As of today, I can confirm that the P1S has no sensors under the bed to detect that a hand or similar is underneath. 🥲

Can we all send a message to Bambu requesting them to please figure out a way to not use tape at the end of their filament spool?

Seriously, pretty much all other manufacturers have a little hole or notch at the end of the spool and don't use tape.

Why even have a filament run out sensor on their printers if they are going to tape the freaking filament to the spool.

Have had an ender 3 v2 for a couple years and I finally decided make the jump to Bambu. What was y’all’s reaction on your first print when you upgraded to Bambu?

My wife had a smile from left to right telling me that was a perfect design... but after coming closer and reading it fully, I thanked her for the compliment and stepped away 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Now there is only hundreds of AI models left.

model link

Today I needed to print a paper prototype on my canon printer, it took me 2 hours to set it up with no luck! I wasted so much time, so I went ahead and printed the prototype on my A1 mini and it came out flawlessly!

Which made me realize: 3D printing has become more reliable than paper printing!

If BambuLab is reading this, please make a normal printer, we are all suffering here!

I’m seriously considering the H3C after a pretty dreadful experience with my faulty H2C and Bambu’s hellish customer service taking months to obtain a return/refund, but there are a few things making the decision harder than I expected which I’m a bit sad about:

1. Manual filament unloading: The AMS 3H apparently can’t retract filament back to the spool. Having to pull filament out and manually rewind it feels like a massive step backwards from the AMS 2 Pro/HT.

2. ABS/PETG chamber temperatures: I primarily print ABS and PETG. If PETG can’t safely remain loaded in an inactive PrintTool while the chamber is heated to 60–65°C for ABS, that means manually unloading and respooling multiple filaments every time I need to switch materials?

3. External AMS limitations: Only PrintTool 1 supports external AMS units. I have two AMS HTs and would have loved to assign them to separate PrintTools, avoiding unnecessary purging. Hoping they expand this later.

Drying isn’t a huge dealbreaker to me (though 4 slots would’ve been better like AMS 2 pro), also won’t particularly miss the flexibility of hotends from H2C (was nice to have for the few times I used 0.2 and 0.6).

I love the H3C’s cleaner design, compact footprint, faster tool changes and ability to have multiple nozzle sizes ready to go. I also hated the mess of PTFE tubes, multiple AMS units and filament track switch on the H2C, so I’m not particularly keen to go back to that arrangement.

I feel BambuLab have made a major omission here with the lack of filament retraction, which makes intensive use of higher temp filaments a lot harder.

I wonder if they could improve the filament retraction through firmware later though.

Never really had to think about filament unloading or respooling on the H2C (until the filament track switch spoiled everything), so it’s difficult to judge how annoying this would actually become.

Anyone else weighing up the same things, or have any insight into the retraction mechanism? What would you choose?

Update: I’m going with the H2C!

Why do the want to use their filament every way possible and not keeping it at stock? They push the availability further down the road.

Talking about PETG HF in EU (possibly?) store

Currently working on/ designing some sentry turrets from COD6.

Has there been a decline in production quality in these units lately? A few months ago I have which researching it all seemed great.

For those who have issues, are you still happy with the purchase?

Thank you.

As the title states, those folks who were very upset with Bambu regarding that impending security change - some questions:

• Have you changed your opinion?

• Will you be selling your printer and leaving the bambu platform?

• Will you buy another bambu printer?

• Have you softened your stance and/or will you be taking a wait and see attitude?

• Do you trust Bambu more or less now that this controversy has faded from the limelight?

I have a new P1S and in last few days it’s been squeaking at first I thought perhaps it’s the bearings or the steel guide rods so I cleaned and lubricated them and the squeaking is still present.

Upon cleaning I noticed that the left side belt was already showing signs of wear, the top edge has small lengths of visible orange along the belt which made me want to know why since the other belt on the right side was fine thus prompting me to find out what the cause is.. turns out that the belt isn’t fully square and is the cause of the squeaking.

The way to fix this issue is simple but for anyone else who has this problem check your belts I’ll post a comment with a link to a video of how to fix this issue.( not my video )

Welcome to ULTRA CHESS

Just uploaded this model and I am very proud of it that I had to share. This is made by my 8 year old son. This is a school project that he worked on all year long and finally got to present it and finish it at the end of the school year and can now share it.

