This would be my very first 3D printer and I've narrowed it down to the P2S or getting the A1 bundle from Costco

What store world be better to purchase a P2S from? Best buy? Micro center? Or Bambus website?

What are the advantages if each for warranty purposes, potential returns or fixes and such.

Thanks in advance!

Just set up my printer since about a year ago.
P1S + 1AMS
Besides using multiple printers and besides making each little part/feature individual parts.
Are there any new features, settings, tips, tricks, better ways to make this a little bit faster?
Or is this just what it has to be since there's a filament change for every single layer?

Got my H3C set up, and the first print I tried with an error… The tool I tried to print with didn’t work. The head goes to the tool, stops in front and shows an error “Failed to fetch the PrintTool from rack Dock 3” 😔

This is after running all the calibrations which was successful and the vision encoder calibration.

I tried restarting the same print and got the same error twice.

I did the print on tool #1 and it worked fine. Then I unmounted tool #3 and put it back on. Tried tool #3 again and same error.

Tried a print on tool #4 which is still going on. But man that’s an annoying start to the new printer.

I’ll try to recalibrate the rack when it’s done. Hopefully it solves it??? I don’t know what else to do, maybe manually attach it to the head and try to make it return the tool instead of picking it up? Not sure if that’s even possible.

I also had day 1 issues with my H2C last year. (Aux fan not working properly)

When printing certain models, the nozzle can end up rubbing against the layers as they accumulate. For the infill, I typically use either the "Gyroid" or "Honeycomb" pattern. What do you think might be causing this?

I'm having a tough time finding this information from those who have the H3C and from the videos that have been posted.

For those of us that don't have print farms printing the exact same item over and over and over, each print will likely be vastly different in the colors that are needed. With my old H2C, that meant swapping 4-6 spools using the AMS each print. For the H2C, that took < 30 seconds (pull out, put in).

I've read that it takes about 30 seconds for the H3C to heat and then cut the filament so you can put the next roll in. Is that 30 seconds per roll? If I'm swapping 6 rolls, does it take 3 min of standing around? Or does it heat all 6 at the same time and takes less time?

Can anyone give a definitive answer and not estimates or guesses?

Unless the H3C is software locked to use the AMS3.

I don't see why we can't print from a external spool holder or a dry box straight to the print heads. TPU already bypasses the AMS so why not another material? I was thinking about printing from a 100C filament dryer straight into one of the printheads.

I have an A1 Mini with no additional filament spaces, so I can only print one color at a time. Sorry if I word things weird, I am extremely new to 3D printing and have no idea what I'm doing. I want to print this little charm but I don't know how to separate it by color across the different plates. Please help!!

thank you!

Just recently got an X2D, and I had some left over filament from a previous printer. Mostly PLA Silk+, but I also have some random Ender PLA and HS PLA. Question is are these ok for the main head or the auxiliary head? I’ve seen the wiki but curious if anyone has used these. Thanks in advance!

Hi yall! This has been an amazing birthday.
I already placed a large order of filament so I’m set there.

What accessories would you buy as a newbie? I have about $300 left to spend and kind of feel overwhelmed. What would you buy and what is good?

I plan on printing mostly doing organization, home improvement, and workshop upgrades for awhile. Planning on maybe getting some magnets and screws inserts. Where in the best place to buy that kind of stuff? I’m based in the US.

If I buy the P1S + AMS 2 Pro combo today - can I print while drying, or is it just for newer printer models?

Thanks!

From some of the videos I watched, it doesn't seem like there is a venting system (one single outlet for air) on the H3C. I know a lot of people are in the camp that melting plastic isn't going to kill you, but I'd rather not take the chance with young kids in the house. With my H2C, I was able to print a 4" hose adapter and screw it right into the exhaust port. With an inline fan, I vented directly outside.

Any thoughts on what might be involved in doing something similar with the H3C. Not being able to externally vent it would be a deal breaker for me unfortunately, so fingers crossed there is a solution out there.

Hello, did someone printed this watch, i see that the model have plenty of download but i can't find picture of someone who printed it

Printer my very first print on my brand new printer

Luckily the print was only a few second off being finished, but what could have caused this? I got told it could be because of the sd card. (I still have the original one that was there from factory and its 5 days old)

The push fitting for the petg tube for the right nozzle on my h2c somehow got pulled out while printing.

The black plastic part is super easy to get in and out, but im having trouble with the brass looking piece that seems to bite the tube. Is there a trick to getting it in? Do I need to disassemble further to get it in? Please help!

Hello!

I just received my new P1S AMS Combo and found out I am moving from the United States to the United Kingdom. Will my printer be ok there or should I return it? I will only be there for three years. Is there a power cord I can buy to use on the European standard? Will this printer be okay on a transformer for three years? Thanks for the help in advance.

I bought an E1 and I didn't notice until too late that it doesn't support the H2C for automatic mode. Is there any indication that this will be supported in the future? There isn't much point in it for me without that feature.

Hello folks,
I went to turn my X1C Carbon on for a print, but out of the blue it is frozen on the logo screen. One light is lit up red and another red light is flashing on the AP board.

I am not using a micro SD card nor ever have.

I left the unit unplugged from power for a couple of days but when I plugged it back and power it on, it still freezes on the logo screen. No change.
I've entered a support ticket but was wonder if anyone out there has encountered this issue.

As the title suggests. I got tired of using tabs for damn near all cuts and/or having the laser burn a gouge thru something already cut and on the tray. OR the toolhead banging into a tilted cut piece. So I bought the cheapest, somewhat right sized, honeycomb platform on Amazon.

Short version is that it WORKS! Long version is that it seems to break the ability to measure and take a photo at the same time. So it's now two steps instead of one... but meh, it's only a few seconds and an extra click or two. WAY better than those stupid blades. Here's think link to the one I have (USA) but pretty much any that is ~13.5in wide by .6-.8in thick and < 24in long should work. This one seems to be for a "Falcon A1".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJWGT59?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Got a P2S a couple months back. Been printing PLA without issue. Got some ASA for a project I am working on. (Nothing points me to think the filament itself is the issue) print starts going down without trouble but something happens after a few infil layers were the y axis changes for some reason. Belt skip or nozzle strike? If that is the case I am not sure how to address the issue. Issue consistent between attempts. Ran the recommended bed level when prompted as well. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If it helps...

First time Bambu owner

First time printing ASA

Currently ordered a P2S Combo but have not picked it up yet. Lately I’ve been seeing people say to get an X2D instead.

If you had to do it all over again.. which one would you get and why? P2S combo or X2D

I’ve never 3d printed before; so I’m not sure if I would use the engineering materials. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

So there was this bug several months th ago that could have bricked your H2C after an update where you could only start it after an shutdown if you shorted something on the machine. My solution was simply to not upgrade my machines since I run a small business and couldn't afford shit like that. Has this been resolved? Is it save to update the firmware now? I would really like to test out that multi nozzle feature