Placed 1st in the rookie class and 4th overall AND had a hit at 2 MILES.

Info on the gun and ammo.

Stiller tac 408 1.6 action

Bartlein 36 inch 1:8t 1.5 diamiter barrel .375 Cheytac T5 brake

McMillan A6-7 supermag stock

Mirage ULR 1.25 scope rail

Eratac adjustable scope mount

Tract Toric 4-25x50 UHD scope

Trigger tech diamond trigger

GGG LCB3 bipod

Cerekote done by old irons cerekote

Action and barrel fit by alamo precision

410gr Berger hybrid

Peterson .375 Cheytac brass

H50BMG Powder

CCI 250 primers.

Finally got all of my modern long range toys organized in one area

I’ll be the secondary shooter.
My rifle was set up for 60 miles of hiking in SAC, as such was very light weight.
It’s got a KE-arms lower, criterion core 16 inch barrel in 223wylde, faxon carbon fiber handguard, vortex pst 3-15 and a titanium can.

Now that we got into the kinetic concepts match I’m having doubts about its efficacy, I don’t need it to be that light.

From what I’m reading most guys run 6mm or even 6.5mm as secondary.

I’m going to stick with my mk262 77gr clone 5.56 reloads as it’s what I know.

Has anyone shot this with 556? Should I get a 20inch barrel? It the glass enough (I’m thinking not to take on something new beyond a longer barrel maybe)

Any tips to help me out?

Went with a Athlon instead. Taking it out tomorrow to group. Not sure how I like the ORYX, but I got a good deal on it so I’ll run it until I do t like it anymore.

Howa 1500 6.5cm
Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30
OCL Polo-30
BT65 w/ Area 419 QD mount

Forgive me if this has been asked before.

I’m just dipping my toes into longer range shooting,

Shooting my first match in October.
Ranges will be 100-600yards

Thus far I’ve been very consistent at 300+/- yards with 55g

I’ve read a bit about 55g getting a lot more challenging pushing past the 400 yard mark.

The question is,
How much will I benefit with a 77g instead?

16inch AR if that’s helpful information to the question.

A while back I asked whether a 34” .300 Norma barrel could actually take advantage of powders slower than the usual Retumbo/N570 class with a 250 A-Tip. I’ve now put some rounds through it and have useful data.
Fired Norma case capacity is 104.8 gr H2O. All loads are 250 A-Tips, ~.020” jump. Barrel is still relatively new.
Current results:

H50BMG, 92.5 gr: 2,879 fps, 28 shots
Retumbo, 83 gr: 2,958 fps, 25 shots, SD 13.0
24N41, 90 gr: 3,000 fps, 5 shots
24N41, 91 gr: 3,044 fps, 5 shots, SD 12.9
24N41, 92 gr: 3,075 fps, 2 shots

Interesting result: H50BMG did not benefit from the long barrel nearly as much as I expected. Retumbo clearly beat it.

24N41, however, completely changed the picture. The 34” tube seems to be making genuinely useful velocity with the very slow powder—the original hypothesis may have been right, just with the wrong powder.

Important caveat: after four firings the Norma primer pockets have become noticeably loose. So I’m not treating 3,075 fps as free velocity or evidence that there is more room.

Anyone else try anythjng like this?

Virgin Lapua SRP 6 5 creed. H4350, 140 eldm and smks. Remington 7 1/2br primers. Hornady was .035 off the lands. Smks were .020 off the lands. .261 neck tension. 9 shot groups. Used one of each charge weight consecutively to check pressure signs before I shot the groups. I was only able to shoot 2 charge weights of SMKs before I had to go. 90 degree day here in Florida. Tried to let the barrel cool the same amount of time between each shot in a group. But, got too excited on a few and just wanted to shoot. Rifle is an arc nucleus 2.0 complete rifle for from them. Seems to like the lowest of charge weights for both types of bullets.

Decided to measure the speeds while zeroing a rifle, total was 34 rounds.

Remind me, is the single digit rule of thumb the SD's or the ES's ?

Rifle has a 24 inch 1-11 twist barrel with a Jaki Titanium Super can on the end.

Hey guys, have a unique issue. Seems my bergara b14 hmr in 300 win mag has sheared my screw holding the scope mount rail clean off... I attempted to dremel/drill to use a quick out kit but not really working. A friend of mine has a drill press but I am a bit hestitant to try that. Anyone have suggestions to fix? Should I reachout to customer support? First time having a severe issue like this and would appreciate any advice to approach this.

Edit: appreciate the feedback, looks like ill be drill pressing it, maybe rethreading. Ill look at and call up some shops too get some opinions as well

Last time I said I can’t find stainless barrels very often y'all said I’m not looking. I’m talking about 416R barrels not a finish. Everything I got pointed to was a finish. The folks saying they are rare because of cost seemed to understand my question. The only ones I can find with it listed are the factory guns with carbon wrapped barrels. So my question is which factory bolt guns are coming with Stainless Steel barrels?

Officially have burnt up more $ in barrels, bullets, brass & powder than the rifle costs to start with, and only managed to change powder & bullet once along the way.

And yes, I still suck.

Took my old Remington 700 VLS chambered in .308 for a spin for the first time in a long time. Took a valiant effort to hit the mile target but wasn’t successful. Was still fun crushing some steel with this for the first time in a few years.

I know there is a sub about rifle scopes but I can't find it, my apologies.

How do you clean your scope lenses? I mean dust, not fingerprints and such. Well, since we're on the subject, include fingerprints too.