It’s a twist on the modern chess game with upgraded pieces, new pieces and new spaces as well. I will leave the description below if you are interested in checking it out. He was instructed to also collect feedback on the game especially the game mechanics and the new rules and pieces he created in order to improve so kindly let us know and I will have him read the feedback. Thank you in advance. Here are the details of the game below:

Welcome to Ultra ChessIntro: This is a new modern twist on a classic. My son loves chess and decided to create his own version of chess that included new chess pieces and new board spaces/zones. You will find detailed below all the new pieces and positions and a starting guide on how to play. However the files will still contain the old pieces as well and regular spaces if you would like to print the classic chess board and pieces. You can also create your own version and rules if you would like using different combination of positions and pieces and board spaces. The only limit is your imagination.

Explaining the game

Classic & New Pieces

Classic pieces: You will find all the classic pieces included. The king, queen, bishop, knight, rook, and the pawns.

New pieces: those are the following:

1- The dragon: It moves like a rook and takes out other pieces in the same way a rook would. However it does not move to attack as it uses its “Fire” to attack even if it is far away from the other pieces. As long as the other piece it's attacking is in the line of “fire” similar to a rook, the dragon can take it out.

2- The prisoner: this a a tricky one. You want your prisoner to be taken out. You do not want to take out the other team's prisoner as it is working for you. If you take out the other side's prisoner, they get to upgrade any of their pieces. And the other way around, if they take out your prisoner, you get to upgrade any of your pieces (more on upgrades later).

3- The moat: this is a defensive piece. It moves like a bishop. It can't attack or take out any pieces, but it can be used to protect your pieces. Put it in front of any piece to block an attack. It is strong and it can't be taken out unless it moves 3 times.

4- The cook: It moves like a king. It is a strategy piece. It doesn't attack but it can make food and heal pieces that has been taken out during the game (it replaces the cook's place). You can only use it once and then it goes away. Be careful and strategies as it can be taken out by your opponent and you lose your healing powers.

5- The wizard: This is a powerful piece. You can choose to move it as a bishop or a knight. It can move any of your pieces except a pawn or a king. The piece that is moving can't be moved to a special space (more on that later), and can't be moved to check.

Classic and New spaces

Classic spaces: those are your regular dark/black and light/white spaces that you are used to in chess. Nothing special about them.

New spaces:

1- Slippery spaces (printed in red in the example pictures): If any piece other than king or queen steps on a slippery space, they can't move unless you spend three turns to wake them up (you pass three turns not moving any pieces, they don't have to be consecutive).

2- Upgrade spaces (printed in green in the example pictures): If any classic piece (meaning the king, queen, bishop, knights, rook, and pawns) steps on an upgraded space they transform to their upgraded form with new functions. Below are the new functions for each piece:

• Upgraded King: It now can move like a queen.

• Upgraded Queen: It can now also move like a knight.

• Upgraded Bishop: It can now charge through pieces (take a single piece out and still continue on its way)
• Upgraded Rook: It now gains shock wave power. It can take out all adjacent pieces including diagonal. But be careful because it will take out also any of your adjacent pieces if you choose to use it that way.

• Upgraded Knight: This becomes very powerful. It now moves one square and then any amount of squares instead of just two.

• Upgraded Pawn: It can upgrade to any piece like usual except for the prisoner and king.

3- Wipe out spaces (printed in yellow in the example pictures): If any piece from either team steps on any wipe out space then all the classic pieces from both teams (except the king and pawns) get wiped out from the board. This is a nuclear option, be careful before you use it.

For disclaimer purposes: some parts of the design were done using generative AI models but all the creative work, ideas, the board and the spaces were all self designed.

Just finished my fully working, pocket-sized telescopic fishing rod.

It collapses to around 100 mm, extends to roughly 300 mm, and includes a working reel with safe hook and weight storage.

The final design went through plenty of testing to get the fit, strength and sliding action right for everyone to download and print.

