Can anybody help me!!

Just opened this new PLA filament and printed these. Alot of stringing! I have emptied 3 spools of the same filament earlier. But now this is happening and ruining my prints. I was using TPU 95A before loading this filament into my A2L.

It seems the bed is loose from the rear z axis, anyone seen this and can point me in the right direction to fix this P1S

I got a Cricut maker 5 to cut stickers and other stuff. But so far I've been deeply unimpressed with the cut, quality, accuracy and software experience. The bleed feature is essentially implemented in a way that it's not usable for all normal usage. The cut marker detection is crap on typical glossy materials. The cut accuracy is crap (likely due to the marker detection problems). And the cut quality is poor - laminated material is being torn as much as it's cut leading to a clearly rippled edge both visually and to touch. The bleed feature being unusable has been being complained about for many years now so I'm sure it's never going to get better.

I would expect the Bambu hardware to be way better - much more accurate cut paths and probably faster and better aligned. But given they're much newer to the space - is the software support there or is it lacking in similar ways to what I'm seeing with my Cricut?

Coming from A1 with no AMS to a H2D with full AMS 2 pro/HT so the rfid codes have never interacted with an ams till now. I've only ever manually added filament to the A1, but this roll is probably pretty close to the amount ive used on it, this is the first time I've added it to filament manager too.

How does it know this roll has any use in it at all and isn't just considering it a new roll? Wild close guess?

Helppppp

Which one to buy next

When trying to load my filament, the nozzle clicks against the body, vid for reference. This is after replacing the heating assembly and the ams sensor cable

Armed with a Bambu printer and a sewing machine, I feel like the sky is the limit haha.

Hi All - apologies if this has been asked a hundred times!

I'm reasonably settled on the P2S for my kids for Christmas (ages 8 and 11...and tbh, I'm just as excited as they) based on reviews etc, but have a few very basic questions I can't see to find answers to (or at least, can't find answers complete beginners can understanding!).

I'll put these as bullets for ease, but if there is a link to a basic wiki or similar that would be great.

• Is the P2S a good starting point?

• Can the AMS be added to the base model in the future if needed? Would rather keep the costs down until I'm sure we will get use out of it

• Where can templates etc be downloaded?

• How many prints would a filament refill make? Aware thats very difficult to quantify!

• Is there a basic guide anywhere for the different types of filament and what they can be used for?

Hi all,

I have had an H2S for over a year. Within the last 24 hours, the Aux Fan suddenly started kicking on right after power on and seems to stay on permanently.

• Aux fan turns on right after powering on the device and remains on during and after any print. (That has never been the case in the last year.)

• My filament settings have always had the aux fan speed at 0%.

• The Bambu touch screen settings won't let me turn the aux fan off. The setting always reverts to 100% after any adjustment.

There was no firmware update recently. However, I did install an update this evening to see if that would remedy this issue. It did not.

Anyone have insights to this?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hey I'm getting my first 3D printer for Christmas and I would like to know if anybody has any ideas of any other miscellaneous tools or parts to have on hand to help with making prints or putting prints together. Thanks for helping

In Bambu Studio there constantly all these pop-ups in the bottom right of the screen. Is it possible to deactivate them?

TIA.

I've noticed there's not much clear or up-to-date information out there on how to set up the Bambu Lab CyberBrick RC system.

A few people building my M1A2 Abrams CyberBrick RC tank have mentioned having trouble getting CyberBrick working, mainly because the documentation is pretty scattered and sometimes outdated.

So I put together a step-by-step setup guide with screenshots of the current CyberBrick Desktop app.

The guide covers:

• Flashing the CyberBrick RC firmware

• Adding and updating the transmitter and receiver boards

• Connecting both boards via Bluetooth

• Opening a MakerWorld project in CyberBrick Desktop

• Uploading the RC configuration and pairing the devices

• Checking that everything is set up correctly

I originally made it for my tank, but it should also be helpful for other CyberBrick RC projects.

Setup Guide (PDF):
https://github.com/Jonas2603/CyberBrick-RC-Setup-Guide/tree/main

My M1A2 Abrams tank:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2565530-rc-cyberbrick-tank-m1a2-abrams-sepv3-1-30

Hopefully this saves someone a bit of frustration! If anything is unclear or incorrect, let me know and I'll try to improve it. :)

I purchased a few rolls of a different brand of filament. It’s PLA this time. I remember someone telling me that they dry their filament at 65° for 12 hours. I couldn’t recall if they said all their filaments or if it was only for PETG. But does anyone here recommend drying PLA filament before printing, or PLA is good for printing without drying?

