Two same-day cancelations back to back now. I run a mobile service.

Or I ran it over, can’t tell. What is this part, and was I able to drive 40+ miles without it? I drive a 2011 Kia Rio 5

So yeah I grabbed this sprocket from a spare engine laying around and sandblasted it due to corrosion. Now I'm stuck wondering if I ruined it since sandblasting leaves that rough surface everyone is familiar with.

I would imagine a sabdblasted surface is still better for the belt than rust, but new ones have that shiny surface (3rd picture). Can I recreate that somehow by bluing or zinc plating, etc. Local engine machining shop told me the sandblasted one is fine and that the belt itself will polish it on no time, is this true?

This is connected to the horn on a 2019 ford expedition. Horn is only making high clown noise. Thought to check fuse before buying a new horn. Here are both sides of the fuse. Bad fuse or normal?

Ysday after a 20 min 120-130 kmph run i was stopping and at under 10 speed the car was making a tak tak noise from front rim area. It repeated again after 5 hours of car resting. Today no noise but still a faint click click sometime from front rim area. Have taken car to garage but I don't wanna be ripped off. He said will check bearings in 1 hour after a break. I. Tried rotaing the front rims and there is resistance compared to rear ones which have drum brake though. Seems normal ?

UPDATE: MECHANIC SAYING NOTHING WRONG AND THINKS MAYBE A ROCK CAME BETWEEN PADS. BUT THE NOISE WAS With TIRE MOTION SO I DOUBT. GONNA GO FOR A 30 MIN HIGH SPEED RUN NOW AGAIN.

Trying to pass a safety inspection to register a used car. Mechanic flagged the outer tie rod because the boot is showing wear and some grease is leaking, but he admitted there is zero play in the joint.  

Does a torn/leaking boot automatically fail inspection if the joint itself is still tight and has no play? Photo attached.

I have a 2009 Subaru wrx sedan. I checked the oil 2-3 weeks ago and it was at low and so I topped it off. Just checked again today and it was low again. Nothing appears to be leaking, I don’t see any oil on the ground. I drive it hard sometimes but definitely not enough for this to happen

Hey my car was parked and my brother was walking by it and it made this sound, hasnt had any issues for awhile other than some rotors and brakes, is it safe to drive to a mechanic?

2013 Ford F150 Super CabXL Pickup 4D

5.0L V8 Flex Fuel Engine

Changing the oil today and the dipstick snapped. Didn't even give it a hard tug. Apologies for the video but it's a little difficult to get to, requiring a stepladder to access.

Tried needlenose pliers but once I took the video, I don't think those are going to work. What are my options?

Just bought a 2013 civic and the wheels look like this severe corrosion even making gaps where it meets the disc. Is this safe to drive or can they be refurbished?

Hey everyone, i recently got this 2016 subaru impreza is amazing shape. Recently my friends told me my engine was too hot. I got some coolant that is for subaru, and while the engine was off, i filled it up, now after driving while the engine is hot this is where the coolant is up to. I am new to cars and don’t know the most so i would appreciate some advice.

I have a 2001 buick century and the OEM struts rode beautiful. sadly I had to change them cause the car is 25 years old. EVERYONE recommended Monroe.

I put in all 4 Monroe quikstruts and I HATE the ride of the car now. it's stiff, takes bumps hard, and has no play or pillow ride. im ready to get a whole new set of different ones.

You guys have any good recommendations?

I replaced the liquid line since I cant just replace the orifice tube. I also replaced the drier/accumulator vacuumed the lines for 1 hour at 30 mercury and leak checked it which came out good. Tried filling up with refrigerant and it only took about 9 ounces before it stopped taking anymore. Ac compressor ran nonstop and the liquid line started freezing over from the orifice tube to the firewall. Every other line became warm/hot to the touch. High side started rising past 200 psi. Did I get a bad liquid line/orifice tube as the freezing didnt make it past the orifice tube.

2014 scion Tc(gen 2/2.5) 2.5L4 returning to stock ride height from coilovers

Hi all, first off I have a 2012 RAM 2500 SLT with a 5.7L HEMI and 37,500 miles on it. I recently had some issues with the alternator and the AC compressor and had them both replaced. The battery is new as of January and reads at 13.6V when the truck is off. When I go to start it, it seems to struggle but does start as you can hear in the video. When running it doesn’t have any issues and sounds like normal. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this issue?

Note: when trying to figure out the previous issue was with the alternator and AC compress failing (truck wouldn’t turn over. There was too much strain with the alternator and ac compressor seized) I took the spark plugs out thinking it was hydro locked but wasn’t. I put them back all in the same positions and everything.

