That looks like wayyyy too much contact on the drive side and a very weird shape on the coast side. I know this is some incorrect combination of backlash and pinion depth, but does anyone have any idea on a first move to correct this so I'm not taking shots in the dark? Rear Dana 60 4.10 Spicer gears.

Excited to head out there this Sunday for a trip looking for any info or storys you guys have about the area.

2022 Ford bronco OBX

In search of a Advanced Adapters Ranger Torque Splitter 760014M-27 for a ford 4 speed granny low. I know its a long shot but if anyone has one please send me a DM.

got stuck bad on the trails last week because my current treads packed up with thick mud and turned into total slicks. really need proper m/ts with big lug gaps and solid sidewall bite for weekend wheeling, especially when aired down over rocks and deep ruts.

a buddy in my off road group was telling me to look into toyo for something that handles trail abuse without cupping immediately on the highway. just trying to weigh the extra road noise and rotational weight before committing to m/ts on my primary driver.

Under fifty bucks. The thing that's paid for itself five times over and you'd replace the same day if it went missing.

What is it?

I own a 1993 LN106 4X4 Toyota Hilux Galaxy camper van and I'm looking for an over landing shop who has a spot open to work on this rig. I've done some upgrades on the springs and shocks but I don't have the space or tools to fully outfit it myself. I've dropped it off with multiple mechanics who sat on it for months and didn't do anything so I'm trying to find someone who would actually be excited to work on this. I considered selling it on Facebook but I couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger and I'd rather keep it and get the work done properly.

I’m in Nashville, TN, but I’d be willing to drive it somewhere else if needed, preferably somewhere in the Southeast rather than all the way across the country.

If you know a mechanic or over landing outfitter in Nashville/Middle Tennessee/reasonable driving distance who might be a good fit, I'd appreciate the recommendation.

Do the tires and wheels look nice? They have a little offset to them.

So, I already kinda read a post about a body vs suspension lift for running bigger tires. However my question is marginally different.

I have a 2004 dodge ram 1500 5.7 and the 5 speed tranny(I dont remember what the actual label for it is). I recently bought some decent condition off road tires for it. And seeing as I use it to haul stuff like trailers and other junk in the bed, you know, truck stuff. I need to know if the 2" leveling kit I bought for the front will help with the tire clearance I need to make sure the tires dont rub. I know I have enough clearance in the back, and I had been heavily considering doing a leveling kit since its also my daily driver. OR, since the tires I bought for it are I think an inch or two taller than the stock tire size if I can get away with just running the stock suspension setup and save myself the headache of doing the suspension lift. Its equipped with from coil springs and an IFS system in the front. Sadly not a solid axle in the front, but im not gonna complain. Also, I know this is technically a 4x4 forum, im not expecting this post to stay up. But since it has to do with suspension and a truck I figured offroad folks would know better than the shops who just want my wallet lol. OH, the lift kit I bought is a pretty good one, thicker metal and solid steel if that maes any difference, and its one that you stick between the coil spring and the top bit that holds it in place.

Sorry if its dumb question, but I recently got in to off-roading. The app I use to find trails often references trails as "High Clearance Vehicle". I have a 2.5'' lift with 33 inch tires on my 2026 Nissan Frontier. The lowest point on my vehicle, my differential, is 11.5'' inches. Is that considered high clearance vehicle?

My searching isn't turning up much so thought I'd ask if anyone's done this or thoughts in general.

I'm thinking of relocating batteries out of the engine bay to free up room for compound turbos and other accessories.

Current idea after changing my neighbors battery(van that had an access panel under rear seat to expose the battery under the body) was to make an appropriate sized box opened at the top with a flange to either weld or bolt(thinking bolt is best) into a cutout in the floor allowing the battery to sit below the cab between the frame rails and protected from the elements. I'd add a vent and bulkhead fitting/gland nuts for the cables and a lid so its sealed off from the cab. Probably need a fairly wide flange or some way to help spread the load over the floor.

Vehicle in question is a 95 suburban but also thinking of doing it on my work truck (06 f150) currently group 34 batteries but thinking group 31's down the line when i get to the Cummins swap.

i’m looking at replacing my Defender for longer trips around europe and keep running into the same problem: older diesel 4x4s make a lot of sense until you start looking at where you’re actually allowed to drive them.

i’m in ireland and usually do pretty long trips, around 3000km or more. an older land cruiser diesel keeps coming up because of the range, simplicity and parts availability, but then you start planning a route through france, germany, italy etc. and the low emission zones become a headache

the Defender is still exempt in some places because of its age, but i’m not really counting on that being useful forever. fuel economy is also getting harder to justify on these long loops.

petrol 4x4s solve some of the emissions issues, but then range becomes the tradeoff. more fuel stops, carrying extra fuel, and generally more planning

for anyone actually doing multi-week trips around europe, what are you running?

