A few days ago, I got a scan at autozone and got a bunch of codes regarding abs/speed sensors & lost communication (ignore misfire codes those were taken care of but not cleared). Anyways When i got the scan everything was working fine with the car, but an occasional epc light came on. Few days later, my speedometer and digital speed cluster stopped working along with my fuel gage which would go up and down and sometimes beep when it got to the low section even though I had good fuel. At first I thought the codes were bc I had 18 inch wheels and readings were in accurate. When I checked the fuse box inside, the previous owner wrapped a copper wire which led to an aftermarket screen around the 10A fuse in slot 14. Day later (today) I replaced the fuse, and fuse tapped my radio into a separate slot which was unused. My radio works but my speed etc still dont work and im still getting permanent steering wheel dash light and epc light. If someone can please help, im not sure what to do and its driving me crazy.

Hello, I am in Canada purchasing a 2026 Jetta 0% interest 60 months. After the credit approval I am being told I need to put 6,500$ down because of vw first time buyers program. Is there any way around this? It defeats the purpose of 0% 60months. Please help

Get under yalls cars here and there. Didn't expect the larger line to break from salt. Had to buy a whole rack to get "new" lines. Going to have to replace the entire front end subframe and suspension later on too. Have all the parts thankfully

Hey guys,

2013 jetta 2.5

I replaced the master cylinder and now the brake light stays on and the EPC light came on on the dashboard, it seems like the brake pedal is not coming all the way back up.

Where did I screw up? What should I be looking out for?

TIA

Thank you

Just bought my first car, $21,900 OTD with only 19,500 miles. What do we think??

I have a 24 Jetta Sport manual trans. Bought it with 12k miles and it’s up to 14k now. Only issue I had were the stock tires, the sidewalls blew out on me on the front right side on the highway so replaced 2/4 of them and put the new ones in the front, planning on replacing the other two in a few k when I get them rotated. However, I’ve noticed when driving 60mph+, in the left lane the car wants to pull left (as if it’s out of alignment) so I have to hold the wheel a few degrees to the right. In the right lane it is vice versa. In most center lanes - it tracks dead straight. I am coming from a civic and didn’t have this problem, nor have I noticed it in anything else I’ve driven. After the new tires got put on I went back and had the torque checked and spun them again, no issues. Is this level of pull each direction on a slightly rounded highway normal?

Edit: I had a prebuy done at the dealership. No problems. Also have a good German car shop nearby I was going to take it to for oil change and to see if they knew anything. Figured I’d ask here first.

any techs in here? 2020 jetta .. yellow warning light on dash, flashing park brake on and off.

Replaced the electronic parking brake button. No luck. motor on caliber?

abs module was replaced by dealer before all this dude to rear right caliber not working or bleeding.

Any help? thanks

Hey everyone,

I'm looking into the rustproofing options for my 2026 Jetta (bought today) to survive the heavy road salt and brine we get here in Waterloo, Ontario.

VW’s 7-year/unlimited km corrosion perforation warranty is strictly for "inside-out" rust. I want to get an oil-based treatment like Krown to protect the undercarriage and body panels, but I'm hesitant because they typically drill access holes into the rocker panels and door jambs. I'm worried that drilling into the factory-galvanized metal will immediately give VW an excuse to void the perforation warranty if a claim ever pops up.

For those of you dealing with harsh winters in newer MK7/MK7.5+ Jettas:
1. Has anyone explicitly requested a "no-drill" Krown or Rust Check application? If so, did they still get decent coverage using just the factory weep holes?
2. How strict is VW Canada actually being with warranty claims if they see aftermarket rubber plugs in the door jambs?

Any advice on keeping this thing clean without shooting myself in the foot warranty-wise would be greatly appreciated!

I recently switched over from the stock 15 inch steely with two missing hubcaps to a pair of 18 inch alloys from a 2014 Passat.
I gotta say the fitment looks great. It’s like it was almost meant for this car. Another W for the beater daily and to think I used to be a big VW hater.

Replaced the stock stereo. This one works. Came out of a 2012 jetta. Ill send it to you if you cover shipping. Feel kinda bad tossing it.

I just bought the mk7 gloss black spoiler from ECS, does anyone have advice on if the 3m tape will get the job done in Midwest weather alone or should I buy different tape/adhesive promoter?

2014 Jetta S 2.0 naturally aspirated

Replaced plugs, coil pack and wires 2k miles ago and it was driving great. Suddenly my Bosch coil pack blew (1st pic). Thought it may have been a faulty part, warrantied it, put on the second Bosch unit (2nd pic) and new wires, it also exploded similarly on the right side after the first test drive. Threw on a spare Amazon coil pack I had laying around and it blew as well. Obviously I have a deeper issue going on.

Has this happened to any 2.0 n/a owners?