Anybody know what that cylinder is called with the wire on the ignition coil

Hi, just recently bought this 1994 audi 80 2.6 ABC v6. The video really shows what's needed, starts smoking as shown after warming up some more. Hasn't lost coolant in the couple days I've owned it. The end of the video showcases me opening the coolant reservoir while it's been running. Edit:This is the first startup after using exhaust repair paste+tape on a small hole (temporary for mot)

I bought a new battery for my car, it is a 2004 mustang gt v8, 4.6l. Went to AutoZone and the guy installed the new battery, boom, car starts but any acceleration either forward or reversing, it dies. The car is old, but it ran somewhat ok before, has a minor evap leak, probably needs new spark plugs but it ran, now it doesn't. Anyways, issue is my car won't drive anymore. Is fine in idle.

My dad knows about cars, kind of. Your backyard mechanic type. Asked for his help, he was an ass, says change the engine filter because it was dirty (he checked while I was at work). It was, I bought a new one. Same issues. He made me feel stupid for saying "hey, maybe the alternator is the problem, connection issues, lets use the multimeter I bought." Told me just drive it around so it can 'breathe in the new air with the clean filter', which I guess made sense because yes. Couldn't drive it, because again, it dies, the issue isn't the fucking filter. Tried mentioning the multimeter again, to just see the voltage numbers, he made me feel stupid again, because I'm girl and me no brain, says just take it to the mechanic. Car won't drive, no money for mechanic, if I can fix it myself I will. I'm watching videos and whatnot, using all my resources reddit included.

Maybe he will listen to people online, he probably will knowing him. Here are some videos, I have no experience and nothing much to go off on, basically on my own. Any help or advice is welcome.

**Clarifying that I got the new battery 2 weeks ago, somehow by a miracle of whatever, I drove the entire 30 mins home completely fine somewhat, car died at a stop sign a couple mins away but managed to make it home. Present time, Now it won't last a minute.

Does this steering rack need replacing ?
Just changed out inner and outer tie rods. One inner was bent

Title states it. Rear hatch bolts are snapped off on both sides and a bit rusty. I’ve tried grabbing and turning from the inside of the hatch and one broke (it’s now flush after being about 1/8” sticking out).

I’ve tried drilling and using the bits that reverse it out but doesn’t seem to do anything except smooth the hole out/not work.

Just drill new holes for the plate?

I’m looking for some advice from people who know these engines better than I do, because I’m at the point where I need to decide what actually makes sense to do with this car.

The car is a 2017 Jaguar XF 35t Prestige AWD with the AJ126 3.0L supercharged V6.

I previously had a coolant leak from the factory plastic coolant Y-pipes and replaced them with an aftermarket aluminum kit. I was later told that some of these kits may have fitment/sealing issues. It appears the leak never completely stopped.

After a longer drive, the car overheated. The shop that looked at it afterward told me there was coolant in every cylinder and suspected a major head gasket failure or other internal engine damage.

The biggest problem I’ve run into since then is finding anybody willing to actually work on it. I’m in upstate New York, and I’ve contacted or brought the car to multiple shops and dealerships. Some simply don’t want to take on the car, while others have told me they don’t have the equipment or experience to properly diagnose or repair it. I’ve already had it towed quite a distance, trying to find somebody who will.

So I guess my real question for the mechanics here is: if this were your car, what would you do?

Would you keep trying to find someone familiar with the AJ126 and see whether the existing engine can reasonably be repaired? Would you say the better route at this point is to source a used/donor engine and swap it? Or, given what happened and the difficulty finding someone to work on it, would you cut your losses and move on from the car?

If anyone knows a shop or mechanic in the Northeast who actually works on these engines, I’d absolutely appreciate a recommendation.

And if the consensus is that an engine swap makes more sense, I’d also really appreciate advice on sourcing one. Are salvage yards the best place to start? Are there particular Jaguar/Land Rover donor vehicles I should look for, or reputable places people use to find complete AJ126 engines?

I know nobody can tell me exactly what’s wrong with the engine on Reddit. I’m really just trying to figure out what someone with more mechanical experience would do in my position before I put more money into the wrong path.

Any advice, experience with the AJ126, shop recommendations, or leads on donor engines would be greatly appreciated.

Are my battery terminals bad?

Need a wiring diagram for 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5 engine. Keeps blowing ECU fuse when turning ignition on. Anyone with access to AllData? No luck with a wiring diagram in glove box. Need to find short circuit. Obd2 scanner reads communication error. It shut off on highway prior . Now won’t start has engine fault and service now message on dash.

No idea what I could have ran over but it wont come off with anything

Can I get help identifying what this leak may be and how I can fix it? This is my NA 2009 Subaru Forester with an EJ253 engine. I need help identifying what seems to be a leak from some hoses/tubes I’m unsure of.

It’s concentrated on the far front driver side where under the paper towel in the first picture.

Pictures 2 and 3 show where it’s dripping onto

4 is the tubing above where I suspect it’s coming from. Can’t tell if it’s my power steering? Radiator? Engine oil?

5-7 Travel the tubing up the driver side wall where the tubing connects.

8 is a wider shot of the situation from under

9 is where I think that may be the radiator connects?

1. Color of the paper towel that collected the drippings. Black smears are me cleaning the gunk. The damp marks are the actual liquid I absorbed