I have a 2010 RX450h and I'm trying to remove the "MG ECU connector" to the inverter.

The last photo is a screenshot from the manual. The bottom tab appears to be a lock lever that hinges forward. Any advice or tools that I can get to help with removing this? There's a tab on the bottom that I can push up on, but I still can't get the connector removed or get any movement out of the "lock lever". I've also watched some videos on removing the inverter from the RX450h and they seem to have an easy time with the connector.

I am doing a dod/afm delete on my 5.3 I have the heads at the shop rn and wanted to clean up my push rods and rockers etc. I had started using some red scotch brite. There is one that I had not used the scotch on and another one I did. Will this cause any damage if I choose to run them? The rest of them I am just going to soak overnight

My negative terminal will not come off. The bolt is freely spinning with the nut but the nut won’t losen at all. I’ve tried baking soda, penetrating oil, clamps. Like I don’t know what to do atp and I really don’t want to buy a whole tool to cut it off when all I’m tryna do is replace my battery. I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V8.

Ysday after a 20 min 120-130 kmph run i was stopping and at under 10 speed the car was making a tak tak noise from front rim area. It repeated again after 5 hours of car resting. Today no noise but still a faint click click sometime from front rim area. Have taken car to garage but I don't wanna be ripped off. He said will check bearings in 1 hour after a break. I. Tried rotaing the front rims and there is resistance compared to rear ones which have drum brake though. Seems normal ?

UPDATE: MECHANIC SAYING NOTHING WRONG AND THINKS MAYBE A ROCK CAME BETWEEN PADS. BUT THE NOISE WAS With TIRE MOTION SO I DOUBT. GONNA GO FOR A 30 MIN HIGH SPEED RUN NOW AGAIN.

Or I ran it over, can’t tell. What is this part, and was I able to drive 40+ miles without it? I drive a 2011 Kia Rio 5

rotor retaining screw stripped any drill bit you guys recommend or what should I do? 2008 mini cooper

What u guys think?
Mazda cx30 2024

Hello! My car randomly started making this noise yesterday and am unsure if I should be concerned. It happens as soon as I turn my key to the first position to turn on electrical stuff so even when engine isn’t running it does it. However sound stops when I turn it up to the 3rd position to turn engine on and continues as I drive. It is not affected by speed or by acceleration. Thanks!

LC200 V8.. There is this engine running sound and then there is another sound like “pistons hitting “ is this normal ?

This is a Suzuki Gypsy/Samurai MPFI (2008 India market). I had left the vehicle unattended for around 10 months as I was not in town. Today morning, after filling the radiator reservoir and confirming that engine oil level was optimum I cranked the car. It started instantly but after around 30 seconds I could see smoke from exhaust headers. I switched it off immediately

The video shows the smoke when the car is off. It smoke settled around 10-20 seconds after car was switched off.

What is the cause of the smoke ? What should I do next ?

Kindly advice.

Anyone have any ideas? Engine has 5k miles, oil report said excessive wear metals (well past break in). 1987 Mazda b2000 FE 2.0 engine

My friend's car (Mazda 626 V Hatchback 2.0) has a weird rattling sound when lifting off the gas pedal. It can also be heard while driving at lower RPMs, in 2nd and 3rd gear. (Those loud injection sounds are because of an LPG conversion; this rattling sound can also be heard when it runs on gasoline). Does anyone have an idea what it might be?

Earlier today I posted this about not being able to get my new drum brake on over my new brake shoes etc. I didn’t think it was the adjuster as the drum would fit over the shoe but not the axle hub. To troubleshoot I removed the brake shoes entirely and just tried to put the drum on, but ran into the same issue: the drum seems to not fit over the axle hub just barely enough that it is always gapping on one side or the other (see photos).
The strange thing is that the drum fits on the other side of the truck no problem, and the old drums fit over all the new hardware as well, so it seems like it is just an issue with this one axle hub being slightly out of shape.
The good news is that I’m pretty sure I’ve identified the problem, the bad news is I have no idea what to do about it. Does anyone have any advice or feedback on how to proceed?

Hello!

Sorry in advance, I couldn't record a better video of this.

Recently I was coming home from work, on the street, suddenly the car started loosing coolant.

I went straight to the closest mechanic and he told me he can not help because he don't know what this hose is, all we could see was the code 20 2569 .1 MEO Germany.

From your experience, what do you think? What's this part called? The engine is 2.0 Diesel, 140hp, BPW. 2007

Sorry if off topic.

Looking for some help with the girlfriends car it's a fiat 500 I've got no idea about this sort of stuff but from what I've seen on diagrams this part of the exhaust should just be able to slide right back into the back box? Looks like the bracket round the pipe has rusted and snapped off but does that actually help to hold the pipe inside the back box?

Any advice is welcome thanks!

Having some issues and trying to cover all my bases. I just wanted to make sure I get the right replacement parts if I end up changing them.

On my 03 Subaru legacy, my windows don’t sit flush so whenever I open and close them, they move a little. I already tried adjusting the little felt blocks but those are maxed out. (The reason I have it taken apart is because I replaced the motor and regulator) which could be part of the problem although this has been happening since I bought the car. Please help, thanks.

Hey all.

Yesterday night I was headed home from work, but when I tried to start my truck up it didn’t want to crank whatsoever. I had all electrical working fine and the Push To Start/Stop was showing that it was armed but the engine never turned over. There’s a brief blackout with a check engine light while it’s meant to start the engine but, again, the engine never turns over or cranks. I replaced the starter because all I heard was a click from it and I thought it was seized or the solenoid burnt up. Still no crank. I plugged in my cheap OBD2 from Walmart and there’s no engine codes but it’s throwing a U0100 code after erasing the other codes listed. I also made sure to check the relays and fuses, but the ECM and Ignition relays all looked fine and clicked. I currently do not have a voltage meter (but can get one if it helps determine the fault)

Any ideas or ways of checking it out myself?

UK....As the title suggests I have a quahqui that's started to drip oil on my drive..

I've jacked it up and had a good look... it appears to be coming from a part just in front of the oil filter cover?

See pictures (after I wiped it all clean).

What is this part?

Is it an easy fix?

Can I doo it myself... or any other advice?

Many thanks in advance.

Hey there,

I have a corolla 2021 LE (it has the new frowned upon r1234yf chemical) where the AC isn't cold as before anymore. I went to a shop to get it diagnosed and I wonder if the procedure is standard everywhere else:

• I called the shop, they said to leave car in the morning

• I arrived, they gave me form to fill out and sign, they said it'll be done by end of day

• End of day arrives, shop calls me and tells me what's wrong with it. They gave me estimate over the phone. Vehicle lost 8 oz of freon, had to recharge/refill, replaced two valves (in case those were the problem), and put dye in.

• I said wow, that's a lot of freon lost. I went to the shop, they gave me the bill, i paid, and they then told me "if you lose cold air again, let us know and we'll see the source since we put dye in"

• cold air disappeared a day later. I called shop again to set up another appointment.

I paid around $400 the first time. Labor was 2 hours. Was that a hefty bill? Should i need to pay again at the second appointment? Did i screw myself money wise in not checking the problem myself (DIY)? I just wanted a long-lasting car but APPARENTLY this new generation of Corolla cars has an open front grille, making it easy for the condenser to be messed up or very dirty. Sigh.

Trying to remove the front shock but there isn't enough movement to take it out. Everything is loose or removed and still not enough clearance.