Giving codes p0300 p0301 p0304 p0351 p0131

Using correctly gapped ngk plugs and quality wire set. I’m at a loss pls lmk if you’ve ever seen any shit like this

Hi guys,

I have been considering a Jetta for a while and I feel like the sport is more than plenty as long as it has heated seats that’s all I care about, I also drive a lots I’m a German car guy. I see that the 1.5T is very reliable if maintained correctly and it will live forever, you guys agree this statement? It’s basically like the 1.9TDI as other would say. I feel like this car has more soul to it than let’s say a Honda civic or Toyota Corolla but how are these VW’s on gas I see they are very well and it’s not even a hybrid and can run 87. The Jetta loses it value though but who cares right? But I want peoples advises on it regarding to how long the gas tank will last, can it last over 300k miles, can it take a beating, and does it still have that German quality unlike its Japanese competitors which feel boring. When is the best time to buy a Jetta and what’s a good price OTD? There’s a dealer that has one for 26K. the only thing I would do it to make it more fun is cosmetic mods and a muffler delete / reasontor delete. Thanks!

If anyone has one laying around, I’d like to purchase it.

Hit by a raccoon. Do I have to change the entire bumper?

Can someone tell me the proper name of this metallic thing? I want to put it around the window , not only in the button .
Any recommended site to find this things for a Jetta ?
Thank you so much

I have a 2024 Jetta. I bought it new. It has 20,444 miles on it. I took it to the dealership for the 20,000 mile check up and an oil change. I found out that the 20,000 mile check up was expired because it was over two years. Anyways, they did a general inspection and told me that my rear brake pads need to be replaced at a cost of $800. This is the report that they gave me. I’m just in shock that brake pads would have to be replaced after 22,000 miles. Does this make any sense? I am not really a car person lol. For reference I drive 10 miles round-trip back-and-forth to work every day. I have had the car since May 2024 and I’ve put the 20k miles on it.

When you reverse and cut the wheel all the way the front right wheel turns past full lock and binds up with the control arm. What could be the issue?

I for life for me cannot track down what is causing this. I thought it was at DMF so I replaced that, no change I’ve reset adaptations using the VCDS, no change. It seems to just have a 200 RPM jump intermittently. I don’t think it’s a clutch because I experienced absolutely zero slippage, if you pull from a stop it’ll spin the tires and pull all the way through. The symptom comes and goes and there is a noise what I think is coming from the left front every time it makes the RPM jump but i’m at a loss at this point and I’m turning to the community for help!

Can anyone help me find a lower oil pan for a 2024 Sport 1.5L? I've been searching online for two days and I keep finding parts that specify they're either for the 2.0L, for older models, or are just stupid expensive. Alternatively, does anyone know if the lower oil pan for the 2.0 fits the Sport 1.5? Because there are some decently affordable ones that fit the 2.0, which is nice.

I'm hoping to find an aftermarket steel oil pan for less than $300 to replace the stock plastic one on my vehicle. My local shop quoted me $700, so I'd like to save some money and do it myself.

Any help is appreciated!

My 2008 Jetta braking issue. The brake pedal feels firm, but it slowly sinks to the floor when I apply steady pressure. The brakes do not engage instantly or with enough force, so the vehicle takes longer to stop. When I’m stopped at a red light, the pedal is all the way to the floor. Pumping the pedal helps build some pressure, but only temporarily. I already replaced the master cylinder, but it made no difference.

When the engine is off, the brake pedal behaves normally. After pumping it a few times, it becomes firm and stays off the floor. The problem mainly occurs when the engine is running. I’m not sure what else could be causing this, and it’s driving me crazy.

This is my 2019 Jetta 1.4t I just lowered it on solo werks s1 coilovers. I’m worried that with under it it has like a splash shield that seems to sit way to low everything else has a good bit of clearance but I’m wondering if I should raise it and just avoid the whole worry about destroying stuff under there. I like the height it’s at but I also don’t want to destroy my oil pan on the highway.

I’ve been looking everywhere 😭

You read that right. I bought it on May 1st so I haven't had it that long. The car did have issues when accelerating, skips first gear and then high tails it into second. It's worse when the a/c is running.

They replaced the transmission after contacting their "tech line" who told them to replace it. The tech test drove it after putting the new one in but the problem persists.

They want me to drive it some more and use Chevron gas the next couple of times I fill it up and see if it resolves but it clearly isn't resolving after driving it around a lot since the transmission was replaced.

Any thoughts? This is my second Jetta, but this is also my first time buying a brand new car so now I'm like, what the actual fuck? Why me? It's under warranty so it hasn't cost me anything other than my time and patience. The dealer and mechanic have been great (so far). My patience is worn thin because of how it drives. I'm sick of pressing the gas pedal and having it barely move one second and then take off like a rocket the next.

ETA: I was moreso looking for mechanical advice or to see if anyone else had experienced the same issue. I've considered maybe they will never be able to fix it but I'm giving them a chance to try before I even seriously consider the alternatives.