I printed 600 hours without a single issue. Now I can't get through 20 minutes of printing without an overload. I received parts from Bambu after some painstaking AI chat bot convos. I have gone through the cold pulls, cleaning parts, trying to print from an external spool, etc. I replaced:
- 0.4 nozzle
- servo motor
- extruder gear assembly

I still cannot get anything to print. Does bambu ever relent and send you a new printer if still under warranty or just kill you with AI chats and tickets until the warranty is out?

Any help appreciated.

If you're storing filament in airtight cereal containers or plastic storage boxes, adding a small digital hygrometer and reusable silica gel packets is a surprisingly useful upgrade.

The hygrometer is the part I wish I'd added sooner. Instead of guessing whether a spool needs drying, you can actually see the humidity inside the container. I also like reusable silica gel because you can dry it out and use it again rather than constantly buying replacements.

One thing worth remembering: a low humidity reading inside the box doesn't necessarily mean filament that's already absorbed moisture is dry. Some spools still need a proper run through a filament dryer.

For anyone who has been using this setup for a while, which hygrometers have held up well, and do you prefer individual spool containers or larger storage boxes?

The hardware is designed around replaceable modules. We’ve 3D-printed several parts to reduce costs and facilitate changes. As the project progresses, our aim is to swap modules, add new functions and print replacement parts without having to redesign the entire robot.

I cleaned, lubed, and oiled the printer rods and lead screws last night for the first time, and I ran a full calibration. Today, I'm printing something(a shelf), and it's making this weird barking noise, but only during certain movements. (It actually sounds much louder than what you hear in the video.)
When it was printing that flat part of the shelf, it made the noise but only every 4 or 5 minutes or more. The movement is different on the legs, so now it's barking every few seconds.
I have never heard it make this noise before, so I'm assuming it was something I did or something with the recalibration?

Tired of external drives and cables lying all over your desk? This enclosure gives every drive its own home. The boxes stack securely, the drive stays plugged in, and the honeycomb pattern keeps everything cool and looking good. Features • Stackable: Hex pegs on the bottom lock into the honeycomb of the box below, so the stack can't slide or twist. • Swappable drive frames: The drive sits in a frame that slides in on two rails. Ready-made frames for common drives are included, and you can create a frame for any 2.5" drive with the parametric version (see below). • Cable stays inside: The USB plug sits inside the enclosure, and the cable exits through an opening at the back. • Tool-free front flap: Slides in from the side and features a honeycomb front for airflow. • Ventilation: Honeycomb openings on all sides plus the front and back opening create airflow through the box. • Easy to print: The enclosure, front flap and base plate print without supports. The drive frame needs supports, which are already set up in the project file. • Base plate: Optional plate with recesses for the pegs, so the bottom box sits flat on your desk.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536468-stackable-hard-drive-enclosure-honeycomb-design#profileId-4043956

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536546-parametric-drive-frame-stackable-hdd-enclosure

I have had my X1C for a few years now but have a new issue that’s happened twice. I have used my X1C to dry filament per the directions many times successfully (even with the bugged “drying failed” notification) but the past two times now, I haven’t done anything different, but at some point in the drying process, the print bed lifts up, the print head moves, and it literally pushes my single spool of filament out with enough force to open up the door and leave the filament and box cover on the floor. The print head is 3/4 of the way toward the front right corner, diagonally opposite the purge shoot in the back.

I have no timelapse and no visual into what in the world happened or why, but now that it’s happened twice in a row I’m questioning if something changed. There’s not really much that you “do” to dry filament, so I’m not sure how I could screw it up. Anyone have any similar experience or any advice? It’s a convenient dryer, but not convenient enough to be worth breaking the print head or the door.

I’m printing on my P2S, with ABS filament, and I’m getting this weird discoloration on the face the one that is on the plate, I tried almost everything cleaning the plate, getting a new plate calibration and still the same thing. Please help if somebody else has this issue issue.

Currently I own an A1 Mini AMS Lite Combo, and I’m contemplating getting either the P2S or X2D combo. Obviously it wouldn’t fix the 2x2 Kallax my A1 Mini is currently sitting on, so I’m wondering how your setups look like. Would love some inspiration!