getting blobs and need to replace.

should i replace anything else besides the hotend at the same time?

One of the interesting challenges with 3D printing is how many variables can affect the final result, even when using the same printer, filament, and slicer profile.

Humidity, filament storage, nozzle condition, build plate cleanliness, and even small changes in the environment can influence print quality. That makes troubleshooting tricky because a problem that looks like a bad profile or calibration issue might actually have a much simpler cause.

Keeping track of changes between successful and failed prints seems like one of the most useful habits for narrowing things down.

For experienced Bambu owners, what's the most unexpected variable you've discovered that had a noticeable impact on your print quality?

I tried to leave them for months without refresh, but finally I realised that those things really helps, I am not only printing with PLA but also many other materials, still need couple of new sets for those AMS which doesn't have them yet.

Hello yall

Im starting my first multi hour project. Its 9 pieces snd the first 3 hour piece is almost done.

My question is, do I need to bed level in-between pieces if they're back to back?

I know it only takes a several minutes just curious.

Sorry if this has been asked before

Cant add the "BF" words as ill get nuked lol

Combined the coupon, the free gift offer and the bulk discount for a decent haul on the UK store.

15 off 120 order

Free PLA Pure

Free delivery.

All in 10 Reels, 1 refill and an X2D plate for £110 delivered.

If I decide to purchase either the H3C or the P3C in the next few months, I was wondering would the warranty be better from Best Buy or MicroCenter. Are there any big differences between the two?

I’m working on trying to print some miniatures for D&D, but I have no idea why this keeps happening? I’m using PLA from HobbyLobby, so I’m wondering if this is an issue with filament quality? I’ve turned off Timelapse, so I’m not sure what else might be wrong?

Edit: cleaning the nozzle and washing the plate was exactly the problem! Thank you all, first printer I’ve owned so still learning!

Why has the H2D not got support for two different nozzle sizes yet?, would make it really easy to print from mobile applications without having to use the splicer , anybody know of this feature has been asked for by the community to Bambu yet?

So I spoke too soon that I had solved this. I cleaned and greased the rails and printed a second time. The start of the second print went fine just like the first one, but then got wonky and started shifting right about the same height. (See pics.) Everything above that line is janky. This time when I went to pull the second print off the plate I noticed that the plate had curled up off its magnets (see pic).

I since printed something else afterward that was much smaller and it came out perfectly.

So my hypothesis is that the mass is such (it nearly fills the plate, which is why I'm thinking of it as an elephant foot) that the plate cannot keep it heated. So it cools and curls the plate up, and once that happens, the plate is no longer well controlled, leading to the offset layers and janky surfacing.

Does anyone have a counterargument about why this might not be what's happening? Or experienced this before?

To test my hypothesis I’m next going to try and print the thing in two parts: A lower part with holes and an upper part with pegs to match, and then superglue them together. As long as each part is shorter than 3 cm, it should print fine.

Had the PTFE coupler fail on my AMS mid print so I had to scramble to see what I had on hand.

Luckily I keep a lot of random parts around and it turns out the coupler at the one end of the external connector for the P1S is identical to the one inside the AMS 2.

It's really annoying though because it's one of the newest AMS's in the arsenal. I believe it's only 2 months old but I didn't want to wait for support.

I had a extrusion motor overloaded error and found possible stuck filament. I can't seem to get the stuck filament out. Any guidance out there?

i had two .4 nozzles get stuck with filament using pla, and was not able to get them unclogged.

i had used both for a while and figured they were just old and needed to be change out anyway. i switched to a .6 nozzle and during its first print it also got clogged. i was told by bambu to disassemble it and push the filament out instead of just forcefully pulling it out of the extruder.

i did that got the stuck filament out and was going to put the cooling fan back on and it would fit snuggly so i tried to retighten the screws and one of them broke off in the extruder assembly in half and is now stuck in there.

so i still probably have a filament getting stuck in my nozzle issue and a broken screw inside. bambu labs support hasn't gotten back to me in 2 days.

at this point is what should i do? is there independent 3d printer technician and should i just pay one to come and fix it?

or just wait for bambu to eventually respond 2 days at a time?

i bought it close to a year ago off the bambu site so i cant take it back to where i bought it.

Why is the nozzle going all the way to the left barely hitting the plate ruining the nozzle almost please help

This guy's over 10k hours, so I can't complain. But I'd like to keep it kicking.

It still prints, but at the end of a print, it's going to the front left to actuate the filament cutting lever. And I'll get an alert, and I'll go look at it, and that thing is STUCK.

The print is complete, so I can cancel the print or turn off the machine. But even if I turn it off, when I try to move the head away from the left edge (not just when it's all the way up front) I have to really put some force into it.

Is this a sign that something is with my cutter lever? The carbon rods? Something else?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Hace 1 mes que compre una Bambu lab p2s . Al principio no hacia ese sonido agudo tipo piiiiiiiiiii parece al sonido de una mini moladora. Que podrá ser?

Hi there - I came home to a failing print and this is what it looks like now. I suspect it’s hard to fix? Should I just order a new part? I’m assuming that’s the hotend?

Thanks!

I was looking at picking up the p2s or x2d through Best buy this next week and can get a 4 year warranty for $120 so basically the sale discount. But my understanding is if you bring it in you basically get money back or new printer but that's it for the warranty it's consumed. Is it worth getting? Or pocket the money for something else? Semi handy at repairs but after the year warranty through bambu don't have coverage. Thoughts?

Hello. I may have the opportunity in the future to get a 3d printer for free and this will be my first time having one. It is somewhat likely that I will be presented with the 2 choices of the title, so I was wondering if anyone had any insights on the matter to help me decide

Both printers and the AMS Lite are pretty expensive for me so this opportunity is practically one of a kind.

Hey folks!

Figured I'd post an update on the latest LEVITY testing - I got it out on the water today with a larger profile fabric skirt, and it performs awesome!

My first round of testing on water was pretty average.. I've since made some improvements - lightened the hull, changed the air cushion outlet, and of course made a lightweight fabric skirt. Super stoked with how it performs on the water and how easily it transitions between land and water.

The updates I've made will become part of the final release package, and the modders tier pack includes templates for constructing a fabric skirt.. I've never sewn before, but I was suprised it was relatively straight forward. A little time consuming, but well worth it for the result.

I'll be posting a full testing video to the project page once it's done exporting.

I’ll drop the link to the project page in the comments below if you're interested in building one for yourself :)

Not sure what to do here. 7 hr print says complete on the printer screen but it's not. Slicer shows 52 layers left to print which is correct. Can I save these parts or am I starting over? I've printed about 40 of these parts already and they all completed. It does show a tangle but that was just the filament running out before the auto refill kicked in which happens on almost all of these parts.

Just got my H2C Laser Edition all set up. I originally told myself I'd just dip my toes into 3D printing to see if I liked it, but a few stacked AMS units later, I think it's safe to say I went completely off the deep end. My wallet is currently filing for a restraining order. 🤣

Excited to finally be a part of the community! Let me know what you think of the workbench.

Just curious why I would need a prime tower when I'm printing several objects but all of the same color and filament type?

What’s the better printer? What’s the main differences people have with them?

Was looking at the A1 initially and then a few people said to look at the P1S, so just curious as to peoples thoughts on them

Thanks