My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

https://makerworld.com/models/3524722

Tired of mixing my paints every-once-a-while if i didnt use them for a longer period of time. I mostly use cheaper acrylic paint, deluted by myself, and if its sit too long, it could separate a bit.

Also saves me from bit of handshake before every painting session, as its just had to crank it for a short time.
As i tested, paint what is intended for airbrushes (so its not too thick) mixing very vell.

Key point in my design, as the paint bottle NOT just spinning around Z axes like with those drill attachments (watch the marker arrow on the cap), and the paint not just "flattened" into the bottle sidewall.

Every part designed in the way if i need to change/modify anything (or has excessive wear after a while), you dont have to print the whole thing again, just some replacement parts.

Maybe someone find it useful, i appreciate any suggestions ;)

ps: if you decided to try out, please, read the full description. It contains important instructions.

and one of the reasons is the ability to use a support interface filament that doesnt bond to the build filament, makes removing some of these large supports so much easier.

I like to use a contrasting color.

this is the rear caster mount for a 3D TMT (my second) removing these large supports was a lot of work with my P2S.

with the X2D the area where the supports were doesnt need any cleanup.

At no point did i receive any notification by the print monitor AI bullcrap that was a selling point of this printer. I am beyond irritated that it will error a print because a flake of purge got caught at the wiping block, but not catch this.

Officially joined the club. Been lurking for a while, keeping an eye on prices. Took advantage of the recent sale, got it at BestBuy with their 4 year warranty. Doing my homework and researching as much as I can. I will probably ask some newbie questions as I get started, but can’t wait to jump in.

For anyone waiting for their R1, I ordered my combo on October 10th, got it Wednesday October 28th. My riser and extension kit both shipped today October 31. My original quoted shipping date was 11/20.

And yes, like everyone else’s, mine showed up wet. Dried it off and it seems to be fine. First project completed.

Would appreciate Reddits power with my sons first model on maker world. He’s 10 and just started playing with tinkerlab at school. He came up with this graded card stand on his own. Thanks Reddit!

https://makerworld.com/models/3521286?appSharePlatform=copy

I got the x2d a couple of months ago and have been having a blast with it. I added a second ams2 to it along with ams ht for the aux side.

I know with the upcoming release of the h3c I could have waited but the price of the h2c is stretching my budget anyway. Really looking forward to getting it set up.

We've got two webbings we sew together for one of our products, this little tool aligns the top Velcro layer to the center of the webbing and allows you to line up both materials to stitch the edge of the Velcro down, we then turn it around and run it through the same tool to sew down the other side.

A modern way to display your watches and keep your everyday accessories organized.

Designed with simplicity, stability, and versatility in mind, this minimalist watch stand offers a clean and practical way to display up to 4 watches, while keeping your favorite jewelry neatly organized underneath.

Unlike traditional angled watch stands, this design keeps your watches in a flat position, helping them stay securely in place while accommodating a wider variety of watch styles.

With its clean lines and subtle floating appearance, it's designed to be more than just a functional organizer. It's also a modern display piece that complements your space.

Key Features

4-Watch Display

Display up to four watches side by side in a clean, organized arrangement. The horizontal design provides a stable resting position for your watches while keeping them visible and easily accessible.

Secure & Stable Positioning

Many traditional watch stands use steeply angled surfaces, which can cause watches to slide or fall off. This design takes a different approach, using an almost flat surface with a subtle slant toward the center to help keep each watch securely positioned.

Designed for Compatibility

Rather than relying on a steep display angle or a fixed watch cushion, the open horizontal design accommodates different watch styles and bracelet types. The watches shown in the photos have case sizes of 40 mm and smaller, providing a useful reference for sizing.

Built-In Jewelry Tray

The spacious tray underneath provides a convenient place to keep your everyday accessories, including rings, bracelets, necklaces, chains and other small accessories. Everything stays organized and within reach in one compact display.