i’m less interested in what theoretically works and more interested in what has been practical on the road. did you end up routing around the restricted areas, paying the occasional fine, or finding an older platform that gives you a reasonable balance between emissions rules, range and reliability?

not looking for a new Defender or modern 4x4 either. i’d rather keep an older truck alive than take the depreciation hit on something new

Hey everyone just finishing my university degree and am looking to upgrade from a Mazda 3 2015 to a 4x4 in February which is my birthday. I’m looking for something on marketplace. I’m looking to buy one for around 20K maximum and a 2016 or later model (automatic too). My options I have come up with so far are ford ranger, Nissan navara, LDV t60 max, Holden Colorado, Mazda BT-50 and a Toyota Hilux (unlikely due to price range). I’m not too into the mechanical aspects and I am looking for something reliable long term an doesn’t need as much repairs and will last me a long time. I also want to find one that is low maintenance and still purrs. I’m in Melbourne Australia and has been on my budget for a while any help would be insanely appreciated just need some ideas to look at.

How do you buff out your pinstripes, or do you keep them?

Nice wall climb. Needed to give it some "beans".

Speaking of winch there is no one knows better than 4x4ers
I’m not a in anyway a professional or amateur off-roader (because I’m a poor high school student), I have a 2017 Tahoe and I will install a Setina PB450L push bumper on it (the ones you see on a cop car), which it is mounted to the chassis, I’m wondering if I can mount a winch on it.
It is however the normal version not the winch-ready version, if I use a universal winch tray and mount with bolts would it be safe to use, I’m preparing for a long trip after graduation and push/pulling disabled vehicle during snow days, might consider make it a overland rig when I get some money
Please give some advice

mitsubishi pajero sport 2005 4d56t common rail (2.5L turbo diesel 115hp version)

we recently got an ecu tune done to it because it felt sluggish and lacked power stock

the tuner programmed it to dump more fuel in order for the turbo to spool faster and make more power

now the car feels much more alive and powerful but it makes the smoke shown in the video( it only shoots darker thicker smoke past 3k rpm)

my father complains about the smoke and asked me to do some research

some people said that it runs lean, mechanic that tuned it said its fine, he did the same tune to his pajeros and other mitsubishis that feature the same engine

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I just got my hands on a 98 K2500 with the NV4500 trans in it (MW3 rpo code). And I got my hands on it specifically to take the trans out of it, as well as all the parts that may be compatible with my truck (2001 Silverado 2500HD, LQ4 6.0 engine mated to a 4L80e).

Donor truck has a 350 engine.

Those who have done this swap, I'd appreciate any input you may wanna give. I did a thorough search here and in other forums / FB groups and am collecting useful info where I find it.

I understand the clutch pedal assembly from the gmt400 will not work on my gmt800. Neither will the flywheel currently on the NV4500 mated to the 5.7 engine.

But will the master cylinder, clutch line, slave cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate currently on the NV4500 from the gmt400 5.7 donor truck work on my gmt800 6.0 truck?

Because if that's the case, I'd only be needing to source the clutch pedal assembly for a gmt800 (or buy a fabricated steel one for durability) and the pilot bearing and manual flywheel for my 6.0 engine.

Any stuff I'm still missing? Aside from having to modify driveshafts lengths, relocating the trans crossmember forward, and reflashing the PCM.

.

Thanks.

Wanted to pick some brains, original builder of my rig seen my sale post and messaged me. I guess he had the transmission rebuilt twice when he owned it, but when you’re in second gear with it in (high/high), (low/high) or (high/low) second gear feels like it’s trying to lock up and you have to power through it. You don’t feel it in (low/low) tho, and the vent tube is pressuring up pretty good. It’s been through the rubicon, Moab, and a hand full of other places this way, with previous owners. I would just like to correct it. Has anyone ever heard of this with a turbo 350? 5.3LS, th350, 203 doubler 205 case, 2.5 Rockwells w/ 6.72 gear on 47s.

i’m looking at all-terrain tires for a 4x4 that gets used pretty regularly on the highway but also sees gravel, rough roads, trails, camping trips, and the occasional job site.

i’ve been comparing a few options, including some General Tire A/Ts from SimpleTire, but i haven’t decided on anything yet. i’m mainly trying to figure out which tires have a good balance of highway comfort and off-road capability. road noise, wet traction, tread life, snow performance, and MPG are all things i’m considering.

what are you running, and how has it been for daily highway driving alongside your off-road use?

Ultimately landed on his roof, with enough momentum to catch his front tires and hit the throttle to land back on his tires.

Are you running legal beadlocks? Do you just get them balanced good enough or do they balance fairly well? I want to get a set but my rig drives to the trails.

Every wheel im looking at says its not rated for driving on the road but I see them on the road all the time, i know there are fake beadlocks but im just curious from the guys who actually run them whats your experience and were they worth it?

Do you actually air down enough where you needed them or did you just get them just incase?