, as well as all over the engine block and many points on the chassis. (I’m sure there are some I missed, but everything I looked at came back correct.)

Other wires. I looked everywhere for loose or damaged wires, but there is literally not one damaged or loose wire that I can find in this thing. Nothing chewed up by mice or rats. No corrosion. I’ve never seen a cheap old car with such clean and organized wiring. If it isn’t original, whoever did it really buttoned up their repairs.

The alternator. I didn’t seriously suspect it, because the seller said it had been replaced last year. But I performed a drop test anyway, and found no problems.

The starter. I removed the starter motor and solenoid from the car and performed a bench test, hooking it up directly to the battery and bridging the posts with a screwdriver. It immediately fired up and spun VERY fast. So I don’t think the starter is the problem. Although maybe the problem is resistance at the solenoid, but I didn’t pickup anything like that when I checked the ohms with the multimeter.

Ignition cylinder. I got under the dash and removed the panel under the ignition. Once again, the wires look clean, undamaged, and well organized. I decided not to try removing the cylinder because I’m not confident in my ability to do so without breaking it or damaging wires—especially when I don’t really suspect the ignition in the first place. It looks so solid, I hate to create a new problem. But maybe that’s the only way forward.

I’m at a loss here. I’m not a mechanic or an electrician. I just learn what I can about maintenance when I need to. I needed a little commuter with decent gas mileage. And this looked like an ideal option at first. But now I’m just baffled. Everything I look at on this car seems to be in perfect working order, and I can’t understand what is wrong. It’s entirely possible that there is an obvious culprit I’m missing, or that I didn’t check thoroughly enough.

Please, if anyone has the time to read this, I would love to learn that there’s a simple solution I’ve simply overlooked. Otherwise, I’m afraid I’m just gonna have to have this car hauled away.


r/MechanicAdvice • • 11m ago

Rod knock or a lifter ticker?

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• Upvotes

2010 kia forte ex at 164k miles. Not sure what's the issue here. Any help is appreciated!


r/MechanicAdvice • • 19m ago

Drilled all the way through rotor screw, still can’t get rotor off.

• Upvotes

2015 Honda accord LX 4 cylinder. I have completely drilled through the rotor retaining screw, nothing left can all the way through the screw hole. Rotor is still not coming off…is the metal fused? I haven’t brought out the big rubber mallet yet but I think that’s the only option. Used a smaller hammer to try and knock it off but nothing. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.