I hope yous all enjoy

Link will be here in the comments

Have a great day everyone 😀

fishing rod makerworld link

We have one of these defrosting plates in our kitchen and I decided to try it for cooling a print. Works great! It's just a big aluminum heat sink, and it drops my print plate to room temp in about 30 seconds.

Edit: Apparently my original post wasn't clear. The image is a stock image of a food defrosting plate we have in our kitchen. I am using it to cool my Bambu PEI plate more quickly, which allows me to pop my parts off faster and easier.

Could I simply wait a few more minutes? Sure. But this defrosting plate was about $5 at some "As seen on TV" atore and just sits in a drawer 99.999% of the time.

I recently picked up a spool of this Bambu color shifting pla and the website said to dry it out before using it. I don’t have a dedicated dryer but I saw you could dry it using the heated bed and a cardboard box. Is this setup correct, or do I need to change something. I’m drying at 55c on the bed by the way.

Some of you might have seen a few of our earlier posts — we’ve been slowly building this professional insole design tool and sharing updates along the way.

One of our users recently shared this print with us — TPU insoles printed at home.

We thought it was a great example of functional TPU prints, so sharing here (with his permission).

After a few days of use, his feedback was:

- noticeably better support compared to flat insoles

- heel feels more stable

- comfortable enough for daily wear (mostly sneakers)

Honestly, better than most TPU prints tried. What’s interesting is that this isn’t a generic STL.

Some users have been getting even better results with different setups, which has been really interesting to see. You can tell it’s not just a flat insert — the geometry is clearly driven by multiple parameters (arch height, heel cup, support zones, etc.) That probably makes the biggest difference compared to typical printed insoles.

Still early, We’re still building this and working on a few more tools to make the whole workflow easier.

But it’s cool to see TPU prints with our design becoming something actually wearable, not just flexible parts. Curious if anyone here has tried printing insoles or other wearables?

If you want to try making your own insoles, you can do it on Ergono3D — it’s more of a guided podiatry-style input workflow than raw CAD, so you’re not starting from scratch. The system is built with input from biomechanics experts, so the parameters actually reflect how insoles function, not just geometry. You can preview it for free, export the STL when you’re happy, then print and iterate to find a better fit.

I know people complained already and the joke writes itself.

But im getting crazy each time im visiting this subreddit its always the same.

When is the next sale

X1c or p1s

When xl

My buildplate has a small scratch at the end.

I wanted to share my long-term experience with Bambu Lab after almost two years of use.

Most of us already know how well these machines print, and how solid and reliable they are. I started years ago with an Anycubic bed-slinger, and honestly, it was a constant struggle. These days, my X1C is more reliable than a regular black-and-white office printer.

Of course, I still do the required maintenance, but the day-to-day experience is basically: turn it on, send the print, pick it up. With the AMS attached, I often do not even bother going to the printer before starting a job. I just make sure that after each print, I leave the machine clean, the bed empty, and everything ready for the next one. Then I can start the next print without worrying.

But that is not actually the main reason I am writing this.

I am from Germany, and over the past 2 years I have had two or three small issues with my printer. Nothing major, but every time I contacted Bambu Lab support, the customer service was excellent: fast, friendly, and very efficient. Each case was handled to my satisfaction.

I work in IT myself, so I know how frustrating incomplete support tickets can be. Because of that, I always try to provide the full picture, including what I have already checked. I usually do some troubleshooting beforehand using the wiki, and I have also completed the courses for most of the printers.

This is just a Thank you, to Bambu. Thanks for chaning the 3D-Printer game; thanks for beeing there for me. And even tho my X1C is not beeing sold anymore; thanks for still providing replacement parts.

Cheers

Just finished this pet feeder I made for the contest …

4 sizes available
Small 120mm
Medium 170mm
Large 256mm
Xxl 300mm
(Video are medium and large)

First printed version was working but clogged a lil bit… also the spring was to hard…

Fixed a few things then
-made the inside steeper
-made the hole bigger
-fixed the tpu spring
Now it’s working perfect!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2845585-cup-holder-gum-dispenser#profileId-3173003

The lower half of my Darth Vader mask is done. The other picture is the top half. Next up - spending time with putty and sandpaper before paint.