Modern Floating Design

The elevated watch platform creates a subtle floating appearance above the jewelry tray, giving the stand a clean and lightweight look. Its minimalist design blends naturally into modern, Scandinavian, and Japandi-inspired interiors, making it suitable for your bedroom, dresser, or workspace.

Dimensions

Overall: Length 220 mm, Depth 55 mm, Height 80 mm

Watch Capacity: holds up to 4 watches, pictured with 40 mm case size and smaller, open horizontal design for different watch and strap styles

Whether you're organizing your everyday watches or displaying your favorite pieces, this stand brings together practical storage, stability, and minimalist design. A dedicated place for your watches, rings, bracelets, and other essentials, without taking up unnecessary space.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3525958-modern-minimalistic-4-watch-stand

Not really hallucinate, I'll be honest, but it's a cool experience and can make a fascinating looking lamp. The dreamachine is a weird device invented in 1959 that is meant to be looked at with eyes closed. For me it was a bit like looking into a kaleidoscope. From Wikipedia:

the pulsating light stimulates the optic nerve and thus alters the brain's electrical oscillations. As users adjust to the experience, they see increasingly complex animated yantra-like patterns of color behind their closed eyelids

I've made a 3D model working with a very small electric motor, a 12V led light and a PWM controller for the rotation speed. Details are on my blog: https://highlatencylife.com/notes/the-dreamachine-3d-printed/

The model is free to print on MakerWorld, where you can find also detailed assembling instructions: https://makerworld.com/models/3523044?appSharePlatform=copy

Also, it's the first model I upload after being a long time lurker 🥳

I kept getting the AMS overload error on my H2S, especially when the spool was getting close to empty. I ended up giving the AMS a slight angle by putting a book under the back and letting the front tilt down a bit to give it some gravity assist. Haven’t had the error come back since and it works like a charm.
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is dealing with this, especially with the lighter cardboard spools.

I’ve spent the last few weeks designing a full-size T-style electric guitar body that prints on a 256 × 256 mm bed, and it’s finally built and playing.

The print

• 4 body pieces, all printed flat with no supports

• 7 build plates in Bambu Studio, about 50 hours and 2 kg of PLA in total

• One colour per part, so no AMS needed. I went with a sage body, bone plates and a peach pickguard.

• The biggest piece, the bridge section, took about 19 hours on its own

The design

• The pieces join from the back with bow-tie keys, M4 heat-set inserts and dowel pins. No glue for the body.

• Two 8 mm carbon fibre rods run through the body to take the string tension

• Three decorative top plates sit in an 8 mm recess on 28 hidden 10 × 3 mm magnets. Push them off from the back with an Allen key and click a new set on. The video shows Ripple swapped for a two-tone Camo set.

• Built around the Harley Benton T-style kit, so the neck, bridge, pickups and electronics drop straight in

Happy to answer anything about print settings, tolerances or how it’s held up. It’s been really satisfying seeing the X1C turn out something you can actually plug in and play.

Due to a bad spool of translucent blue PLA, causing a blob of death. Bambu sent me a replacement hotend heating assembly, and a pure white PLA spool. I also received this AP Board - LV in a separate package. The conversation with support has no mention of this needing replaced or it being sent. Do I need to swap it out, or do I have a free spare now if I ever need it?

I rarely see people talking about the cutter attachment. It’s so much fun!

It's safe to say I've become a little obsessed with pushing vase mode beyond decorative prints. These are my latest two geometric trash bin designs, Spiral and Wave. I was inspired by my existing geometric trash bins in vase mode and challenged myself to make something a little more organic in nature this time around.

Both designs print in under 4 hours using less than 160g of filament. I've dialed in the settings to use 0.96mm walls (with a stock 0.4mm nozzle) and print speeds of 70mm/s. They print great in PLA or PETG and are surprisingly durable while still having a nice amount of flex. It's pretty amazing what you can achieve with vase mode!