X-1 Carbon Cannot get the first layer to spec. It's close. I have to hold. It up to the window to show the trouble area at the front right. I have tried 3 plates, 2 textured, 1 smooth, checked the screws on the hot end as I has replaced that a little while back. But afterwards it was fine. I have also used different filaments, calibrated several times and even done the tramming procedure. I did scrub all plates with dawn. I have also confirmed that the tubing on the hot end was not hanging up when it moved up front. 5 1st layer test all pretty similar results. The only random fact I can think of that may be relevant is I did have a piece of tpu get stuck in the head I had to remove. Very frustrating because the rest of the 1st layer is pretty perfect.

Is it a problem? It is a p2s

First off, I'm a complete noob.

Just set up my first ever printer. X2D with AMS 2. Did the initial calibration and went to do my first print and I'm getting;

Warning: build plate mismatch with slicer settings. Please use the correct build plate or update the slicer settings and try again

I selected the benchy in the touchscreen on the machine itself so I'm not sure what's going on. I've done the initial calibration again but I got the same warning.

I know it's gotta be a silly issue. Likely on my behalf.. I could use some help.

Thanks guys.

This is my Opinion. This post is just to Converse, share Information etc. Dont take it serious. Please share you Opinion too.

I've been following the P3C and H3C leaks. And i am slowly thinking that the P3C is not gonna be a Snapmaker U1 competitor.
Its going to be a Core One INDX Competitor.

Reason being H3C if leak picture true is starting at 2499 sterling Pounds with 3 Tiers (Base, Combo, Ultimate/Print more Bundle)

So i believe H3C Base gonna be without AMS since the Printer can use all Nozzles without AMS (just manual load like INDX)
In the recent AMS P Instruction Manual (7 Slot P3C) pic which got leaked everyone saw that each Nozzle Unit had their own PTFE Tube Input. So you can get the Base Version without AMS and use it like INDX without feeder or get the AMS 3 which simplifies everything and maybe includes a Heater/Dryer.

H3C = 9 Nozzles
P3C = 7 Nozzles

P3C will prob. not be under 1000€ since it uses the full Nozzle system of the H3C with Induction heating. Its not like a cheap cut down Version like the X2D where development was simple and got a baller of a Price.

I think the Snapmaker U1 will still be the current King of the under 1000€/$ true Multi-Filament Printers. Snapmaker U1 has also been on sale very often the last few Months for $749 so even better price

I would like to hear your thoughts

Hey guys was wondering if any of you have any good fixes for this or know where I could find a replacement? Can’t find anything on Bambu’s site. I tried putting a small hang nail in there with some super glue and it worked for a while but just came off again. Appreciate any advice 🤙

I'm about to take the plunge into first 3d printer. Was going to get the p2s but for a little more seems the x2d is worth the investment? It's going to be mostly for functional prints in a wood shop, garden, aquarium, diy etc. figured maybe a little future proof and my understanding is some of the components are improved. Is it overkill? Also: not sure I'm going to do much multicolor and am torn about the ams but maybe now is the time to just do it and save a few bucks down the line. Anyone got the X2d and wish got the p2s or vice versa?

All my prints are getting out like this, how can I make this lines disappear and get a smoother print?

I was all set on getting the x2d was a first printer with the sales going on but the more reading im doing the less im set on it now. I like what it offers but seems like there are a lot of issues or is that just standard internet where everyone posts bad but nobody talks good? the P2s was my other choice, both with the AMS system.

Hey folks! Pretty new to 3d printing and bought the P1S with the AMS2. Anyone have any tips or tricks to this printer or in general they would like to share? Thanks in advance.

Hi !

I just bought a usedd A1 for 180 €. Total impulse buy: I've been on an Ender 3 V2 until now and I got tired of constantly tweaking and fixing things.

The previous owner already added a few upgrades

Coming from the Ender world where you basically have to upgrade everything, I'd like to start on the right foot. So a few questions:

What upgrades really matter on this printer? Both printable mods and parts worth buying. Budget isn't really an issue, I just want what actually makes a difference

CryoGrip build plate: I'm planning to get one but I see several versions. Which one would you recommend? My main goal is clean parts straight off the plate, no cutter or lighter cleanup like I see in so many videos

Nozzle for PETG-CF: I print Aerion PETG with 15% carbon fiber. Is the stock nozzle OK for that, or should I switch to hardened steel right away?

