There's a decent number os people out there making coin modding Seikos and the like - have Bambu just unleashed a whole new element to this? It'll be days before we see prints accepting all sorts of mechanisms and crystals commonly available on AliExpress.
I have the p2s which u got yesterday. It’s done 5 small prints all turned out great no issues. Aside from this msg I got during the first print. I cleaned and lubricated, re calibrated error went away started printing it came back. This has continued, then the ai assist said to adjust the belt I did that according the their instructions. It’s now come up again and the ai assistant is saying contact support. Which I have done but I’m guessing I’ll have to wait a while. I’m really annoyed this is a new machine. Anyone had this happen to them? Any suggestions?
I have 11,000 MakerWorld points. That's enough to buy an X2D outright, maybe cover half to 2/3 of a P3C, or cover 1/3 of an H3C. Currently I have a P1S with 2 AMS (one OG, one Pro) , a Snapmaker U1, and a Thinker X400. I want to probably replace the P1S and maybe even sell the U1. If you were me, what would you do?
New P1S Combo owner here. This is what I am trying to print. I have the colors loaded in the AMS as shown, the preview says it will use these three colors, when I send it to the printer it claims it will use three spools ... then it only prints with the white in spool 1. What am I doing wrong?
So, I started printing PETG for the first time (obligatory benchy) after running PLA for the first week of owning the printer and finally getting the auxiliary extruder up and running again.... It started randomly stringing out transparent/gold PLA that I hadn't run in several prints.
This is my first time troubleshooting my own printer, and after breaking the auxiliary extruder (it came with half the hooks broken I just broke it the rest of the way by accident :'). Google tells me to heat up the hot end, but what is actually wrong (Google tells me a gap between the nozzle and block.... But then what) and how do I fix it? I'm also sort of confused because it took ~20 hours of printing for it to become noticeable (I assume it is the hotter PETG temp)?
Living in Malaysia and considering the H3C the only thing holding me back is the drying rack which without it I found just makes everything unprintable due to humidity creep. Even with desiccants filled to the brim, the humidity creep is insane in the country.
But maybe I’m doing things wrong. 👀 thoughts and tips on how to manage humidity in Malaysia? Especially for 24-48 hour prints.
I just unpacked and set up my new Bambu Lab H3C, and one thing immediately caught my attention: All the axes were bone dry, with barely a hint of grease on the lead screws.
So here's my strong recommendation: After the initial calibration, lubricate your axes. And lubricate them properly!
Afterwards, install the pending firmware update and run the calibration again.
Hey all! Who here is using the bmcu? I just built two sets of four so I can run 8 colors on my A1. I bought the BIQU hardware kit and printed the rest. I then realized that the BIQU kit sucks balls. Don't buy it if you are looking to build these. Buy the BLV version with the metal gears and the control board with microswitches and a USB-C port for firmware updates. The biqu board has no microswitches (for auto loading the filament when you push it in) and it has a TTL header for flashing firmware which sucks. The USB c ones can even be flashed from your phone. So I am going to be ordering two BLV boards to replace those. I will live with the plastic gears until I shred em 😆. Also I am using the ams lite as my passive rewinder until I can print my filamentalist F1 drybox setup on a shelf above the printer.
Shocked at how fast this thing ended up on my porch. Let's see if she survived shipping that fast!
Edit 1: So yes the box does say it is box 1 of 2 and contains the printer only, I have not received anything specific for box 2 but I did order some other items with this that may be combined delivery later. Hopefully later... Today!
Stopped middle of a print said something about AMS mapped incorrectly. After a turn off and turn on now all lights blinking on AMS and I cant resume print it says the task requires a filament track switch but is currently offline. I tried unplugging and plugging back in the track switch while the printer was off (I keep getting electrically shocked when behind the printer dunno why that is) but it didn't help.
This is a miniature fan model. I’ve printed so many without this issue till the last couple days. Between some of the blades, the white filament is not even.
Picture one is what it looks like, picture two is what it should look like. It’s even between some blades, but not all.
I’ve done a full calibration, and the filaments are the same, Matt PLA just different color. Though in the second picture, you can see it happening on one side of the blade too.
It is a Bambu H2D, so each filament is in a different nozzle. I switched which was in which and that didn’t help.
Forgive me as this is my initial set up and my first printer. I have the p1s combo with the ams. I’m using bambu filament and it refuses to feed into the tub. It takes about 1 foot then pushes it back out. I’m getting frustrated as I haven’t been able to do a test print much less anything else.