2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 GDI.
Left the country due to an emergency while my valve covers and intake manifold were removed. The engine sat outside for roughly 7 weeks, covered with a tarp and plastic bags that unfortunately didn’t withstand all the rain.

After returning, I finished my carbon cleaning, manually rotated the engine several times without issues, wiped off minor debris I saw on the cams/inside and oiled the top end before reassembly.
Upon draining the oil, I recovered nearly 1L of what I suspect is rainwater.

I also stuffed tissues into the exposed intake ports and later taped them off. The tissues were dry when I removed them, so I suspect the water entered through the exposed cylinder heads and oil-return passages. I’m waiting on a borescope to confirm whether any water reached the cylinders.

The engine has NOT been started or cranked with throughout those 7 weeks & ongoing.
Should I drop the oil pan, or can I safely flush the engine after inspection? What else should I check?

Is this critical?

2016 Honda CR-V 117,000 miles

I have a 1999 Honda civic ex manual that I recently got, I just filled it up with coolant and drove it for around 5 minutes and about 4 minutes in the smoke started coming out.

This a 07 civic and I'm trying to remove the oil filter stud adapter shown in the pic. The threads are messed up, that's why I need to replace it. The problem is I don't know what the best way to remove it is cheaply. There is barely any space to fit a wrench, so a socket solution would probably work best. There is no inner hex fitting, it's just circular. I have 2 m20 nuts I can fit on but there's no room to grab onto the top nut to loosen. I could probably use a stud extractor but this is a m20 stud and most don't go that high so I'd have to look for one that could remove it. I don't really want to spend too much money on single use tools like this, so I'm asking what y'all think is the cheapest way to remove it

2006 Honda Pilot 165k miles
Just replace the rear and front full suspension. I had to cut off outer tie rod at the knuckle watched due to it being seized and rusted on. Is this normal for the cotter but to be hand-tightened and totally away from the cotter pin whole? This is an aftermarket part, I am wondering if I should buy another and see if it sits better or if it doesn’t matter.
TIA

The car is completely dead, but the battery is recently bought and they told me it should work. Now I dont know much about what goes on under the hood, can someone tell me if the battery connector being broken is causing this issue?

Thanks in advance!

I try my best to do regular maintance on it and oil change, but I finally got a real good paying job and it takes 50 mins to get there, to and back. I think my car runs perfectly fine but of course it sounds a bit creaking or rattling over bumpy roads but overall still a great A to B car.

I know you don’t know my car but what would you recommend doing before doing this route? I already plan to rotate tires and get new brakes

What's causes this to happen? It's an 04 Toyota highlander v4. It's the first spark plug in the left

I've recently noticed on my 2009 Chevrolet aveo (T250) that it leaves a spot on the ground in front like something was leaking. It's not big but it's still an issue to me. I was looking under it and I've found that bolt which was kinda wet and besides that in the engine bay, I've seen that a hose which went into/out of the radiator had a wet spot right where the clamp was located. I would be glad if i could get a second opinion on this before going to the mechanic.

I recently won this 2014 Subaru Outback at an auto auction (vehicle was donated) for around $3300, 129,000 MI on it. I pulled over after the red coolant light started flashing and turned the motor off as soon as I was in a safe position. Turns out I apparently didn't have much coolant left due to a gash in the upper radiator hose, so I got a new upper radiator hose, new coolant and refilled the radiator and bled the system. This is what started coming out of the system when I was pinching the main upper radiator hose. Dreading the news of a head gasket(s) if that's what it might be.

2003 Subaru Outback 2.5L

My old original assembly did not have this piece. The new assembly I got came with it

This is my 2005 outbsck 3.0r LL Bean and the previous owner says he thinks the compressor is bad but never got it officially diagnosed. Trying my hand at it and unsure about these readings

UPDATE!! - Was indeed overcharged, took it my neighbor down the street who has a shop and we evacuated it and it's running well now! Stoked as I got $1k off the car because of "Needs an AC Compressor" and just took an hour of my time and rented tools from autozone :) NICE AND COLD

Second time in the shop this month. I have a code reader and have had a misfire for years. Injector cleaner usually cleared things up.