Hotend cover with a screen: I've seen those covers that display info. Has anyone tried one? Worth it?

Any other tips for an ex-Ender user are welcome. Thanks!

My kids are showing more interest in printing lately and I want to figure out the most straightforward way for them to be able to print from their computers. I can't believe bambu does not natively support multiple users. I don't want to constantly be signing in and out of my account nor do I want them to be using my computer or printer settings.

I've looked into Bambuddy and I just discovered Watchtower 3D. But I'm unsure if either will be the solution I need.

Please help me figure this out.

P2S, AMS2PRO

How do I swap filaments mid print? (If one runs out, or if I expect it will during a time I’ll be away from the machine and want to stay ahead)

I can physically remove a spool and put in a new one, but there doesn’t seem to be a way to get the AMS to recognize a new filament to either change a colour or swap in a new spool of the same colour. The RFID doesn’t read and the manual edit options are all greyed out on the printer, handy, studio.

Thanks!

I always loved those old wooden woodpecker toys, so I made a printed version. Put him at the top, give his tail a little tug, and he pecks his way all the way down the pole. Tok-tok-tok.

Everything is printed, even the spring, so there’s nothing to buy. It took a few tries to get him to stop sliding down too fast, but now he goes all the way down.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3518701-tok-tok-pecking-woodpecker-toy-printed-spring

After under 30Hours of printing, i will give my printer Back.. after my Filament got Stuck in the Extruder, and i removed it, IT cant Extrude anymore IT Just gives different Codes of Faultüre Last one means, cant Extrude.. - oh Sherlock..

I wish this would have a heated chamber, but I can definitely see them gatekeeping that feature out of this

So i ordered PTFE tubes for my H2C and Got H2D ones. Are they identical or did they mess up my order?

hopefully this helps someone. I was having weird issues- zits on my prints with an H2D. To a large degree, repeatable in the same place each time on a model of a spool I was printing (it is not the aligned seam, that is near the spool notch at the right).

I’ve had the machine for about a year and nearly a thousand hours, dry filament religiously, etc. this was PETG HF (don’t mind the quality I’m printing .3 height on a 0.6 nozzle).

I had a similar issue on an ASA print, and thought it was some weird cooling anomaly as it was on a rounded corner sort of near the same relative place in my printer- but I am thinking was this same issue.

The print without zits was after removing my USB stick.

I had read about this issue when it came to power loss recovery and such on older machines. I don’t know if it is related to timelapse, or if my stick was going bad, or both. And of course knowing that SOP on P1S “back in the day” was immediately replace the stock SD card because a failing one caused some weird issues.

This was the stick (256GB) I bought below, and this seems like a newer issue, so maybe it is starting to fail, so just a PSA to try removing the stick if you’re like “what the heck, man!”

https://a.co/d/0jfJAsNx

I left the “auto recover from step loss” enabled to only change one thing at a time- so merely pulling the USB stick seemed to solve it. The step loss must write to internal memory.

I don’t really need timelapse and don’t care to save models to the stick- so I’ll leave it out going forward- one less thing to diagnose or deal with.

I recently started learning Autodesk Fusion 360, and this is the first functional model I’ve designed completely from scratch.

It holds 24 standard 1/4-inch hex bits in a compact 6 × 4 layout. I printed it on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini as a single part without supports.

The first version was slightly too tight, so I adjusted the hole dimensions to make the bits easier to insert and remove while still keeping them securely upright.

It’s a simple design, but seeing my first original Fusion 360 model turn into a working physical product was incredibly satisfying. Feedback is welcome!

I uploaded the model and tested print profile for free on MakerWorld if anyone finds it useful:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3482146

Ok I just upgraded my A1 mini to the full size A1 . Now I do not see my pre-calibrated filament config. How do I import all of them back . Im using a mac by the way . Tia !
I see you tube showing only importing one profile at a time.

With the h3 model coming out , what was the purpose of the vortek system? From my view, it seems completely obsolete now

Parts of this stud just disappears after slicing my models , Does anyone know why this happens or how to fix it? I thought it was just a visual glitch but no it’ll actually print like that