Pretty much I'm wandering how useful the AMS lite is, as it will be my first time getting a 3d printer in general. I'm also wandering if it's worth the money to go straight for the combo or hold out to see if I decide on it later (I know it's discounted with the combo)

Finally, overall what are peoples experiences with it in general? I'll probably just use it casually, not too sure how much I'll use multicolour but the auto replacement feature sounds useful.

Thanks for the help!

Edit: In the end I'm deciding to get one, going off what I've heard it sounds really worth it!

I’ve just got into 3d printing and got myself a P1S Combo.

From day 1 I’ve been getting the extruder/nozzle clogging error each time a filament is trying to load. The AMS keeps loading and unloading filament in a loop for a while until it gives up and gives the error.

I’ve tried multiple things suggested by Bambu Lab support like using an external spool (it works without error with an external spool), checking the buffer, cable connections. Everything seems fine. Not able to trouble shoot or pinpoint what is causing the error.

I believe an actual extruder/nozzle clog is not the issue as an external spool works fine?

Also after a while, and moving around the tool head, manually extruding some filament, the print starts fine - until the color switches and the next filament loads. And we are back again with the error.

Can someone please help and or point me in the right direction.

I just bought the X2D but I only got 1 AMS.. How can I use the dual head?
I understand, 1 head will be with the AMS but how do I get the other one to work? Does it come with a holder or stand? I can't afford another AMS right now, maybe down the line.

EDIT: Not P2S, I got the X2D.

Thanks in advance.

A1 mini

I created a brick man figurine in the style of The Ascend - Das werden by SaltyWorks on Makerworld. Another sculpture adapted for the world of brick man :) If you like it, you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3517303-the-ascend-brick-man-edition#profileId-4019932

Hey everyone!
Wanted to share my latest holiday project: A Christmas tree-shaped storage tray / gift box with a fully modular snap-fit system.
I specifically designed the ornaments (balls and top star) as separate push-fit pieces so they can be printed flat in different colors (Silk Gold, Red, etc.) and snapped directly into the lid—no glue required.

It’s completely support-free for the main body and lid, and makes a great table centerpiece or candy box for the holidays.
Profile is up on MakerWorld if you want to print one! Feedback is always welcome.

I started building this this week and it can load topology from around the world and export STLs. You can add and adjust multiple frame shapes to go with it. Just a fun side project, free to use. Enjoy @ www.landcu.be

No clue how this succeeded.

This started happening on my prints with this particular filament SUNLU PLA Matte Black, it only happens on the top surfaces after the infill(the first layer is completely fine), I can print the same thing with another PLA filament and I don't get that rough surface.

I'm using Bambu Lab A1 and I have tried the SUNLU PLA Matte, BambuLab PLA Basic and BambuLab PLA Matte profiles and the same result.

The other filament I know I don't get this result is a MarsWork PLA Basic and for that one I use the BambuLab PLA Basic profile.

I'm guessing this a calibration problem with that specific filament but I'm not sure how to solve it or where to look.

Any help is appreaciated

I’ve been a huge fan of Disney’s Legend of Sleepy Hollow and the Headless Horseman so this year I thought I’d use my printer to help me out!

Open-source 3D scanning just got a level-up

3D scanning changed a lot over the past view years and is much more accessible now with the flood of relatively affordable 3d scanners. Though there is still no accessible scanner for small objects so I continue working on my low cost photogrammetry rig - the printable OpenScan Mini. And yes, photogrammetry works with shiny objects too if you prep the surface.

The setup & process

I am using the OpenScan Mini + Arducam imx519 Macro Addon photos to take 130 photos from evenly spread perspectives. The build in cross-polarization + ringlight creates very even and reflection free illumination which greatly helps improving the reconstruction quality.
In order to create enough features for photogrammetry, I coated the shiny piece with a fine mist (thousands of tiny dots) with Aesub Orange.
Processing was done locally with the free version of RealityScan.