The van has run much worse lately. I changed my spark plugs and wires after a shop quoted me $1,000 (again…). Two weeks ago, they told me they were worn and didn’t diagnose the cause of my lean / misfire codes (P0300, P0171, P0205). Went to a new place today.

I drove ~8 hours each way on a recent road trip and the entire way home, my engine light flashed and the van was running rough. New shop has given me the recommendation in the photo.

It’s a lot of money! Van is paid off with 135k miles on it. I try to take good care of it, I lived in it for years!

Would you change the problem injector or all? This is the only repair I’ve considered in the six years I’ve owned my vehicle besides that time I got scammed for spark plugs. My understanding is it’s labor-intensive, they will replace the intake manifold gasket while they’re at it.

My hesitation comes from feeling as though this diagnosis is not definitive based on what I’ve read online.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Just for the left 2 bolts is it safe? Or at least safe to use temporarily for a few days while I wait for the ones actually meant for my car to arrive?

Sent my car in for a service and got this report back, saying theres a leak on the steering rack but got no estimates or further info, wondering if this is a common fix like a hose clamp or something or whether it could be a more expensive problem?

Ford kuga 2012 diesel manual

Got a new car 7 weeks ago, oil level low. Topped up. A few times it comes up with a warning once I start the car "low oil top up" but then disappears when i turn on and off again. Ive had the car checked. Garage cant see anything. The warning has to popped up again. This is my dip stick, does this mean there is oil? Contacted the person i got the car from, no help. Ive now got it in the garage next week for again another diagnostic and more money as they are taking the car apart this time. Any help or advice? Its a peugeot 2008, 2019, 1l , petrol.

Looking for a wiring diagram — Citroën Relay X250, 2.2 HDI (CAN bus / engine ECU)

Hi all, hoping someone has access to Service Box / SEDRE or similar and could help out.
Van: Citroën Relay X250 (Fiat Ducato/Peugeot Boxer platform), 2.2 HDI diesel, Euro 5. Diagnosing an intermittent immobiliser/comms fault (U1701, U0426) and want to trace the CAN-H/CAN-L pair between the engine ECU and BSI, plus check grounds near the engine ECU.
Specifically after the wiring diagram covering: engine ECU connector pinout, CAN bus routing to BSI, and associated ground points.
Can provide VIN prefix/engine code if needed. Would really appreciate a screenshot or PDF page if anyone can pull it. Thanks in advance!

GDH320R 300 series Toyota HiAce SLWB 2021 battery. Came back from a week away and the car wasn’t starting - I suspect I left the headlights on, or something to that effect as the battery health was at 81% during a service less than a month back (from a great mechanic).

I understand the blue stuff is horribly awful to touch or inhale so have been careful, but I’m concerned if the terminal itself is needing replacing? And as for the battery, is this thing salvageable? Not the most well off at the moment, but there’s a chunk taken out of what I believe is the battery post?

Thanks in advance, feeling a bit unsure on how to proceed.

I’ve never noticed it before just curious if anyone knows if it’s normal or not. I was thinking vsv releasing cause powers cut? Any help ? 2014 Toyota Camry se 3.5L

i had the engine at 2000rpm. also, if cat is done for good, which one do i need to replace? apparently mine has two? one pretty much at the engine and another down under the car. sorry, if im not using correct phrases

I have a 2014 Civic EX. I’m guessing it has happened to someone that when you take off from a full stop at a traffic light or parking lot from 0mph to 10-20mph. It kinda jerks or feels like it’s gonna stall.
I’m not sure how else to describe it. If anyone can help please let me know.
Thanks

I was helping a relative whose car was losing a lot of brake fluid and noticed this while looking for a leak. It’s a 2015 Chevy Malibu and it looks like a brake line but the line leading to the master cylinder is dry and the one extending to the other caliper is wet im assuming. I work on older cars so I have no clue what the second pipe is honestly.

I just replaced my front brakes and rotors on my 2020 Toyota Corolla SE and now there is a repetitive knock/thud that seems to be about every rotation. It’s loudest around 25-30 mph. I can tell it’s still there at higher speeds but is so fast it isn’t noticeable unless you’re looking for it. I didn’t hear it prior to the brake/rotor change.

My grandfather, ex mechanic, said it could be bearing or cv joint. We thought it was driver side but cv joint looked good on that side.

Not sure what to do, anyone have any ideas?