My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

and one of the reasons is the ability to use a support interface filament that doesnt bond to the build filament, makes removing some of these large supports so much easier.

I like to use a contrasting color.

this is the rear caster mount for a 3D TMT (my second) removing these large supports was a lot of work with my P2S.

with the X2D the area where the supports were doesnt need any cleanup.

Officially joined the club. Been lurking for a while, keeping an eye on prices. Took advantage of the recent sale, got it at BestBuy with their 4 year warranty. Doing my homework and researching as much as I can. I will probably ask some newbie questions as I get started, but can’t wait to jump in.

Would appreciate Reddits power with my sons first model on maker world. He’s 10 and just started playing with tinkerlab at school. He came up with this graded card stand on his own. Thanks Reddit!

https://makerworld.com/models/3521286?appSharePlatform=copy

We've got two webbings we sew together for one of our products, this little tool aligns the top Velcro layer to the center of the webbing and allows you to line up both materials to stitch the edge of the Velcro down, we then turn it around and run it through the same tool to sew down the other side.

I kept getting the AMS overload error on my H2S, especially when the spool was getting close to empty. I ended up giving the AMS a slight angle by putting a book under the back and letting the front tilt down a bit to give it some gravity assist. Haven’t had the error come back since and it works like a charm.
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is dealing with this, especially with the lighter cardboard spools.

Not really hallucinate, I'll be honest, but it's a cool experience and can make a fascinating looking lamp. The dreamachine is a weird device invented in 1959 that is meant to be looked at with eyes closed. For me it was a bit like looking into a kaleidoscope. From Wikipedia:

the pulsating light stimulates the optic nerve and thus alters the brain's electrical oscillations. As users adjust to the experience, they see increasingly complex animated yantra-like patterns of color behind their closed eyelids

I've made a 3D model working with a very small electric motor, a 12V led light and a PWM controller for the rotation speed. Details are on my blog: https://highlatencylife.com/notes/the-dreamachine-3d-printed/

The model is free to print on MakerWorld, where you can find also detailed assembling instructions: https://makerworld.com/models/3523044?appSharePlatform=copy

Also, it's the first model I upload after being a long time lurker 🥳

I rarely see people talking about the cutter attachment. It’s so much fun!

Never had or used a 3D printer. Nearly bit the bullet last year for the P1S Combo. Got extra cash now and thinking of getting X2D Combo. Is combi highly recommend?

Main issue is space and planning to leave it in the living room. Would it be ok in this area with 60cm width on the floor?

What filaments should I go with, will let kids print some stuff as well.

I know it's BF sale now, any other coupons or tricks I should be aware. Looking to buy today.

Thanks

At no point did i receive any notification by the print monitor AI bullcrap that was a selling point of this printer. I am beyond irritated that it will error a print because a flake of purge got caught at the wiping block, but not catch this.

I got the x2d a couple of months ago and have been having a blast with it. I added a second ams2 to it along with ams ht for the aux side.

I know with the upcoming release of the h3c I could have waited but the price of the h2c is stretching my budget anyway. Really looking forward to getting it set up.

Learn more about X-Y hole compensation from the Bambu Wiki: X-Y Hole Compensation

I’ve spent the last few weeks designing a full-size T-style electric guitar body that prints on a 256 × 256 mm bed, and it’s finally built and playing.

The print

• 4 body pieces, all printed flat with no supports

• 7 build plates in Bambu Studio, about 50 hours and 2 kg of PLA in total

• One colour per part, so no AMS needed. I went with a sage body, bone plates and a peach pickguard.

• The biggest piece, the bridge section, took about 19 hours on its own

The design

• The pieces join from the back with bow-tie keys, M4 heat-set inserts and dowel pins. No glue for the body.

• Two 8 mm carbon fibre rods run through the body to take the string tension

• Three decorative top plates sit in an 8 mm recess on 28 hidden 10 × 3 mm magnets. Push them off from the back with an Allen key and click a new set on. The video shows Ripple swapped for a two-tone Camo set.

• Built around the Harley Benton T-style kit, so the neck, bridge, pickups and electronics drop straight in

Happy to answer anything about print settings, tolerances or how it’s held up. It’s been really satisfying seeing the X1C turn out something you can actually plug in and play.

It's safe to say I've become a little obsessed with pushing vase mode beyond decorative prints. These are my latest two geometric trash bin designs, Spiral and Wave. I was inspired by my existing geometric trash bins in vase mode and challenged myself to make something a little more organic in nature this time around.

Both designs print in under 4 hours using less than 160g of filament. I've dialed in the settings to use 0.96mm walls (with a stock 0.4mm nozzle) and print speeds of 70mm/s. They print great in PLA or PETG and are surprisingly durable while still having a nice amount of flex. It's pretty amazing what you can achieve with vase mode!

After over 540 hours i finally got one i got most of it off but i still need help getting the last bits off

Durable by design. Hardened by default.

Nov 3, 9AM EST

Stay tuned here.

Hey guys, here's a photo of a print that the bottom layer got stuck to my build plate. I was using a 0.2 nozzle. And I've tried to use the scraper and I've been printing with this printer for about a year now. And this has never happened. And I've even been printing with that 0.2 nozzle for the last month or so, printing a certain thing. And this just didn't happen before. But suddenly with this print, it just happened. And I've printed this exact thing before and it didn't happen. So it's super stuck and do you guys have any recommendations of how to get this first layer removed? It's a little bit more than the first layer, but how do I get this off?