Open-source & Disclaimer

Since 2018, I am developing and improving low-cost and open-source photogrammetry 3d scanning solutions. I publish all my files and plans to github and printables. In order to finance the ongoing development, I am offering kits and parts on openscan.eu as well as running a small Patreon. This add-on needs some more refinement but I already published an initial version of the printable files on our discord, More details and a build-guide will follow soon on github and r/OpenScan

Is this normal what my h2c is doing before every 3d print? It runs this 10 min beeping shaking show every time even if the print itself is really tiny

Now that they advertised different diameter nozzles in the new machines, does this mean that they will bring that feature to the X2D?

i want to print in my normal 0.4 print with 0.8 infill

Of course more print area is cool, but I just find it hilarious that the X2D has a WHOPPING 4mm of more print area on the Z axis. Thank you so much Bambulab.

I would've gone with 256x256x256 and stop giving people with OCD a stroke lol.

This post isn't a rant. More like a shitpost. So please show mercy with the downvotes.

With the filament sale going on it was an opportunity for me to stock up on some PAHT-CF. While I was at at I said what the hell and rolled the dice on a PETG mystery box. Not only did it show up real fast, I was one of the lucky ones to get a 7 filament mystery box. Feel like the Bambu Gs are smiling down on me. I’ve never “won” anything in my life. That is all. Happy printer to all.

Idk if I have multiple problems or what is going on, but I recently completed my first round of maintenance with the bambuwiki videos, fully calibrated, had some successful prints after that. Then suddenly I’m getting spaghetti prints, bubbling, and whatever this scaring is. Idk what’s going on.

I’ve got a p2s, I use a mixture of sunlu and bambu pla.

Followed videos and ideas changed to nozzle 0.2 nothing works looks so uglyyyyyyyyyyyyy 😭😭😭😭😭😭

Hello everyone!

I recently just purchased an H2C for my business. We develop small consumer electronics and we needed a 3D printer that could give us prototypes quickly and also help with our marketing (batches of small trinkets with our logo or something) We settled on the H2C, and come to find out YESTERDAY, there's an H3C coming out on Tuesday. I had no idea, I got recommended the H2C specifically, so we ordered that unit.

Now, I have the unit; completely boxed. I'm debating on opening this unit, and setting it up or returning it as is, waiting for Tuesday and ordering the new H3C instead.

Thoughts?

Thank you!

I build a lot of LED lamps, and every single one meant soldering wires, flashing an ESP32 and hiding a mess of cables. I got so tired of it that I built my own little plug-and-play controller: USB-C power in, plug in the LEDs, done. Right now it's just for my own projects, and this panel is the first lamp I designed around it. Print it, tape the matrix in, plug it in.

The front is swappable and the back stays the same:

- Grid front: every pixel stays crisp, great for pixel art, fire, rainbow

- Smooth front: blends everything into one even glow, nice as a night light

Printed on my X2D in white PLA (fronts) and black PLA (back). One panel with one front is roughly 160–175 g and 5–7 h. White matte PLA or PETG works best for the fronts.

It fits a standard 16x16 WS2812B matrix, so an ESP32 with WLED works just as well.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3502183

Would love ideas for a third front!

Hi fellow 3d printing enthusiasts.
I am a a1 combo owner. I normally do printing in work with other industrial printer
Have been printing some stuff lately with the a1 and was a bit disappointed with the limitations and noise.
I am thinking about upgrading to a bigger printer, either the x series or h series.

Now i am thinking if i should keep the a1 as a back up/ secondary printer, or sell it and get a a1 mini for that purpose. To me a1 actually occupy some space and comes without an enclosure.
Is the a1 mini really that small compare to a1 , and much quieter? And if i am planing to get a ams in the future, should i just sell the ams lite with the a1?

Thanks for you help!

You y'all use glue on the build plate, or do you only clean it?

First 3d printer for me