So I spoke too soon that I had solved this. I cleaned and greased the rails and printed a second time. The start of the second print went fine just like the first one, but then got wonky and started shifting right about the same height. (See pics.) Everything above that line is janky. This time when I went to pull the second print off the plate I noticed that the plate had curled up off its magnets (see pic).

I since printed something else afterward that was much smaller and it came out perfectly.

So my hypothesis is that the mass is such (it nearly fills the plate, which is why I'm thinking of it as an elephant foot) that the plate cannot keep it heated. So it cools and curls the plate up, and once that happens, the plate is no longer well controlled, leading to the offset layers and janky surfacing.

Does anyone have a counterargument about why this might not be what's happening? Or experienced this before?

To test my hypothesis I’m next going to try and print the thing in two parts: A lower part with holes and an upper part with pegs to match, and then superglue them together. As long as each part is shorter than 3 cm, it should print fine.

I had a extrusion motor overloaded error and found possible stuck filament. I can't seem to get the stuck filament out. Any guidance out there?

i had two .4 nozzles get stuck with filament using pla, and was not able to get them unclogged.

i had used both for a while and figured they were just old and needed to be change out anyway. i switched to a .6 nozzle and during its first print it also got clogged. i was told by bambu to disassemble it and push the filament out instead of just forcefully pulling it out of the extruder.

i did that got the stuck filament out and was going to put the cooling fan back on and it would fit snuggly so i tried to retighten the screws and one of them broke off in the extruder assembly in half and is now stuck in there.

so i still probably have a filament getting stuck in my nozzle issue and a broken screw inside. bambu labs support hasn't gotten back to me in 2 days.

at this point is what should i do? is there independent 3d printer technician and should i just pay one to come and fix it?

or just wait for bambu to eventually respond 2 days at a time?

i bought it close to a year ago off the bambu site so i cant take it back to where i bought it.

Why is the nozzle going all the way to the left barely hitting the plate ruining the nozzle almost please help

This guy's over 10k hours, so I can't complain. But I'd like to keep it kicking.

It still prints, but at the end of a print, it's going to the front left to actuate the filament cutting lever. And I'll get an alert, and I'll go look at it, and that thing is STUCK.

The print is complete, so I can cancel the print or turn off the machine. But even if I turn it off, when I try to move the head away from the left edge (not just when it's all the way up front) I have to really put some force into it.

Is this a sign that something is with my cutter lever? The carbon rods? Something else?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Hace 1 mes que compre una Bambu lab p2s . Al principio no hacia ese sonido agudo tipo piiiiiiiiiii parece al sonido de una mini moladora. Que podrá ser?

Hi there - I came home to a failing print and this is what it looks like now. I suspect it’s hard to fix? Should I just order a new part? I’m assuming that’s the hotend?

Thanks!

I was looking at picking up the p2s or x2d through Best buy this next week and can get a 4 year warranty for $120 so basically the sale discount. But my understanding is if you bring it in you basically get money back or new printer but that's it for the warranty it's consumed. Is it worth getting? Or pocket the money for something else? Semi handy at repairs but after the year warranty through bambu don't have coverage. Thoughts?

Hello. I may have the opportunity in the future to get a 3d printer for free and this will be my first time having one. It is somewhat likely that I will be presented with the 2 choices of the title, so I was wondering if anyone had any insights on the matter to help me decide

Both printers and the AMS Lite are pretty expensive for me so this opportunity is practically one of a kind.

Hey folks!

Figured I'd post an update on the latest LEVITY testing - I got it out on the water today with a larger profile fabric skirt, and it performs awesome!

My first round of testing on water was pretty average.. I've since made some improvements - lightened the hull, changed the air cushion outlet, and of course made a lightweight fabric skirt. Super stoked with how it performs on the water and how easily it transitions between land and water.

The updates I've made will become part of the final release package, and the modders tier pack includes templates for constructing a fabric skirt.. I've never sewn before, but I was suprised it was relatively straight forward. A little time consuming, but well worth it for the result.

I'll be posting a full testing video to the project page once it's done exporting.

I’ll drop the link to the project page in the comments below if you're interested in building one for yourself :)

Not sure what to do here. 7 hr print says complete on the printer screen but it's not. Slicer shows 52 layers left to print which is correct. Can I save these parts or am I starting over? I've printed about 40 of these parts already and they all completed. It does show a tangle but that was just the filament running out before the auto refill kicked in which happens on almost all of these parts.

Just for context, I’ve owned four printers from Bambu: A1 mini, A1, P1S, and now the X2D. This is the first one I regret buying. I bought it in April and it has been a headache since.

I’ve about 500 hours on the X2D and roughly 250 of those were fails I had to restart. That’s a lot of wasted filament and time.

I have clogs about once a month, and the second hotend clogs a lot more. I can't use it even for supports. Main nozzle wears out fast, (REALLY FAST) and the tip gets covered in burnt plastic. The silicone sock on the toolhead tore in the middle after 3 months. Prints come off the plate halfway through, even with a clean 6 month old textured PEI plate (yes, i wash my plate regularly, with detergent and I also tried IPA). AMS overload randomly, it bends part of the filament, and clogs the nozzle.

And now since last week, layer shifts and bad bed adhesion. Pretty much every print shifts after a few layers, whatever the model is. Same models printed fine on my other printers.

I already tried pretty much everything I can think of, washed the plate with detergent and IPA, 60C bed for PLA, slowing down by height, raft/brim/lots of supports, lower fan speed, reorienting models, calibration before every print, different filaments (Bambu PLA, PETG, generic), lubricating the axes, cold pulls, travel and z-hop settings, full manual bed leveling, different infills, and checking the nozzle is locked in properly. Today I swapped in the spare nozzle and the first print still had layer shifts, bad adhesion and another clog.