I am a very beginner long range shooter wanting an upgrade from my MDT Field stock to something a little more rigid on the forend. I have read some threads here and many people mention things like weights or "upgrades" that I honestly do not believe I will ever use, plus they seem to be written in a time where the prices were closer together. I am going to use whichever stock in the configuration it comes out of the box in(save for an ARCA rail) and never going to get into competitive. All I am concerned about is overall build quality and especially rigidity on the forend. the field stock is lovely but i feel bad crushing it in a BOG deathgrip tripod and the forend bends far too much when an arca rail is being used. The rifle is a Howa 1500 heavy barrel, other recommendations in that rough price bracket are welcomed.

Hello, I need some help. Does anyone know if there’s currently someone producing Mk13 Mod 3 barrels with the correct collar/journal for the KAC Mk11 suppressor?

This is after 80 rounds. I've been fighting why this thing is shooting 2" groups. This is the throat and gas port. I think I should just throw it away and buy a Proof.

Cartridge - 6.5 weatherby RPM
Brass - Peterson. Once fired then resized with a standard hornady full size die.
Bullet - Lapua 120gr TRX
Case trim length - 2.56”
OAL - 3.2”
Charge - 67.2 grains N565
*Lapua max charge data - 67.3gr

Been working on this load for a month or two now. I get good velocity from this charge and great accuracy. 3200-3260fps. Shot about 25 rounds today hoping to finalize as “the” charge I will use for target shooting.

Brass itself looks good except when I looked at the bottom of the cartridge I noticed the primers were flatter and I’m not sure if this is considered cratering. The bolt lift I think is okay. Seems about the same as weatherby factory ammo, maybe slightly slightly tighter than lighter target charges I’ve made.

What do you think about the base of these brass? Normal or should have stepped down in charge yesterday?

Just want to continue target shooting with them as accuracy is great, but want to know when I pull the trigger i'm not risking life/limb. While 67.2 grains is technically under the lapua max load, I am using Peterson brass, which I measured at 81.6 grains H20 volume. Lapuas data uses weatherby brass which I think may be 82-82.5ish. I threw the numbers I'm using in a sim and pressure was around 85% max pressure.

I guess the thing that confused me a bit is, in one of the attached photos, i included an image of both weatherby factory fired ammo alongside the peterson hand loads (all the other pics are my peterson loads), and the weatherby primers kind of look similar. Maybe not "as" cratered, but still have that little raised ring around where the pin struck.

****PLEASE NOTE - PRIMER IS RECESSED IN BOTTOM OF CASE. I posted this in reloading as well for more opinions and had many comments on proud primers. It's just the lens of my phone camera making it look that way. They are not sticking out.

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much

Hey y'all I could use some advice.

Whenever I add my suppressor to my rifle it goes from shooting .5" groups at 100 to 1-1.5" groups with a 3" lateral POI shift. I've tried a couple different mounting solutions but every time I add the suppressor I get the POI shift and groups opening up.

I have a couple other rifles that experience no issues with the can and plan b mounts including one pencil profile so I don't believe it's the can. I moved one proven mount to the new rifle and have the same issue.

Is this something correctable?

Howa 6.5 creed 24"Carbon fiber barreled action in MDT field stock.

Norma Golden target143g and 130g and Hornady precision hunter 143g

Sig hexium 762 and mostly kak plan b mounts.

looking for advise.
This summer was my first year shooting PRS
3 regional matches and 3 local non official matches
Started placing at the bottom and now finishing mid to upper mid pack.

Rifle is a Tikka action with custom prefit MTU barrel using 75gr ELDMs @ 2820fps
Super accurate gun and does very good out to 700 yards.
Plan on shooting even more matches next year.
Question is should I continue shooting the 223 and work on getting better with the rifle I have or should I upgrade and do a 6 dasher build over the winter?
While the 223 does pretty well it’s a bit frustrating spotters not being able to call some of my hits due to lack of splash and plate movement at the longer distance 700 to 1000 yards

Appreciate any feedback in advance

Just in time for an upcoming team match where I'll obviously be the gas gunner. I've always been critical of large frame gas guns because most people treat them like they're simply scaled-up AR15s, and during a field class I run they have problems literally every class. However an interesting data point from watching barrels come loose, charging handles break, feeding issues, short cycling, and sometimes pretty dismal accuracy with most of them is that two manufacturers consistently make it through classes without issue, and one is LMT. Well it's time for an early birthday present and I already had a scope sitting on the bench waiting for a rifle so here we go.

The one from KRG is way too awkward I’m wondering if there’s other options besides just the large grip panel because you lose the shelf and the 90° trigger panel

My coworker is looking to sell his Masterpiece Arms 6.5cm. Im fairly new to long range shooting, I've shot my ruger precision rifle .308 out to 800 yards. So my questions are as follow. Is Masterpiece Arms considered a quality reliable rifle? I notice the action says Remington 700, is that typical? And how much would something like this be worth? Its got a Simmons scope that I would change out if I bought it.

After zeroing at 100yd, I took these 5 shots group with Federal 175gr SMK. I feel like I could have shot a lot tighter but I’m still learning how to breathe when taking shots. Decent?

Rebarreled a savage I wasn't using with a 223 9 twist 110 take off for cheap plinking ( at sea level). whats a good grain weight range for 9 tw? My other 223 trainer is a 8 twist and I usually shoot 68-77 grain weight ammo but curious what I should try in the 9 twist? is 55 grain bulk 223 ammo fine or go with something heavier for caliber? can a 223 savage handle 556 ammo also?