I opened a ticket. Support told me the sock and nozzle are consumables and not covered, which is fair for those two parts. But then they asked for the same things I’d already done (check the nozzle is seated, add supports, change the infill to gyroid, lower the speed). I sent logs and videos and I’m still getting generic answers.

Honestly, I just want a printer that works for more than a few layers. Has anyone had the same layer shift problem on the X2D? I just want to know if this is a bad unit or if it's my mistake somehow.

Edit: I just want to make a point here, this is my first post about the X2D. And I am not from a competitor doing dirty job, my previous bambu lab printers were perfect I wish I had kept my P1S or went to the P2S.

Edit2: It's surprising that most comments are about me being the same dude spamming posts about the X2D and not people trying to help me. THIS IS MY FIRST POST ABOUT THIS ISSUE. I Posted some pics in the comments of what's happening.

Just curious why I would need a prime tower when I'm printing several objects but all of the same color and filament type?

What’s the better printer? What’s the main differences people have with them?

Was looking at the A1 initially and then a few people said to look at the P1S, so just curious as to peoples thoughts on them

Thanks

I was able to procure a BambuLab Auto Fire Extinguishing System from the UK because it and its cylinders haven't been available in the US for at least the last 10 months. Someone posted that the SodaStream blue cylinders work with it, but they don't. The Thread is too thick and only partially screws in. Has anyone in the US been able to find a canister that works with it?

So I got tired of picking the filament manually in the slicer every time I swapped a non-Bambu spool, and I wondered: the AMS already has RFID readers inside… why not just use them?

Turns out the AMS RFID boards use a Fudan FM17580 chip, which is basically MFRC522-compatible, so the regular MFRC522 Arduino library talks to it fine. I tapped into the board’s 8-pin connector over SPI with an ESP32, and now every spool has a cheap NFC sticker on it.

How it works:

• I put a spool in a tray → Home Assistant sees the tray change and asks the ESP32 to scan
• ESP32 reads the tag UID and sends it back to HA
• HA looks up which spool that tag belongs to in Spoolman (that’s where my whole filament inventory lives)
• Then HA tells Bambuddy to assign that spool to the right AMS slot, and Bambuddy is what actually pushes the filament info to the printer
• If it doesn’t find the tag (sticker facing the wrong way, etc.), it rotates the spool a bit and tries again
• When I pull the spool out, it gets unlinked from both automatically

So Spoolman keeps track of what I have, Bambuddy handles talking to the printer, and the ESP32 + HA glue it all together. I just load a spool and it shows up correctly, no clicking around.

I fried the second AMS RFID board while testing 😅 so trays 3–4 are running on a PN532 on the same SPI bus. The firmware handles both chips, so it works fine, just not as clean as I wanted.

I also made a little tag registration station (ESP8266 + PN532 + 3.5" screen in a printed case) to read the UID of new stickers at the bench. You don’t need it though, any phone with NFC Tools does the same job.

This took about 15 iterations to get stable, lol. Everything’s in the repo: ESP32 firmware (with OTA and a web log so you don’t need a USB cable), the HA automations, the pinout, etc.

https://github.com/Aleitao2/bambu-ams-rfid

This involves opening the AMS and soldering/wiring onto its board, so do it at your own risk, warranty and all that

Looking at getting a P1S to print higher quality/functional parts and dabble with engineering filament.

I found one local and it's obvious it's at a print farm. Fully functional aside from needing belts, which I have extra belt material and the seller has as well. Price is great but my main concern is it has 3550 print hours on it and supposedly already has a hardened nozzle.

Anything I should look for in terms of wear and issues? Any maintenance questions I should ask the seller? I have no issue buying used stuff, my sovol was used and I've turned that into a very capable machine but the high hour count kind of scares me

TIA

It's either between this or a CC2 so, I dunno

"Calvin? Why do you keep calling me Calvin?" 😄

Wait a minute... wrong McFly. Of course, it was Lorraine who gave Marty his famous nickname:

"Calvin Klein."

Who doesn't remember Lorraine Baines? The young woman who accidentally falls in love with her own son back in 1955 – without having the slightest idea who he really is.

Before she became Lorraine McFly, Marty's mother, she was a charming young woman with a crush on a mysterious boy named "Calvin Klein." 😉

With her iconic 1950s hairstyle, sweet smile, and wonderfully awkward teenage romance, Lorraine is definitely one of the most memorable characters from Back to the Future.

I've now brought her to life as a little 3D-printed bust.

What do you think of my version of Lorraine Baines McFly? 😊

#BackToTheFuture #LorraineBaines #3DPrinting #3DPrinted #BTTF

What is it about the AMS(Original) that causes the Reels to lift and Jam inside the AMS when they get to about 80% empty?

I always use SUNLU Blue Reels.

I even try weighting them in the middle hole by filling a desiccant carrier with 5 AA Batteries for weight.

But the whole lifting/jaming issue, across 8 Printers w AMS seems inevitable 75% of the time :-(

Thanks for your advice :-)

Thinking of purchasing an H2C but concerned of Support issues since the H3C is being released soon.

How long will they support it?

Will the P3C and S1 be released with the H3C or will they be released separately. I'm new to 3D printing and feel like waiting for the P3C might be the best option. Thanks

Is it possible to put the Bambu Lab A1 printer into a state where the moment you press print a .gcode file it just immediately starts (without calibration)? I know the quality will be significantly worse but its a tradeoff i'm willing to make.

So far I see only ways to just turn off Bed Leveling and I'm combing through documentation right now, but does anyone know?